Palazzo Soranzo Cappello is a historic palace located in the Santa Croce sestiere (district) of Venice, Italy, at Fondamenta Rio Marin, 770, near Palazzo Gradenigo. Positioned along the Rio Marin canal, it is close to key Venetian landmarks like the Venezia Santa Lucia railway station (300 meters northwest), the Ponte degli Scalzi (200 meters northwest), and the churches of San Simeone Profeta and San Simeon Piccolo. The Santa Croce district, one of Venice’s six sestieri, gained prominence in the 1930s with the creation of Piazzale Roma, connecting central Venice to vehicular traffic via the Constitution Bridge.
Early History and Construction
The origins of the site date back
to medieval times, with structures on the property traced to the 12th
century. The first documented ownership was in 1379 by the D'Armer
family, who held a plot of land with existing buildings in the Santa
Croce area. By around 1500, as depicted in Jacopo de' Barbari's famous
bird's-eye view map of Venice, the site featured a larger edifice with
an extensive green space behind it. Significant reconstruction began in
the late 16th century, specifically in 1589, when Alvise Bragadin
obtained permission to rebuild the property. The renovations, carried
out under the Bragadin family, extended into the early 17th century,
transforming the palace into its current form. The design drew
inspiration from architects like Michele Sanmicheli, incorporating a
facade oriented toward the canal and adhering to traditional Venetian
urban planning.
Ownership Transitions
Following the death of
Giacomo Bragadin in 1612, the palace was sold at auction and acquired by
Lorenzo Soranzo, a prominent procurator of St. Mark's. Under Soranzo's
ownership starting around 1625, further enhancements were made,
including facade decorations and garden furnishings. The palace derives
its name from the Soranzo family and later the Cappello family, who took
ownership in 1788 when Antonio Cappello, a Venetian ambassador to the
French court of Louis XVI, inherited it after the death of Giacomo
Soranzo, the last of his line without heirs. Cappello further arranged
the garden during this period. Over the subsequent centuries, the
property passed through various private owners. It served as a barracks
for a time and fell into neglect in the 20th century. In 1989, the
Italian State Public Property repurchased it from its last private
owner, Contessa Carolina di Trento.
Architectural Features
The
palace is structured over four levels: a ground floor, a mezzanine, and
two piano nobili (noble floors). Its facade, facing the Rio Marin, is
characterized by pink plaster walls with white-stone inserts,
stringcourse cornices, and a central serliana—a tripartite window with a
round arch flanked by columns and rectangular openings—on the first
noble floor, complete with a balustrade. The top floor features a gable
with a tympanum, and small chimneys replace what were likely originally
planned as high pinnacles. Internally, a central portego (passageway
hall) connects four main rooms and leads to the courtyard, with restored
painted wooden ceilings in the piano nobile showcasing intricate tempera
work. The courtyard includes niches housing statues of Julius Caesar and
the first eleven Roman emperors, symbolizing the grandeur of the Soranzo
family. Between the courtyard and garden stand two sculptural groups
depicting the Rape of the Sabines (or possibly the Labours of Hercules).
The Garden
The garden, hidden behind a high brick wall and
inaccessible from public view, is one of Venice's most celebrated secret
spaces, laid out by the Soranzo family in the 16th century as a respite
from the urban density. Its current layout is evidenced by a 1709
engraving by Vincenzo Coronelli, showing a central avenue flanked by
statues on pedestals, parterres de broderie (ornamental flower beds),
and an entrance courtyard. Divided into four lawns, a flower garden, and
a fruit orchard separated by a pergola, the garden features an
eight-columned loggia with a triangular gable topped by allegorical
statues at its far end. Vegetation includes an old mulberry tree,
pomegranates, persimmons, ornamental shrubs, and gently weathered
statues, evoking themes of paradise and transience.
Renovations
and Restorations
After acquisition by the Ministry of Cultural
Heritage in 1989, the palace underwent comprehensive restoration to
address decades of neglect. A major project between 2002 and 2003
adapted it for institutional use, preserving the facade and recovering
interior features. In 2019, severe flooding (acqua alta) caused up to 60
cm of water damage, prompting further repairs in 2020 with funding of
about €60,928. The garden was meticulously restored to recreate
Coronelli's historical illustration.
Cultural Significance and
Notable Events
The palace has been linked to several notable events,
including the 1612 auction after Bragadin's death and the 1788
inheritance by Cappello. In the 19th century, it was home to American
novelist Julia Constance Fletcher (pen name George Fleming) and her
mother, whose scandalous background influenced literary circles.
Culturally, it inspired Henry James's 1888 novella The Aspern Papers,
where the palace and garden serve as the setting for intrigue involving
a scholar seeking letters from a fictional poet; key scenes unfold in
the garden, heightening themes of secrecy and deception. Similarly,
Gabriele D'Annunzio's 1900 novel Il Fuoco features the garden as a
meeting place for protagonists, underscoring its romantic and evocative
atmosphere. These literary connections have made it a site for tourism
and preservation, symbolizing Venice's hidden paradises.
Current
Use
Today, Palazzo Soranzo Cappello houses the headquarters of the
Superintendence of Archaeology, Fine Arts, and Landscape for the
provinces of Belluno, Padua, and Treviso (reorganized in 2023 to
separate the Venice metropolitan area). Public access to the palace
interior is limited, but the garden opens seasonally in spring and
autumn by appointment, with details announced via the Superintendence's
website and social media. Contact for visits is available at +39 041
2574011.
Palazzo Soranzo Cappello exemplifies Venetian Renaissance
architecture, with a style reminiscent of Michele Sanmicheli, though the
architect remains unknown. The palace’s design adheres to traditional
Venetian typology, featuring a monumental façade and a layout centered
around a salone passante (central hall) that organizes lateral rooms.
Its architectural highlights include:
Façade: Facing the Rio
Marin, the façade spans four levels: a ground floor, a mezzanine, and
two noble floors, with a mezzanine attic featuring a skylight, a feature
seen in other 16th-century Venetian palaces. The façade is clad in
distinctive pink plaster with white Istrian stone accents, creating a
striking contrast. The first noble floor is adorned with an elegant
serliana (a tripartite window with an arched central section flanked by
rectangular openings), complete with white-stone inserts and a
balustrade. Both noble floors are marked by stringcourse cornices,
adding horizontal emphasis to the pink plaster wall. The second noble
floor includes a polifora (multi-light window) with a balcony under its
three central openings, enhancing the façade’s grandeur.
Interior:
The interior preserves valuable pictorial and decorative elements,
including wooden ceiling beams with elaborate cornices, some featuring
tempera and gold-leaf decorations. The salone passante on the first
noble floor is decorated with refined phytomorphic (plant-inspired)
motifs and trompe l’œil architectural and sculptural elements,
showcasing Venetian artistry. The ground-floor androne (entrance hall)
also features Istrian stone elements, contributing to the palace’s
monumental character.
Adjacent Structure: The complex includes a
smaller adjacent palazzetto, likely added later to meet spatial needs,
separated from the neighboring Palazzo Gradenigo by a garden wall. This
addition reflects the palace’s evolution over time.
The architectural
sobriety, combined with refined detailing, aligns with Sanmicheli’s
influence, emphasizing proportion and elegance over ostentatious
decoration. The palace’s design reflects Venice’s mercantile and
aristocratic heritage, balancing functionality with aesthetic
sophistication.
The garden of Palazzo Soranzo Cappello is one of Venice’s most
celebrated “secret” gardens, hidden behind the palace’s façade and
renowned for its historical and artistic significance. It is considered
a standalone attraction, often listed separately on platforms like
TripAdvisor. Key features include:
Layout and History: The
garden’s current layout is documented in a 1709 engraving by Vincenzo
Coronelli, suggesting its establishment in the early 17th century. It
was further embellished in the early 1760s, possibly to celebrate the
1658 wedding of Lorenzo Soranzo and Elisabetta Badoer. The garden is
divided into a courtyard and a larger green space, separated by a low
parapet with an ironwork grille. A straight path flanked by statues
leads to a small temple, likely from the mid-18th century, adding a
classical touch.
Sculptures: The courtyard features statues of the
Twelve Caesars (based on Suetonius’ accounts), crafted by Clement Molli,
depicting Julius Caesar and the first eleven Roman emperors as
condottieri (military leaders). Two sculptural groups, possibly
representing the Rape of the Sabine Women or the Labors of Hercules,
stand between the courtyard and garden, adding mythological depth. These
sculptures, commissioned by the Soranzo family, enhance the garden’s
grandeur.
Botanical and Cultural Appeal: Described as a “suggestive
and picturesque” historic garden, it is a haven for botany enthusiasts,
though some reviews note it could be better maintained. Its lush
greenery, framed by sculptures, offers a rare oasis in Venice’s dense
urban landscape. The garden’s literary fame stems from its role as a
setting in Gabriele d’Annunzio’s Il Fuoco (where Stelio and Foscarina
meet) and Henry James’s The Aspern Papers (where the search for Jeffrey
Aspern’s papers unfolds), cementing its cultural significance.
Access: The garden is open to the public Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to
1:00 p.m., with advance booking required via phone (+39 041 2574011 or
041 2528816) or email (sabap-ve-met@beniculturali.it). Extraordinary
openings, often free with guided tours, occur between spring and early
autumn, with specific 2025 dates announced on the Superintendence’s
website (e.g., April 30, May 14, and May 28).
The garden’s seclusion,
accessible only through the palace’s portego, enhances its mystique,
making it a hidden gem for visitors seeking Venice’s lesser-known
treasures.
Palazzo Soranzo Cappello’s cultural importance extends beyond its
architecture and garden. Its literary connections elevate its status:
Gabriele d’Annunzio’s Il Fuoco: The garden serves as the romantic
backdrop for encounters between Stelio and Foscarina, infusing it with
poetic allure.
Henry James’s The Aspern Papers: The palace and garden
are central to the narrative, where the protagonist’s quest for Jeffrey
Aspern’s papers unfolds, highlighting its atmospheric charm.
These
works have immortalized the palace, particularly its garden, as a symbol
of Venice’s enigmatic beauty, attracting literary enthusiasts and
cultural tourists.
Today, the palace functions as an administrative hub for the
Superintendence of Archaeology, Fine Arts, and Landscape, overseeing
cultural heritage in Venice and surrounding provinces. This governmental
role limits public access to the palace itself, which is not always open
to visitors. The garden, however, is more accessible, with structured
visiting hours and special openings. Visitors are advised to contact the
Superintendence in advance to confirm access details, as spontaneous
visits may not be accommodated.
Address: S. Croce 770, Fondamenta
Rio Marin, 30135 Venice, Italy.
Contact: +39 041 2574011 or
sabap-ve-met@beniculturali.it.
Garden Hours: Monday–Friday, 8:30
a.m.–1:00 p.m. (booking required); special openings announced online.
Nearby Attractions: Include the Museum of Natural History at Fondaco dei
Turchi, Ca’ Pesaro’s contemporary art exhibitions, and the vibrant
Piazzale Roma area.
TripAdvisor reviews praise the palace’s
historical charm and the garden’s botanical appeal, though some note
maintenance issues. Its proximity to the railway station makes it
accessible for travelers arriving in Venice.