Literary Cafe, Saint Petersburg

Nevskiy Prospekt 18
Tel. 312 6057
Open: 11am- 11pm
Subway: Nevskiy Prospekt

 

The Literary Café (Russian: Литературное кафе, Literaturnoye Kafe) is one of Saint Petersburg’s most historically significant and culturally evocative establishments, located at Nevsky Prospect 18, at the corner of the Moika River Embankment. Established in 1816 as the confectionery of S. Wolf and T. Beranger, it became a gathering place for Russia’s literary elite, most notably Alexander Pushkin, who visited before his fatal duel in 1837. Today, the two-story restaurant preserves the ambiance of 19th-century Saint Petersburg, offering Russian and French cuisine, live music, and a nostalgic tribute to the city’s artistic heritage. Its rich history, elegant decor, and connection to Russian literature make it a must-visit landmark.

 

Historical Background

The Literary Café’s origins trace back to 1816, when French baker Valot and Swiss confectioner Tobias Branger (who styled himself Beranger) opened a confectionery in a building at Nevsky Prospect 18, designed by architect Vasily Stasov between 1812 and 1815. The building, originally the residence of tailor Johann Neumann in 1738 and later home to Admiral Cornelius Cruys’ lodge, had already hosted Saint Petersburg’s first wax museum. The confectionery, known as S. Wolf and T. Beranger after Valot’s death, when Davos native Salomon Wolf joined Beranger, quickly gained fame for its innovative offerings, including hot chocolate—a novelty in Russia—and confections shaped like knights, fairy-tale castles, and portraits of notable figures.

By the 1820s, the confectionery was a cultural hub, offering free foreign newspapers and magazines, which attracted writers, poets, and journalists. Its central location on Nevsky Prospect, Saint Petersburg’s main artery, made it a magnet for the city’s intellectual elite. Regular patrons included Alexander Pushkin, Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Mikhail Lermontov, Taras Shevchenko, Ivan Turgenev, and Nikolai Nekrasov. Pushkin, who lived nearby, was a frequent visitor, and on January 27, 1837, he stopped at the café for a glass of lemonade or tea before heading to his fatal duel with Georges-Charles d’Anthès at the Black River, where he was mortally wounded over rumors of an affair involving his wife, Nathalie.

In 1834, the confectionery expanded to include a “Chinese café” (Café Chinois), serving savory dishes alongside sweets. By 1858, it was replaced by a posh restaurant frequented by musicians like Pyotr Tchaikovsky and Feodor Chaliapin. A controversial legend claims Tchaikovsky contracted cholera from a contaminated glass of water at the café in 1893, leading to his death, though this is debated among historians. From 1858 to 2001, the building’s basement housed a used bookstore, adding to its literary aura.

The modern Literary Café opened in 1983 after a major renovation from 1978 to 1981, restoring the building’s 19th-century charm. The decision to revive the café as a cultural landmark reflected post-Soviet efforts to reconnect with pre-revolutionary heritage, particularly Pushkin’s legacy as the founder of modern Russian literature. In 2019, representatives of the café met with descendants of Wolf and Beranger in Davos, Switzerland, where the confectioners’ legacy is preserved in a local history museum, highlighting the café’s international historical ties.

 

Architectural and Interior Features

The Literary Café occupies two floors of a butter-yellow, Baroque-style building at Nevsky Prospect 18, designed by Vasily Stasov. The exterior, with its ornate flourishes, has remained largely unchanged since the early 19th century, blending seamlessly with Saint Petersburg’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic center. The café’s interior is a meticulous recreation of a 19th-century aristocratic salon, evoking the elegance of Pushkin’s era.

Ground Floor (Grand Café Literaturnoye): The lower level serves as a casual café, offering lighter fare like coffee, tea, and pastries. The decor is simpler but retains historical touches, such as portraits of Russian writers and vintage furnishings. A wax figure of Pushkin, seated at a writing desk with lifelike curls and sideburns, greets visitors in the entry hall, commemorating his final visit in 1837.
First Floor (Restaurant Literaturnoye): The upper floor is the heart of the café, designed as a formal dining room in the style of 19th-century Russian salons. Heavy green curtains, gilt accents, crystal chandeliers, and soft lighting create a romantic, nostalgic atmosphere. The walls are adorned with historical prints of Saint Petersburg, portraits of literary figures, and plaques naming notable guests, including Margaret Thatcher and Mikhail Gorbachev. A tapestry depicts Pushkin’s bookshelves, and windowsills feature Russian-crafted dolls of characters from his fairy tales. The staff wear period-inspired uniforms—crisp white shirts, black waistcoats, and bow ties—enhancing the historical ambiance.
The café’s location at the corner of Nevsky Prospect and the Moika River offers scenic views, especially from the small outdoor terrace, though its proximity to a modern KFC outlet creates a jarring contrast noted by some visitors. The building’s historical significance is underscored by its earlier incarnations, including a wax museum and a merchant’s apartment, which add layers to its cultural narrative.

 

Dining Experience and Menu

The Literary Café specializes in Russian and French cuisine, prepared according to 19th-century recipes to evoke Pushkin’s era. The menu blends traditional dishes with refined presentations, catering to both tourists and locals seeking a historical dining experience. Key offerings include:

Appetizers: Zakuski (cold snacks like pickled vegetables, herring toasts, or Olivier salad), blini with salmon roe and sour cream, and vinegret (beet salad).
Soups: Shchi (cabbage soup with a puff pastry lid), borscht with sour cream, and pumpkin soup.
Main Courses: Beef Stroganoff, Pozharsky cutlets (breaded chicken with cranberry sauce), venison, duck, pork loin, and “Meat Saint Petersburg” (beef balls with mushrooms).
Desserts: Apple pie, baked apples with vanilla ice cream, millefoglie, stuffed prunes, and Pavlova.
Drinks: Mulled wine, champagne, local draft beer, black tea, coffee, hot chocolate, and non-alcoholic options like lemonade.
The “Poet’s Menu,” featuring Pushkin’s alleged favorites like shchi and Pozharsky cutlets, is a highlight, priced at approximately 1,600 rubles ($25 USD) for a multi-course meal. Recent updates include gastronomic novelties, with a 10% discount on the menu and wine list for birthday celebrations. However, some reviews note that the café is cash-only, a potential inconvenience for international visitors.

The dining experience is elevated by live music, offered daily from 7:00 PM to 11:00 PM on the first floor. Performances feature a grand piano, accordion, trumpet, double bass, or vocalists singing Russian folk songs, art songs, or cabaret standards, occasionally including playful covers like “Yellow Submarine.” Poetic readings of Pushkin’s works further immerse guests in the literary atmosphere. Service is generally praised for its professionalism, with waitstaff described as courteous and attentive, though some reports highlight inconsistent experiences, including rudeness or perceived discrimination.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

The Literary Café is a living monument to Saint Petersburg’s golden age of literature, particularly the Pushkin era (1810s–1830s), when the city was a crucible for Russian intellectual life. Its association with Pushkin, considered the founder of modern Russian literature, imbues it with near-mythic status. His final visit before the 1837 duel—a tragic event sparked by personal and social tensions—lends the café a poignant aura, reinforced by the wax figure and historical decor.

The café’s role as a salon for writers like Dostoyevsky, Lermontov, and Turgenev underscores its importance as a space for intellectual exchange. In the 1820s, its provision of uncensored foreign press made it a rare venue for open discourse, fostering debates among Russia’s emerging literary class. The presence of musicians like Tchaikovsky and Chaliapin in later years extended its cultural reach, bridging literature and the performing arts.

In the post-Soviet era, the café’s 1983 reopening was a deliberate act of cultural reclamation, countering Soviet-era suppression of pre-revolutionary heritage. Its emphasis on Pushkin aligns with his enduring status as a national icon, while the restoration of 19th-century aesthetics reflects Saint Petersburg’s identity as a city of romantic nostalgia. The 2019 Davos meeting with Wolf and Beranger’s descendants highlights its international legacy, connecting Saint Petersburg to European culinary and cultural traditions.

Critically, the café’s historical narrative is selective, focusing heavily on Pushkin while sidelining other figures like Dostoyevsky, whose complex relationship with Saint Petersburg’s elite is less romanticized. The Tchaikovsky cholera legend, though evocative, lacks definitive evidence and may serve to amplify the café’s mystique. The cash-only policy and occasional service complaints, as noted in reviews, suggest operational challenges that contrast with its upscale image.

 

Modern Role and Visitor Experience

As of 2025, the Literary Café operates daily from 11:00 AM to 1:00 AM, with table reservations available at +7-981-715-08-40 or +7 (812) 312-60-57. Located at Nevsky Prospect 18, it is a five-minute walk from the Hermitage and close to attractions like the Stroganov Palace, Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, and Green Bridge over the Moika. Accessible via metro stations Admiralteyskaya or Nevsky Prospekt, it is a convenient stop for tourists exploring the city’s historic core.

The café attracts a mix of literary enthusiasts, history buffs, and foodies, drawn by its Pushkin connection and 19th-century ambiance. Tripadvisor reviews (rated 4.0/5 from over 800 reviews) praise its “romantic atmosphere,” “fantastic food,” and live music, with dishes like Beef Stroganoff and blini earning high marks. However, some visitors report mixed experiences, citing overpriced food, small portions, or unwelcoming service, including a 2023 review alleging discriminatory treatment toward Chinese patrons. Restaurant Guru rates it 4.1/5 based on 2,727 reviews, commending its cozy decor and competent staff.

The café’s small terrace offers al fresco dining with views of Nevsky Prospect, though its limited size (noted in a French review) suits smaller groups. Takeaway and food delivery are available, catering to modern convenience. The website (litcafe.su) provides menu details, music schedules, and booking options, enhancing accessibility. For a richer experience, visitors can join guided literary tours, such as those offered by Peter’s Walking Tours, which contextualize the café within Pushkin’s Saint Petersburg.

 

Critical Analysis

The Literary Café is a masterclass in cultural preservation, transforming a 19th-century confectionery into a living tribute to Russian literature. Its strength lies in its immersive atmosphere—chandeliers, live music, and Pushkin’s wax figure create a time capsule that resonates with Saint Petersburg’s romantic identity. The “Poet’s Menu” and historical recipes cleverly tie the dining experience to Pushkin’s era, appealing to tourists seeking authenticity.

However, the café’s heavy focus on Pushkin risks oversimplifying its history. Figures like Dostoyevsky, whose gritty realism contrasted with Pushkin’s romanticism, are underrepresented, potentially skewing the narrative toward a sanitized, aristocratic ideal. The Tchaikovsky cholera story, while intriguing, lacks corroboration and may serve as a marketing embellishment. The cash-only policy, noted in recent reviews, is a practical drawback in a digital age, potentially alienating international visitors.

Service inconsistencies, including allegations of rudeness or bias, raise concerns about inclusivity, particularly in a city positioning itself as a global tourism hub. The café’s high prices, while justified by its historical cachet and central location, may deter budget-conscious travelers, as some reviews suggest the food quality doesn’t always match the cost.

Compared to other Saint Petersburg landmarks, the Literary Café occupies a unique niche. Unlike the Hermitage or Saint Isaac’s Cathedral, which emphasize visual grandeur, the café offers an intimate, sensory experience rooted in literature and cuisine. It contrasts with quirky monuments like Chizhik-Pyzhik, which celebrate folklore, by focusing on high culture. Yet, its reliance on Pushkin’s mythos mirrors the city’s broader tendency to romanticize its imperial past, sometimes at the expense of broader historical nuance.