Location: Tver Oblast Map
I was killed near Rzhev
In a nameless bog,
In fifth company,
On the Left flank,
In a cruel air raid
I didn’t hear explosions
And did not see the flash
Down to an abyss from a cliff
No start, no end
And in this whole world
To the end of its days -
Neither patches, nor badges
From my tunic you’ll find
Rzhev is the second largest city in the Tver region and the first city along the Volga, picturesquely located on its high banks. Its ancient history was erased by the Great Patriotic War: the Battle of Rzhev, which lasted more than a year, became one of the most terrible episodes of this war and left numerous traces in the surrounding area. For a long time, the memory of that battle was not properly immortalized, until in 2020 a large memorial to the Soviet Soldier was opened near Rzhev, which quickly became popular, and at the same time aroused interest in the city itself.
The city is divided by the Volga into two approximately equal parts.
The right bank was called the Prince-Dmitrovskaya side, and the left
bank was called the Prince-Fedorovskaya side. These names come from the
Middle Ages, when different princes owned different banks of the Volga.
Later, the parties became divided according to religious principles: the
Old Believers lived on the right bank (Rzhev was their important
center), the Nikonians lived on the left bank, and relations between
them were quite hostile. Now the parties are called Red Army and Soviet,
respectively, and there have been no special religious preferences or
hostility between them for a long time. The city center and most of the
war memorials are located on the Soviet side, but more pre-revolutionary
buildings have survived on Krasnoarmeyskaya.
Tourism Center
(information center), Krasnoarmeyskaya embankment. 28. Sun–Thu
10:00–18:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–20:00. Information, souvenirs, cafe.
For a county town, old Rzhev was quite large and reached the 20
thousand population mark even before the revolution. A few historical
buildings managed to survive the war, but basically the city is built up
with post-war Stalinist buildings, like two peas in a pod like those in
Velikiye Luki or Smolensk, only somewhat smaller in scale. The
architecture of Rzhev is unlikely to make a strong impression on you;
what is more interesting here is the military history and the monuments
associated with it.
Soviet side
1 Cathedral Mountain (Mound
of Glory). The high-rise dominant of the city on the left bank of the
Volga - it was here that the Kremlin was located, from which the city
began to be built. The wooden fortress was finally destroyed at the end
of the 17th century, and in its place in 1754 the Assumption Cathedral
with a 76-meter bell tower was erected: after it the mountain was named
Cathedral. The cathedral, of course, did not survive the Great Patriotic
War, and now only the worship cross reminds of its existence. After the
war, Cathedral Hill was completely transformed: a large-scale 25-meter
granite obelisk was installed here in honor of the liberators of the
city from the fascist invaders. The obelisk is decorated with
bas-reliefs, and at its base there are mass graves and the Eternal Flame
burns. Now Cathedral Mountain is not only a military memorial, but also
the main observation deck of Rzhev. It offers picturesque views of the
Volga and the Krasnoarmeyskaya part of the city, and if you look to the
northeast, you can see a MiG-17 aircraft on a pedestal, installed in
honor of Soviet pilots.
2 State Bank building (Ryabushinsky House),
Pushkinskaya embankment. 17. The calling card of old Rzhev is a building
with a spire and a star, from a distance reminiscent of Stalinist
architecture, but up close revealing the features of Art Nouveau: it was
built at the beginning of the 20th century for the Ryabushinsky banking
house. Famous industrialists and financiers owned a linen manufactory in
Rzhev and opened one of the first branches of their famous bank here. If
the double-headed eagle on the tower was replaced by a five-pointed star
in Soviet times, the purpose of the building remained the same - now it
houses the settlement center of the Bank of Russia. You won’t be able to
see this building, which miraculously survived the war, from the inside,
but you can admire the views of it from the opposite bank of the Volga.
3 Sovetskaya Square. The main square of Rzhev, where all city events
take place. In addition to the large-scale monument to Lenin and the
standard “City of Military Glory” stele, here you can see the
pre-revolutionary house of the Obraztsov merchants with characteristic
half-columns and carved cornices. Now this building is a police station,
and before the revolution the Rzhev Theater was located here.
4 Church of Ignatius Brianchaninov (Optina Church), st. Crane builders
(not far from the MiG-17 aircraft). A beautiful wooden church with a
refectory and a tented bell tower was erected in 2017 in honor of the
Vologda theologian Ignatius Brianchaninov. Nearby stands the log Varvara
Church (2004), similar in style, in memory of the destroyed
pre-revolutionary Church of the Great Martyr Varvara at the former All
Saints Cemetery. Against the background of the neighboring 26-meter-high
Church of Ignatius, the Varvara Church seems small and more like a
chapel.
5 Church of the New Martyrs and Confessors of Russia, st.
Lenina, 2A. ☎ +7 (48232) 2-06-51. A modern church in the Russian style
with a hipped belfry stands on the high bank of the Volga right after
the New Bridge. The temple partially covers the nondescript building of
the Soviet Rzhev Hotel and fits well into the urban landscape.
6 Revolution Square. The fork in the roads to Moscow, Tver and Seliger
is marked by one of the main squares of the city with a large square, a
fountain and a monument to revolutionaries - delegates to the
All-Russian Congress of Soviets from Rzhev, which is popularly called
“Three Heads”. Across the road from the monument are the four-story
“Kalinin Houses,” built before the war and restored from ruins after it.
7 Memorial complex “Park of Peace and Reconciliation” (Military
Cemetery), Ostashkovskoye Highway. A large memorial complex at the exit
from Rzhev towards Seliger was opened in September 2002. It consists of
three parts: a cemetery for Soviet soldiers, a German military cemetery
and a center for patriotic education. Cemeteries are annually
replenished with new burials of the remains of soldiers and officers
found by search teams in the vicinity of Rzhev, and new monuments
appear.
In the center of the Soviet burial place is the chapel of
Alexander Nevsky; it stands against the backdrop of a battlemented wall,
reminiscent in shape of the Moscow Kremlin - as a symbol of the defense
of Moscow during the Battle of Rzhev. There are separate memorials
dedicated to Kazakh soldiers and prisoners of Jewish ghettos. In a
German cemetery you can see a copy of Käthe Kollwitz’s sculpture
“Grieving Parents” - the artist’s grandson died near Rzhev. Official
delegations from Germany and single German tourists often come here. The
center for patriotic education contains personal belongings of soldiers,
samples of weapons and ammunition found during excavations - admission
is free. From the main station you can take bus number 11, which passes
through the central streets of the city.
8 ☆ Okovetsky Cathedral, st. Marata, 5. ☎ +7 (915) 731-97-56.
7:30–18:30. One of the best monuments of classicism not only in Rzhev,
but in the entire Tver region; The western portico with eight columns
especially stands out. The majestic temple was erected in 1818-1831. in
honor of a local shrine - an icon from the village of Okovtsy - on the
site of an old wooden church. Although the interior of the cathedral was
lost during Soviet times, the external appearance has been well
preserved, and restoration has been carried out in recent years.
Together with the high three-tier bell tower, the temple forms the
silhouette of the right bank of Rzhev from the observation deck of
Cathedral Mountain.
9 Pokrovskaya Old Believer Church , st.
Kalinina, 62. ☎ +7 (48232) 2-35-24. A stronghold of the Old Believer
movement in Rzhev, which historically was very strong in these parts.
The church in the eclectic style was built in 1908-1910. on the site of
the old prayer house. It is interesting that this is the only temple in
the city that was not closed during Soviet times: here, for example, the
last residents of Rzhev took refuge during the liberation by the Soviet
army. In addition to the preserved carved pre-revolutionary iconostasis,
in the temple you can see exhibitions dedicated to Old Believer culture.
10 Building of the Diocesan School for Women (Smolensk Church),
Bolshaya Spasskaya Street. 33/57. Built in the classicist style in 1865,
the building is now occupied by the administration of the Rzhev diocese
of the Russian Orthodox Church. Attached to the side of the school is
the house Smolensk Church, which was used for a long time as a civil
building, but is now being restored as a temple.
11 Commune Square.
A small triangular square near the New Bridge over the Volga was
previously called Bolshaya Spasskaya - now this name has been
transferred to the main street of the Krasnoarmeyskaya Side, which
starts right from this square. In the center there is a monument to the
hero of the War of 1812, Major General A.N., who was born in Rzhevsky
district. Seslavin. The monument is modern, erected in 2012, but the
houses to the right of it were built before the revolution: their
updated facades, together with the bust, form an interesting
architectural ensemble.
12 Partizanskaya street. The only street in
Rzhev where fragments of pre-revolutionary buildings have been
preserved, although not in the best condition. Here, on the section from
Bolshaya Spasskaya Street to the Toropetsky Tract, you can see the city
mansions of old Rzhev: from the almost ruined estate of the merchant
Nemilov (house 30) to the well-preserved house 4, which belonged to the
merchant Bersenev. In addition to the crumbling stone buildings, there
is also a strong wooden hut from 1927 with a mezzanine (house 7),
typical of pre-war Rzhev.
13 Ascension Church , Toropetsky tract,
19A. ☎ +7 (48232) 2-19-51. 8:00–17:00. Built in 1856 in the
Russian-Byzantine style at the city cemetery. After the war, the church
was in a dilapidated state for a long time, but in 1985 the temple was
restored. Nearby, on the high bank of the Volga, there is a chapel of a
similar style. In addition, there are good views of the river from here.
1 Museum of Local Lore, Krasnoarmeyskaya st. 24a and 26. ☎ +7
(48232) 2-04-59. Wed–Sat 11:00–18:00, Sun 11:00–17:00, closed Mon-Tue.
100₽. Located in two small buildings across the street. The museum
building on the embankment is an 18th-century mansion, one of the oldest
surviving buildings in Rzhev. Here you can see antiques from ancient
times to the beginning of the 20th century, but the collection was badly
damaged during the war. In the house opposite is the military-historical
part of the museum, dedicated to the events of the Great Patriotic War;
the diorama “Battle of Rzhev” occupies a central place here.
2 Rzhev
Exhibition Hall , st. Karl Marx, 53/4. ☎ +7 (48232) 2-14-33. Tue–Sun
10:00–17:00, closed Mon. from 50₽. The upper two floors of the late
19th-century estate building display contemporary painting, sculpture
and graphics; the collection is replenished annually. Various thematic
exhibitions, creative evenings and master classes are held.
3 Gracinsky Park. A small park on the site of the pre-revolutionary
Nikolsky Garden, next to Cathedral Hill, is named in honor of military
commissar V.V. Gratsinsky, who died in the struggle for socialism. The
black marble obelisk is one of the earliest Soviet monuments, opened
back in 1918. It shows traces of bullets and shells from the Great
Patriotic War. In the southern part of the park there is an alley of
heroes of the Soviet Union, participants in the Battle of Rzhev and a
ZiS-2 cannon on a pedestal.
4 Park of the Underground People.
Located on the Krasnoarmeyskaya embankment near the Old Bridge, it
offers good views of the Ryabushinsky Bank building on the opposite
bank. In addition to modern amenities, there is a pre-revolutionary
mansion from the mid-19th century - the Filatov House. Nearby is the
square of internationalist soldiers with a monument to the founder of
the Airborne Forces V.F. Margelov and a bunch of relatively modern
military equipment. There is a small beach near the park on the banks of
the Volga, but the river here is shallow and the bottom can be
dangerous.
5 City garden. A park with centuries-old trees, benches
and Soviet sculptures next to the Intercession Church. Now it looks
abandoned: unkempt territory and a lot of garbage.
6 Park “Health”.
Stretched along Mira Street, not far from the Baltic Station. Here you
can see a monument to the railway workers who participated in the war:
the SU 208-64 steam locomotive with concrete wings at the back. Nearby
are the St. Nicholas Chapel and the monument to home front workers.
During the improvement process, a skate park and modern walking areas
were created. Not far from the park there is Peace Square with an
important roundabout on the way from Moscow to Seliger - a T-34 memorial
tank is installed in the center of the ring.
7 Entertainment center “October” , Sovetskaya sq. 14. ☎ +7 (48232) 69-1-69. Mon–Thu 12:00–24:00, Fri–Sun 9:00–24:00, also on holidays. A three-hall cinema with modern equipment, a bowling center, a cafe with a bar.
By train
Rzhev is located at the intersection of two railway
lines. One of them connects Moscow with Velikiye Luki and further with
Riga, although there is currently no passenger connection with Latvia.
The other departs from the Moscow-Petersburg main line in Likhoslavl and
through Torzhok and Rzhev goes to Vyazma and further to Bryansk. None of
the lines are electrified; On the Moscow side, electrification ends at
Shakhovskaya.
Twice a day, Lastochka runs to Rzhev from Rizhsky
Station in Moscow (the journey takes 4.5 hours). This is a commuter
express, so tickets are sold without seats and at suburban ticket
offices. Along the way, it stops at major stations, including Istra,
Volokolamsk and Zubtsov.
Long-distance trains: Moscow -
Pskov/Velikie Luki and St. Petersburg - Smolensk pass through Rzhev,
both not every day. The schedule to St. Petersburg is convenient
(exactly one night on the way), but the Moscow train passes Rzhev in the
middle of the night.
Suburban trains: the most popular route for
travel is 2 times a day to Torzhok (2.5 hours) via Staritsa (1 hour 10
minutes, but then another 10 km from the station to the city). In the
eastern and western directions, trains reach only Rusanovo and
Shakhovskaya, and the train to Vyazma (3 hours) runs only twice a week.
1 Rzhev-Baltiysky (Rzhev II) , Privokzalnaya st. 12 (southern
outskirts of the city). The main station of the city where all trains
stop. The post-war building was built in 1952 on the site of a wooden
station destroyed by bombing in 1902. Although the original post-war
project was even grander, even what was eventually built became one of
the best examples of Stalinist architecture in the city: for example,
the interiors are very reminiscent of early Moscow metro stations.
Marble, stucco, hanging chandeliers, reproductions of famous paintings
are used for decoration, and large wooden sofas (a copy of the sofas of
1952) are installed in the waiting room. There is also a small modern
exhibition dedicated to the history and sights of Rzhev.
2 Rzhev-Belorussky (Rzhev I) , Leningradskoye Shosse, 1 (northern
outskirts of the city). A secondary station where the commuter train to
Torzhok and the long-distance train to St. Petersburg stop.
Historically, this was the first station in the city; before the
revolution it was called Aleksandrovsky. The beautiful wooden building
was destroyed during the war, and a new stone building was built
according to a standard design. Now trains rarely run here, there are
practically no people.
3 Platform “Rzhev Memorial”. Moscow
"Swallows" and commuter trains to Rusanovo stop. Although the platform
is located outside the city, there is a comfortable waiting room with a
cafe and toilet. The memorial is about 2 km away - a landscaped walking
path with benches and a bicycle path is being built. The distance to the
Stalin Headquarters Museum is the same, but it is located on the
opposite side from the memorial. You can get there and there by passing
buses.
By car
The M9 Moscow-Riga highway runs 1 km south of
the city; it is 225 km from Moscow. To the east, the nearest town in the
vicinity of the highway is Zubtsov (22 km), to the west is Nelidovo (110
km).
Regional highway 28K-0576 (A112) leads to Staritsa (50 km)
and Tver (125 km). Another route leads to Ostashkov (130 km).
By
bus
Rzhev has regular connections with Tver, on average every half
hour. Buses go through Staritsa, many of them then go to the far western
regions of the Tver region (most often Zubtsov or Nelidovo, there are
flights to Toropets). Travel time from Tver is a little over 2 hours.
From Moscow there are about 10 flights per day from the Khovrino
metro station; the journey takes 3-4 hours. Buses sometimes stop in
Volokolamsk, and several flights a day continue on to Ostashkov. Buses
traveling along the M9 usually do not enter the city.
Traditionally for the Tver region, all buses are divided into official
and “Autoexpress”. As of 2021, flights to Tver and neighboring regional
centers are divided approximately equally, and only Autoexpress goes to
Moscow. Unlike some other cities, the stops of these two organizations
are located nearby, which, on the one hand, is convenient, but on the
other hand, you can still confuse the buses and take the wrong one with
the risk of being dropped off in an open field in the middle of the
route (according to reviews, carriers they treat such “confused” people
even worse than free riders) - be careful.
4 Bus station,
Privokzalnaya st., 14 (next to Rzhev-Baltiysky station). ☎ +7 (48232)
2-86-15 (official bus station), +7 (952) 090-03-92 (auto express). There
is a buffet and toilet. The Autoexpress stop and ticket office are
located on the other side of the square. Please note that buses from the
Rzhev Memorial terminal, as well as some other passing ones, usually do
not call at the bus station.
5 Stop “New Market” (+7 (904) 024-03-40
(autoexpress)). Most buses stop. The coordinates of the Autoexpress stop
where there is a ticket office (in the building opposite) are indicated.
Official buses stop at the usual city stop directly next to the market.
Modern blue “Vector Next” buses of the single carrier “Verkhnevolzhye
Transport” ply around the city and suburbs with air conditioning, voice
notification and information panels showing the route and the nearest
stops. Buses run from 5:30 to 23:30 on more than two dozen routes, the
interval in the city center is 5-8 minutes, you can track the movement
in the Volga transport application.
City fare (2021): 26₽ in cash
or 22₽ with a contactless bank card (transfer to another bus using the
card will cost 13₽). In the suburbs, each kilometer of travel costs 2
rubles 59 kopecks. Most routes leave the city, so you need to touch your
bank card to the validator both at the entrance and at the exit -
otherwise the maximum fare for this route will be deducted.
There are no large shopping centers in the city, but small provincial
stores and representatives of federal economy-class grocery chains are
scattered throughout Rzhev.
As for souvenirs, you can buy Rzhev
honey gingerbread, which is sold in a beautiful souvenir package at the
Tourist Center, as well as magnets, T-shirts, and military-themed
figurines, the largest selection of which is in the tents in the parking
lot at the Rzhev Memorial.
1 Central market, Trudovaya st. 1. ☎
+7 (48232) 2-38-66. 8:00–17:00. An unusual pyramid-shaped building was
built in the late 1980s as the main food and clothing market of the
city, but it is not located in the center, but next to Revolution
Square. Currently open mainly on weekends: here you can buy fresh meat,
dairy and other products.
Federal chain establishments are not very common in the city due to
the lack of normal shopping centers. You can eat in inexpensive cafes,
of which there are quite a few on Bolshaya Spasskaya, Lenin and other
central streets. A good option might be a cafe in the Tourism Center.
Shawarma, which is found here both in cafes and in street spots, is a
popular fast food option.
Cheap
1 Cafe “Vasilki”, st. Maxim
Gorky, 81/60. ☎ +7 (952) 087-16-61. 9:00–20:00. Hot from 70₽. Cafe at
the intersection of Bolshaya Spasskaya and Gorky streets. Large
assortment: soups, meat, fish, side dishes, salads, pizza, sweets,
coffee, pancakes, shawarma. There is a separate menu for breakfast.
Popular with locals, so may not be available at peak times.
2 Cafe
“Tablespoon” , Leningradskoye Shosse, 5B. ☎ +7 (904) 356-01-68.
8:00–21:00. lunch 200-300₽. The dining room is not far from Revolution
Square, conveniently located on the way to Seliger.
Average cost
3 Restaurant “Bereg” , Krasnoarmeyskaya embankment. 28. ☎ +7 (48232)
2-12-85. 12:00–23:00. hot from 300₽. Conveniently located next to the
local history museum, there is a summer veranda overlooking the Volga.
Tourist groups are often fed here.
4 Cafe “Skazka” , st. Lenina, 4
(next to the Exhibition Hall). ☎ +7 (919) 054-91-94. 12:00–23:00.
average bill 500₽. A cafe in the city center with pleasant interiors and
soft sofas. Emphasis on American and Mexican cuisine: salads, burgers,
sweets, alcohol. There are business lunches for 190-250 rubles.
Expensive
5 Restaurant “Satsivi”, Sovetskaya Sq. 16. ☎ +7 (980)
621-69-99. Mon-Thu and Sun: 11:00–24:00, Fri–Sat 11:00–2:00. hot from
500₽. A recently opened Georgian restaurant with a pleasant interior and
good quality service.
The city turned out to be not quite ready for the increased flow of
tourists after the opening of the Rzhev Memorial: on weekends and
holidays there may not be suitable places, so it is better to book
accommodation in advance. An alternative to hotels are private
apartments, which are easy to find on booking sites.
1 Hotel
“Rzhev”, st. Lenina, 2. ☎ +7 (48232) 2-07-06. Single room with shared
facilities: from 830 ₽, standard single: from 1200 ₽, double: from 1600
₽. A large multi-storey hotel of the Soviet type, the interior has
largely been preserved from the same times, but is gradually being
improved.
2 Hotel “Sport” , st. Voloskovskaya Gorka, 2/85. ☎ +7
(48232) 6-00-03. Single: from 3000 ₽.
3 Guest house “Sokol”, st.
Karla Marksa, 39. ☎ +7 (910) 648-84-44. Double room: 3200 ₽. Modern
comfortable hotel 200 meters from the Volga embankment in a quiet
center.
In order not to die near Rzhev, it is better to be careful with metal
objects in neighboring forests and not to make fires anywhere - shells
from the Great Patriotic War may remain everywhere. The city itself is
safe during the day, but at night it is better to be careful with
drunken companies and not walk around the outskirts unless necessary.
Rzhev is traditionally referred to as the “capital” of Russian car
thieves. They mainly operate in other regions, transporting already
stolen cars to Rzhev, but just in case, be careful.
Post office 172390, Sovetskaya sq., 16. Mon–Fri 8:00–20:00, Sat 9:00–18:00, Sun 9:00–14:00. The central post office, built in the style of Soviet monumental architecture.
Historical literature dates the founding of Rzhev to the middle of
the 12th century, although in the Novgorod charter it is mentioned under
the year 1019. Chronicles refer to this city as Rzhev Volodimirova,
Rzhevka and Rzhov.
The favorable geographical location created
excellent conditions for the development of trade. But its proximity to
the western borders of Russian lands gave the city important defensive
significance. Throughout the XIII-XIV centuries, life in the fortress
city was very difficult. Whoever owned Rzhev became the owner of both a
powerful fortress and part of an important trade route. There was a
stubborn struggle for the city - throughout its existence, the Rzhev
land was constantly the subject of dispute between the Smolensk, Moscow,
Tver, Novgorod and Lithuanian princes.
Until the middle of the
12th century, Rzhev was part of the Smolensk lands, which is confirmed
by the charter of Rostislav Mstislavich, Prince of Smolensk, for 1150
(the first official mention of the city in a written source). From
Prince Rostislav Rzhev passes to his son Mstislav the Brave, and from
that to Mstislav Mstislavich Udatny. Associated with it is the chronicle
evidence of the events of 1216, where the city was named “Rzhev, the
city of Mstislavl at the top,” that is, located in the upper reaches of
the Volga. That year, the Vladimir-Suzdal prince Svyatoslav
Vsevolodovich besieged Rzhev. Mstislav Udatny, together with his brother
Vladimir Pskovsky, came to the aid of the besieged city and liberated
it. V. L. Yanin compiled a detailed description of the geography of the
Rzhev land [5], which during this period belonged to the descendants of
Mstislav the Brave and was part of the Toropets principality.
From the middle of the 13th century, the Rzhev Principality was part of
the possession of the Moscow prince among the appanage cities. The Tver
and Novgorod princes, whose possessions approached directly to Rzhev,
more than once tried to take it away from Moscow. In the 14th century, a
struggle for the city broke out between Moscow and Lithuania, and it
changed hands several times. At the beginning of the 15th century,
Vasily I erected new fortifications in the city. Subsequently, Rzhev
changed owners many times, being a good “bargaining chip” in the
political games of the princes, and only in 1521 this long-suffering
city finally went to the Grand Duke of Moscow.
For a long time,
Prince Vladimir, who was buried with his wife Agrippina in the
Assumption Cathedral, was revered as the patron saint of the city of
Rzhev. At the beginning of the 20th century, every resident of the city
could tell the legend about the defender of Rzhev, Prince Vladimir:
“Every time the enemies approached the fortress walls, a silent
warrior-Prince Vladimir appeared on the steep Volga bank on a white
horse. And every time he waved his hand, the enemies fled from the city.
Every night the prince walked around his city on patrol, and every
evening the townspeople placed a new pair of boots at the wall. The
prince wore out a lot of new boots, but one day the townspeople were too
lazy or forgot to put on new princely boots... From then on, the prince
became angry with his subjects and left the city.”
In the 18th
century, local veneration was discontinued by order of the church
authorities, in particular due to the fact that local tradition did not
preserve any information about the prince. Vladimir. But as academician
E.E. Golubinsky showed, we are talking about Vladimir Mstislavich
Pskovsky. Church-wide veneration of St. the faithful Prince Vladimir and
Princess Agrippina was established in the 70s of the 20th century.
Moscow attached great importance to Rzhev as a fortress guarding its
western borders from the Polish-Lithuanian invasion. During the Time of
Troubles, there were impostors, Poles, and Swedes in Rzhev. The
residents of Rzhev supported the first impostor; they “sank into the
shadow of False Dmitry,” as can be seen from the chronicle. They waged
an active struggle with Lisovsky's Poles. The city, besieged by the
Poles under the command of boyar Fyodor Sheremetev, gave a worthy rebuff
to the enemies, although it itself suffered greatly and many of its
defenders died. With the expulsion of the Poles, the city begins to
recover. The borders of Rus' are moving away from Rzhev, but for several
more decades it continues to remain a reliable rear base and fortress.
Under the first Romanovs, a large garrison remained in the Rzhev
fortress; the city itself remained a rallying point for noble militia
and streltsy regiments during military operations.
The economic
importance of Rzhev is also increasing. The flow of convoys with goods
along the bolshakas (high roads) located radially from the city and
caravans of ships along the Volga is increasing every year. The most
important trade in Rzhev becomes the carriage driver, and the coachman
becomes one of the main figures in the economic life of Rzhev. More and
more inns are being built in the city. By the end of the 17th century,
stone buildings began to be erected on the trade side, and new marinas
and warehouses were erected on the banks of the Volga. By the beginning
of the 18th century, Rzhev became one of the significant commercial and
industrial centers of the Russian Empire.
According to the
administrative division during the 18th century, Rzhev was first
assigned to the Ingermanland province, then became a city of the Tver
province of the Novgorod province, and in 1775 - a district city of the
Tver governorship. By the middle of the century, 25 plants and factories
operated here; oil mills, flax processing, sawmills, tanneries, and
brick factories operated on the basis of local raw materials. A lot of
working tools, wood and leather were supplied annually for the
construction of St. Petersburg; sailing fabric, ropes and ropes were
woven here for the fleet. Bread and other food products were delivered
from the western provinces and Ukraine to Rzhev, and from Rzhev they
went to the new capital. During the summer, more than 100 barges, and in
the winter, up to seven thousand convoys transported goods to other
cities of Russia. On the trade square of Rzhev, where there was a
gostiny yard with 105 stone benches, two fairs were held annually - the
National Team and the Petrovskaya. Up to 8 thousand people came to the
city from the surrounding villages and hamlets to work at numerous piers
and enterprises as loaders, flax and hemp haulers, barge haulers and
pilots.
Economic changes did not in any way affect the lifestyle
of the townspeople. On the contrary, innovations in everyday life
associated with the reforms of Peter I were met with disapproval in
Rzhev. “Petrov’s deeds are still the deeds of the Antichrist,” said the
Old Believers merchants, of whom there were many in the city. Everything
that violated the old order caused violent opposition; even the city
authorities’ new plan for improvement and expansion of streets led to a
riot. In Rzhev, divided by a river into two parts, two religious centers
have historically developed since the time of the church schism. On the
right, Prince-Dmitrov, side, the Old Believers merchants “ruled”. On the
left, Prince-Fedorovskaya, there are Nikonians, supporters of Nikon. The
rivalry between them was extremely hostile, and conversations often
included “our side” or “that side.” Rzhev could be called an Old
Believers city: according to data on the spread of Old Believers in the
Tver province in the 18th-19th centuries, their “main local center was
the city of Rzhev, where out of the total number of Old Believers in the
province 7775 people, 6416 lived.” The influential merchant class with
its capital, the majority of whom were Old Believers, secured great
weight and economic dominance in the city.
In the 1870s, Rzhev
among the cities of the Tver province was the most significant trading
point after Tver itself; it was home to over 30,000 inhabitants. With
the construction of railways, the commercial importance of the city
fell, and the previously highly developed flax weaving and hemp spinning
industries declined. In 1890, the city had 21,397 inhabitants, among
whom more than 50% were Old Believers (mostly of the priestless
persuasion). In 1896 there were 27 factories and factories. The main
items of trade were bread, flax and hemp.
Rzhev was one of the
first cities where postal service appeared: since 1866, it had its own
zemstvo post office, Rzhev envelopes and stamps were issued. The mail
was horse-drawn and left the city on Thursdays and Sundays at a speed of
40 versts per day. For many years, Rzhev was called the “pigeon city.”
There were many pigeon coops and pigeons in the city. As a result of
crossing and selection, breeds of pigeons were developed that were
called “Rzhev”: Rzhev Ribbon Tumbler, Rzhev Seagull.
On October
29 (November 11), 1917, in Rzhev, the Council of Workers' Deputies
created the Military Revolutionary Committee and proclaimed the
establishment of Soviet power in the city (established in mid-December).
The general plan and layout diagram of Rzhev was developed in 1927 by
the architect-urban planner A.P. Ivanitsky.
Rzhev is a common Russian town in the Central part of Russia just few hundred kilometers from Moscow. Historians don't know the etymology of its name. Its origin is also unknown. All we know that the city already existed in the 13th century. It quietly grew and lived its life. In the 19th century several factories were constructed that produced clothes and textile. Rzhev probably would not be worth mentioning if it wasn't for the events that happened here during World War II.
This is the view of Rzhev in the early 20th century. Much of it was destroyed during the course of the Great Patriotic War. Many heard about Battle of Stalingrad or Battle of Berlin, but few have heard about a battle that was fought around Rzhev for over a year. High levels of losses (at least 400,000 dead) and several devastating defeats made this city an uncomfortable page in the history of the war. Even if it was mentioned in the official Soviet records, it was mostly referred as a series of minor fire fights without much strategic value. Only recently historical records began to open up and Rzhev- Vyazma Strategic Offensive Operation became known as a Battle of Rzhev. Soldiers who lived through this carnage called it simply "Rzhev meat grinder" (Ржевская Мясорубка).
Battle of Rzhev started in January of 1942. After the defeat of German forces near Moscow in December of 1941, Stalin hoped to take out Wehrmacht with a single blow. The only major obstacle was the Rzhev salient. The city had a good fortifications system, but it was mostly abandoned when Red Army was re- grouping near Soviet capital. Now Russian army had to retake a well fortified town surrounded by swamps, bogs, virgin forests and numerous rivers and lakes. General Mikhail Grigoryevich Efremov (Yefromov) pictured on the right was chosen to lead 33rd Army into German defenses. General asked for several weeks to prepare for the attack, gather ammunition and fill the ranks of the units that suffered heavy casualties during defense of Moscow just few weeks prior. But Stalin made his decision and no one dared to compete with it.
Red Army quickly breached enemy defenses, but as it was moving inside the territory Germans counter attacked. The 33rd Army was surrendered. Efremov repeatedly asked for reinforcements. Most of units were dangerously low on ammunition. Zhukov who commanded the front refused to give any help. Efremov a desperate and a suicidal move. He ignored his superior and asked Stalin directly. Stalin didn't offer any help and sent a small biplane PO-2 (also known as U-2) to get the general out. General refused to leave his men and instead gave all the flags of army divisions to the pilot so they wouldn't be captured by the German troops. Efremov and his men tried a desperate break out of encirclement. Germans made a final attack. Only few groups managed to return back to the Russian forces. General Efremov committed suicide to avoid becoming a prisoner of war. First attempt to break through the German line have failed.
The body of General Efremov was found by the Germans and delivered to the headquarters. German officer lined up his men on one side of the body, and several Russian POWs on the other. Then he told his men: "Fight for Germany as he fought for Russia". Germans buried 45 years old general in a village of Slobodka. After the war the body was excavated and reburied. When the coffin was opened they found that the golden watch of the general remained in place out of respect for the deceased.
A new attempt to take Rzhev was undertaken later the same year. This time general Ivan I. Maslenikov (pictured left) led his 39th army against German defenses. It went too fast and too deep before the Wehrmacht simply did not encircle it. Stalin sent another plane to rescue his general and Maslenikov did not want to repeat the fate of Efremov. He passed his command to general Ivan A. Bogdanov (pictured right) and left his men. Bogdanov managed to take remaining 10,000 troops out of the encirclement, but just few miles from the friendly ground he was wounded and subsequently died.
Changing strategic situation and defeat of the Wehrmacht in Stalingrad made Rzhev defenses too much of the burden for the German forces. Soldiers were ordered to leave the city and retreat. In a strange last move Hitler asked to carry a phone line to the bridge across Volga river that was intended to be blown up by the retreating forces. Apparantly he wanted to hear in person the destruction of this important crossing point. The old picture of the city on the right is the picture of that bridge. In reality the river was covered in ice so Russian soldiers didn't even intend to cross into city across the bridge. Rzhev was finally retaken on March 3rd of 1943. Only 300 residents that remained in the city were closed in the Old Believers church of Pokrovskaya (Protection). The grounds of the church were mined and booby trapped by the retreating Germans. It took several hours before Russian engineers managed to free the civilians that became prisoners stuck there for hours.
There is no doubt that Rzhev and its surroundings has the highest concentration of remains from the World War II. There is virtually not a single hectare of land that doesn't have human bones, rifles, helmets and many other remains. Swamps and bogs around the city swallowed numerous Soviet and German tanks who were foolish enough to get there. You don't even need a metal detector to find mines, remains of cars and other memorabilia from the time period. Lack of any regulations allowed many people to come and search for firearms, bullets, medals and in some case whole tanks. Technically finders are keepers. With this said there has to be a warning. If you ever go to the country side around Rzhev make sure that you start your fire in a safe place. There have several episodes when young people who came for archeological digs were actually killed by old ammunition after they started a fire over some old forgotten storage.
In the past four years along over 18,000 bodies of soldiers were discovered and reburied with all military honours.
Rzhev is the first city downstream on the Volga (200 km from the
source), located in the south of the Tver region, 117 km from
Tver. The Volga divides the city into two historical districts -
the Prince-Fedorovskaya (Soviet) and Prince-Dmitrievskaya
(Krasnoarmeiskaya) sides. Three more rivers flow through the
city: Kholynka, Serebryanka and Bolshaya Locha.
Rzhev is
a major transport hub: the Moscow-Riga and Torzhok-Vyazma
railways intersect here, and the M9 Baltic highway runs 1 km
from the southern border of the city.