Benevento (Beneviénte in Benevento dialect) is an Italian town of
58 418 inhabitants, capital of the province of the same name in
Campania.
Initially called Maloenton by the native
Osco-Samnite populations, and then renamed by the ancient Romans
first Maleventum and finally Beneventum, the city boasts a
conspicuous historical-artistic and archaeological heritage, the
result of the various dominations and affiliations that followed one
another over the course of its history. Since June 2011 the church
of Santa Sofia, built in 760 by the Lombard duke Arechi II, became
part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site within the Lombard serial
site in Italy: the places of power. The symbol of the city is the
Arch of Trajan which is one of the best preserved Roman triumphal
arches with reliefs. It is the seat of the archdiocese of Benevento.
Arch of Trajan
One of Benevento's most iconic landmarks, the Arch
of Trajan (Arco di Traiano) is a triumphal arch erected between 114 and
117 AD by the Roman Senate to honor Emperor Trajan's military victories
and civic achievements, particularly the construction of the Via
Traiana—a shortcut from Benevento to Brindisi that boosted trade and
connectivity. Designed by the renowned architect Apollodorus of
Damascus, this single-arched structure stands 15.6 meters tall and 8.6
meters wide, crafted from local limestone with a marble veneer that
gleams under the Italian sun. Its surfaces are adorned with intricate
bas-reliefs depicting scenes from Trajan's life: one side focuses on his
benevolent rule, showing him distributing aid to citizens and
interacting with gods like Jupiter, while the other highlights military
triumphs, including campaigns against the Dacians. The attic features
inscriptions praising Trajan, and the overall symmetry and detail
reflect the peak of Roman imperial art, influencing later arches like
those in Rome. During the Middle Ages, it was incorporated into the city
walls as the "Porta Aurea" (Golden Gate) for defense, and some of its
reliefs were looted and now reside in the British Museum. Visitors can
walk through it freely along Corso Garibaldi, appreciating its role as a
gateway to the historic center—best viewed at sunset when the marble
catches a golden hue. It's remarkably intact, surviving earthquakes and
wars, symbolizing Benevento's enduring Roman legacy.
Church of
Santa Sofia
A masterpiece of Lombard architecture, the Church of
Santa Sofia (Chiesa di Santa Sofia) dates to around 760 AD, commissioned
by Duke Arechis II during the Lombard Kingdom's height in southern
Italy. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, part of the "Longobards in
Italy: Places of Power" serial property, features a unique circular plan
with a central hexagonal core supported by ancient columns repurposed
from a Roman temple dedicated to Isis, encircled by a decagonal ring of
white limestone pillars. The design draws from Byzantine influences,
with a domed roof and three apses; originally, its interior was covered
in vibrant frescoes depicting Christ's life, though only fragments
remain after centuries of earthquakes and restorations. A major 1688
tremor led to Baroque modifications under Cardinal Orsini (future Pope
Benedict XIII), but a 1951 restoration stripped these away to reveal the
original Lombard forms. The adjacent 12th-century cloister, built from
recycled ancient fragments, offers a peaceful courtyard with geometric
arches and is now integrated with the Sannio Museum. Culturally, it
represents the Lombards' fusion of Roman, Byzantine, and Germanic
styles, serving as a testament to their power before Charlemagne's
conquest. Entry is free, though donations are appreciated; inside, the
serene atmosphere and acoustic properties make it ideal for quiet
reflection or occasional concerts. Its compact size belies its
historical weight, often surprising visitors with its innovative layout
compared to traditional basilicas.
Roman Theatre
Benevento's
Roman Theatre (Teatro Romano), inaugurated under Emperor Hadrian around
126 AD and expanded by Caracalla in the early 3rd century, exemplifies
the city's prosperity as a Roman colony. With a diameter of 90 meters
and capacity for 10,000 spectators, it was built into a hillside facing
Mount Taburno, using local stone clad in colorful marbles (much of which
is now lost). The structure includes a semi-circular cavea (seating
area) with tiered rows, a stage backed by ornate scenery, and
Hellenistic-inspired elements like columns and niches that housed
statues. Unlike many Roman theatres, it blended Greek theatrical
traditions with Roman engineering, hosting gladiatorial games, plays,
and public events. Buried for centuries and partially overbuilt by the
18th-century Church of Santa Maria della Verità, it was excavated in the
1920s and fully restored by 1957. Today, it functions as an open-air
venue for summer festivals, operas, and concerts, allowing visitors to
climb the steps for panoramic views or explore the underground passages.
Its location near the cathedral makes it easy to combine with other
sites; tickets are inexpensive (around €4), and guided tours highlight
its acoustics and historical anecdotes, such as its use during the
Lombard era as a quarry.
Benevento Cathedral
The Cathedral of
Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo di Benevento), originally founded in the 9th
century on a pagan temple site, was rebuilt in Romanesque style around
1114 after Lombard influences waned. Its facade, inspired by Pisan
Gothic, features blind arcades, a rose window, and a massive square bell
tower from 1279 that survived World War II bombings. The highlight is
the 12th-century bronze doors (Janua Major), composed of 72 panels with
biblical reliefs, reassembled post-war. Inside, the basilica layout
includes double aisles with recycled ancient columns, a 14th-century
marble statue of Saint Bartholomew (the city's patron, whose relics are
housed here), and a crypt with frescoes. Heavily damaged in 1943 Allied
raids, it was reconstructed in a modernist style by 1965, blending
ancient elements with concrete minimalism—controversial yet intriguing.
Beneath lies an archaeological area revealing 7,000 years of history,
from prehistoric to Roman layers. As a spiritual hub, it hosts festivals
honoring Saint Bartholomew on August 24, with processions and fireworks.
Free to enter, it's a poignant reminder of Benevento's resilience,
though the mix of eras can feel eclectic to purists.
Rocca dei
Rettori
Perched on Benevento's highest hill, the Rocca dei Rettori
(Castle of the Rectors) overlooks the confluence of the Sabato and
Calore rivers, embodying the city's strategic defenses from ancient
times. The core "Torrione" tower dates to the Lombard era (871 AD),
built on Roman aqueduct ruins, while the adjacent palace was added in
the 14th century during papal rule, serving as residence for papal
governors (rettori) until 1860. This fortress-like structure
incorporates Samnite walls, Roman thermal baths in its gardens, and
medieval battlements, reflecting layers of history from defensive
outpost to administrative center. Inside, exhibits showcase medieval
artifacts, and the tower offers sweeping vistas of the Apennines—ideal
for photography. Now housing provincial offices and cultural events,
it's free to visit (gardens always open), with the interior accessible
during exhibitions. Its imposing silhouette against the skyline evokes
Benevento's turbulent past, from Lombard invasions to papal intrigues.
Museo del Sannio
Housed in the cloisters of Santa Sofia Church,
the Museo del Sannio is a treasure trove of regional history, spanning
from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages. Established in 1873, it
features artifacts from the Samnite, Roman, and Lombard periods,
including terracotta figures from the 5th century BC, Egyptian obelisks
tied to the Isis cult (Benevento had a significant Egyptian influence
via Roman trade), and medieval manuscripts. Highlights include relics
from the Temple of Isis, such as statues and inscriptions, underscoring
the city's role as a cultural melting pot. The museum's setting in the
atmospheric cloister enhances the experience, with sections dedicated to
archaeology, medieval art, and even modern history. Tickets cost about
€6, often bundled with Santa Sofia entry; it's particularly rewarding
for those interested in the Sannio region's indigenous peoples, offering
context to the surrounding ruins.
Historic Center and Unique
Cultural Elements
The Centro Storico di Benevento is a labyrinth of
narrow streets, piazzas, and ancient gateways like Port'Arsa and Ponte
Leproso (a Roman bridge over the Sabato River), where Roman, medieval,
and Baroque elements coexist. Piazza Matteotti hosts a Napoleonic
obelisk, while the area's vibe pulses with local cafes serving Strega
liqueur—a herbal spirit infused with saffron and spices, named after the
city's witch legends. Benevento's folklore as the "City of Witches"
stems from Lombard pagan rituals around a mythical walnut tree, later
demonized by the Church, inspiring museums like the Museo delle Streghe
with exhibits on witch hunts and esoteric symbols. Wandering here
reveals hidden gems like the Arco del Sacramento in the former Roman
Forum, now amid modern life. Best explored in the evening when lit up,
it's a living museum of Italy's layered past.
Ancient Origins and Pre-Roman Era
Human presence in the Benevento
area dates back to the Neolithic period, with archaeological evidence of
early settlements and an Orientalizing necropolis from the late 8th to
early 7th century BC, featuring grave goods such as bronze pateras and
fibulae. According to legend, the city was founded by the Achaean hero
Diomedes after the fall of Troy, who left the tusks of the Calydonian
Boar—slain by his uncle Meleager—as a token, which remains in the city's
coat of arms. The original Oscan name was likely Malies or Malocis,
evolving to Maloenton, possibly meaning a place of flocks or linked to
pastoral abundance, associated with the Samnites, an Italic tribe known
for their warrior culture. By the 4th century BC, during the Samnite
Wars, it developed as a proto-urban settlement for defense among tribes
like the Hirpini, Pentri, and Caudini, with a rural agro-pastoral
economy and necropolises containing tumuli and warrior tombs. The name
Maleventum, meaning "bad wind" or "ill-omened place," may reflect
historical hardships like wars or natural disasters.
Roman Era
Benevento was conquered by Rome during the Third Samnite War around 275
BC, renamed Beneventum (interpreted as "good omen") after a victory over
Pyrrhus of Epirus in 272 BC, and established as a Latin colony in 268
BC. It played a key role in the Second Punic War, with Roman victories
over Carthaginian forces led by Hanno in 214 BC (by Tiberius Sempronius
Gracchus) and 212 BC (by Quintus Fulvius Flaccus), and largely avoided
damage during the Social War (91–88 BC). Positioned at the junction of
the Via Appia and Via Minucia (later Via Appia Traiana), it prospered as
a trade hub. Under the Empire, refounded as Colonia Iulia Concordia
Felix Beneventum in 42 BC by Lucius Munatius Plancus, it expanded with
territories from Caudium and gained titles under Septimius Severus.
Administratively part of Campania under Augustus and Hadrian, it
featured grand structures like temples to Jupiter and Isis (built under
Domitian in 88 AD), a forum with cryptoporticus, basilica, baths, and
the Roman Theatre (inaugurated in 126 AD under Hadrian, seating up to
15,000). The Arch of Trajan, erected between 114–117 AD to commemorate
the emperor's campaigns, stands as a testament to its imperial
importance.
Wealth from trade, coin minting, and agriculture made it
one of southern Italy's richest cities by the 4th century, second only
to Capua in population, hosting emperors like Nero, Trajan, and
Septimius Severus, as well as literary figures. Christianity emerged
early, with legends of Saint Photinus in 40 AD and documented martyrs
like Saint Januarius in 305 AD, leading to freedom of worship after the
Edict of Milan in 313 AD.
Early Medieval Period: Fall of Rome and
Lombard Duchy
Following a devastating earthquake in 369 AD and the
Western Roman Empire's collapse, Benevento faced invasions: sacked by
Visigoths in 410, Vandals in 455, Goths in 490, briefly held by
Byzantines in 536–537 and 545 under Totila, amid ruins and hardships. In
571 AD, the Lombards under Zotto (570–590) established the Duchy of
Benevento, reorganizing administration and expanding territories. This
marked an ascendant phase (570–774), with dukes like Arechis I (591–641)
conquering Capua, Salerno, and parts of Basilicata and Calabria,
converting to Catholicism under Pope Gregory I's influence. Key rulers
included Grimoald I (647–671), who briefly seized the Lombard throne in
Pavia, and Romuald I (662–687), who repelled a Byzantine siege in 663.
Saint Barbatus (bishop 663–682) played a pivotal role in
Christianization, ending pagan rituals like viper cults and felling a
sacred walnut tree, which fueled legends of witches' gatherings—a
folklore that persists, portraying Benevento as the "City of Witches"
from Samnite times through medieval superstitions.
The culminating
phase (774–849) saw Arechis II (758–787) elevate the duchy to a
principality after Charlemagne's conquest of Pavia in 774, crowning
himself prince, building the UNESCO-listed Church of Santa Sofia (a
masterpiece of Lombard architecture), and expanding coastally.
Successors like Grimoald III (787–806) defeated Byzantines, while Sico I
(817–832) and Sicard (832–839) seized relics and faced civil wars. In
849, Emperor Louis II divided the duchy amid fratricidal strife, with
Benevento retaining inland areas.
The descending phase (849–1077)
involved Saracen raids, Byzantine incursions, and alliances; Adelchis
(854–878) imprisoned Louis II in 871, while Pandulf Ironhead (961–981)
unified territories, allied with Otto I, and elevated the diocese to a
metropolitan see in 969. Norman threats culminated in the duchy's end
under Landulf VI in 1077. Culturally, this era saw church constructions
like San Pietro and Santa Maria monasteries, and the boar symbol
persisted.
High Medieval to Early Modern: Papal Control and
Conflicts
From 1077, Benevento became a papal enclave, governed by
rectors like Stefano Sculdascio, with consuls holding veto powers.
Norman sieges (1112–1114) led to peace treaties; under Innocent III,
1202 statutes established a papal theocracy blending Lombard and Roman
law. Frederick II sacked it in 1241, and the Battle of Benevento in 1266
saw Manfred's defeat and death by Charles of Anjou, followed by papal
reconstruction privileges under Clement IV. Statutes evolved, with
Eugene IV (1431–1440) creating a council of twelve, expanded to
forty-eight under Sixtus V in 1588. Factional revolts, famines (like
1316), and councils (e.g., 1059 under Nicholas II addressing simony)
marked the period, with frequent papal visits. Under Spanish and Bourbon
rule as part of the Kingdom of Naples, it adapted while preserving
heritage.
Modern Era: From Napoleon to the Present Day
The
Napoleonic era brought seizure by Ferdinand I in 1798, French
plundering, a 1799 revolt, and brief independence as a principality
under Talleyrand in 1806, before returning to papal control in 1815 via
the Congress of Vienna. During the Risorgimento, a Carbonari uprising in
1820 preceded peaceful incorporation into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860
by Salvatore Rampone, forming the Province of Benevento. The 20th
century included severe World War II bombing in 1943 (destroying 38% of
housing and causing 2,000 deaths), earning a Gold Medal for Civil Valor
in 1967, and floods in 1949 and 2015. Post-war reconstruction shifted
the economy from agriculture to the public sector, with the
establishment of a university and Christian Democratic political
dominance. Today, Benevento balances its ancient heritage—evident in
sites like the Museo del Sannio showcasing prehistoric to medieval
artifacts—with modern life, including festivals blending religious and
folk traditions tied to its witch legends. The current mayor is Clemente
Mastella, elected in 2016. The city's enduring symbols and landmarks
continue to attract visitors, preserving its status as a hidden gem in
Campania.
Benevento is a historic city located in the Campania region of southern Italy, serving as the capital of the Province of Benevento. Positioned approximately 50 kilometers northeast of Naples, it lies in the inland area of Campania, about 60 kilometers from the Tyrrhenian coast. The city is situated at an elevation of 130-135 meters (427-443 feet) above sea level on a hill at the confluence of two major rivers, the Calore Irpino (also called the Calore Beneventano) and the Sabato. This strategic location has historically made it a key junction along ancient routes like the Via Appia and Via Traiana, contributing to its role as a crossroads between the Apennine Mountains and surrounding plains. The broader Province of Benevento encompasses 2,071 square kilometers (about 800 square miles), making it a relatively compact but diverse area in terms of terrain.
The city's topography is characterized by its hilly setting, perched
on a ridge that provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape,
including the prominent Taburno Camposauro massif to the southwest. This
hilltop position not only offers natural defenses—evident in its ancient
fortifications—but also influences local microclimates and urban layout,
with the historic center clustered around elevated points. The terrain
descends toward the river valleys, creating a mix of undulating hills
and fertile lowlands ideal for agriculture, particularly vineyards and
olive groves that dot the province.
In the wider province, the
elevation varies dramatically from a low of 44 meters above sea level in
the comune of Limatola in the west to a high of 1,822 meters at Monte
Mutria, part of the Matese mountain range in the north. The Matese
mountains form a natural barrier separating Benevento from the
neighboring Molise region, featuring rugged peaks, karst formations, and
forested slopes. To the west and south, the province transitions into
the southern Apennines, with rolling hills giving way to steeper
inclines. Eastward, the landscape opens into plains extending toward
Puglia, creating a mosaic of mountains, hills, and valleys that support
diverse ecosystems, from Mediterranean scrub to alpine meadows at higher
altitudes. This varied relief contributes to the province's scenic
beauty, with areas like the Taburno Camposauro offering hiking trails
and vistas over the Calore Valley.
Benevento's geography is profoundly shaped by its rivers, which have
historically defined its boundaries and economy. The Calore Irpino, a
tributary of the Volturno River, flows through the city from the east,
while the Sabato River approaches from the south; their confluence
occurs right in the urban area, creating a natural moat-like feature.
These waterways have been integral to the region's development,
supporting irrigation for agriculture and historically powering mills.
However, they also pose flood risks, as evidenced by significant
inundations like the 1949 flood along the Calore Irpino. Other notable
hydrographic elements include the Tammaro River to the north, which
marks part of the historical northern boundary, and smaller tributaries
that drain the Apennine slopes. The Ponte Leproso, an ancient Roman
bridge over the Sabato, exemplifies how these rivers integrate with
human-made structures, blending natural and cultural geography.
In
the province, the river systems feed into broader networks, with the
Calore and Sabato contributing to the Volturno basin. The area's
hydrography supports wetlands and riparian zones, enhancing
biodiversity, though modern management includes dams and channels to
mitigate erosion and flooding in the valleys.
Benevento experiences a transitional Mediterranean climate, blending
coastal mildness with inland continental influences due to its elevation
and proximity to the Apennines. The annual average temperature is around
15.1°C, with mild winters and hot summers. January, the coldest month,
sees average highs of 11.3°C and lows of 1.6°C, while August, the
hottest, averages highs of 32.6°C and lows of 16.5°C. Winters (December
to February) are variable, with occasional cold snaps bringing
temperatures below freezing (record low of -8.5°C in February 2008) and
rare snowfall—more common here than on the Campania coast, with
potential accumulations of 30-40 cm or even up to 1 meter in extreme
events like December 1973. Fog is frequent in valleys during colder
months.
Summers (June to August) are sunny and dry, with highs often
reaching 36-37°C and peaks up to 39-40°C, tempered by occasional
thunderstorms rolling in from the mountains. Precipitation totals about
820 mm annually, distributed unevenly: the wettest period is autumn
(November averages 110 mm), while summer months like July and August see
only 40 mm each. Rainy days peak in winter, but overall, the climate is
intermediate between wetter northern Italy and drier southern regions.
Sunshine is abundant, especially in summer, with minimal cloud cover.
The best times for visiting are spring (mid-April to mid-June) and
autumn (September to early October), when temperatures are pleasant
(around 20-25°C) and rainfall is moderate. The Apennines to the west and
south act as a barrier, shielding the area from some western winds while
channeling cooler air from the north.
The Province of Benevento borders several regions, reflecting its transitional position in southern Italy. To the north lies the Province of Campobasso in Molise, separated by the Matese mountains; to the east, the Province of Foggia in Apulia, with flatter plains; to the south, the Province of Avellino and the Metropolitan City of Naples, featuring more Apennine foothills; and to the west, the Province of Caserta, with valleys leading toward the coast. Historically, the territory extended to areas like Caudium (modern Montesarchio) in the west and Aequum Tuticum (near Ariano Irpino) in the northeast, bordering ancient sites such as Aeclanum and Abellinum. This positioning fosters a blend of cultural influences, from Samnite hill tribes to Roman plains settlements, and supports varied land uses, including protected natural parks in the mountains and agricultural zones in the valleys.
Beyond its rivers and mountains, Benevento boasts features like the Taburno Camposauro massif, visible from city viewpoints such as Mount Pentime, which offers sweeping panoramas of the province. The area's karst geology in the higher elevations leads to caves and sinkholes, adding to its exploratory appeal. Ancient landmarks, such as the Arch of Trajan and Roman theater, are embedded in the hilly urban fabric, while the province's landscapes evoke a sense of mysticism, with legends tied to its witches (a folklore element linked to walnut trees in the valleys) and archaeological sites scattered across the terrain. Overall, Benevento's geography combines natural beauty with historical depth, making it a compelling example of Italy's diverse inland terrains.
The lower area of Benevento is subject to floods. The
most recent occurred on October 15, 2015.
Flood of Benevento
in 1949
On 2 October the rains swelled the Benevento catchment
area (in particular the Calore river) beyond its limit, which still
bore signs of the Second World War. new river flow caused by the
narrowing of the bed. Thus it was that the same bridge became a real
dam, pouring the flow of the river through the streets of the city.
Even then the areas of the Pantano and of the Ponticelli district
were the most affected in addition to the railway district. About
twenty deaths and extensive damage to buildings and infrastructure
weighed on the resurgent city economy, which was once again
irremediably compromised.
Flood of Benevento of 15 October
2015
The main causes are the abundant rains that have fallen on
the Samnite soil, which has reached saturation, i.e. the inability
to absorb more water, the watercourse that has created greater
disruption to the populations of Benevento was still the Calore
river which has reached levels full unheard of thanks also to the
poor state of its riverbed bringing to its knees the entire Sannio,
Benevento and neighboring municipalities. The damages estimated at
around € 121 million were manifold, starting from the agricultural
sector, literally devastated by this event, then serious damage was
suffered by the farms and the industrial sector. There were two
victims. One, caused by the flood of the Tammaro (a tributary of the
Calore river), was a seventy-year-old lady from Pago Veiano (BN),
overwhelmed by the waters. The second victim caused by the flood of
Calore, a man from Varoni di Montesarchio, who was overwhelmed by
trying to free the basement from the mud. The areas most affected by
the flood were c.da Pantano, q.re Ponticelli, industrial area Ponte
Valentino.