Novinskiy bulvar 25
Tel. (499) 255 6399
Subway: Smolenskaya, Barrikadnaya
Open: 10am- 7pm Wed, Thu
10am- 3pm Sun
The Chaliapin House Museum, also known as the Museum-Estate of F.I. Chaliapin, is situated at 25 Novinsky Boulevard in central Moscow. The building itself is a rare surviving example of late 18th-century wooden architecture in the city. Constructed in the 1790s by the merchant K. Bazhenova, the mansion was initially a modest urban estate typical of pre-imperial Moscow's merchant class. It was soon sold to Stepan Zhikharev, a provincial prosecutor, writer, and close friend of the poet Alexander Pushkin, who owned it during the early 19th century. Remarkably, the structure endured the catastrophic Fire of 1812, which ravaged much of Moscow during Napoleon's invasion, making it one of the few wooden buildings from that era still standing today. Over the following decades, the estate changed hands multiple times, reflecting the evolving social landscape of Moscow, but it retained its classical facade and layout, blending Russian wooden construction with emerging European influences.
Chaliapin's Acquisition and Residency (1910–1922)
The mansion
entered its most famous chapter in 1910 when it was acquired by Feodor
Ivanovich Chaliapin, the legendary Russian opera bass, then at the
pinnacle of his international career at age 37. Chaliapin, born into
poverty in 1873 in Kazan, had risen to global acclaim through his
powerful voice and dramatic stage presence, performing roles like Boris
Godunov and Mephistopheles at venues such as the Bolshoi Theatre and La
Scala. This purchase marked his first private home in Moscow,
symbolizing his ascent from humble origins to cultural icon.
Chaliapin's first wife, the Italian ballerina Iola Ignatievna Tornagi
(sometimes spelled Tarnagi), played a pivotal role in transforming the
estate. Married to Chaliapin since 1898, she oversaw extensive
renovations that modernized the house into a comfortable European-style
manor. Innovations included installing running water, gas heating, a
bathroom, and even a telephone—luxuries uncommon in Moscow at the time.
The garden was enhanced with a gazebo offering views of the Moscow
River, along with plantings of linden trees, jasmine, and lilac bushes,
creating a serene family oasis amid the bustling city.
The family
life here was vibrant and creative. Chaliapin and Tornagi raised their
six children (five of whom survived infancy) in the home, with the
estate serving as both a domestic retreat and a hub for artistic
gatherings. The White Hall was used for concert rehearsals, the dining
room hosted celebratory dinners after successful performances, and
Chaliapin's office became a space for reading, reflection, and planning
his innovative stage productions. Frequent visitors included luminaries
of Russian culture, such as composers Sergei Rachmaninoff and Leonid
Sobinov, writers Maxim Gorky and Ivan Bunin, painter Konstantin Korovin,
and theater director Konstantin Stanislavsky. These gatherings
underscored Chaliapin's central role in the Silver Age of Russian arts,
a period of intense cultural flourishing before the Bolshevik
Revolution.
However, Chaliapin's time in the house was disrupted by
personal and political upheavals. By 1918, amid the Russian Civil War,
he relocated to Petrograd (now St. Petersburg) with his second partner,
Maria Petzold, while Tornagi remained in Moscow with the children. In
1922, Chaliapin emigrated from Soviet Russia, never to return, citing
artistic freedoms and economic hardships. He continued his career
abroad, performing in Europe and the United States until his death in
Paris in 1938. Tornagi stayed in the Moscow estate through the turbulent
Soviet years, safeguarding the property and its contents.
Preservation and Establishment as a Museum
Following Chaliapin's
departure, the estate's fate hung in the balance during the early Soviet
era. Tornagi, demonstrating remarkable resilience, convinced Bolshevik
authorities to preserve the house by emphasizing its cultural
significance. Her efforts prevented the mansion from being requisitioned
or demolished, as many similar properties were during nationalization
campaigns. Instead, it was informally protected, with Tornagi proposing
the idea of a memorial dedicated to her husband's legacy.
The formal
establishment of the museum occurred much later, in 1988, as a branch of
the Russian National Museum of Music (formerly the Glinka Museum). This
timing coincided with perestroika-era reforms under Mikhail Gorbachev,
which encouraged the revival of pre-revolutionary cultural heritage.
Tornagi, who lived until 1965, had been the primary initiator,
advocating for the site to honor Chaliapin's contributions to Russian
opera. The interiors were meticulously restored based on historical
photographs, family memoirs, and surviving artifacts, recreating the
atmosphere of Chaliapin's era.
A significant milestone came in 1984
when Chaliapin's remains were repatriated from Paris and reburied in
Moscow's Novodevichy Cemetery with state honors, symbolizing the Soviet
Union's reconciliation with his legacy. This event likely bolstered
support for the museum's development. Restorations continued into the
1990s and beyond, preserving the wooden structure against urban decay
and modernizing facilities for visitors.
Collections and Features
The museum's collections are deeply personal, focusing on Chaliapin's
life, family, and artistic achievements. Key items include original
family furnishings such as ornate furniture, a Bechstein piano (used for
rehearsals), grandfather clocks, and wedding candles from Chaliapin and
Tornagi's marriage. A standout feature is the array of paintings gifted
to Chaliapin by prominent artists, including Valentin Serov, Konstantin
Korovin, Vasily Polenov, Mikhail Nesterov, and Mikhail Vrubel.
Chaliapin's son, Boris, a noted artist himself, donated a collection of
his own works depicting his father.
Theatrical memorabilia abounds,
with stage costumes, production posters, photographs, letters, and set
designs chronicling Chaliapin's groundbreaking performances. The
permanent exhibition emphasizes his first family and Moscow years, while
temporary displays explore broader themes in Russian music. Unique
elements include video recreations of Chaliapin's favorite
dishes—blending Russian and Italian cuisines—narrated by an Italian chef
and based on Tornagi's recipes. The courtyard garden, with its blooming
flowers and singing birds, adds to the immersive experience.
Current Status and Significance
Today, the museum remains an active
cultural institution, open to the public and attracting opera
enthusiasts, historians, and tourists. It hosts concerts featuring young
performers, art exhibitions, creative workshops, and even children's
events, keeping Chaliapin's spirit alive in contemporary Moscow. As a
branch of the Russian National Museum of Music, it contributes to the
preservation of Russia's operatic heritage, offering insights into the
intersection of art, family, and revolution. In an era of rapid
urbanization, the estate stands as a testament to Moscow's layered
history, bridging the imperial past with the Soviet and post-Soviet
present.
Architecture and Layout
The building is a classic example of late
18th-century Moscow wooden architecture, with a light-fawn facade facing
Novinsky Boulevard. It features a one-story front elevation and
two-story wings extending into the courtyard, creating an enfilade (a
series of aligned rooms) on the first and second floors. The green roof,
ornamental chimneys, and gated entrance remain as they were during
Chaliapin's residency, evoking the era's blend of Russian tradition and
European influence. Inside, the layout reflects a bourgeois family home
adapted for an artist's lifestyle: communal spaces for entertaining,
private quarters for rest, and areas tied to Chaliapin's theatrical
pursuits. Visitors often note the cozy, immersive feel, enhanced by
period music playing throughout and audio guides available in Russian
and English for self-paced exploration (tours typically last about two
hours).
The Collection: Overview
The museum's collection
totals thousands of items, focusing on authenticity rather than breadth.
It includes personal belongings, family heirlooms, theatrical
memorabilia, and a significant art holdings donated or acquired by
Chaliapin. Key categories encompass furniture, photographs, archival
documents, stage costumes, performance posters and programs, household
items, and artworks. Many pieces were gifted by relatives, such as
Chaliapin's son Boris (a noted artist himself), ensuring a direct link
to the singer's life. The emphasis is on recreating the home's original
ambiance, with items placed in their historical contexts to illustrate
Chaliapin's dual role as a family man and international star. Notable
themes include his operatic innovations (e.g., naturalistic acting), his
social circle of Russian intellectuals, and his passion for collecting
art.
Room-by-Room Highlights
The museum is organized as a
house tour, with rooms restored to their 1910s–1920s appearance:
Entrance Hall and Chaliapin's Room: The entryway connects to Chaliapin's
personal space, featuring family photographs, wedding ribbons, and
everyday items like his reading chair. Adjoining mezzanines hold
additional memorabilia, emphasizing his grounded family life amid fame.
White Hall: This grand space served as a rehearsal room for guests and
performances. It houses a Bechstein piano (used by Chaliapin for
practice), a grandfather clock, and wedding candles from Fyodor and
Iola's marriage. The hall highlights Chaliapin's role in mentoring young
artists.
Green Drawing Room: A cozy salon where small troupe
performances occurred, involving Chaliapin's children and actors like
Ruben Simonov. Exhibits include an antique gramophone with records of
opera singers (including Chaliapin's own), his original armchair from
his later Paris apartment, and the painting "Portrait of a Gypsy" by
Irish artist O'Connell, acquired in Brussels. This room underscores
Chaliapin's love for music and theater in intimate settings.
Dining
Room: Designed for large gatherings (the original table seats over 30),
it was the site of post-performance celebrations. The sideboard displays
hand-painted dinner services with imperial family symbols, while walls
feature paintings by Konstantin Korovin. Unique items include cutlery
coasters shaped like animals, adding a whimsical touch to the formal
space.
Study and Billiard Room: Chaliapin's study reflects his
intellectual side, with books and reading materials. The adjacent
billiard room contains a custom table gifted by Iola, crafted by V.K.
Schultz, symbolizing leisure amid his demanding career.
Iola
Chaliapina's Room: Dedicated to Chaliapin's wife, it includes her
portrait by son Boris, a landscape of Mount Ayu-Dag, and personal
effects, highlighting her role in managing the household and
renovations.
Dressing Room (Under the Stairs): A hidden gem with
theatrical props like false noses, chain mail, and stage costumes,
offering insight into Chaliapin's transformative performances.
Art Collection
A standout feature is the array of artworks gifted to
Chaliapin by prominent Russian artists, reflecting his patronage and
friendships. Highlights include paintings by Valentin Serov, Vasily
Polenov, Mikhail Nesterov, Mikhail Vrubel, and Konstantin Korovin. Boris
Chaliapin later donated a substantial collection of his own works,
including portraits and scenes tied to his father's legacy. These pieces
are integrated throughout the rooms, blending fine art with daily life.
Additional Features and Events
Adjacent to the main house is the
Gallery of the F.I. Chaliapin Memorial Estate, which hosts rotating
exhibitions on vocal history, drawing from museums and private
collections. The museum also runs concert series, master classes by
singers, and programs like "Musical Capitals of the World," "Piano
Evenings at the Chaliapin House," and "Debut at the Chaliapin House,"
keeping Chaliapin's musical spirit alive. Archival documents and posters
further document his tours and innovations in opera.