Torzhok, Russia

Torzhok is a city of Russian classicism and one of the most interesting corners of Central Russia. It is located on the Tvertsa River, 60 km northwest of Tver. In terms of its content and significance, this is the same Suzdal, only from a different era and not at all spoiled by tourists, which is why magnificent architecture is combined here with emptiness and phenomenal devastation. However, it is precisely this devastation that gives the city its special charm: in few places you will find so many ancient houses standing side by side, their crumbling columns with shabby facades reminding of both the former greatness and the inexorability of time. And this charm is complemented by the picturesque hills of the banks of the Tvertsa with their lush wild thickets. In the vicinity of the city there are several noble estates, poetic in their neglect; the best of them had a hand in a prominent representative of the Russian Enlightenment, architect N.A. Lviv.

Torzhok was first mentioned in chronicles in 1139 as New Torg, although the local Boris and Gleb Monastery was founded a century earlier, and the oldest wooden pavement in the local Kremlin dates back to the turn of the 10th-11th centuries. The city changed its name several times and was also known as Torg and Torzhets. It is interesting that local residents still call themselves Novotors after the very first name of Torzhok. However, the Torzhkovtsy katoikonim, which is more understandable to newcomers, is also in use.

In 1238, the city was burned by the Mongols, but then it was rebuilt. At that time, Torzhok was located on the only waterway from the rest of Rus' to Novgorod, due to which it could control the grain flows going there. In this capacity, Torzhok, founded by the Novgorodians and part of the Novgorod Republic, was especially attractive to various kinds of princes and was repeatedly raided. Actually, the first chronicle mention is precisely due to the fact that the city was taken by the troops of Yuri Dolgoruky; Subsequently, the Moscow and Tver princes also distinguished themselves. In 1478, Torzhok, along with the entire Novgorod principality, was annexed to Moscow. The city was destroyed twice during the Time of Troubles, but did not lose its commercial significance.

When the provinces were formed, Torzhok became a district center and fell into St. Petersburg, then from 1727 into the newly formed Novgorod province, and after Catherine’s administrative reform of 1775, for the first time it found itself subordinate to neighboring Tver. The heyday of the city in the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries was due to the convenient location of Torzhok on the road from St. Petersburg to Moscow - both on the Vyshnevolotsk river route from Tvertsa to Tsna, and on the postal route that preceded the current federal highway M10. However, in 1851, the railway from St. Petersburg to Moscow, laid almost along a line, bypassed Torzhok, after which the development of the city slowed down. In Soviet times, it became a regional center (first of the Moscow and then of the Tver/Kalinin regions) and acquired industry, including a carriage-building plant that produced, for example, the ET2, one of the classic models of Russian electric trains. The factories were built on the outskirts, so they did not affect the historical center, which seemed to be stuck somewhere in the 19th century and since then has simply been quietly deteriorating, which makes it look even more historical. Torzhok has the status of an Urban Planning Monument and, not without reason, claims to be a tourist center.

The architectural appearance of Torzhok was determined by two Lvovs. The famous Nikolai Aleksandrovich Lvov (1753-1803), a native of Novotorzhsky district, stood at the origins of classicism in the Tver province, where he built a lot of interesting things, determining the development of local architecture for years to come. He was one of the ideologists of Russian Palladianism, a movement borrowed from Italy that introduced ancient forms into modern buildings. Lviv was especially good at rotundas, symmetrical facades and even colonnades that “penetrated” buildings. In Torzhok, at least the cathedral of the Boris and Gleb Monastery and the rotunda chapel belong to his authorship. The lesser-known Ivan Fedorovich Lvov (1797–after 1864) held the position of provincial architect and created countless high-quality empire-style buildings throughout the district. In Torzhok he designed a travel palace and at least two churches.

The Tvertsa River divides the city into two almost equal parts: the western on the high right bank and the eastern on the low left. The banks are connected by three bridges, two of which are in the center. The main attractions are located near the river, stretching along it for about three kilometers. You need to set aside at least half a day to explore Torzhok, and you can drive around the surrounding area even with a car all day - there are many interesting churches and estates, including those built by N.A. Lvov masterpieces.



Right bank of Tvertsa

1  Savior Transfiguration Cathedral (1822)  , st. Mednikovykh, 5 / Novgorodskaya embankment. 1. ☎ +7 904 350-56-79. The symbol of the city is a huge cathedral in the Empire style, built in 1812-1822. presumably based on the design of Karl Rossi by his student Ivan Moksheev. A wooden church has stood on this site since the founding of the Novotorzhsky Kremlin; it burned down in 1238 during the Mongol invasion and was rebuilt in stone in 1364. Novgorod merchants sponsored the construction, and it is believed that the church was similar to those in Novgorod, but no images of it have survived, but we know about the tragedy of 1372, when many townspeople suffocated in the smoke, hiding inside from the army of Mikhail Tverskoy. By the beginning of the 19th century, the church had fallen into disrepair and was dismantled, and the current cathedral was built in its place. A little later, in 1842, the single-domed Church of the Entry into Jerusalem, designed by I.F., was erected next to it. Lvov. It was intended for winter services and therefore has a more modest size.
2  Boris and Gleb Monastery. One of the oldest monasteries in the country has not looked like one for a long time, but in appearance it is very unusual and therefore recognizable, replacing Torzhok the Kremlin, of which only the ramparts located nearby have been preserved. The monastery was founded in 1038 by Ephraim of Novotorzh, who built the first stone church here - the Boris and Gleb Cathedral in memory of Saints Boris and Gleb, whose murder became a personal tragedy for him, since Ephraim's brother, George, died at the same time as Prince Boris. The monastery burned several times in internecine wars; in 1237 it suffered from the Mongol-Tatars, then it was ravaged by the Lithuanians. The revival of the monastery took place in the second half of the 18th century. In 1785-1796, according to the project of N.A. In Lvov, a new Boris and Gleb Cathedral was erected in the style of classicism; in 1804, a gate bell tower appeared, the design of which is also attributed to Lvov. The oldest surviving building of the monastery is the Vvedenskaya Church with a hipped bell tower (1620), and the most beautiful is the Candle or Rose Tower (1870s). There is now an observation deck on the Candle Tower, which allows you to admire the picturesque surroundings for 100 rubles.
3  St. Michael the Archangel Church (Blagoveshchenskaya) , Respublikansky lane. 1. Once upon a time, at the fork in the roads to Staritsa and Rzhev, there were two wooden churches - the Annunciation and the Archangel Michael. During the Time of Troubles, both of them were destroyed, then rebuilt, in 1742 they were lost in a fire, in 1758 they were restored as one temple, then rebuilt again - now in the Russian-Byzantine style. The bell tower was erected in 1887. The church acquired particular fame in the 1930s, when the relics of Ephraim and Arkady of Novotorzh, transferred here from the Boris and Gleb Monastery, were kept there for several years. Later the relics were lost, but the church remained the only one functioning in the city until 1995. The iconostasis, which survived the Soviet era, is considered one of the richest in the Tver region.
4  Wooden Old Ascension Tikhvin Church , Gruzinskaya st. 29. 10:30–18:00. For free. The wooden church dates back to 1653, when the foundation of the building appeared in the form of a log house with a gable roof. In 1717, the church was rebuilt, and this date is now considered the year of its “birth”: it is believed that it was then that the church acquired its unique silhouette of three octagons stacked on top of each other. Inside, the upper tiers of the building have preserved 18th-century paintings made with glue paints; the painting of the lower tiers is younger (19th century). The church is open to visitors only in summer.
5  Church of St. George the Victorious, st. Civil, 2-4. In 1692, on the site of a wooden church, first mentioned in 1625, a stone one was built with two altars - the upper one of St. George the Victorious and the lower one of Sergius of Radonezh. At the beginning of the 19th century it was rebuilt, and in 1850 a gilded iconostasis was installed in the temple. Remains of paintings from the same time have also been preserved.
6  Magistrate, pl. January 9, 1. One of the most interesting civil buildings in Torzhok was built in 1768 in the Baroque style. The house became the first city building built according to the master plan. According to documents from the 1770s-1780s, the estate belonged to the Novotorzh merchant Ivan Yakovlevich Kutafyev, a large tax farmer who made a fortune from collecting government duties, including drinking taxes. This would not have been enough to build a mansion in the city center, but Kutafiev was helped by his relationship with the Morozov clan of merchants. In 1770, Kutafiev married Efimiya Chernysheva - against the will of the church, which banned this marriage due to the close relationship of the bride and groom. And soon after his marriage, Kutafiev went bankrupt, and even ended up on trial. The estate was put under the hammer, and after a ten-year trial, Kutafiev died in prison. Already in 1783, the magistrate, as well as verbal and orphan courts, were located in the former house of Kutafiev; after the revolution, the house was occupied by the city government and the Duma. In 1941, the house was damaged by bombing, but was restored after the war.
7  Trading rows, st. Trading rows, 1-4. In Torzhok, five buildings of shopping arcades, built in the mid-19th century in the style of late classicism, have been preserved; Local architect Plokhov took part in their construction. Some of the buildings of the complex were destroyed during the Great Patriotic War and dismantled; a park is now laid out in their place.
8  Krestovozdvizhenskaya chapel-rotunda, pl. January 9, 4. A spectacular rotunda with 12 columns stands in the historical place around which Torzhok grew. Here, at the confluence of the Zdorovets stream into Tvertsa, in the 12th century there was a pier for ships bringing Russian and overseas goods to the city, and visiting merchants gathered around the pier in almost thousands. The author of the rotunda is considered to be N.A. Lvov (1753-1804), whose monument was erected next door. However, during Lvov there was an old stone chapel on this site. The rotunda was built in 1814 after the death of the architect. In 1906, an altar and a bell tower were added to it, turning it into a church, but during the restoration of the 1970s, everything was returned to its previous appearance.

✦  Lunacharsky Street. The former Klimentovskaya Street was named after the Church of Clement, Pope of Rome, standing on it. The street goes north from the central square of Ananyin and is incredibly beautiful with its solid classicist buildings of the late 18th - early 19th centuries. Here you can walk almost half a kilometer without encountering a single building even from the beginning of the 20th century. It is this cityscape that most people who have visited Torzhok remember.
9  Church of Clement, Pope of Rome, st. Lunacharsky, 12. The existing stone church was erected in 1685 at the expense of the local merchant Mikhail Mishurin. In 1835, the building was rebuilt in the classicist style, which can be seen in the facades with four-column porticoes and triangular pediments. And the first stone church on this site was mentioned in 1372 on the occasion of the defeat of Torzhok by Prince Mikhail Tversky. Before the revolution, the church was distinguished by its rich decoration, but in 1931 it was closed, after which it became a hostel and an atelier. Now the church is not functioning and needs restoration.
10  House of Magnetizer (Dolgorukov’s Mansion), Novgorodskaya embankment. 3. A noticeable mansion on the Novgorod embankment was built at the end of the 18th century, and the gate and barn appeared under the new owner, Prince A.V. Dolgoruky, and the magnetizer is exactly him. The prince was born in Moscow; in 1833, against the will of his parents, he married the daughter of the Novotorzh merchant A.Ya. Glazunova-Molchanova. However, a year later the wife left the prince, leaving behind a one-month-old daughter. In 1842, the prince entered into a second marriage, which was later declared invalid, since the first wife was alive, although the prince claimed that in 1839 he received news of her death. The prince himself was a very educated man, and received the nickname “magnetizer” for his books dedicated to “mesmerism”: he was one of the first in Russia to use psychotherapy and hypnosis to treat patients, having learned this in France. Now the magnetizer’s house is part of the All-Russian Historical and Ethnographic Museum, where lectures and master classes are held.
11  Church of St. John the Evangelist, st. Volodarsky (3 km from the center). The cemetery church on the outskirts of Torzhok was built in the Baroque style in 1782; it was erected on the site of a monastery that was burned in 1606. Many famous people are buried at the Ioanno-Theologian Cemetery, among whom, for example, P.I. Wulf is a friend of A.S. Pushkin. The ancestral tombs of Novotorzh merchants have also been preserved here. From 1939 to 1993 the church was closed.
How to get there: from the city center (for example, from the Transfiguration Cathedral) there are buses 13 and 310, the last stop is the railway station.


Left bank of Tvertsa

12  Tveretskaya embankment. The central part of the embankment serves as a ceremonial corner of the city, so the houses here have been well restored, and the shore has been landscaped using advanced tiling technologies. On sunny afternoons, good lighting turns the view of merchant mansions into a postcard-worthy view. Actually, this view only became like this in the late 1990s, when the central part of the embankment underwent a major restructuring: it was then that pseudo-classicist mansions were erected on the site of houses No. 26-29. At the same time, the rest of the houses in the central part of the embankment were restored, and now here you can admire the buildings of the 19th century, among which is the house of the merchant Parichka, lined with a “boar” (No. 22), included in the publication of the “World History of Architecture” as a bright representative of provincial modernism . The embankment itself was inhabited already in the 12th century, and during archaeological excavations almost two dozen birch bark letters were found on it.
13  Ilyinskaya Church, st. Krasnaya Gora, 9. The Empire style church with a free-standing bell tower was built in 1818-1822 on the site of an older one. It stands on Krasnaya Gorka and serves as the architectural dominant of the Zatveretskaya side, clearly visible from different points of the city. In the upper part there is a summer church dedicated to Elijah the Prophet, and in the lower part there is a winter church of Paraskeva Pyatnitsa. In 1929, the temple was closed; the church drum and bell tower spire were destroyed during the war. In the 1970s, the church was restored, and in the 2000s it was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church.
14  Travel Palace, st. Stepan Razin, 24. The stone palace was built by decree of Empress Catherine II in 1776 on the site of a wooden palace; the building is made in the style of early classicism. In 1827, the city converted the palace into a hospital, but by 1830 it found another use, placing the headquarters of the Vladimir Uhlan Regiment in it. In the middle of the 19th century, the palace was rebuilt according to the design of I.F. Lvov, after which they opened a three-year women's school in the building, which over time turned first into a women's gymnasium, and then into a Soviet school. Now the building is little different from ruins, but this does not prevent it from being under the supervision of private security, which makes it inaccessible to the general public.
15  Pozharskikh Hotel building, st. Dzerzhinsky, 48. The hotel owes its fame to A.S. Pushkin and Daria Evdokimovna Pozharskaya. Pushkin, when passing through Torzhok, often stayed at the hotel: however, at that time it was a different building, built in the mid-18th century by coachman Vasily Pozharsky and which became a hotel under his descendant Evdokim Dmitrievich. Evdokim Pozharsky bequeathed his hotel to his daughter Daria, who knew how to please any guest. On her initiative, in 1840 the old building was dismantled and a more spacious one was built in its place. For the new hotel, the owner purchased expensive furniture and utensils, and most of all the hotel became famous for its “Pozharsky” cutlets and famous guests. The golden days ended in 1854, when, after the death of Daria Evdokimovna, all the property went under the hammer, and the railway that passed by Torzhok did not contribute to the growth in the number of guests. The new owner rented out the building as a merchant's club, preserving the tavern and several rooms for guests. In 1917, the building was adapted for the councils of workers' and soldiers' deputies, and then its fate completely went downhill. Only in the 1990s did the hotel come under restoration, but in July 2002 it almost completely burned down. It was restored again only in the 2010s. Now it is part of the city museum; the building hosts traveling exhibitions, concerts, and performances.
16  Resurrection Monastery, st. Stepana Razin, 32, Red Town. The monastery appeared in the 16th century, but, as in Borisoglebsky, only buildings from the 18th-19th centuries have reached us. The monastery has seen better times; today it can hardly be called spectacular, although individual churches are still expressive. The Resurrection Cathedral (1800) is attached to an earlier bell tower (1766), and the most striking building of the monastery is the rotunda church of the Beheading of John the Baptist, built in 1840 according to the design of I.F. Lvov. Only fragments of the fence from the 1780s have survived.
17  Church of the Exaltation of the Cross, Stepan Razin Street, 32. The awkward-looking structure dates back to at least the 17th century, when, according to the Scribe Book of Torzhok for 1625, a wooden church stood on this site. In 1750, due to its disrepair, it was dismantled, and instead a stone church was built with a bell tower and two chapels - a warm one and a cold one. During the reconstruction of the 1850s, the church was surrounded by a stone fence with a wrought-iron lattice, now lost. In 1929, the temple was closed and they tried to give it a less religious appearance, depriving it of the bell tower and decorative elements - this is how it remains to this day.
18  St. Nicholas Church, Stepan Razin Street, 74. The one-domed church in the classicist style was built in 1784 and expanded with the addition of a new chapel in the mid-19th century. As is customary in Torzhok, some churches were here before; one of them was called “the Church of Nicholas on the rapids” because of its proximity to the rapids of Tvertsa. In the 1930s, St. Nicholas Church was closed, but now it is operating again. From the church, in the gaps between the houses, good views of the Boris and Gleb Monastery unexpectedly open up.


Things to do

All-Russian Historical and Ethnographic Museum (VIEM). 10:00–18:00 except Mon; Every last Thursday of the month is a sanitary day. Several museum sites in Torzhok are united under this general and rather pretentious name:

1  Novotorzhsky Kremlin , Staritskaya st. 1. An open-air museum with a small pseudo-historical exhibition. The only thing that has been preserved here from the ancient Kremlin is the embankment. Everything else, including the wooden fence with a passing tower and the siege equipment with other decorations, was, at best, recreated according to ancient drawings.
2  House of Russia , st. Lunacharsky, 3. First of all, this is a merchant mansion, where the writer N.A. visited. Ostrovsky. Today, the building is used for temporary exhibitions and lectures for schoolchildren.
3  Museum Rows, pl. January 9, 2. Three permanent exhibitions dedicated to the history of Torzhok are located in one of the buildings of the Trade Rows.
4  Hospital House, Staritskaya st. 7. In one of the buildings of the Boris and Gleb Monastery there are three more permanent exhibitions. The first is dedicated to the history of the monastery, the second - to the local celebrity, architect N.A. Lvov, and the third, using the example of icons of the 19th-20th centuries, talks about the features of the iconographic language.
5  Ethnographic Center , st. Lunacharsky, 21. The permanent exhibition dedicated to peasant life is housed in a former merchant mansion of the first half of the 19th century. On church and other old holidays, festivities and revived ancient rituals are held in the courtyard of the mansion.
6  Museum of A. S. Pushkin , st. Dzerzhinsky, 71. ☎ +8 (48251) 9-20-60. Wed–Sat 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. 100 ₽. Opened in 1972, the museum occupies a noble mansion from the late 18th century that belonged to the Olenin family. The name of the Olenins is associated with A.S. Pushkin: in his youth the poet visited the literary salon of A.N. Venison in St. Petersburg. The estate was built on the site of the old Travel Palace, where Catherine II stayed several times. Putting all this together, the museum’s exhibition is dedicated to travel along the St. Petersburg-Moscow highway, and the most valuable exhibits here are copies of Pushkin’s autographs and letters telling about the role of travel in the poet’s life. At the museum there is a park overlooking the bank of the Tvertsa River, from where good views of the city open up.
7  Museum “Torzhok Gold Seamstresses”, Kalininskoye Shosse, 12. ✉ ☎ +7 (48251) 9-66-10. Mon–Fri 9:00–18:00, Sat 9:00–17:00. Museum at the Torzhok gold embroidery factory. Local gold embroidery - hand embroidery with metal gilded and silver threads - has been known since the 10th century, exists to this day and is actively developing: along with souvenir products, army insignia are made here and other government orders are fulfilled. The museum contains the best examples of ancient and modern embroidery; samples can be bought in a special store.
8  Helicopter Museum, st. Engels. ☎ +7 (48251) 5-58-26. If you find yourself in Torzhok on a fine summer day, be sure to pay attention to the helicopters circling over the city. They belong to the Army Aviation Flight Training Center, and the center has a museum displaying more than a dozen combat vehicles, starting with the Mi-1 helicopter. Viewing of the exhibition is possible only as part of a guided tour, which can be signed up for on the museum’s website. Children under 7th grade are not allowed into the museum.


How to get there

By train
Torzhok is located a little away from the Moscow-St. Petersburg highway, on the local line in the direction of Rzhev. The easiest way to get from Moscow is by approved Lastochka with a convenient transfer in Tver. Tickets for the Lastochka from Tver to Torzhok can be immediately purchased in Moscow at the Leningradsky station or in the Russian Railways Passengers application; similarly, tickets from Tver to Moscow are sold at the Torzhok station. This will allow you, upon arrival in Tver, without crossing the turnstiles, to simply move to another platform and after 10-40 minutes leave in the desired direction.

You can also travel from St. Petersburg with a transfer to Tver. In addition, there is a long-distance train from St. Petersburg to Smolensk (3 times a week, 6 times a week in summer), arriving in Torzhok at 4 am.

There are 7 trains a day from Tver to Torzhok: these are the already mentioned Swallows and regular electric trains, travel time: 1-1.5 hours. There is also a commuter train from Rzhev via Staritsa twice a day, the journey takes 2.5 hours . There is no passenger traffic towards Kuvshinovo and Ostashkov.

1  Railway station, Vokzalnaya st. (on the eastern outskirts of the city). A typical station built in 1960 with a buffet and a waiting room. Near the station building, in the parking lot there are kiosks with food and essential goods. You can walk 1.5 km to the center or take a taxi: taxi drivers gather at the Lastochka station at the station; travel around the city costs no more than 100-120 rubles. City buses do not go to the station, and commuter buses passing through the center occur no more than a couple of times a day.

By car
The “old” highway between Moscow and St. Petersburg (M10 “Russia”) runs along the eastern outskirts of Torzhok. The new toll highway M11 runs further east, intersecting with the old highway 25-30 km from the city. To Moscow 230 km, to St. Petersburg 470 km, to Tver 65 km towards Moscow, to Vyshny Volochyok - 70 km towards St. Petersburg.

Local roads connect Torzhok with Ostashkov (130 km) and Staritsa (110 km; unlike the railway, the road does not go quite in a straight line).

By bus
From Tver, buses depart approximately once every 1-1.5 hours, the journey is about the same (there are both large buses of the Upper Volga Region Transport and “Autoexpress” minibuses). Some of them go further to Vyshny Volochyok (1 hour), Ostashkov (1.5-2.5 hours) or other cities in the north and west of the region. If you are coming from Ostashkov or Volochok by minibus, be sure to warn the driver that you need to get off in Torzhok, otherwise he may not stop anywhere in the city or may not enter it at all. There are no direct buses to Staritsa, but you can try to travel with a transfer to Bernovo (look for a bus in Torzhok to Voropuni, 1-2 times a day).

Long-distance buses from Moscow and St. Petersburg pass Torzhok along the bypass.

2  Stop on Ilyinskaya Square, st. Krasnaya Gora, 26. The main stop of the city, where commuter and city buses arrive. There is no bus station in Torzhok now.


Transport around the city

Public transport is represented by buses and minibuses; traffic patterns and schedules are available on the city administration website. Once you've reached the center, you probably won't need public transport to see the main attractions. For long trips, you can order a taxi, including through the Yandex application.



The exhibition hall of the Torzhok Gold Seamstresses museum is also a company store. Along with goods from the local factory, you can purchase products from other parts of Russia (Gzhel, Orenburg down scarves, Zlatoust knives, etc.)

1  Market, st. Volodarsky. 8:00–16:00. An ordinary small market in an average regional center: you can buy fresh meat and vegetables.
2  Supermarket “Magnit”, st. Trading Rows, 1. 8:00–22:00. The most convenient option in the city center.



The pride of Torzhok is Pozharsky cutlets fried in breadcrumbs, invented by local innkeeper Evgraf Pozharsky. They were highly appreciated by Pushkin, who was passing through the city (At your leisure, dine // at Pozharsky’s in Torzhok, // Try fried cutlets // And go light), although cutlets owe their popularity in Russian cuisine to Nicholas I, who also dined in Torzhok and either ordered then cook these cutlets at court, or his retinue themselves noticed the dish the emperor liked. It’s hard to say what cutlets were like before, but the current Novotorzh recipe differs little from the Soviet mass standard, so don’t expect anything special from them.

Another gastronomic brand of the city is the recently invented Novotorzhskaya pastila. The creators claim that this recipe for berry marshmallows rolled into small rolls existed in the city before the revolution. The marshmallow looks very impressive and is gradually penetrating into city cafes, although it is expensive, much more expensive than the usual Belyovsky one.

1  Cafe “Nadezhda”, st. Lunacharsky 29. 8:00–18:00. Average check: 200-250 rub. Regular diner, good reviews.
2  Monastery refectory, Staritskaya st. 9A. 8:00–18:00, Fri and Sat: until 19:00. Average check: 200-300 rubles. A good option for a quick and cheap lunch if you are walking around the Boris and Gleb Monastery. In addition, the refectory is located in a historical building, so you can at the same time examine it from the inside. They only accept cash.
3  Dining room No. 1, Tveretskaya embankment, 22 (In the center near the pedestrian bridge in a modern building). 9:30–17:00. This is not a branch of the chain of the same name, but in all respects it is an establishment of the same type: an ordinary canteen where you can eat quickly and relatively tasty. Reviews are mostly positive.
4  Dining room No. 2  , st. Dzerzhinsky, 72. 9:00–19:00. Average check: 300 rub. The second establishment under the same sign: a good dining room where both travelers who are always in a hurry somewhere and local residents who often take food with them can dine.

Average cost
5  Cafe “Five Stars”, Konnaya st. 16A. 11:00–22:00. Average bill: 300-800 rub. It looks like a canteen, but in fact it is more of a cafe with service. Conflicting reviews.
6  Cafe “Ambar”  , Novgorodskaya embankment. 2A. Mon–Thu 10:00–20:00, Fri–Sun 10:00–22:00. Another cafe with an antique feel, this time in the style of a barn with brick walls. Stylish, reasonable prices.
7  Cafe “Yurves”, st. Mira, 34. 12:00–22:00. Average bill from 400 rub. In an ordinary ordinary district center this would be a good restaurant, but in Torzhok it doesn’t quite stand up to the competition.
8  Deep House Cafe, st. Trading Rows, 2. 9:00–23:00. 700-1000 rub. A cafe with a non-local name offers equally non-local food: nicoise with tuna and syrniki with hazelnuts and caramel, although Pozharsky cutlets are also available here. An interesting and healthy snack is croissant-based sandwiches. Visitors are generally satisfied.
9  Restaurant “Onyx”  , st. Mednikovykh, 4. Mon–Fri 7:00–23:00, Sat–Sun 8:00–23:00. Hot: from 400 ₽. Of all the restaurants in the city, this is the most intimate, and here there is a higher probability that loud music will not be played in the evening. The menu has a touch of Russian cuisine, the sticker on the door confidently declares “Here are the best Pozharsky cutlets in the city”; Moreover, there are even several types of them - for example, with and without a side dish. In summer it is nice to sit on the open terrace facing the courtyard. In the mornings, the restaurant opens earlier than others and offers good breakfasts.

Coffee and sweets
10  Coffee house “U Pozharsky in Torzhok”, st. Dzerzhinsky, 48. 10:00–20:00. Located in the famous Pozharsky hotel - not the one where A.S. stayed. Pushkin, but to her direct heir. The interior has an antique look. At one time they tried to open a restaurant here, but now it’s just a coffee shop with a modest selection of desserts and several types of tea and coffee. The entrance to the cafe is preceded by a large room with Novotorzh majolica for sale.
11  Coffee house “Angelov”  , st. Krasnaya Gora, 3. 10:00–22:00. Average check: 200 rub. According to the creators, this is “the world’s first fairytale where fairy tales are served for free, and coffee and cake are just a pleasant addition to the amazing stories.” The interior is original, visitors praise the meat and fish pies and are mostly satisfied.
12  Cafe “Quicksand”  , st. Krasnaya Gora, 24. 9:00–22:00. Average check: 250 rub. Behind some non-local name hides a tiny coffee shop, the creators of which claim that they make coffee from their own roasted beans and offer a dozen types of sweets along with pies. There's not much space inside; The establishment is more designed for those who take coffee to go.



1  Night club “Trinity”  , st. Krasnoarmeyskaya, 33. ☎ +7 (915) 749–55–50. Sun–Thu 12:00–23:00, Fri–Sat 12:00–4:00. The only nightclub in Torzhok with a dance floor and karaoke. The only alcoholic drink is beer. During the day it operates as a cafe with delivery throughout the city.



1  Hotel “Onix Torzhok”, st. Mednikovykh, 4. ✉ ☎ +7 (4822) 36-82-06. Single/double: 3450/4100 RUR, more expensive on weekends. Located in the historical center of the city within walking distance of the most interesting attractions. The hotel building is a monument of history and architecture of the 18th-19th centuries, which is not at all felt in the rooms, which have everything you need. In the hotel lobby there is a small museum exhibition consisting of household items and decorations from the 12th-14th centuries, found by archaeologists at the site of the restaurant. An impressive breakfast is included in the price. There is Wi-Fi, but the signal is so-so.
2  Hotel “Okolitsa”  , Leningradskoye Shosse, 10A. By Torzhok standards, the hotel is located far from the center and main attractions: the distance to any of them is from two to three kilometers. Standard amenities, free WiFi, parking available.
3  Hotel “Torzhok”, st. Vokzalnaya, 6. ☎ +7 (915) 715-00-27. Double room: 3000 ₽. A new, and by Torzhok standards, a large hotel a couple of blocks from the station. Rooms of different categories, all with amenities and Wi-Fi, which, however, does not work very well. The cheapest rooms are quite livable, and online booking systems sometimes call them rooms without windows, although in fact they do have windows. Breakfast corresponds to its low price, but is quite tolerable, but the hotel restaurant “Come il faut” leaves much to be desired and in the evenings greets guests with deafeningly loud music.
4  Hotel “Staroyamskaya”, Kalininskoye Shosse, 5 (behind the railway). ☎ +7 (48251) 9-60-40, +7 (910) 845-34-22. Double room: from 3400 ₽. It is located a couple of kilometers from the center and is more reminiscent of a country hotel, with all the entertainment provided inside: a gym, billiards, a swimming pool and bowling alley. At the same time, exploring Torzhok is not popular among hotel guests - more often people come here to celebrate a birthday, wedding or something else, so it can be noisy in the evening. On the other hand, here is one of the few places in Torzhok with a level of comfort above average. The restaurant serves good Russian cuisine, but in the evening there will almost certainly be no seats if the hotel itself is full.
5  Sports and fitness complex “Reef”, Leningradskoe shosse, 19u. ☎ +7 (920) 171-46-75. Double room: from 2000 ₽. The sports and fitness complex is located in an industrial zone; helicopters can fly nearby at night with all the ensuing consequences. Guests are offered either wooden log cabins of superior comfort, or cheaper two-story metal cabins of ordinary comfort, all with amenities. On the territory there is a Russian bathhouse, a two-story sauna, a restaurant and a sports bar; on weekends, life in all these places is in full swing.


Security questions

The city is quite safe, although you should avoid the square in front of the Lenin monument, where at any time of the day you can meet the drunken proletariat and empty bottles lying under your feet. The reason for this phenomenon is the nearby 24-hour bar “Paradise”, which looks more like a wine bar with the appropriate contingent. Local residents usually avoid this square.

Some tourist locations in the city can only accept cash, and there is only one Sberbank ATM in the center - on January 9 Square. It is safer to come to the city with cash.



Torzhok is one of the oldest cities in Russia. The exact date of its origin is not known. It is believed that the city was founded by Novgorod merchants at the turn of the X-XI centuries. This is evidenced by the results of archaeological excavations. The very first reliable written mention of Torzhok was found in the Novgorod Chronicle and dates back to 1139. It is dedicated to the capture of the city by the Suzdal prince Yuri Dolgoruky.

Origin of name
The name of the city comes from the word bargaining "place of trade, square, market". Since the XII century, the names "New Torg" and "Torzhok" are found in the annals. The latter was fixed in the language and became the official name of the city. Despite this, in modern toponymy, along with the adjective "Torzhok", the variant "Novotorzhsky" is also used, and the self-name of the inhabitants of the city remains "Novotori" to this day.

In the Novgorod Republic
From the time of its foundation until the second half of the 15th century, Torzhok was part of the Novgorod possessions. In the XII century, the city was located on the southeastern border of the Novgorod Republic, heading the Novotorzhskaya volost. The princes and mayors of the city were appointed at the veche. A trade road from Novgorod to the southern principalities ran along the Tvertsa River. The city was located at the intersection of land and waterways and was a major place of trade.

During the frequent strife of appanage princes and clashes between Novgorodians and neighbors, Torzhok, being a border town, first of all took on the blows of enemies. In 1139, Torzhok was taken by the army of the Suzdal prince Yuri Dolgoruky, irritated by the refusal of the Novgorodians to help him in the struggle against prince Vsevolod Olgovich, who took the throne in Kiev. Suffering incessant devastation of this kind, caused by the internecine wars of the princes, the city also experienced invasions of foreign enemies. In 1238, during Batu's campaign against Russia, Torzhok for two weeks - from February 21 to March 5 - held back the siege of the Mongol-Tatar troops. The city was taken, but with its resistance prevented the Mongol campaign against Novgorod. Torzhok was repeatedly attacked by Lithuanian troops. By the 15th century, subject to sieges and devastation from different sides, it was surrounded by wooden walls with stone towers, protected by an earthen rampart and ditches and turned into a fortress. In 1333 and 1334, Torzhok was twice ruined by the Grand Duke of Moscow Ivan Kalita during the invasion of Novgorod for refusing to pay with silver, which the Novgorodians obtained from trading with Siberia. The city suffered extremely badly in 1372 from a raid under the leadership of Prince Mikhail Alexandrovich of Tver. In particular, during the defense of Torzhok, the famous Novgorod voivode, the leader of the ushkuyniks, Alexander Abakunovich, the brother of the mayor of Staraya Russa, was killed. Many of Torzhok's disasters, which occurred as a result of Novgorod's enmity with the princes, ceased only with the fall of the republic.

At the beginning of the 15th century, the city minted its own silver coin - "Novotorzhskaya money".

In the Russian state and the Russian Empire
In 1478 Torzhok, like the entire Novgorod land, was annexed by the army of Prince Ivan III to the Moscow principality. In the Russian state, the city was headed by the Novotorzhsky district.

In 1565, after Tsar Ivan the Terrible divided the Russian state into oprichnina and zemstvo, the city became part of the latter.

At the beginning of the 17th century, the city was not spared by the Troubles. In 1609, in the battle near Torzhok, the detachments of the Russian-Swedish army of Prince Mikhail Skopin-Shuisky and Jacob Delagardie defeated the army of the Polish-Lithuanian invaders who supported False Dmitry II. Despite the victory, the city was severely ruined, churches and monasteries were robbed, and many residents were killed. The ancient Vvedenskaya church of the Borisoglebsk monastery burned down together with the people.

In 1625, by decree of Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich, the scribe book of Torzhok was compiled. The book contains a detailed description of the city economy and everyday life. According to her, in the 17th century, each of the two parts of the city, separated by the river, was divided into "ends", named after the churches located in them. On the right side there were twelve ends: Voznesensky, Voskresensky, Pyatnitsky, Bogoyavlensky, Yegoryevsky, Znamensky, Uspensky, Kozmodemyansky, Klimentovsky, Mironositsky, Ivanovsky and Ipatsky, where, in addition, the Plotnitskaya Sloboda was located. On the less populated left side there were five ends: Ilyinsky, Vozdvizhensky, Vlasyevsky, Nikolsky and Dmitrovsky, where Pishchalnaya Sloboda was located. In addition to those listed, there were settlements in the city that belonged to six monasteries: Rozhdestvensky, Voskresensky, Novodevichy, Pustynny, Vasilievsky and Borisoglebsky.


In 1661 and 1674 Torzhok was visited by the Austrian diplomat Augustin Meyerberg and the Swedish engineer Palmqvist, who was traveling with the embassy to Moscow, who left notes about their journey. After the construction of St. Petersburg in 1703, the city became a major point on the way between the two capitals.

In 1708, the Novotorzhsky district was assigned to the Ingermanland province, in 1719 - to the Tver province of the St. Petersburg province, and in 1727 - to the Novgorod province. In 1775 Torzhok became the district town of the Tver governorate, which was renamed in 1796 as a province. In 1742, the remains of the wooden walls of the fortress burned down, and the earthen rampart was torn down.

In 1780, Empress Catherine II approved the city coat of arms: three gold and three silver flying doves on a blue field. The coat of arms was created by the companion of the king of arms, Count Franz Matveyevich Santi.

In 1897, Torzhok had about 13,000 inhabitants. There were 21 factories and plants in the city; the most important were the steam mill (Torzhok conducted a significant trade in bread) and eight tanneries. Handicraft industries were developed: lace and so-called "Novotorzhskoe sewing" (gold, silver and silks on morocco and velvet). The city had 29 churches, a zemstvo hospital, 10 schools of various levels.

In Soviet times
On October 27 (November 9), 1917, the Novotorzhsky Soviet of Workers' Deputies created the Military Revolutionary Committee and established Soviet power in Torzhok, which was established by the end of November.

In 1929, the county division was abolished. On July 12, 1929, the territory of the Novotorzhsky district became part of the Tver district (abolished on July 30, 1930) of the Moscow region, and Torzhok became the center of the newly formed Novotorzhsky district (in February 1963 it was renamed the Torzhok district). On January 29, 1935, the city and the district became part of the Kalinin region (in July 1990, it was renamed into the Tver region).

In May 1941, Torzhok received the status of a city of regional subordination.

On October 14, 1941, the formations of the German 3rd tank group immediately after the capture of Kalinin (now Tver) tried to develop an offensive on Torzhok and go to the rear of the troops of the North-Western Front, but were rebuffed by the operational group of the North-Western Front N.F. Vatutin.

Finds of birch bark letters
As of 2016, 19 birch bark letters were found in Torzhok. By the number of these finds, the city ranks third after Novgorod and Staraya Russa.



There are many architectural monuments around Torzhok, even by the standards of Central Russia, and the estates designed by N.A. are of particular interest. Lvov - in the middle of nowhere, his creations look even more impressive than in urban conditions. The further path may lie in Tver, Staritsa, Ostashkov or Vyshny Volochyok - all these cities are picturesquely located in their own way and experienced their heyday at the same time as Torzhok, but are not similar to it or to each other. There are also more unconventional destinations - the factory town of Kuvshinovo with a couple of impressive modern buildings and, again, Lviv estates in the surrounding area and Tver Karelia, where it is already very difficult to find a living national flavor, but “organized” folklore is actively developing, such as museums or crafts.

1  Architectural and Ethnographic Museum “Vasilevo”, village. Vasilevo (north of the city, 8 km from the center of Torzhok). ✉ ☎ +7 (910) 932-72-00, +7 (910) 931-32-63. From May 1 to October 31: 10:30–19:00, from November 1 to April 30: 10:00–17:00; Mon and Tue are always days off. 200 rub. Museum of Wooden Architecture on the territory of an old noble estate. It contains about two dozen objects, including two churches and two chapels of the 18th-19th centuries, Central Russian and North Russian peasant estates, including buildings of Tver Karelians, and a fire station of the early 20th century. What has survived from the noble buildings is the outbuilding and the magnificent boulder bridge across the ravine, popularly nicknamed the Devil's Bridge. The five-span arch bridge was designed in the 18th century by N.A. Lvov, he also had a hand in the creation of a regular park, from which a luxurious linden alley has been preserved. Near the entrance to the museum there are several stone crosses from the 16th century.
How to get there: to the village of Mitino, located 1 km from the museum, bus No. 319 runs from Torzhok, but it rarely does so, so in good weather it’s easier to take one of the many city buses to the Mitino stop on the northern outskirts of Torzhok (city stop Mitino and the village of Mitino are different places!), from where you walk about 3 km to the museum along a picturesque forest road.
2  Mitino Estate (next to the Vasilevo Museum). The Mitino estate appeared as a result of the division of the Vasilevo estate, which was once located on both banks of the Tvertsa. Both Mitino and Vasilevo belonged to distant relatives of N.A. Lvov, so his participation in the construction was quite natural. In Mitino, farm buildings and a park have been preserved from the “Lvov” time, and the main house was built in the middle of the 19th century on the site of the “Lvov” wooden mansion. The most original building by N.A. Lviv is considered to be a wooden pyramid-cellar, from which, however, little remains. Now the estate is occupied by a sanatorium.
3  Estate “Znamenskoe-Raek” (20 km from the city towards Tver, 3 km from the M10 highway). ☎ +7 (919) 061-18-49. 9:00–21:00. One of the most famous estates in the Tver region has preserved only the remnants of its former luxury, although even in this form it impresses with its grandeur and can rightfully be considered the brightest example of Palladianism in Russia. The estate complex was designed by N.A. Lvov, local architect F.I. helped implement the plan. Butsi. The customer of the construction was Senator and Chief General F.I. Glebov (1734-1799), who arranged the estate for his beautiful wife Elizaveta Streshneva (1751-1837). The best buildings of the estate are the manor house and the circular colonnade connecting the house with side wings for various purposes. The interior decoration of the house has practically not been preserved, but it was once absolutely grandiose. Behind the house there is an old park with ponds, stretching to the bank of the Lagovezh River. And although all the bridges, grottoes and gazebos have sunk into oblivion, the park has not lost its charm, and on one of the ponds there is an island with a lone pine tree, planted, according to legend, by F.I. himself. Glebov.
How to get there: from the stop on Ilyinskaya Square in Torzhok, take a minibus towards Tver to the Dubrovka stop, then about 4 km on foot.
4  Chapel of Daniel the Stylite, village. Vasilyeva Gora (1.5 km south of the Znamenskoe-Raek estate). The spectacular rotunda chapel was erected according to the design of N.A. Lvov in 1792. It was built in a new cemetery, created in place of the abolished graveyard in the village of Rayok, which interfered with the construction of a luxurious estate. The frescoes in the chapel appeared shortly after construction, their author is unknown, but the paintings in a simplified form repeat the frescoes of Raphael in the Vatican Stanza della Segnatura, reproducing all the details down to the Latin inscriptions. Partially preserved external paintings were made at the end of the 19th century.
5  The Poltoratsky estate in Gruziny (13 km from the city on the road to Staritsa), the village of Gruziny. One of the largest estates in the vicinity of Torzhok has a brilliant past and a deplorable present. At the end of the 17th century, in these places there was the village of Kuznechkovo, which was owned by the Shishkov family. In 1763, ownership passed to Agathoklea Shishkova (1737-1822), who married M.F. at the age of 15. Poltoratsky (1729-1795). One of the spouses’ ancestors brought from military campaigns an icon of the Georgian Mother of God, for which in 1746 a stone church that has not reached us was built, giving the village a new name - Georgians. The baroque ensemble of the estate began to take shape in the middle of the 18th century. The design of the manor house belonged to Francesco Rastrelli himself, the author of the Winter Palace, and at the end of the 18th century the owner invited N.A. to work on it. Lvov. Lvov’s hand owns the preserved boulder bridge across the Zhalenka River and the overgrown landscape park, once decorated with all sorts of ideas. In the 1820s, the estate was occupied by a family friend, the famous architect V.P. Stasov. He built wings and connected them with the palace with galleries, and for the peasants he built twenty stone houses, once covered with tiles. By the middle of the 19th century, the estate had everything - a hospital, wind and water mills, a dam, a forge, horse and cattle yards, a distillery and a linen factory. After the death of K.M. Poltoratsky (1782-1858), the village of Gruziny began to change owners and by the end of the 19th century it was finally sold out. After the revolution, the manor house was chosen by an agricultural school, and from the late 1930s it housed a psychoneurological boarding school. Now no one lives in the main house, although traces of former luxury can still be seen. You can also see some of the estate's buildings in varying states of preservation.

How to get there: suburban bus No. 373 runs several times a day (you need the Gruziny-2 stop, and in Torzhok the easiest way to catch it is on Pushkinskaya Square). More distant, but rare options in the same direction (316, 317, 320, 323, 542v), which depart from the railway station and pass through Pushkinskaya Square, are also suitable.

6  Peter and Paul Church , Zagorye/Pereslegino. Another classicist church in the vicinity of Torzhok was built in 1803, its design is also attributed to N.A. Lvov. Despite its depressing condition, the church with its six-column porticoes makes an indelible impression. It will take some imagination to imagine the former splendor of the interior, but the double dome on massive pylons is still beautiful today.

7  The Nikolskoye-Cherenchitsy estate Wikidata element, p. Nikolskoye (20 km northwest of the city). The village of Nikolskoye is the birthplace of Nikolai Alexandrovich Lvov (1753-1804). Construction in N.A.’s own estate Lvov started working in the 1780s, by which time he had already built several buildings, including in St. Petersburg. What Lvov did in his estate is fully described by the modern term “smart home”. He began with outbuildings - a woodshed and a barnyard, both with porticoes; a pyramid-shaped cellar with an arched entrance and a mystical interior, which revealed his passion for Freemasonry, and a forge made of wild stone-boulder. Of the two dozen manor buildings, only four have reached us: in addition to the mentioned pyramid and forge, this is the western wing of the manor house and the Church of the Resurrection. The house built by Lvov had a lot of all kinds of household appliances that delighted his contemporaries. For example, it contained a well with a water-lifting machine, ventilated fireplaces and a kitchen, where steam was used for cooking, washing dishes, and even rotating spits. The rotunda church was the last to be built, but its finishing was done by the architect’s widow. Before the revolution, in the lower tier of the church there was the tomb of the Lvovs, but after 1917 the church was destroyed, the crypt was opened, and the remains of the architect and his wife were lost.

How to get there: suburban bus No. 315 (from the railway station via Pushkinskaya Square) runs twice a week, so it is useless on its own, although you can try combining it with a taxi. The road is unpaved and not of the best quality.

8  Kazan Church, Arpachevo (2 km from Nikolskoye along the same road). Another creation by N.A. Lviv is a church with a breathtaking bell tower, built in 1783-1791 on the site of a dilapidated wooden church. It has some similarities with the Cathedral of the Boris and Gleb Monastery (the same author), and its interior was painted by Lvov’s friend, the famous artist V.L. Borovikovsky, and something from these paintings has been preserved. In 1989, the restoration of the church was carried out by the former Moscow actor G.F. Shaposhnikov. The cylindrical bell tower, more like a lighthouse, was less fortunate, so now Arpachevo has its own leaning bell tower, and the mystery of the origin of its unusual shape has not yet been fully revealed.
How to get there: similar to Nikolsky.