The Royal Gardens of Venice, also known as Giardini Reali, are a lush, historic green oasis located in the San Marco sestiere, adjacent to Piazza San Marco and overlooking the San Marco Basin. Covering approximately 5,000 square meters (54,000 square feet), these gardens were commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1807 as part of his ambitious reform of the Marciana Area, transforming the site from a medieval granary into a verdant retreat for the Royal Palace housed in the Procuratie Nuove. Restored and reopened to the public in December 2019 by the Venice Gardens Foundation under the leadership of Adele Re Rebaudengo, the gardens are celebrated for their Italianate design, botanical diversity, and architectural elements, including a Neoclassical pavilion, a cast-iron pergola, and a drawbridge connecting to Piazza San Marco. Associated with figures like Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) and now a venue for cultural activities, the Royal Gardens offer a tranquil escape in Venice’s bustling heart, blending history, nature, and contemporary relevance.
Origins and Napoleonic Vision: The Royal Gardens were established as
part of Napoleon’s 1807 decree to reorganize the Marciana Area,
formalizing the Procuratie Nuove as the Royal Palace for Viceroy Eugène
de Beauharnais. The site, previously occupied by the 14th-century Granai
di Terranova (Terra Nova granaries) and the Provveditori alla Sanità
magistracy, was cleared to create a garden overlooking the San Marco
Basin. Architect Giovanni Antonio Antolini proposed a new palace and
garden in 1806, but Beauharnais modified the plan, opting for the
Napoleonic Wing (replacing the Church of San Geminiano) while retaining
the garden’s design. Giuseppe Maria Soli began construction in 1810,
adding a stone balustrade and a wooden bridge, while Lorenzo Santi,
appointed in 1814, finalized the garden’s layout by 1817, introducing a
tree-lined avenue, geometric Italian-style parterres, and English-style
groves with plants from the Royal Park in Stra.
Austrian and
Italian Eras: After Napoleon’s fall, the gardens were managed by the
Austrians, who enhanced them with groves and tree-lined entrances.
Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi), during her stays in Venice
(1857–1862), cherished the gardens, reportedly revoking public access to
enjoy solitary walks and coffee in the greenhouse, earning them a
romantic association. In 1866, under the Kingdom of Italy, the Savoy
monarchs reinstated public access via an iron bridge (1872) and a
drawbridge (rebuilt 1893), connecting the gardens to the palace and
Piazzetta di San Marco. On December 23, 1920, the gardens were ceded by
the Crown to the State Property Office, entrusted to the City of Venice,
and fully opened to the public.
20th-Century Decline: The
gardens’ layout was altered in 1939–1940 under the Fascist regime,
emphasizing geometric Italian-style designs with dwarf box and privet,
aligning with nationalist cultural policies. Lorenzo Santi’s pavilion,
no longer a Cafehaus, served as the Bucintoro Rowing Club headquarters,
an air terminal (1962), and a tourist office. Neglect from the mid-20th
century led to deterioration: the pergola collapsed, the drawbridge
became unusable, a WWII concrete bunker marred the center, and service
buildings decayed.
Restoration and Reopening: In 2014, the State
Property Office and City of Venice entrusted the Venice Gardens
Foundation, led by Adele Re Rebaudengo, with a €6 million restoration
project, supported by Assicurazioni Generali. Completed in 2019, the
restoration, overseen by landscape architect Paolo Pejrone (botanical
design) and architect Alberto Torsello (architectural restoration),
revitalized the gardens’ 19th-century Italianate layout while
introducing experimental botanical choices. The gardens reopened on
December 17, 2019, earning a 2023 European Heritage Award for their
exemplary conservation and public accessibility.
The Royal Gardens are a harmonious blend of Italian garden rigor and
English garden sobriety, restored to their Napoleonic-era splendor with
innovative botanical enhancements. The design balances historical
fidelity with modern ecological considerations, creating a Mediterranean
wonderland in Venice’s urban core.
Architectural Elements
Neoclassical Pavilion (Cafehaus): Designed by Lorenzo Santi (1816–1817),
this pavilion, originally a summer retreat for the court and winter
greenhouse, now serves as a Café Haus hosting cultural events. Restored
to its original function, it features elegant proportions and classical
details, with a dome adding visual prominence. The pavilion’s east wing,
“The Human Garden”, hosts artistic, cultural, and research activities,
while the west wing houses services and plant displays.
Greenhouse:
Also by Santi, the greenhouse was restored to shelter plants and host
exhibitions. Its east wing supports cultural initiatives, while the west
wing is a botanical space, reflecting the gardens’ dual role as a green
and cultural hub.
Cast-Iron Pergola: A 19th-century feature with 23
arches supported by cast-iron columns, the pergola is covered with white
and purple wisteria and Podranea ricasoliana “Contessa Sara”, creating a
shaded walkway blooming from March to October. Custom lampposts by Neri
SpA, designed for the gardens, add elegance.
Drawbridge: Reinstated
during the restoration, the iron drawbridge over a small canal connects
the gardens to Piazza San Marco, lowered on special occasions to evoke
Napoleonic-era access. It symbolizes the gardens’ historical link to the
Royal Palace.
Stone Balustrade and Fencing: Built by Soli in 1810 and
enhanced by Santi, the balustrade encloses the gardens, with a restored
cast-iron fence along the San Marco Basin adding security and aesthetic
continuity.
Botanical Design
The botanical restoration, led by
Paolo Pejrone, a renowned landscape architect who designed gardens for
figures like the Agnelli and Rothschilds, is both conservative
(preserving the 19th-century layout) and experimental (introducing
resilient species). Key features include:
Geometric Parterres:
The gardens retain their Italian-style layout with symmetrical
flowerbeds, inspired by 19th-century designs, using dwarf box and privet
for structure.
Diverse Plantings: The gardens feature 6,000
Agapanthus (blue and white, blooming in July), Farfugium, hydrangeas
(paniculata and arborescens “Annabelle”), Ruscus, irises, myrtles, and
Tetrapanax papyrifer groves. Cercis siliquastrum (Judas Tree) at the
entrance explodes in purple-pink blooms in March, a visitor favorite.
Trees and Shrubs: Notable species include Sophora, Pterocarya
fraxinifolia, bamboo groves, and wind-resistant Laurus, Pittosporum,
Euonymus, and Elaeagnus. Potted pomegranate, fig, loquat, and viburnum
trees line the canal, evoking the Royal Park in Stra.
Climbing
Plants: The pergola’s wisteria and Podranea ricasoliana create a floral
canopy, while roses, tulips, daffodils, and begonias add seasonal color.
Ecological Considerations: Pejrone’s plant selections prioritize
resilience to Venice’s saline environment and climate change, ensuring
sustainable blooming and low maintenance. The Foundation’s gardeners use
a blend of traditional and modern techniques for upkeep.
Layout
and Features
The gardens’ T-shaped plan centers on a tree-lined
avenue overlooking the San Marco Basin, flanked by geometric parterres
and two English-style groves at the ends. A fountain, benches, and
shaded pathways invite relaxation, with views of San Giorgio Maggiore,
the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, and the Campanile di San
Marco. The Coffee House Pavilion and greenhouse anchor the design, while
the pergola and drawbridge add historical charm.
Historical Importance: The Royal Gardens symbolize Napoleon’s urban
vision for Venice, transforming the Marciana Area into a regal precinct.
Their association with Empress Sissi, who frequented them during her
Venetian sojourns, adds romantic allure, while their public opening in
1920 reflects Venice’s democratization of royal spaces. The gardens’
survival through Fascist-era changes and mid-20th-century neglect
underscores their resilience.
Cultural Role: As a National
Heritage Site under Legislative Decree 42/2004, the gardens are
protected for their historical and environmental value. Since 2019, they
have hosted cultural events, including Venice Biennale activities, art
exhibitions, and research programs in the pavilion’s “The Human Garden”
space. The Venice Gardens Foundation, founded in 2014, promotes
botanical and artistic heritage, collaborating with international
researchers and artists to integrate nature and culture.
Awards
and Recognition: The 2023 European Heritage Award from Europa Nostra
lauded the gardens’ restoration for its botanical research, ecological
sensitivity, and public-private partnership model, involving the City of
Venice, State Property Office, and Assicurazioni Generali. The project’s
emphasis on climate-resilient plants and community access was
highlighted as exemplary.
Venetian Context: In a city of stone
and water, with only 112,000 square meters of public green space, the
Royal Gardens are a rare green lung, offering respite from Venice’s
crowded tourist areas. Their proximity to Piazza San Marco, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, enhances their significance, yet their relative
quietness makes them a “secret” retreat, as noted in Veneto Secrets and
Tripadvisor.
Location and Access: The Royal Gardens are at Piazza San Marco, San
Marco 30124, accessible via vaporetto stops San Marco Giardinetti, San
Marco Vallaresso, or San Zaccaria (Lines 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2, Alilaguna
Blue/Yellow). They are a short walk from Piazza San Marco or Rialto
Bridge (600 meters), approximately 1.8 kilometers from Santa Lucia
railway station (20-minute walk or 10-minute vaporetto ride). Admission
is free, with no reservation needed for groups under 10; groups over 10
must book via
**www.venicegardensfoundation.org/accesso-gruppi-e-visite-guidate**.[](https://www.veniceinsiderguide.com/royal-gardens-venice/)[](https://www.venicegardensfoundation.org/en/opening-hours-and-regulations-royal-gardens)
Opening Hours (as of 2025):
16 October–14 April: 9:00 AM–5:00 PM
15 April–15 October: Extended hours (typically 9:00 AM–7:00 PM, check
website)
Closures: January 1, last Saturday/Sunday of Carnival (March
1–2, 2025), Easter Sunday (April 20), Redeemer Saturday (July 19),
December 25, December 31.
Regulations: As a protected site, visitors
must maintain decorum:
Permitted: Dogs on leashes (with waste
bags), non-commercial photography.
Prohibited: Picnicking, alcohol,
sitting on the ground, picking plants, playing ball, using drones,
commercial photography without authorization, littering, or damaging
property. Violators face expulsion and liability for damages. Video
surveillance ensures compliance.
Visitor Experience:
Ambiance:
Described as a “green oasis” by Tripadvisor and Veneto Secrets, the
gardens offer shaded walkways, benches, and views of the San Marco
Basin, ideal for reading, sketching, or relaxing. The Judas Tree’s March
blooms and the wisteria pergola’s spring–summer display are highlights.
Coffee House Pavilion: The Café Haus serves drinks and snacks, but
reviews criticize high prices (e.g., €16.30 for two coffees) and
indifferent service, suggesting better value at nearby cafes like Caffè
Florian.
Cultural Events: The pavilion hosts Biennale exhibitions,
concerts, and workshops, attracting art enthusiasts. The greenhouse’s
botanical displays and “The Human Garden” programs add intellectual
appeal, though events are sporadic (check
**www.venicegardensfoundation.org**).[](https://www.visitvenezia.eu/en/venetianity/walk-venice/the-royal-gardens-reopen-venice-green)
Photography: The gardens’ views, framed by the lagoon, San Giorgio
Maggiore, and St. Mark’s Campanile, are photogenic, especially from the
pergola or near the drawbridge. Non-commercial photography is
encouraged, yielding “unique” shots.
Accessibility: The gardens are
flat, with paved paths suitable for most visitors, but steps at the
entrance may challenge mobility-impaired individuals. Contact
info@venicegardensfoundation.org (+39 041 312 1700) for accessibility
details. Benches are limited, and sitting on the grass is prohibited, as
enforced by patrols.
Nearby Attractions:
Piazza San Marco (50
meters): Home to St. Mark’s Basilica, Doge’s Palace, and Correr Museum.
Teatro La Fenice (500 meters southwest): Venice’s iconic opera house.
San Giorgio Maggiore (500 meters across basin): Accessible by vaporetto,
with Palladian church and Borges Labyrinth.
Rialto Bridge (600 meters
northwest): Historic bridge and market hub.
Gallerie dell’Accademia
(1 km southwest): Premier Venetian art museum.
San Marco’s cafes,
like Caffè Florian, and bacari (e.g., Osteria alle Testiere) offer
dining options, while the Rialto Market provides local flavor.
Visitor Feedback: Tripadvisor awards the gardens a Travelers’ Choice
Award for their top 10% ranking, praising their “tranquil haven” and
“beautifully shaded paths” as a respite from Piazza San Marco’s crowds.
Critics note the small size (“not very big”), limited benches, and the
overpriced café, with some finding it “simple” compared to grander
European gardens. The Judas Tree and wisteria are frequent highlights.
Scholarly and Cultural Notes: Sources like Europa Nostra, Venice
Gardens Foundation, and Veneto Secrets celebrate the gardens’
restoration for its botanical innovation, architectural fidelity, and
public accessibility. Paolo Pejrone’s design is lauded for balancing
19th-century aesthetics with climate-resilient plants, while Alberto
Torsello’s restoration of the pavilion and greenhouse earns
architectural praise. The gardens’ Biennale role and “The Human Garden”
initiatives align with Venice’s contemporary art scene, complementing
venues like Ca’ Giustinian.
Modern Challenges: Venice’s acqua
alta, pollution, and overtourism strain green spaces, but the gardens’
restoration mitigates these through saline-resistant plants and strict
regulations. The Venice Gardens Foundation’s ongoing maintenance, funded
by Assicurazioni Generali, ensures sustainability, though high café
prices reflect tourism’s economic pressures. The gardens’ free entry and
limited size help manage crowds, preserving their tranquility.
Critical Perspective: While the restoration is praised, the gardens’
Napoleonic origins reflect colonial imposition, replacing medieval
granaries with a French-inspired design. The Fascist-era geometric
overhaul (1939–1940) raises questions about cultural manipulation,
though the 2019 restoration prioritizes historical authenticity. The
Sissi narrative, while romantic, may overshadow local Venetian
perspectives, as public access was restricted during her tenure. These
nuances invite reflection on whose history the gardens prioritize.