Nevskiy Prospekt 18
Tel. 312 6057
Open: 11am- 11pm
Subway: Nevskiy Prospekt
The Literary Café (Russian: Литературное кафе, Literaturnoye Kafe) is one of Saint Petersburg’s most historically significant and culturally evocative establishments, located at Nevsky Prospect 18, at the corner of the Moika River Embankment. Established in 1816 as the confectionery of S. Wolf and T. Beranger, it became a gathering place for Russia’s literary elite, most notably Alexander Pushkin, who visited before his fatal duel in 1837. Today, the two-story restaurant preserves the ambiance of 19th-century Saint Petersburg, offering Russian and French cuisine, live music, and a nostalgic tribute to the city’s artistic heritage. Its rich history, elegant decor, and connection to Russian literature make it a must-visit landmark.
The Literary Café’s origins trace back to 1816, when French baker
Valot and Swiss confectioner Tobias Branger (who styled himself
Beranger) opened a confectionery in a building at Nevsky Prospect 18,
designed by architect Vasily Stasov between 1812 and 1815. The building,
originally the residence of tailor Johann Neumann in 1738 and later home
to Admiral Cornelius Cruys’ lodge, had already hosted Saint Petersburg’s
first wax museum. The confectionery, known as S. Wolf and T. Beranger
after Valot’s death, when Davos native Salomon Wolf joined Beranger,
quickly gained fame for its innovative offerings, including hot
chocolate—a novelty in Russia—and confections shaped like knights,
fairy-tale castles, and portraits of notable figures.
By the
1820s, the confectionery was a cultural hub, offering free foreign
newspapers and magazines, which attracted writers, poets, and
journalists. Its central location on Nevsky Prospect, Saint Petersburg’s
main artery, made it a magnet for the city’s intellectual elite. Regular
patrons included Alexander Pushkin, Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Mikhail
Lermontov, Taras Shevchenko, Ivan Turgenev, and Nikolai Nekrasov.
Pushkin, who lived nearby, was a frequent visitor, and on January 27,
1837, he stopped at the café for a glass of lemonade or tea before
heading to his fatal duel with Georges-Charles d’Anthès at the Black
River, where he was mortally wounded over rumors of an affair involving
his wife, Nathalie.
In 1834, the confectionery expanded to
include a “Chinese café” (Café Chinois), serving savory dishes alongside
sweets. By 1858, it was replaced by a posh restaurant frequented by
musicians like Pyotr Tchaikovsky and Feodor Chaliapin. A controversial
legend claims Tchaikovsky contracted cholera from a contaminated glass
of water at the café in 1893, leading to his death, though this is
debated among historians. From 1858 to 2001, the building’s basement
housed a used bookstore, adding to its literary aura.
The modern
Literary Café opened in 1983 after a major renovation from 1978 to 1981,
restoring the building’s 19th-century charm. The decision to revive the
café as a cultural landmark reflected post-Soviet efforts to reconnect
with pre-revolutionary heritage, particularly Pushkin’s legacy as the
founder of modern Russian literature. In 2019, representatives of the
café met with descendants of Wolf and Beranger in Davos, Switzerland,
where the confectioners’ legacy is preserved in a local history museum,
highlighting the café’s international historical ties.
The Literary Café occupies two floors of a butter-yellow,
Baroque-style building at Nevsky Prospect 18, designed by Vasily Stasov.
The exterior, with its ornate flourishes, has remained largely unchanged
since the early 19th century, blending seamlessly with Saint
Petersburg’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic center. The café’s
interior is a meticulous recreation of a 19th-century aristocratic
salon, evoking the elegance of Pushkin’s era.
Ground Floor (Grand
Café Literaturnoye): The lower level serves as a casual café, offering
lighter fare like coffee, tea, and pastries. The decor is simpler but
retains historical touches, such as portraits of Russian writers and
vintage furnishings. A wax figure of Pushkin, seated at a writing desk
with lifelike curls and sideburns, greets visitors in the entry hall,
commemorating his final visit in 1837.
First Floor (Restaurant
Literaturnoye): The upper floor is the heart of the café, designed as a
formal dining room in the style of 19th-century Russian salons. Heavy
green curtains, gilt accents, crystal chandeliers, and soft lighting
create a romantic, nostalgic atmosphere. The walls are adorned with
historical prints of Saint Petersburg, portraits of literary figures,
and plaques naming notable guests, including Margaret Thatcher and
Mikhail Gorbachev. A tapestry depicts Pushkin’s bookshelves, and
windowsills feature Russian-crafted dolls of characters from his fairy
tales. The staff wear period-inspired uniforms—crisp white shirts, black
waistcoats, and bow ties—enhancing the historical ambiance.
The
café’s location at the corner of Nevsky Prospect and the Moika River
offers scenic views, especially from the small outdoor terrace, though
its proximity to a modern KFC outlet creates a jarring contrast noted by
some visitors. The building’s historical significance is underscored by
its earlier incarnations, including a wax museum and a merchant’s
apartment, which add layers to its cultural narrative.
The Literary Café specializes in Russian and French cuisine, prepared
according to 19th-century recipes to evoke Pushkin’s era. The menu
blends traditional dishes with refined presentations, catering to both
tourists and locals seeking a historical dining experience. Key
offerings include:
Appetizers: Zakuski (cold snacks like pickled
vegetables, herring toasts, or Olivier salad), blini with salmon roe and
sour cream, and vinegret (beet salad).
Soups: Shchi (cabbage soup
with a puff pastry lid), borscht with sour cream, and pumpkin soup.
Main Courses: Beef Stroganoff, Pozharsky cutlets (breaded chicken with
cranberry sauce), venison, duck, pork loin, and “Meat Saint Petersburg”
(beef balls with mushrooms).
Desserts: Apple pie, baked apples with
vanilla ice cream, millefoglie, stuffed prunes, and Pavlova.
Drinks:
Mulled wine, champagne, local draft beer, black tea, coffee, hot
chocolate, and non-alcoholic options like lemonade.
The “Poet’s
Menu,” featuring Pushkin’s alleged favorites like shchi and Pozharsky
cutlets, is a highlight, priced at approximately 1,600 rubles ($25 USD)
for a multi-course meal. Recent updates include gastronomic novelties,
with a 10% discount on the menu and wine list for birthday celebrations.
However, some reviews note that the café is cash-only, a potential
inconvenience for international visitors.
The dining experience
is elevated by live music, offered daily from 7:00 PM to 11:00 PM on the
first floor. Performances feature a grand piano, accordion, trumpet,
double bass, or vocalists singing Russian folk songs, art songs, or
cabaret standards, occasionally including playful covers like “Yellow
Submarine.” Poetic readings of Pushkin’s works further immerse guests in
the literary atmosphere. Service is generally praised for its
professionalism, with waitstaff described as courteous and attentive,
though some reports highlight inconsistent experiences, including
rudeness or perceived discrimination.
The Literary Café is a living monument to Saint Petersburg’s golden
age of literature, particularly the Pushkin era (1810s–1830s), when the
city was a crucible for Russian intellectual life. Its association with
Pushkin, considered the founder of modern Russian literature, imbues it
with near-mythic status. His final visit before the 1837 duel—a tragic
event sparked by personal and social tensions—lends the café a poignant
aura, reinforced by the wax figure and historical decor.
The
café’s role as a salon for writers like Dostoyevsky, Lermontov, and
Turgenev underscores its importance as a space for intellectual
exchange. In the 1820s, its provision of uncensored foreign press made
it a rare venue for open discourse, fostering debates among Russia’s
emerging literary class. The presence of musicians like Tchaikovsky and
Chaliapin in later years extended its cultural reach, bridging
literature and the performing arts.
In the post-Soviet era, the
café’s 1983 reopening was a deliberate act of cultural reclamation,
countering Soviet-era suppression of pre-revolutionary heritage. Its
emphasis on Pushkin aligns with his enduring status as a national icon,
while the restoration of 19th-century aesthetics reflects Saint
Petersburg’s identity as a city of romantic nostalgia. The 2019 Davos
meeting with Wolf and Beranger’s descendants highlights its
international legacy, connecting Saint Petersburg to European culinary
and cultural traditions.
Critically, the café’s historical
narrative is selective, focusing heavily on Pushkin while sidelining
other figures like Dostoyevsky, whose complex relationship with Saint
Petersburg’s elite is less romanticized. The Tchaikovsky cholera legend,
though evocative, lacks definitive evidence and may serve to amplify the
café’s mystique. The cash-only policy and occasional service complaints,
as noted in reviews, suggest operational challenges that contrast with
its upscale image.
As of 2025, the Literary Café operates daily from 11:00 AM to 1:00
AM, with table reservations available at +7-981-715-08-40 or +7 (812)
312-60-57. Located at Nevsky Prospect 18, it is a five-minute walk from
the Hermitage and close to attractions like the Stroganov Palace, Church
of the Savior on Spilled Blood, and Green Bridge over the Moika.
Accessible via metro stations Admiralteyskaya or Nevsky Prospekt, it is
a convenient stop for tourists exploring the city’s historic core.
The café attracts a mix of literary enthusiasts, history buffs, and
foodies, drawn by its Pushkin connection and 19th-century ambiance.
Tripadvisor reviews (rated 4.0/5 from over 800 reviews) praise its
“romantic atmosphere,” “fantastic food,” and live music, with dishes
like Beef Stroganoff and blini earning high marks. However, some
visitors report mixed experiences, citing overpriced food, small
portions, or unwelcoming service, including a 2023 review alleging
discriminatory treatment toward Chinese patrons. Restaurant Guru rates
it 4.1/5 based on 2,727 reviews, commending its cozy decor and competent
staff.
The café’s small terrace offers al fresco dining with
views of Nevsky Prospect, though its limited size (noted in a French
review) suits smaller groups. Takeaway and food delivery are available,
catering to modern convenience. The website (litcafe.su) provides menu
details, music schedules, and booking options, enhancing accessibility.
For a richer experience, visitors can join guided literary tours, such
as those offered by Peter’s Walking Tours, which contextualize the café
within Pushkin’s Saint Petersburg.
The Literary Café is a masterclass in cultural preservation,
transforming a 19th-century confectionery into a living tribute to
Russian literature. Its strength lies in its immersive
atmosphere—chandeliers, live music, and Pushkin’s wax figure create a
time capsule that resonates with Saint Petersburg’s romantic identity.
The “Poet’s Menu” and historical recipes cleverly tie the dining
experience to Pushkin’s era, appealing to tourists seeking authenticity.
However, the café’s heavy focus on Pushkin risks oversimplifying its
history. Figures like Dostoyevsky, whose gritty realism contrasted with
Pushkin’s romanticism, are underrepresented, potentially skewing the
narrative toward a sanitized, aristocratic ideal. The Tchaikovsky
cholera story, while intriguing, lacks corroboration and may serve as a
marketing embellishment. The cash-only policy, noted in recent reviews,
is a practical drawback in a digital age, potentially alienating
international visitors.
Service inconsistencies, including
allegations of rudeness or bias, raise concerns about inclusivity,
particularly in a city positioning itself as a global tourism hub. The
café’s high prices, while justified by its historical cachet and central
location, may deter budget-conscious travelers, as some reviews suggest
the food quality doesn’t always match the cost.
Compared to other
Saint Petersburg landmarks, the Literary Café occupies a unique niche.
Unlike the Hermitage or Saint Isaac’s Cathedral, which emphasize visual
grandeur, the café offers an intimate, sensory experience rooted in
literature and cuisine. It contrasts with quirky monuments like
Chizhik-Pyzhik, which celebrate folklore, by focusing on high culture.
Yet, its reliance on Pushkin’s mythos mirrors the city’s broader
tendency to romanticize its imperial past, sometimes at the expense of
broader historical nuance.