Kadykchan (Russian: Кадыкча́н; Even: Кадагчан) is a depopulated urban locality (classified as a work settlement) in the Susumansky District of Magadan Oblast, located in the far northeast of Russia. Once a thriving Soviet coal-mining town, Kadykchan is now one of Siberia’s most iconic ghost towns, abandoned due to economic collapse and harsh environmental conditions following the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Situated in the Upper Kolyma Highlands along the Ayan-Yuryakh River, approximately 65 kilometers (40 miles) northwest of Susuman and 700 kilometers from Magadan, Kadykchan’s remote location and haunting relics make it a compelling subject for urban explorers and dark tourists. Its name, derived from the indigenous Even language, translates to “small gorge” or “ravine,” reflecting its geographical setting in a narrow valley.
Kadykchan lies in the Kolyma region, a remote and rugged part of
Siberia known for its extreme climate and historical association with
Gulag labor camps. Positioned just below the Arctic Circle in the Upper
Kolyma Highlands, the town is nestled in the basin of the Ayan-Yuryakh
River, a tributary of the Kolyma River. The surrounding landscape
features narrow valleys, hills, and taiga vegetation, with permafrost
limiting the growing season to approximately three months. The climate
is subarctic, characterized by:
Winters: Long (up to 10 months),
with temperatures dropping to −50°C (−58°F) or lower, accompanied by
glacial winds and heavy snow.
Summers: Short and cool, with average
temperatures around 10–15°C (50–59°F), though brief warm spells occur.
Precipitation: Moderate, often as snow, with frequent foggy conditions.
The town’s isolation is profound, accessible only via the Kolyma Highway
(nicknamed the “Road of Bones” due to its construction by Gulag
prisoners, many of whom perished). The highway, roughly 1,300 km from
Yakutsk and 700 km from Magadan, is often impassable due to snow, mud,
or debris, requiring a 14-hour drive from Magadan under optimal
conditions. Kadykchan’s roads are deteriorated, with debris and
overgrowth rendering them unsuitable for standard vehicles,
necessitating exploration on foot.
Kadykchan’s history is a microcosm of Soviet ambition, Gulag
brutality, and post-communist decline:
Foundation (1940s):
Established during World War II, Kadykchan was built by Gulag prisoners
to exploit significant coal deposits discovered in the Kolyma region.
The settlement was strategically located to supply coal to the
Arkagalinskaya electric power station. Among the prisoners was Varlam
Shalamov, a renowned Soviet writer who chronicled the brutal conditions
of Kolyma’s camps, including two years in Kadykchan’s mines. The town’s
construction was part of Stalin’s push to industrialize the USSR using
forced labor, with prisoners enduring malnutrition, extreme cold, and
hazardous work in mines reaching 400 meters (1,300 feet) deep.
Post-Gulag Growth (1960s–1980s): After the Gulag system was dismantled
in the 1950s, many freed prisoners and voluntary workers settled in
Kadykchan, drawn by employment in the coal mines. The town developed
into a functioning community, with Soviet-style apartment blocks,
schools, a cinema, and recreational facilities. By the mid-1980s, the
population peaked at approximately 10,000–12,000, a significant size for
a remote Siberian settlement.
Decline (1990s): The dissolution of the
Soviet Union in 1991 triggered economic collapse in remote industrial
towns like Kadykchan. Coal mining became unprofitable due to market
liberalization and reduced state subsidies. One of the town’s two mines
closed in 1992, and a methane explosion in the remaining mine in 1996,
which killed six people, led to its permanent closure. The loss of the
town’s primary industry devastated the economy, and residents began
leaving.
Abandonment (Late 1990s–2000s): A severe winter in 1996–1997
exacerbated the crisis, with frozen water pipes and a failing heating
system rendering the town nearly unlivable. The Russian government
offered subsidies to relocate residents, accelerating the exodus. By
1998, only about 500 people remained, and by 2003, the population had
dwindled to 470. The 2010 Census recorded zero residents, though some
sources suggest a handful of holdouts persisted into the early 2010s.
Authorities demolished or torched some buildings to discourage return,
leaving Kadykchan a ghost town.
Critical Note: Some sources, like
OrangeSmile.com, claim 200 residents remained as late as 2006, but this
contradicts official census data and more reliable accounts, which
confirm complete depopulation by 2010. The discrepancy may stem from
unofficial reports or confusion with nearby settlements like Myaundzha,
which is partially inhabited.
Kadykchan’s population history reflects its rise and fall:
1986: Peak of 10,000–12,000 residents, primarily miners, their families,
and support workers.
1989: Declined to 5,800, signaling early
economic strain.
1997: Approximately 500 residents after the mine
closure and harsh winter.
2003: 470 residents, per English Russia.
2010: 0 residents, per official census.
2012: Anecdotal reports of
one or two holdouts, though unverified.
The population was
diverse, including ethnic Russians, descendants of Gulag prisoners, and
voluntary settlers from across the Soviet Union, such as Vladimir
Voskresensky’s parents, who came from Moscow and the Urals. The Even
people, indigenous to the region, had minimal presence, though their
language influenced the town’s name. The rapid depopulation left behind
personal belongings, creating a time capsule of Soviet life.
Kadykchan was a monotown, entirely dependent on coal mining:
Coal Mining: The town’s two mines, with depths of 400 meters, supplied
the Arkagalinskaya power station, critical for regional energy needs
during the Soviet era. Miners worked grueling schedules (e.g., 10 AM–10
PM with a one-hour break, no holidays), reflecting the demanding
conditions.
Post-Soviet Collapse: The transition to a market economy
after 1991 made coal extraction unprofitable due to high operational
costs in such a remote location. The 1992 mine closure and 1996
explosion eliminated the town’s economic base.
Current State: No
economic activity exists today. Occasional asset-strippers from nearby
towns like Myaundzha scavenge copper wiring, wood, or pipes, but
Kadykchan has no formal economy.
The town’s reliance on a single
industry, a hallmark of Soviet planning, left it vulnerable to economic
shifts, a fate shared by many Kolyma settlements, with only three of
over 70 expected to survive long-term.
Kadykchan’s cultural life, while modest, reflected Soviet ideals of
community and resilience:
Community Life: At its peak, Kadykchan
had schools, a cinema, a sports hall, a bakery, and a tailor’s shop,
fostering a sense of normalcy despite its isolation. Residents grew
vegetables, attended movies (e.g., The Death of Japan in 1976), and
participated in sports, as recalled by former resident Vladimir
Voskresensky.
Soviet Symbolism: A bust of Lenin, now dilapidated,
remains in the town square, symbolizing its Soviet roots. Abandoned
apartments contain relics like Cheburashka figurines (a beloved Russian
children’s character) and Soviet-era posters, evoking nostalgia.
Indigenous Influence: The Even people contributed the town’s name, but
their cultural presence was overshadowed by Soviet standardization.
Post-Abandonment: The eerie silence and decay, described as “spooky” by
visitors, create a melancholic atmosphere, with overgrown sidewalks and
rusted playgrounds amplifying the sense of loss.
The town’s cultural
artifacts, left behind during the rapid evacuation, are a draw for
explorers, though ethical debates surround taking souvenirs from such
sites.
Kadykchan’s infrastructure, once functional, is now in ruins:
Housing: Soviet-style apartment blocks, now crumbling, dominate the
town. Windows are broken, roofs sag, and interiors are littered with
abandoned furniture, books, and personal items.
Utilities: The
heating system (critical in −50°C winters) and water pipes failed in
1996–1997, rendering the town unlivable. Electricity and sewage systems
are long defunct.
Transportation: The Kolyma Highway provides the
only access, but local roads are impassable due to debris and
overgrowth. Visitors must park and walk. No railway or airport serves
Kadykchan, and the nearest major city, Susuman, is 100 km away.
Public Buildings: A hospital, firehouse, and city archive are among the
decaying structures. The archive contains maps and documents, some
salvaged by visitors, while the cinema and sports hall stand as relics
of community life.
The lack of maintenance and harsh climate have
accelerated deterioration, with nature reclaiming the town through weeds
and frost damage.
Kadykchan is a niche destination for dark tourists and urban
explorers, drawn by its status as Siberia’s largest ghost town:
Abandoned Town Center:
The town square, with its Lenin bust, decaying
apartments, and overgrown streets, offers a haunting glimpse of Soviet
life frozen in time. Visitors describe it as reminiscent of Pripyat
(near Chernobyl) due to its desolate, post-apocalyptic feel.
Coal
Mines and Industrial Area:
Across the Kadykchan River, the abandoned
mines and industrial buildings, including rusted trucks with the
“Kadykchan Northeastern Coal” logo, are a testament to the town’s
industrial past.
Cultural Relics:
Items like a 1977 book
listing Russian settlements, street signs, and Cheburashka figurines in
apartments attract collectors, though removing them raises ethical
questions.
Kolyma Highway:
The Road of Bones, built by Gulag
prisoners, is a historical attraction in itself, connecting Kadykchan to
other Kolyma sites.
Natural Setting:
The Upper Kolyma
Highlands, with their stark beauty, appeal to adventurers, though the
harsh climate limits exploration. Wildlife, such as chipmunks and foxes,
is occasionally spotted.
Tourism Challenges:
Access: The
14-hour drive from Magadan, impassable roads, and lack of infrastructure
(no food, water, or sanitation facilities) require self-sufficiency.
Safety: Decaying buildings pose risks (e.g., collapsing roofs), and the
Russian government does not maintain the site for tourism. Visitors
enter at their own risk.
Tours: Companies like Koryo Tours offer
guided trips to Kadykchan, emphasizing its remoteness and historical
significance. A typical visit requires a full day, with mosquito
repellent essential in summer.
Visitor Experience: Travelers describe
Kadykchan as “melancholic” and “spooky,” with the silence and abandoned
relics evoking a sense of loss. Social media posts, like one from 2019
on X, highlight its allure, noting its 12,000 peak population and
current desolation.