Palazzo Memmo Martinengo Mandelli, Venice

Palazzo Memmo Martinengo Mandelli, also known as Ca’ Memmo, is a significant neoclassical palace in the Cannaregio sestiere of Venice, Italy, prominently situated along the Grand Canal between Palazzo Gritti Dandolo and the unfinished facade of the Church of San Marcuola. Constructed in the 18th century and extensively renovated in the 19th century, the palazzo is renowned for its historical association with Andrea Memmo, a Venetian procurator and friend of Giacomo Casanova, as well as its subsequent ownership by the Martinengo and Mandelli families. Today, it serves as a public administrative building, housing offices such as the Court of Auditors, while its architectural features and ongoing restoration efforts highlight its enduring importance.

 

History

The Palazzo Memmo Martinengo Mandelli was built in the 18th century by the Memmo family, one of Venice’s ancient aristocratic dynasties, inscribed in the Golden Book of the Venetian patriciate as one of the 24 “apostolic” families that participated in the election of the first Doge in 697. The Memmo family’s presence in the San Marcuola area dates back to the 10th century, with an earlier building on the site, possibly used by Doge Tribuno Memmo (979–991), who donated the island of San Giorgio Maggiore to Benedictine monks. The current palazzo, however, is an 18th-century construction, reflecting the family’s continued wealth and influence during the Venetian Republic’s later years.

The palazzo’s most notable resident was Andrea Memmo (1729–1793), elected Procurator of San Marco in 1775 and known for his architectural writings and friendship with Giacomo Casanova. Memmo, an admirer of the architectural theorist Carlo Lodoli, authored Elementi d’architettura lodoliana (1786), advocating for scientific solidity and elegant simplicity in design. Despite their wealth in 1761—evidenced by owning six gondolas and employing thirteen servants—the Memmo family faced financial difficulties by the late 18th century, as noted by Pietro Zaguri in 1791: “Il Memmo non ha più barca, è ridotto a miseria” (Memmo no longer has a boat, he is reduced to misery).

The palazzo passed to the Martinengo family through the marriage of Andrea Memmo’s daughter, Contessa Paolina Memmo, to Conte Luigi Martinengo Dalle Palle, with the building serving as part of her dowry valued at 37,000 ducats. The Martinengo family invested an additional 18,000 ducats to enhance the palazzo, raising it by one floor, adding a terrace with Verona stone flooring and Istrian stone balustrades, and framing doors and windows with Carrara marble. In 1830, Conte Venceslao Martinengo commissioned a small observation tower (torricella), incorporating a clock from the former San Michele di Murano college, making the palazzo unique among Venetian buildings for its public clock with dual displays on the Grand Canal.

In 1886, the palazzo was acquired by Cavaliere Luigi Mandelli, marking another transition in ownership. Following the demolition of adjacent buildings on the right, the right wing was modified, and a garden was created, enhancing the property’s amenities. Over the 20th century, the palazzo housed various public offices, including the District Office of Direct Taxes, the Regional Revenue Office, and currently the Court of Auditors, reflecting its adaptation to modern administrative needs.

 

Architecture

Palazzo Memmo Martinengo Mandelli is a striking example of neoclassical architecture, distinguished by its asymmetrical facade and functional design, which contrasts with the Gothic and Renaissance styles prevalent in earlier Venetian palazzi. Its 18th-century construction and 19th-century renovations introduced classical elements suited to its administrative and residential roles. Key architectural features include:

Facade: The Grand Canal facade is characterized by its neoclassical asymmetry, with the most significant openings (larger windows or the portal) shifted to the left at each of its three levels. This asymmetry is structured by horizontal bands and frames of Istrian stone, connecting windowsills, windows, and lintels, creating a clear division between floors. The ground floor features a rusticated (bugnato) water portal for canal access, flanked by rectangular windows, typical of Venetian palazzi facilitating trade and transport. The piano nobile (first floor) has single windows with segmentally arched pediments, a neoclassical hallmark, while the upper floor mirrors this layout with simpler frames. The facade’s clean lines and restrained ornamentation reflect the neoclassical emphasis on order and simplicity, distinguishing it from the ornate Gothic facades of palazzi like Ca’ d’Oro.
Structural Layout: The palazzo spans approximately 3,800 square meters and 18,500 cubic meters, comprising four floors plus an attic. The ground floor (androne) historically served commercial purposes, with storage and offices accessible via the water portal. The piano nobile housed the family’s grand salons, designed for receptions, with large windows maximizing light and canal views. Upper floors included additional living quarters or servant spaces, while the attic likely served storage or secondary functions. A courtyard, tucked within the massive structure, provides light and ventilation, a practical feature in Venice’s dense urban fabric. The 19th-century addition of a fourth floor, terrace, and torricella expanded the building’s capacity and aesthetic appeal.
Materials and Construction: The palazzo is constructed with traditional Venetian materials: brick for the walls, Istrian stone for the facade’s structural and decorative elements, and timber beams for floors and ceilings. The use of lightweight larch or fir from the Dolomites ensured flexibility against Venice’s shifting foundations and resistance to humidity. The rusticated ground floor and Istrian stone bands reflect neoclassical influences from mainland Italy, while the Carrara marble frames and Verona stone terrace added during the Martinengo renovations introduced luxurious touches. The torricella and public clock, installed in 1830, are unique features, blending functionality with civic pride.
Interior: While public access is limited due to its administrative use, historical accounts describe a rich interior under the Martinengo family, housing a collection of over 100 paintings by artists like Titian, Tintoretto, Giorgione, Zuccarelli, Turchi (l’Orbetto), Longhi, Piazzetta, and Flemish and Ferrarese masters. These artworks, likely dispersed or relocated, reflect the family’s cultural patronage. The piano nobile likely featured high ceilings, stucco moldings, and possibly frescoes, with the 19th-century terrace offering panoramic canal views. Modern renovations for public offices have introduced functional elements like electrical and fire-fighting systems, managed with a BIM (Building Information Modeling) approach, but historical features are preserved under the oversight of the Superintendency of the Environmental and Architectural Heritage of Venice and its Lagoon.
Additional Features: The garden, created after the demolition of adjacent buildings, is a rare amenity in Venice, enhancing the palazzo’s residential appeal. The torricella with its public clock, originally from San Michele di Murano, adds a distinctive element to the skyline, visible from Campo San Marcuola and the Grand Canal.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Palazzo Memmo Martinengo Mandelli holds significant cultural and historical value as a reflection of Venice’s architectural evolution, noble family dynamics, and civic adaptation:

Memmo Family Legacy: The palazzo embodies the Memmo family’s ancient lineage, tracing back to Roman tribunes and Altino settlers, as noted in chronicles citing Cicero and Virgil. Their role in Venice’s founding, including participation in the first Doge’s election and Doge Tribuno Memmo’s reign, underscores their enduring influence. Andrea Memmo’s intellectual contributions, particularly his architectural writings inspired by Carlo Lodoli, connect the palazzo to Venice’s Enlightenment-era cultural discourse. His friendship with Casanova adds a layer of social intrigue, situating the palazzo within the city’s vibrant 18th-century milieu.
Martinengo Family Contributions: The Martinengo family’s enhancements, including the fourth floor, terrace, and torricella, reflect their ambition to elevate the palazzo’s splendor. Their military and diplomatic achievements, documented in an archive in Brescia dating to 968, highlight their broader historical significance. Conte Francesco Martinengo, a cavalry general under the House of Savoy, and the pious Contessa Paolina, noted for her charity, add personal dimensions to the palazzo’s narrative. The collection of over 100 paintings underscores their cultural patronage, aligning with Venice’s artistic heritage.
Neoclassical Architecture: The palazzo’s neoclassical facade, with its asymmetrical design and Istrian stone bands, marks a departure from Venice’s Gothic and Renaissance traditions, reflecting 18th-century architectural trends influenced by classical revivalism. Its restrained elegance contrasts with the ornate gotico fiorito of earlier palazzi, offering a case study in Venice’s architectural adaptability. The 19th-century renovations, including luxurious materials like Carrara marble and Verona stone, demonstrate the Martinengo family’s alignment with contemporary tastes.
Civic and Administrative Role: The palazzo’s transition from a noble residence to a public administrative building mirrors the fate of many Venetian palazzi after the Republic’s fall in 1797. Its role in housing the Court of Auditors and other offices reflects Venice’s integration into modern Italy, with the building serving practical functions while preserving its historical character. Ongoing restoration efforts, awarded to Sacaim SpA in 2021–2024, focus on seismic improvement, energy efficiency, and functional recovery, ensuring its longevity as a cultural and administrative asset.
Cannaregio Context: Located in Cannaregio, a sestiere blending noble palazzi with working-class neighborhoods, the palazzo is part of a vibrant urban fabric. Its proximity to the Church of San Marcuola and Campo San Marcuola, a lively public square, integrates it into the community’s daily life. The Grand Canal setting places it within Venice’s most prestigious architectural showcase, where palazzi historically displayed wealth and status.

 

Current Status

Palazzo Memmo Martinengo Mandelli is a public administrative building, currently housing the Court of Auditors and other offices, such as the Regional Revenue Office. It is not open to the public as a tourist attraction, limiting access to employees and officials. The facade, visible from the Grand Canal and Campo San Marcuola, remains a highlight for visitors, with its neoclassical asymmetry and torricella clock best appreciated from a vaporetto or gondola. The garden and courtyard are private, further restricting public engagement.

A major restoration project, undertaken by Sacaim SpA from 2021 to 2024, focuses on seismic improvement, energy efficiency, functional recovery, and preservation of the palazzo’s historical and architectural value. Managed with a BIM approach, the project includes upgrades to electrical, special, and fire-fighting systems, overseen by Seingim and Arexpo S.p.A. The palazzo’s 3,800-square-meter structure, with four floors and an attic, is protected by the Ministry for Cultural and Environmental Heritage, ensuring that renovations respect its historical character under the Superintendency of Venice’s oversight.

The palazzo’s location in Cannaregio, near the San Marcuola vaporetto stop and cultural landmarks like the Jewish Ghetto and Ca’ d’Oro, enhances its appeal for those exploring the sestiere’s quieter, less touristy areas. Its Grand Canal frontage and torricella clock make it a distinctive landmark, contributing to Venice’s architectural narrative.