Ust-Omchug is an urban-type settlement in the Magadan Region of Russia, the administrative center of the Tenkinsky District and the corresponding urban district.
Only one mine and one mine were operating on the territory of Tenka
when Order No. 894 appeared. This order laid the foundation for the
construction of Ust-Omchug. When the first peg for the first tent was
hammered in, unfortunately, history has not been preserved. And on
October 1, 1939, another order stated that the TSPU was organized. It
was placed in a tent at the place where the repair and mechanical
workshops were later built. They also lived in tents, which were
upholstered with plywood and boards for the winter. On December 26,
1939, N.S. was appointed head of the TSPU. Matveev.
Why was this
place chosen for the construction of a new village? What was the
determining factor for the leadership of Dalstroy when choosing a
location for the new control center?
A little background. In the
field season of 1938, the Southern GPU in the basin of the river. Omchug
sent a detachment of 5 people, led by Dmitry Ivanovich Spivak. One of
the members of this detachment was Petr Ivanovich Avramenko, who became
one of the first residents of Ust-Omchug and worked here for more than
40 years. Here are excerpts from his memoirs, which remained on the
pages of the regional newspaper Leninskoye Znamya about this time:
“The path started from Atka. We traveled by the first sledge-tractor
train. 10 tractors and two sleds are attached to each of them. Atka -
Maltan - Kholodkan - Bokhapcha - Solnechnoye Lake, and from there on
deer along the Tengkeli, Siliptsovy streams. We arrived at the place
where Ust-Omchug is now located on April 30. The place was wonderful!
Virgin forest. Larch trees in two girths, as tall as masts ... We had to
explore a huge area of \u200b\u200bthe basin of the Omchug, Neglinka
rivers, their tributaries, streams, springs ... D. Spivak conducted an
eye survey, we dug clearings along the sides, washed, dried samples. The
gold was rich. In October we returned to Orotukan. The results were
excellent - the samples showed the industrial content of gold. At the
end of October of the same year, I again returned to Tenka to organize
an exploration site and detailed reconnaissance.
“We only reached
the current Agrobaza by car (perhaps P.I. calls Agrobaza Chalbukhan or
Anmannanju - I.G.), there was no further road. We went on foot. 23
people, two tents. We had to build a base (perhaps this is the future
Detrinsky reconnaissance area - I. G.). A week later, we started
digging.
A new reconnaissance section was organized. The
indicators were good, and in Magadan they became interested in them. In
September 1939, representatives arrived from there, and at the end of
September, the newly organized Tenkinskoye Mining and Industrial
Administration began to throw in cargo. Construction has begun."
Maybe this discovery was decisive for the choice of a place for the
center of the new administration (after all, the richest Omchak placer
will be discovered only a year later). If this is so, then the first
hopes, apparently, did not come true, because the exploration of the
Omchug placer and its tributaries lasted for another 10 years, and the
deposit on the river. Omchug began to be exploited only in 1948.
Probably, the presence of the road was the decisive argument in choosing
a place for the future center of the TSPU. By the summer of 1939, when
the Tenkinskoe district GRU was formed on Iganja, according to the
memoirs of the first chief geologist of this district GRU B. L. Flerov,
“the route was only being built further on Iganji”, and by the autumn of
1939 it was possible to drive to Butugychag by car, only this there was
also a “autoprolaz”, and not a road.
But let's get back to the
construction of Ust-Omchug, or rather, the village of 184th km, as it
was then called, in the road way. From the memoirs of P. I. Avramenko:
“The taiga was uprooted, making room for future buildings. The very
first to cut down the building of the mining administration (now there
is a monument to Lenin on this place - I. G.), then a dining room
(somewhere in the area of \u200b\u200bthe current library - I. G.), a
store (the corner of Pobedy and Gornyatskaya streets, now a free place -
I . G.), two houses along Komsomolskaya Street (No. 26, 28 - I. G.), a
bathhouse (the corner of Gagarin and Tenkinskaya streets, now a vacant
lot near the TsDiNT - I. G.). They dashed off the road, built several
more residential buildings, and soon the first boiler room began to
smoke.”
Tenkinets from 1939, geologist A. Krasilnikov wrote: “Our
village was then small and uninhabited. A small administration building,
a house where a medical unit and a warehouse of one of the industry
departments were located, and 2-3 living quarters - that's all we saw
when we arrived here. But in the area of the Detrin River, the
construction of two-story residential buildings was going on at an
accelerated pace.
This is how the geologist Viktor Volodin
remembered the birth of our village: “I remember well the twilight of a
winter day when my brother and I arrived in this future village. Then we
got off the passing truck just at the intersection of the highway, or
“route”, with this road (clearing). Leaving our transport on the left
bank of the Detrin, we went along the road going to the right of the
main hill at a right angle. It led down the Detrin into the forest. We
walked briskly along it, but soon saw that there was nothing further
along it. Only to the left were the windows of the radio house, which
stood off the road on a low terrace.
On the clearing on the
right, not far from this intersection, there was a temporary power
plant, which was a barn in which a small engine and generator stood and
worked.
A little further along the clearing and away from it, on
the left, on a low terrace towering above it, stood a beautiful house
that had just been cut down, in which we easily guessed the radio
station by the masts with the antenna sticking out near it.
At
the end of this clearing, almost one kilometer from the highway, a
two-story building of the mining department was then being built.
Having entered the power plant, we asked the people and found out
that there is not a single finished building in the village yet, except
for the radio station and the power plant, that two two-story
engineering and technical buildings and the management building are
still being built there, and the management is now huddled in a large
tent, which stands a little further on the way on the terrace, and
therefore it is not visible from below.
All civilian employees of
the administration live in several large tents near the camp.
That's where we went. They settled us in a tent specially designated for
business travelers, which stood among others of the same kind. The tents
of civilian employees were located near the camp surrounded by barbed
wire, in which there were barracks inhabited by road workers and
carpenters who were building the village. The camp and tents were
located one and a half kilometers from the control tent on the other
(left) bank of the Omchug River, which flows into Detrin.
The
settlement was built on a site bounded from the southeast by the bank of
Detrin, stretched from southwest to northeast, from the southwest - by
the right slope of the Omchug river valley, and from the northwest,
north and northeast - by a wide bend of the riverbed Omchug. This entire
area, on which the village later grew, had an area of about 1 square
kilometer.
Then, as already mentioned, the first two two-story
houses were built in it, located side by side parallel to the river bank
and 50 meters from it. The control building was built 100 meters further
from the river bank and approximately 150 meters closer to the Omchug
bank.
In November 1939, construction of the TSPU building began
in the remote taiga. At the same time, they began to build two-story
houses along Komsomolskaya Street.
In January 1940, there was not
a single residential building on the current Gornyatskaya, there was a
clearing to the TSPU building under construction.
In May 1941,
administrative buildings, a canteen, a shop, a bathhouse, a post office,
an outpatient clinic and more than a dozen residential buildings were
built.
By the beginning of the war, the main streets of
Ust-Omchug were the streets that later became known as Gornyatskaya and
Rechnaya. These two streets were the oldest in the village, which arose
at the very beginning of its construction. The first of them ran a
clearing in the forest and a road on it, when on a frosty February
evening my brother and I first arrived in this future village a year and
a half before the start of World War II.
By 1941, the former
glade (Gornyatskaya Street) housed a power plant, central repair and
mechanical workshops (TsRMM), a school, a post office, telegraph and
savings bank, a shop, a canteen and the Tenkinskoe mining department
(TGPU).
In addition to the listed buildings, of which only the
TSPU building was two-story, and all the rest were one-story, only two,
also one-story, wooden residential buildings were built here: the
so-called GRS house, located not far from the power plant, and just like
it, on the right side of the street and obliquely from it, a little
further on its left side - the house of drivers.
The rest of the
listed buildings were then located as follows: TSRMM - on the left side
of the street, opposite the power plant, the school - on the right, a
few dozen meters from the central intersection (with Rechnaya Street),
the post office (post office) and the store occupied, respectively, its
eastern and northern corners. The dining room was located in the depths
of the future quarter to the north of the store and 2-3 tens of meters
from Rechnaya and Gornyatskaya streets. About a dozen meters separated
it from the TSPU building, which also stood on the left side of the
street.
The third residential building appeared on Gornyatskaya
Street in the autumn of 1941. It was the house of the field workers,
built by the time the field parties returned against the “house of the
State Registration Service” next to the house of the drivers.”
And again from the memoirs of geologist Viktor Volodin: “In 1941,
Ust-Omchug was already at that time a much more crowded village than
Iganja was even in the days of its full heyday. There was no club here
yet, but there was a rather large dining room in which films were
regularly shown. To do this, after dinner, the tables were removed to
the wall, placing them one on top of the other, a screen was hung in the
hall and benches were placed. There were so many people in the village
that more than half of the people they met on the street were strangers.
One of the employees of the department in which I began to work joked
that it was more like Moscow here and therefore better than on Iganja.
In the autumn of 1942, a second house for field workers was built,
occupying the western corner of the same central intersection.
Finally, in 1943, on the last still empty southern corner of it, a third
house for field workers was built, in which I now also settled. There
were more vacant lots on the street then than buildings.
On the
right side of the street, next to the school, there was also the
building of the fire brigade, built in 1942, and on the left side,
separated from it by a large wasteland, there was a square fenced with a
fence, on which barracks and other
River Street, which arose
simultaneously with Gornyatskaya Street, led southeast to the bank of
Detrin and northwest to the bend of Omchug from Gornyatskaya Street. Its
length is probably 700-800 meters. The clearing in the centuries-old
larch forest, along which this street later ran, initially led to two
two-story houses of the ITR, which were built here simultaneously with
the TSPU building at the very end of 1939 and at the beginning of 1940.
They are located near the coast on both sides of this street and
face it with their end sides. Their facades, for some reason unknown to
me, were turned towards the river, and the back side looked at the
village. Both of these houses fit into the Komsomolskaya street that
arose much later, stretching to the southwest. The houses were of the
barracks type with a corridor system with rooms on either side. Opposite
the stairwell there was a shared kitchen on each floor. I lived in one
of these houses together with A.M. Kovalev.
In addition to these
two houses and the listed buildings at the intersection of Gornyatskaya
and Rechnaya streets, the latter also housed the so-called
eight-apartment two-story house built just before the war, that is,
completed just before it began and located on the southwestern side of
the street near the houses of the ITR.
Opposite it, that is, on
the other side of the street, stood the one-story house of the
hydrometeorological service, which was later occupied by the post
office. Further behind Gornyatskaya Street stood the small mansion of
the head of Ten'Lag, then, also on the right side, a long wooden
building with stone wings - the administration of Ten'Lag; then, also on
the right, at the corner of Tenkinskaya Street, stood the one-story
building of the NKVD district department.
On the left side of the
street, northwest of the intersection with Gornyatskaya, there was a
house of the special unit with a golden cash register, then a fence
stretched out, enclosing the territory of the VOKhR. The back of this
territory with the same long fence led out onto the already outlined,
but still deserted Tenkinskaya Street, on the other side of which there
was a bathhouse that had been operating since 1940.
At the
northwestern end of Rechnaya Street, on its left side, behind a high
fence, stood the large mansion of the head of the TSPU. He headed a
small street that stretched along the banks of the Omchug bend and also
consisted of mansions. There was the so-called house of directorate - a
hotel for high-ranking persons and mansions of commanding staff.
Probably, two dozen meters from River Street in its first quarter, that
is, not far from the houses of the ITR, there was a club opened in the
spring of 1943, separated from Gornyatskaya Street with an area up to 50
m wide, in the center of which, later in 1947, a sculpture was placed on
a pedestal I. V. Stalin, replaced by a bronze monument to V. I. Lenin,
opened on April 30, 1958.
All the buildings of the village were
wooden, unplastered, and all the first time they shone with not yet
grayed yellow-white logs of centuries-old larches, cut down partially at
the place of construction. At that time, only two wings were made of
stone, built from large fragments of shale - extensions near the Tenlag
building. At that time, the Geofond was located in one of them.
The village was still very young in those early years. He had just
turned three years old, it was the fourth year of his existence.
During the construction of the village on the site of a four- or
five-century-old larch forest, the builders tried not to cut trees that
did not interfere with the construction. There were a lot of them left
in the wastelands and between the houses of the village. Wastelands with
uncut trees were sections of a real ship grove.
Thick, tall
larches with straight trunks and green crowns were very beautiful and
adorned the village in the first two or three years of its life, but
they stood unstable and fell in strong squally gusts of wind and
sometimes even threatened the lives of passers-by. In the summer of
1942, I once witnessed a devastating squall that caused a massive fall
of trees.
In the summer of 1943, the village quickly changed its
appearance. They began to plaster and whitewash the walls of houses from
above, not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Leonid
Andreevich Koff, the head of the alluvial department of our GRO TSPU,
became the instigator, and perhaps the initiator of this case, who was
the first to almost plaster the house in which he lived with his own
hands.
It was a pity that at the same time, under the plaster,
the features of the buildings disappeared without a trace. Beautiful,
perfectly cut into a corner from edged, hewn logs, the first buildings
of the village with smooth, even walls became exactly the same as those
cut down “in a paw” or built “in a pickup”, that is, in the same way as
stables, stables and cattle yards are built . True, the latter greatly
benefited from this and became much more decent.
And in the
village dining room, a picture painted by one of the imprisoned artists
in oil paints, obviously, back in 1940, continued to hang, which
depicted the same dining room, just built with unplastered log walls
shining with fresh yellowness and smelling of resin.
The picture,
which I really liked in the first years of the war, also depicted the
buildings closest to the dining room, it seems, the post office, the
shop and the mansion of the head of Tenlag, as well as the stumps that
had not yet been uprooted from the larches cut down in front of the
dining room and many still living green larches around. Everything was
drawn very well and very similar to nature, which in the first years of
my visits to the dining room could be observed.
However, we
uprooted the stumps in front of the dining room in the early autumn of
1941, in 1942 the trees disappeared, and in 1943 the dining room with
whitewashed plaster walls and other buildings changed beyond
recognition.”
And although, according to P.I. Avramenko, built
poorly and slowly, yet the village grew. The construction of the
settlement was carried out by the Capital Construction Department of the
TSPU13, and the builders were the prisoners of the Komendantsky OLP. The
camp zone was located on the site of the current Zarechnaya Street,
apparently, the creek owes its name to the neighborhood with the zone.
Lagerny, the first left tributary from the mouth of the river. Omchug.
"Difficult Childhood"
During the war years, there was a rapid
growth of the mining industry in Tenka. Many new mines and mines sprang
up. By the end of 1941, TSPU already included 9 mines and mines, 2
factories. During the war years, the head of the TSPU was V.A.
Vinogradov, Ch. engineer first K.K. Sarakhanov, then D.A. Osepyan (he
worked in this position for several more years after the war). More than
once, TSPU became the winner of the socialist competition among the
enterprises of Dalstroy (the 1942 plan for metal was completed by TSPU
by November 20 by 159.4%).
In the late 1940s and early 1950s, the
leaders of the TSPU were major engineer Bokarev (mentioned in 1947),
engineer-colonel V.V. Volkov (1948 - early 1950s), mining director of
the 1st rank Vasyunin (mentioned in 1952). The last head of the TSPU
until 1957 was Lieutenant Colonel of the quartermaster service E.I.
Azbukin.
A small touch to the biography of the last head of the
TSPU Evgeny Ivanovich Azbukin: born in 1915, education - FZO. Since 1940
in Dalstroy (propaganda instructor at the political department of the
Northern GPU, deputy head of a number of mines for political work, head
of the mine, deputy head of the TSPU). After graduating in 1952 from a
one-year course at the Higher Officers' School, he was appointed head of
the TSPU, where he worked until its abolition. After that, he worked as
chairman of the Tenkinsky district executive committee. In fact, the
first person who ruled our territory under Dalstroy remained the first
person under the Soviets.
The Mining and Industrial
Administration is the main administrative and economic body of the
entire region, although, strictly speaking, the territory of the TSPU at
that time belonged to two administrative entities at once, the
Srednekansky and Olsky districts of the Khabarovsk Territory. All
enterprises, organizations and institutions of the districts, including
Ust-Omchug, were subordinate either to the TSPU or directly to other
branch services of Dalstroy. The power of administrative formations
(Councils of various levels) was formal.
A large department of
the TSPU was the Department of Capital Construction (OKS), which led
industrial and civil construction in the management and, accordingly,
the village of Ust-Omchug as well. At the beginning of the war, the OKS
was liquidated, and a construction site of the TSPU was created instead,
and the former construction sites at enterprises were reorganized into
construction superintendents, while retaining the functions of
independent self-supporting units. In the second half of 1941, the
construction site of the TSPU included five construction
superintendents: the Butugychag mine, factory No. 1 named after.
Chapaev, Ust-Omchug village, Svetly mine, factory No. 6 (Arman).
Tenkinskoye district GRU, having become the geological exploration
department of the TSPU, was relocated in 1941 from the village. Iganja
in Ust-Omchug. GRO TSPU during the war years was headed by very famous
geologists - this is the future laureate of the Lenin Prize I.E.
Drabkin, already in those years, candidate of geological and
mineralogical sciences N.P. Anikeev, who was awarded the title of Hero
of Socialist Labor in 1966, laureates of the Stalin Prizes S.D. Rakovsky
and G.A. Kechek. A brilliant constellation of Tenkino geologists of the
war years immortalized their names in the history of the region with the
discoveries of new deposits. These are the winners of the Stalin Prizes
in 1946 V.A. Matveenko, E.P. Mashko, N.I. Chemodanov, P.M. Shumilov,
B.B. Evangulov and many others.
After the camp, the well-known Abkhaz
poet Sh.L. Tsvizhba.
In 1947, geological exploration was
separated from the TSPU into an independent balance and subordinated to
the GRU Dalstroy. The new organization was named Verkhne-Kolyma district
GRU. G.A. became its head. Kechek, and the chief geologist P.M.
Shumilov. One of the paragraphs of the order read: “Deputy. to send the
head of the Sevvostlag, Colonel Comrade Bondarenko, to the VkraiGRU,
with the arrival of the labor force, an additional 400 workers and
organize the OLP in the districtGRU as part of the Tenlag. Near the camp
"Komendantsky" (on the current Zarechnaya street), another one appeared,
colloquially referred to as "GROvsky". OLP, which supplied labor for the
VKrayGRU, was number 15 and was located 272 km from Magadan (or a
kilometer from Ust-Omchug). On March 1, 1952, there were 1962 prisoners
in its composition, including the number of convicts with articles “for
counter-revolutionary crimes” was 4.5%, the criminal bandit element was
2.5%, the rest belonged to “others”, i.e. to householders. And this is
understandable, since a large number of prisoners working in geological
exploration were unescorted. Of course, most of them were not in
Ust-Omchug.
OLP No. 15 in 1952 consisted of 8 camps:
Chelbukhansky, Kulinsky, Valunisty, Rodionovsky, Sanga-Talonsky,
Urchansky, Armansky and Sukhoi. "Dry" was the central camp point of OLP
No. 1 524. (On the map, on the Sukhoi stream, 1 km from the valley of
the Omchug river, a small settlement of the same name is indicated, but
without marking the camp zone. Judging by the
certificates-characteristics of OLPs, wire zones were in each out of 8
camps. Apparently, the zone with that name was still on Zarechny, and
the distance from OLP No. 15 to Tenlag in 1 km (according to
information) also corresponds to its location on Zarechny, and they only
worked on Sukhoi z / c) . By order of December 11, 1953, OLP No. 15
became the Upper Kolyma district GRU.
The war made adjustments to
the construction of the newly born village. Mining equipment had to be
repaired. “At the end of 1942, Dalstroy issued an order to organize
central repair and mechanical workshops in the village of Ust-Omchug,”
wrote engineer G. Popov, who had worked there from the first days of the
creation of the TSRM. - Soon the building of the mechanical repair shop
was built and machine tools were brought in - about a dozen
metal-cutting machines. After that, the construction and equipment of
the remaining three workshops of workshops began - a foundry, a forging
and boiler room and an electrical repair shop. The need to organize
casting on site became clear from the very first days. Therefore,
overcoming the difficulties associated with the importation of the
necessary materials, the team of metalworkers achieved the construction
of a cupola furnace - a furnace for melting cast iron with a capacity of
one and a half tons per outlet, and then mounted a special furnace for
melting bronze.
Testimony of an old-timer of the village A.
Krasilnikova: “In 1942, on the site of a forest massif, the corps of the
TsRMM appeared.” The fact that the TSRMM was created in the third year
after the formation of the TSPU, that is, in 1942, was written by the
heads of the workshop I. Lukyansky and S. Brodsky in the regional
newspaper. In later publications, including the author's, based on the
historical information about the Tenkinsky plant, compiled by the head.
The archive of K. Vvedenskaya on November 8, 1970, the year of the
formation of the TsRMM is called 1941. It seems that the information
received from eyewitnesses of the event shortly after the event is more
accurate. Perhaps, in the absence of archival documents (according to
TsRMM, they are available only from 1943), Vvedenskaya used information
received from veterans of the plant after a longer period of time, and
the inaccuracy "stretched" into subsequent publications. In the
explanatory note to the report on capital investments of the TSPU for
1942, the TSRMM was named the main design object and, therefore, could
not be built in 1941. Most likely, it was only under construction in
1942, and began to work thoroughly in 1943.
In the early years,
TSRMM repaired steam excavators, gas-generating vehicles ZIS-21,
bulldozers until 1944, TSPU did not yet have, manufactured mine cars,
earthen buckets and other mining equipment, repaired transformers and
electric motors. In 1944, the first pneumatic hammer was installed at
TSPU. The foundry shop was launched in 1943.
One of the veterans
of this enterprise, I. Gritsenko, calls A. Dementyev the first head of
the CRMM, he was supported by the old-timer of Ust-Omchug I.S. Grundman.
S. Evseev, who was the director of the GOK in the 1980s, wrote that the
first head of the workshops was A.E. Vasiliev, who worked in this
position until 1957. Who is right has not been established.
After
several years of general work at Butugychag, until December 1944, the
talented physicist, inventor and future writer G. G. Demidov continued
his camp term at the Central Russian Metallurgical Museum as an
electroplating engineer.
In 1957, Hero of the Soviet Union P.I.
Nikulin: “Simultaneously with the construction and equipment of the
workshops, the construction of a diesel power plant was carried out.
Before it, the village had one locomobile with a capacity of 50
horsepower, which barely met the needs of Ust-Omchug in lighting.
Immediately with the launch of the first workshop, the locomotive fleet
of the station was increased to four units. Later, a complete
reconstruction of the power plant was carried out.”
The power
plant was located on the street. Gornyatskaya, opposite the TsRMM. A
curious detail from the stories of the old-timer of the village P. I.
Avramenko. When buying a new light bulb, the base from the burnt out
light bulb had to be handed over to the store, and the flasks for the
lamps were made at the factory in the village. Glass. Quartz from the
vein at Chikhara was also sent there, so that the trucks carrying goods
to Ust-Omchug did not go back empty. Probably a quartz quarry on the
left bank of the river. Omchug (the so-called "white stones") was
intended for the same.
Difficulties common to the whole of Kolyma
did not bypass Tenka either. During the war years, the influx of new
prisoners "from the mainland", the main labor force of Kolyma in the
first years of development, sharply decreased. The problem of personnel
during the war years was solved as follows. It was forbidden to release
from the camps those convicted under Art. 58 and 59 of the Criminal Code
of the RSFSR (counter-revolutionaries and bandits); those convicted of
domestic crimes were released in agreement with the head of the NKVD RO
and transferred to the category of civilian employees, until the end of
the war they were obliged to work in Dalstroy.
There was not
enough transport, in the very first military winter there was not enough
gasoline - the existing transport did not get up. Cars and tractors were
converted to gas generators. Instead of gasoline, they worked on wood.
Difficulties with food - we get it ourselves. During the war years,
gardens began to appear around Ust-Omchug on the site of uprooted
clearings. A popular vegetable was swede - large and fruitful in a harsh
climate. They grew turnips, cabbage and even tobacco. In 1943 potatoes
were planted for the first time. For one person they gave five, for a
family - 10 kg of potatoes, with the condition that they must be
planted.
In September 1940, the first issue of the newspaper “For
Metal” was published in Ust-Omchug, since 1941 it began to appear
regularly, this was the predecessor of the current regional newspaper,
and then it was the organ of the political department of the Tenkinsky
Mining and Industrial Construction (TGPS) (so for some time it was
called TSPU). It was published twice a week. Its first editor was
Gogolev (initials unknown). With No. 37 (776) dated April 6, 1947, the
newspaper became known as Bolshevik. The editor of the newspaper was
N.N. Glushkov.
There was also local radio broadcasting in the
village. Its organizer and editor was a former consular officer, a
German by nationality, by the name of Eller or Eher. In what year the
radio broadcasts began, unfortunately, it was not possible to establish,
but in 1945-1946, according to the stories of the old resident of our
village, I.S. Grundman, these radio programs were broadcast, and then
there was a break.
During the difficult war years, life in
Ust-Omchug did not stop. The newspaper “Za metal” in No. 40 (88) dated
May 8, 1941 reported that “in the village of Ust-Omchug, they started
building an elementary school for 160 students. At the construction site
of the school, deforestation and uprooting of stumps are carried out.
The builders organize socialist competition among themselves. They
undertake to complete the construction of the school by the beginning of
the academic year 1941-1942.
The builders kept their promise. In
1941, when cities and villages were being destroyed in the west of our
country under fascist bombs, young Ust-Omchurs sat down at the desks of
the first real school in our village. “It was a low one-story building
that could hardly accommodate 4-5 grades.”
And until 1941, two
rooms in the TSPU building, according to I.S. Grund-man, occupied for
school classes. If this is true, then it was probably only in the
1940/1941 academic year, since a year earlier, not only the TSPU
building was not there, but the children themselves were unlikely to be
here either. The first builders of Ust-Omchug in the autumn of 1939
started with tents, and it is unlikely that the leaders of this
construction immediately brought their families with children here, and
the prisoners did not have school-age children here.
The first
director of the school was Mikhail Mikhailovich Gogolev. Perhaps the
first director and the first editor of the newspaper are the same
person. This school, according to the testimony of the old-timers of the
village I.S. Grundman and G.N. Zakharova, was located on the current
Gagarin Street, next to the building of the former printing house. Now
this place is a wasteland. Not far from the school, in adapted small
premises, there was a boarding school for children from villages where
there were no schools yet. Toddlers and girls lived in the building,
where later there was an editorial office, and older boys lived in a
separate house on the street. Komsomolskaya. A boarding canteen was
located in a small annex to the fire station.
The school has
grown with the students. It was necessary to open the 5th, then the 6th
grade. The number of students also increased. “In 1945, a spacious,
bright two-story ten-year building was built.” The school was located at
the corner of Gornyatskaya and Shkolnaya streets. “Our children started
the 1946 school year at a new ten-year school.” And the first release of
the tenth grade took place in 1949. Graduates - only 11 people, four of
them were from the Magadan orphanage.
One girl did not have
parents, but she entered the Krasnoyarsk Forestry Institute and
graduated from it. All the teachers of the Tenkinskaya secondary school
helped her financially study.
The school in Ust-Omchug was called
Tenkinskaya, probably because children from all over Tenka studied there
... And the teachers in the early years were not always specialist
teachers. Children were taught by geologists, former repressed
engineers, etc.
The director of the school in 1945-1946 was the
wife of the head of the TsRMM, Maria Markovna Dementieva, then there was
Nikolai Vasilievich Ukhov, since 1948, Alexander Iosifovich Gudovich. A
remarkable galaxy of teachers taught young Tenkinites in the 2nd half of
the 1940s and in the 1950s: M.S. Permyakova (since 1946), A.A. Pisareva
(since 1950), N.E. Voitsekhovskaya (since 1952) and others. A graduate
of the Tenkinskaya school in 1954, B.P. Drozdov also remembers other
teachers well: teachers of mathematics and drawing of the exiled
Alexander Alekseevich Nikitin, Russian language and literature - Anna
Ivanovna Dolgikh, physicists - Samir Bulatovich Bulatov, physical
education - Oleg Belanovich.
Two years later, next to the school,
a two-story building of a boarding school grew up (its last lifetime
purpose was the administrative building of a consumer services plant).
Soon these buildings were also missing. In the 1950s, another school
building appeared in the center of the village. It was a wooden
two-story building, kids from the 1st to the 4th grade lived and studied
here (later the TRGPU was located there, then the GOK training complex,
the building was destroyed in the late 1990s). Now all these buildings
are empty lots. Perhaps in the early 1950s, when the school building
became more than one, the Ust-Omchug school appeared. At least in the
regional newspaper for 1954, both names are found at the same time -
Tenkinskaya secondary school and Ust-Omchug school.
In August
1942, at the place where the discoverers of Omchug gold hunted four
years ago, a hospital with 20 beds was opened, and in 1944 the first
pharmacy was opened. All medical institutions of the district were under
the auspices of the medical unit (since 1947, the sanitary department)
of the TSPU, which was subordinate to the Sanitary Directorate of
Dalstroy. The hospital in Ust-Omchug was not yet a district hospital,
such a status was at the hospital in the village. Transport, and the
hospital in the village. Ust-Omchug will become a district only at the
end of 1952.
The kindergarten of the village was also subordinate
to the medical unit (sanitary department) of the TSPU, when the first
children's preschool institution appeared, it was not revealed, at least
in 1946, there was a kindergarten in Ust-Omchug, in subsequent years it
was called a children's home.
In almost all camp administrations
of Dalstroy, there were cultural teams released from work, consisting of
15-20 people who performed with concerts in all camp divisions. There
was such a brigade in Tenlage. In 1943, it was directed by a former
actor of the Kalinin Regional Drama Theatre, and at that time s/k K.A.
Nikanorov, among the actors of this brigade were prisoners of all
stripes - from thieves and deserters to "enemies of the people." After
general work at the mine. Timoshenko was an artist of the Tenkinskaya
cultural brigade from the autumn of 1943 until the autumn of 1944. The
future People's Artist of the USSR G.S. Zhzhenov. Among them were the
future soloists of D. Verdi's opera "La Traviata", staged on the Magadan
stage by L.V. Varpakhovsky in 1945, - T.E. Yakovlev and A. Gryzlov. The
programs were designed by the artist E. E. Valentinov, the future
Honored Art Worker of the Chechen-Ingush Autonomous Soviet Socialist
Republic. The artists of this cultural brigade toured the mines and
mines of Tenka with concerts, and lived in the commandant's camp.
“The jazz orchestra was the core of the cultural brigade. Half of
the musicians in it are professionals with a conservatory education.
There were two great singers. Lyric tenor T.E. Yakovlev is a
professional opera artist, brought to Kolyma almost straight from the
tour of the Bolshoi Theater in Paris. (T.E. Yakovlev before his arrest -
singer of the Red Banner Song and Dance Ensemble of the Red Army - I.G.)
Baritone Sasha Gryzlov, nicknamed "Watch" - a professional swindler, an
"honest thief", who had in his repertoire jazz songs exclusively
lyrical, a love genre, the only one allowed by the thieves' censorship
to be performed from the stage ... From the crooks there was also a
couple of dancers who "beat" dashingly gypsy dances.
"Until 1943
there was no club, all cultural and educational work was carried out in
the dining room." Later, a monument to the "father of nations" in an
overcoat and in full growth appeared in front of the club. This 310-seat
club was located on the site where the stele of Glory now stands. It
burned down in a fire in the early 1980s. The monument to Stalin was
removed, as elsewhere, after 1956.
Thanks to the GULAG (no matter
how paradoxical it sounds), the cultural life of the village in the war
and the first post-war years was at a very decent level. Many actors and
directors, musicians and artists, having served their terms in the
camps, did not have the right to leave. Remaining in such a semi-free
state, they united around themselves talented people of other
professions. Thus, orchestras, choirs, theater groups arose on the club
stages of small villages. Ust-Omchug was no exception.
One of the
talented nuggets in those years was a former prisoner, and at the end of
the war and after it, an electrician of the district GRU Vladimir
Grundman. With his enthusiasm for the theater, V. Grundman “infected”
the young front-line soldier Iya, who arrived in our village in 1945 and
became his wife. Vladimir Vladimirovich passed away a long time ago, in
2003 Iya Stepanovna Grundman passed away, having preserved in her family
archive documents about the amateur art activities of Ust-Omchug
1944-1968. - theater programs of performances and concerts printed in
the printing house, scenes from performances captured in amateur
photographs, newspaper publications about the performances of the
Ust-Omchug People's Theater. Even during her lifetime, she presented
them to the Tenkinsky Historical and Local Lore Hall. What are these
documents about?
In those years, the amateur art activities of
the central club of Ust-Omchug included a choir, various ensembles, an
orchestra and a theater. In the archive of Iya Stepanovna (I note that
it is far from complete), there are mentions of 20 performances that
took place on the club stage of our village. And the repertoire is as
follows: A. Ostrovsky - "Guilty Without Guilt", "Talents and Admirers",
"Mad Money", "Not All the Cat's Carnival"; M. Gorky - "The Last"; J.
Moliere - "The Doctor involuntarily"; Ibsen - "Nora, or a doll's house";
plays by Soviet playwrights - A. Arbuzov, S. Mikhalkov, A. Galich, Vs.
Vishnevsky, A. Kron and others.
The first artistic director and
director of many performances was Alexander Alekseevich Belov, in the
past he was an employee of the Moscow Maly Theater (his activity there,
according to I.S. Grundman, was something like teaching the artistic
word to actors). In Ust-Omchug, he also taught at school, but - biology
and Russian.
An interesting publication in the newspaper "Soviet
Kolyma" dated December 23, 1947 under the heading "Six performances",
which summarizes the results of the review of Soviet performances in the
clubs of Dalstroy. Collectives were not invited to Magadan, but “The
Commission of the Political Administration and the District Committee of
the Trade Union went to the places and watched six performances. As a
result of the review, the question was to be decided who would have the
right to defend the honor of Dalstroy's amateur art at the regional
review in Khabarovsk. It is not known from the publication who got this
right, but the most flattering reviews about the performance of our club
are “A Man from the Other World” by Vl. Dykhovichny and M. Slobodsky.
The newspaper publication contains the following lines: “The
performance, which was shown in Ust-Omchug, pleased with the unity of
all its moments, including artistic and musical design. It is a joyful
event in the life of Dalstroy. I would especially like to note the work
done by comrade. Khakham, who was the chairman of the commission for the
preparation for the review.
And not a word about the director who
staged this performance, his name is not even mentioned in the newspaper
publication, and only from the surviving theater program do we learn
that it was directed by Leonid Viktorovich Varpakhovsky. The fact is
that, in contrast to Comrade. Haham”, the famous Soviet director L.
Varpakhovsky was not a “comrade” at that time. After three arrests and
10 years in prison, at the end of 1947 he was forced to end up in
Ust-Omchug, where he worked as a director of our club until 1953. A year
later, his wife Ida Samuilovna Ziskina (Varpakhovskaya), a former Kolyma
Traviata.
A small amateur photograph is very curious: near the
poster there is a small group of amateur artists, and on the poster
there is an inscription: “Club of the village of Palatka, amateur art
group of the central club Tenka, August 16-17 - the premiere of “Mad
Money” - A. Ostrovsky, August 18 - "Ilya Golovin" - S. Mikhalkov. Here
you have a distant Kolyma village in 1950! Both performances were staged
by L. V. Varpakhovsky. The decorator was Nikolai Tikhonovsky, also a
former political prisoner. After his release, until the end of his days,
he worked in our club as a worker, supply manager, led the club in 1954,
and devoted his leisure time to his favorite work - he played in the
orchestra, designed performances, and painted posters.
Theatrical
programs have not been preserved, but only photographs of scenes from
the performances "Nora, or the Doll's House" and "House in Cherkizovo",
which, according to I.S. Grundman, designed, already mentioned here, by
the artist E.E. Valentinov.
In the past, professional actors, and
in the years described, the special settler E.P. Dokukin and former
constable A. Matusevich were also artists of club performances.
But even non-professional actors, having such teachers, played quite
professionally. Not every professional can boast of more than 20 major
roles, and that's how many roles I have played by V. V. Grundman on our
club scene in those years, and there were also performances with an
artistic word, an entertainer. When the venerable directors left, he
himself staged the play by A. Ostrovsky “Not all the cat's Shrovetide”,
where he played the role of the merchant Akhov.
And other amateur
actors enjoyed well-deserved success with the audience and critics of
those years - M. E. Pavlenin, G. A. Osepyan, E. B. Dinor, I. Shtrykov,
Z. Yushchenkova, G. Fridlender and others. I. S. Grundman said that
before going home from work, they ran into the club just like that, to
chat. How many interesting people worked there in very modest positions.
Becker worked as a stoker in the club - "culture itself", in the words
of I. S. Grundman, Mikhail Zakharov, also an amateur theater actor, was
a worker in the club. The violinist A.A. worked as a cleaner in the club
for some time in 1953 - early 1954. Dzygar, before his arrest and camp -
1st violin and accompanist of the Harbin Symphony Orchestra, laureate of
international competitions, and after Ust-Omchug - a teacher at the
Children's Music School in Magadan, accompanist and conductor of the
Magadan Regional Theater. Gorky. The pianists who were recently released
from the camp, G.G. Vetrova (before her arrest she worked with the
famous singer P. Leshchenko) and exiled to Ust-Omchug G.F. Richter
(German communist, Ph.D., associate professor of German literature and
linguistics, music teacher, wife of the repressed anti-fascist writer G.
Günther in 1936) also performed on the club stage of Ust-Omchug. In one
of the saved I. S. Grundman programs of a club concert of the early 50s.
– 3 departments and repertoire from folklore to classical music.
Although club theaters and amateur clubs in the villages were considered
amateur, as we can see, quite a few professionals also worked on their
stages.
But let's return from the club scene to the streets of
Ust-Omchug in the 1940s - early 1950s and look at it through the eyes of
the old-timers of our village. The main institution of the village is a
two-story U-shaped building of the mining department (located on the
site of the current monument to Lenin), not far from it is the
administrative building of Tenlag, followed by the police building (part
of the Tenlag building and the police building were demolished in 1996,
now there is a square), then diagonally across the road is the building
of the commandant's office (in this place there is a square in front of
the TsDiNT). A little later, in the second half of the 50s, the building
of the prosecutor's office was built (now there is a Prok store). All
this is the administrative center of our village. Another institution
from the same row is a small house of a military tribunal (a visiting
tribunal sat here), Tenkinskaya Street began from it (it was demolished
several years ago). The area of the current Rassvet store and adjacent
areas is a residential area of the VOKhRs. On the construction of a
military camp in the village. Ust-Omchug for the shooters of the Coastal
Camp and the organization of a construction site here was mentioned in a
memorandum for 1951 by the head of the Berlag, Colonel Vasilyev,
addressed to the head of the Gulag, Lieutenant General Dolgikh.
The headquarter was located on the Embankment. Yes, there was such a
street in our village. On it is the house of the head of the TSPU, built
in 1950 (until recently it was the old part of the building of the music
school, and now Variant LLC), other heads of the TSPU lived in a barrack
nearby (a former tourist center, now the building has been demolished).
At the end of the street is a small house of G.A. Kechek, leader of the
Tenkino geologists. In general, the "privileged quarter" did not look
very good either. And why was the street called Embankment, you ask,
because there is no river there? It is now gone, but then one of the
canals of the river passed through the current stadium and sports
school. Omchug. Countless canals and oxbows of Omchug were also located
on the site of the current microdistrict.
Shopping mall. In 1950,
a two-story Raduga store was built, and two years later a new grocery
store was added to it (before the fire, the Erika store).
At the
beginning of st. Gornyatskaya on the left were located TsRMM, on the
right - a power plant. At the end of Gornyatskaya there are taiga
thickets, where a convoy was located. In the subsidiary farm of
Ust-Omchug there were several heads of cows. Children and nursing
mothers were given 200 g of milk per week. The distribution of milk was
strictly monitored by the women's council of the village.
This
entire barracks center with several wooden two-story buildings is
surrounded by typical Kolyma architecture - the private sector. In the
first decade, these houses were built mainly on the left bank of one of
the Detrin channels, later called Poganka, in the area of
\u200b\u200bthe current Komsomolskaya and Detrinskaya streets.
The population of the village - s / c, former s / c, security and
contract negotiators. Among the latter are specialists and chiefs. Many
of the specialists - engineers, geologists, etc. - wore military
uniforms and had various ranks of officials of the NKVD-MVD. After all,
they are all employees of this department. There is not a single civil
authority in the village yet.
in 1950, 2945 people lived in the
village, incl. workers - 578 people, employees - 495, engineers - 356,
MOP - 118.
Ust-Omchug was the central settlement of the Tenkinsky
Mining Administration, there were 18 different enterprises and
organizations in it, both subordinate to Dalstroy and not included in
its system. The main ones were: Central Repair and Mechanical Workshops,
Housing and Communal Services, Department of Capital Construction,
Administration and Political Department of TSPU, Regional Geological
Exploration Department, 7th Communications District, Branch of the State
Bank, Regional Department of the Ministry of State Security, Savings
Bank, Sanitary Department of TSPU, etc.
In 1950, there were 171
houses in the village with a total area of 11158 m2, 3.8 square meters
of living space per 1 inhabitant.
In 1950, there were 5 boiler
houses in Ust-Omchug. Central heating is available in the production
workshops of the CRMM, hospital, dispensary, children's institutions,
administration, retail outlets and canteen, as well as in 14 residential
buildings with a living area of 4189 m2. The total length of the heating
network was 5 thousand meters. There was no water supply, sewerage and
sidewalks in the village.
There were profiled highways on three
streets: on Clubnaya, 1400 m long, River - 550 m, Tenkinskaya - 100 m.
The village was fully electrified. Ust-Omchug had its own power
plant with a capacity of 700-900 kW, the length of the power grid was 18
km.
The radio center of the village with a capacity of 300 watts
served 425 radio points. The telegraph junction had two switches with a
total capacity of 200 numbers, the length of the telephone line was 235
km.
Socio-cultural institutions of Ust-Omchug in 1950:
secondary school with a capacity of 452 people;
boarding school,
where 161 pupils lived;
hospital with 40 beds;
a polyclinic with a
monthly attendance of 41 thousand people;
kindergarten and nursery,
each with 50 seats;
club for 350 seats;
central library with
17,500 books.
In the village there was a sports base of the
voluntary society "Non-Ferrous Metals", as well as a football and
volleyball stadium and a sports town.
From public utilities in
the village worked:
bath with the number of simultaneously
washing 15 people. and a laundry with a capacity of 40 kg of linen per
shift. In October 1950, a bath-laundry under construction with a
capacity of 45 people was put into operation. simultaneously washable
and with a capacity of 100 kg of dry linen per shift;
four
hairdressing salons with a total of 7 masters and a capacity of 200
people per day;
repair and shoe and repair and repair workshops with
the number of workers employed in them 14 people with a turnover of 300
thousand rubles. per month.
The trade network of Ust-Omchug in 1950
was represented by 5 stores, their total turnover was 2000 thousand
rubles. per month, the dining room with a branch at the hotel served 300
people. The monthly turnover of the canteen was 256 thousand rubles.
In October 1950, a new bakery with a capacity of 4,500 kg was put
into operation. bread per day.
FROM SOVIET POWER TO NATURAL
CAPITALISM
December 2, 1953 Ust-Omchug becomes the administrative
center of the new Tenkinsky district, and on December 22 of the same
year it receives the status of a workers' settlement. In 1954, the first
civil authority was formed in the person of the Soviets of Working
People's Deputies. Ust-Omchug also becomes the center of the formed
Ust-Omchug village council, its first chairman was 26-year-old Avenir
Ivanovich Borisenko.
Perhaps the young enthusiasm of the
executive committee members, the expectation of greater and better
changes, allowed them at a meeting of the executive committee of the
council in July 1954 to make the following decision: subjugation and
renaming it to Omchug. Apparently, the decision of the superiors was not
positive, the village did not become a city.
Nevertheless, one of
the numerous Gulag "islands" of Kolyma is gradually turning into an
ordinary settlement, and is increasingly overgrown with "masterpieces of
architecture" in private sector areas. They were erected by people
released from the camps, many of whom, after leaving the camp, were in
exile, in a settlement, under the supervision of the commandant's
offices, where they had to report monthly. They also settled in our
village. They built housing for themselves, as it was necessary, where
it was necessary and from what it was necessary. Container boxes were
also used. The roofs were covered with wood chips. They also made
furniture themselves. Tiny, but numerous rooms and nooks and crannies of
these buildings with low ceilings, small windows and separate entrances
on all sides testify not only to the poverty of their creators. Finally
came the opportunity to be alone after the crowded camp barracks and
hostels for freemen, where even food was forbidden to cook individually.
To help the new settlers of the 1950s, it begins to produce furniture
and building parts for individual developers at the checkpoint of the
TSPU (Office of Industrial Enterprises), and TSRMM, as consumer goods,
produces scoops for extracting ash from stoves, pans, washboards, wooden
rolling pins.
The checkpoint of TSPU was formed in August 1954
through the reorganization of the former construction and maintenance
office (SEC TSPU). The TSPU checkpoint was the largest enterprise in
Ust-Omchug. It was in charge of the manufacture of consumer goods,
repair and construction work, the communal services of the village were
also included in the scope of this enterprise. Until 1957, the
checkpoint of the TSPU also included numerous logging sites of Tenka.
And it is quite strange that in March 1954 the children's center of the
district center was transferred from the sanitary department, first to
the SEC, and after the reorganization of the latter, obviously, to the
checkpoint.
In the 1950s, in Ust-Omchug, the private sector built
up the right bank of the Poganka, the area of \u200b\u200bthe current
Zelenaya, Magadanskaya, and Vostochnaya streets. The local authorities
are trying to restore order in this spontaneous construction. Let us
cite with some abbreviations and a small commentary one of the minutes
of the meeting of the executive committee of the Ust-Omchugsky Soviet of
June 1954. It is interesting not only for its history, but also for the
geography of our village reflected in it. Pay attention to where the
rivers and channels passed. His decision reads:
“Approve the
existing names of the streets of Gornyatskaya, River (since 1965, Pobeda
St.), Naberezhnaya (now the area of Kosmonavtov St.), Tenkinskaya.
Rename existing street names: Kolymskoye Highway to Magadanskaya
Street, Detrinskaya Street to Komsomolskaya.
Create new streets:
Nagornaya, Shkolnaya, Sovetskaya (running from Magadanskaya St. past the
building of the transit hotel to Shkolnaya Street), Severnaya (since
1968, Gagarin St. - I.G.), Vostochnaya (running from Detrinskaya Protoka
to the south of Komsomolskaya Street) , Green, Worker, Pioneer,
Proletarian, Builders (on the territory of bonds), Army (on the
territory of OLP No. 11), Rural (at the Agrobase SEK), Road (at the DEU
TSPU) (since 1958, mine, in honor of the mine based here "Cheerful" - I.
G.), New (behind the Detrinsky bridge).
Create new lanes: Lesnoy
(going from the transit hotel to the northwest), Omchugsky, Parkovy
(going from Severnaya Street to Shkolnaya), Nizhny, Yuzhny, Sadovy,
Bolnichny, Protochny, Zapasnoy (going from Shkolnaya St. to Shkolnaya
St.). Soviet)".
(True, the fact that Agrobaza was renamed into
Selskaya Street, apparently, was forgotten, since in 1958, by decision
of the executive committee of the council, it was again given this name
- Selskaya Street).
By the decision of the council in the summer
of 1954, the passage for trucks along the street was closed.
Gornyatskaya, and from the same year a regular passenger service between
Magadan and Ust-Omchug was opened for the first time.
And if the
population of Ust-Omchug in 1954 was about 5 thousand people, then by
the end of 1956 it was already 7.2 thousand.
Despite the fact
that the TSPU was still the most powerful economic organization, an
“exodus” began from under its monopoly. In March 1954, departments of
the district executive committee were formed - health, education,
culture, trade, agriculture. Relevant institutions and enterprises are
transferred from TSPU under their authority. In 1954, the construction
of the administrative building of the district committee of the trade
union and the central library began, the first stone building of
Ust-Omchug (the current building of the regional library), however,
construction was completed not in 1955, as planned, but only in 1960.
Although, perhaps, in there is an error in the BTI certificate, since
this building is in the photo of 1958.
The Bolshevik newspaper
from January 1954 changes its name to Leninskoye Znamya, and from
February 25, 1954, it becomes not an organ of the political department
of the TGPS (TGPU), but an organ of the RK CPSU and the district council
of working people's deputies (which, however, did not change much , to
say the least). It is difficult to say when the secrecy in the newspaper
exceeded common sense, I happened to see only some copies of the Soviet
Kolyma for 1944, the district newspaper for 1946 and the binder of the
Lenin Banner for 1954. The farther from the war, the more secret the
newspapers became publications. In 1944, the mine is called a mine, a
mine is a mine, respectively, with its name; in 1946 everything was
depersonalized by the word “enterprise”, but at least with a name, for
example, enterprise named after. Budyonny. In 1954 - the apogee of
secrecy, only the enterprise, no matter what - mining or bath-laundry,
and where it was located, the reader had to guess by the name of his
boss. In general, a classic example of bird language. I can't help but
quote him. In those years, it was customary to print announcements about
the dissolution of marriage between spouses. Here is one of many: “A
citizen ... living in the village of an enterprise where the head of
Comrade. Trifonov, filed a divorce case with a citizen ... living in the
village of the institution where the head of Comrade. Zhukovsky. The
normal address was indicated only if it was Magadan or another city in
the USSR. Or the beginning of a newspaper article: “In the village of
the workshop, led by Comrade. Pevzner (an enterprise where Comrade
Primakov is the head) built a new outpatient clinic building. Translated
into a normal language, it would sound: “In the village of Factory built
...”. Often newspaper publications in 1954 about the production
successes of the miners were signed - “A. Kovinko, site economist. The
surname of the Ukrainian writer-satirist Alexander Ivanovich Kovinko as
a s/k of the mine named after. Budyonny had to be met in the memoirs of
his countrymen. In what enterprise he worked as an economist, it was
impossible to understand from the newspaper. And only from archival
documents by the name of the head of the mine, which was in that year
(and they changed very often), we managed to find out that everything
was there, at the mine. Budyonny. The entire newspaper is written in
this language. To be fair, I must say that there are exceptions.
Elections were held three times in 1954 - to the Supreme Soviet of the
USSR, to people's courts, to the district Soviet of Working People's
Deputies - as you can see, "national holidays" were often held before.
The newspaper printed lists of polling stations and districts. Here the
settlements were called by their proper names, so at least you can find
out what kind of villages our area then made up, but you still won’t
know what enterprises were there (after all, the enemy is not asleep!).
But we will continue our journey through Ust-Omchug. On the site of
the former vegetable gardens (now the administrative building of the
former GOK, bank and court) next to the club, the Metallurg stadium
appears with a front entrance decorated with sculptures of athletes,
along the hospital campus there was a sports shooting range. An
indispensable component of all village demonstrations during public
holidays was a column of motorcyclists from the DSO Metallurg with
flags. Campaign motorcycle races were also popular. In December 1955,
according to other sources, in September 1956, the Children's and Youth
Sports School began to work in the village.
At the end of June
1956, Ten'lag was closed, and with it the camp zones. The name
"Komendantsky" in relation to the nearest settlement of Ust-Omchuga has
become obsolete, and it was renamed the village. Zarechny. Only here,
with regard to the year of renaming, there are discrepancies - in 1957
and in 1960. Since 1979, the village. Zarechny became st. Zarechnoy
Ust-Omchuga.
In the summer of 1957, a culture and recreation park
was opened in Ust-Omchug.
1957 was a year of great
reorganizations in the Magadan region. Dalstroy was liquidated, and with
it all mining and industrial departments, including TSPU, ceased to
exist. The Magadan Economic Council was formed, in direct subordination
to which all the mines and mines passed. And in 1960, branch management
of industry returned again. The regional mining departments were
recreated, now under the auspices of Severovostokzoloto. In our area it
is TRGPU. Other large enterprises also reorganized. The Tenkinsky office
of industrial enterprises in Ust-Omchug was reorganized into the
Tenkinsky construction office, and from June 1, 1960, its name was
changed to the Tenkinsky construction department (TSU). In March 1959,
the VKrayGRU was reorganized, it became known as the Tenkinskaya complex
expedition, and a little later the word "geological exploration" (TKGE)
was added to the name. And if we continue this topic, we can say that in
February 1964 the oldest enterprise of our village TsRMM (later TRMM)
changed its sign to TRMP (Tenkinsky Mechanical Repair Plant).
On
October 20, 1958, the first broadcast of the regional radio broadcast
went on the air, not only in the village of Ust-Omchug, as it was in the
1940s, but for the entire region. F. F. Bezbabichev was the organizer,
the first and long-term editor of the regional radio broadcasting.
Probably, there is not a single old-timer in Ust-Omchug, and even in the
region, who would not know him.
Fedor Fedorovich Bezbabichev.
Born in 1904 in a peasant family in the Lipetsk province. At the age of
16 he became a Red Army soldier, at 17 - a member of the CPSU. Then he
worked at party work and as a journalist. All his life he was
fanatically devoted to the Communist Party and selflessly served it. He
is a participant in the suppression of "kulak revolts" during the years
of collectivization and a fighter against "leftist bends" of the first
secretary of one of the Siberian regional committees of the party, an
apologist for the Stakhanov movement in the Urals, in 1937 he himself
was repressed and spent 10 years in camps, including a large part of the
term - in the camps of Tenka. After being released in 1947 and
rehabilitated in 1956, he fought for reinstatement in the ranks of the
party, was reinstated and was an active communist in the district party
organization. He first worked as a rate-setter in a construction
organization, and since 1958 as an editor of the regional radio
broadcasting organized by him. A great bookworm, all his wealth was
books, unmercenary (he gave numerous expensive gifts for anniversaries
to kindergartens, repeatedly refused an apartment, and so he lived in a
barrack until his death). He loved our region very much, dreamed and
made attempts to create a museum of the region to educate the younger
generation in the spirit of patriotism, using the examples of pioneer
geologists and devoted communists. His radio rubric "Live Pages of
Tenka's History" is evidence of this.
On the eve of May Day,
April 30, 1959, a monument to Lenin was solemnly opened in front of the
club building, where a few years earlier a monument to Stalin had stood
on the same pedestal. In 1959, a new hostel was built for the boarding
school (now it is the building of the district administration). And it
was the first three-story building in our village.
Little was
built yet, more often social facilities were opened in adapted premises.
In January 1960, the doors of the Children's Music School were opened in
the former mansion of the head of the TSPU. 1 teacher and 18 students -
that was the start. In the next academic year - 85 students, and 40 more
applications were submitted for the evening department for adults. Then
the school was completed twice, in 1963 and 1970, since it no longer
accommodated everyone who wanted to study there. In 1970 there were 11
teachers and 176 students in the Children's Music School.
In the
mid-1960s, the House of Pioneers and a children's library were opened in
adapted premises.
New enterprises are being formed in Ust-Omchug.
Small enterprises united their fleets and formed a branch of motor depot
No. 1 (Palatkinskaya). In 1960, the branch had 102 trucks. In 1961, the
Tenkinskaya motor depot was formed from the branch. In September 1960,
the Kulinskaya LZK was reorganized into the Tenkinsky logging enterprise
with a base in Ust-Omchug, and in April 1963, the Tenkinsky and
Omsukchansky logging enterprises merged into one - Central, with a base
in Ust-Omchug. At the beginning of 1961, the Kurchatov mine was moved to
Zarechny. In the 1960s, a repair and construction department, a consumer
services complex, etc. were formed.
In 1962, a training and
course plant began to work to train young people in mining professions -
bulldozers, drillers, explosives, drivers.
In 1960, a runway was
built in Ust-Omchug to receive small planes, and the first planes
appeared. In 1966, we had our own aviation unit. Maria Semyonovna
Pashkevich, the commander of the An-2 aircraft, a participant in the
Great Patriotic War, a pilot since 1940, stood at the origins of
Tenkinskaya aviation.
Residential buildings continued to be
built. In the 1960s, their appearance changed. These are no longer
barracks with conveniences in the yard, but mostly wooden two-story
buildings, however, with partial communal amenities - cold water, a
toilet and a separate kitchen in each apartment. Only for 1964-1966.
about 20 houses were sold. They are being built on Komsomolskaya, on
Sovetskaya, on Zarechnaya, a new lane is emerging - Yubileiny. The dream
of our fellow countrymen is getting an apartment in a house with a
bathroom, however, with water heating in titanium. New public facilities
are also being built - kindergartens (at the end of Gagarin Street), a
school for 964 places (1966) (now there is a Center for Additional
Education), a restaurant (1960).
1967 is the anniversary year of
the 50th anniversary of Soviet power, and it is customary to celebrate
anniversaries with labor gifts. In Ust-Omchug this year a new club on
Zarechnaya, a cinema "Rossiya", a residential building with a large
department store "Rassvet" built on the ground floor, a four-story house
with a deli "Central" on the first floor (commissioned in 1969) were put
into operation. ). In 1967, the first automatic telephone exchange in
the region was installed in Ust-Omchug. Such small achievements in the
age of “mobile phones” of modern youth probably seem like a trifle, but
it was a connection with the “mainland”. The construction of a radio
relay line has begun so that we can watch TV programs. This significant
event, without which we cannot imagine our life now, took place in
Ust-Omchug on March 16, 1969, just on the day of the elections to the
local Soviets. And another remarkable event in 1967 - most enterprises
switched to a five-day work week with two days off.
In 1968, the
first building of the poultry farm was built on the right bank of the
Detrin (the former Anmannandzha site), and the central estate of the
Tenkinsky state farm was transferred from the village. Chalbukhan in
Ust-Omchug. The state farm is reorganized into a specialized poultry
farm "Tenkinsky" with subordination to the Magadan trust "Ptitseprom".
I would like to recall the names of some of our honorary countrymen,
whose work was awarded high government awards in the 1960s. These are
the “Kurchatovites” I.A. Belyakov, G.M. Voinov, P.G. Kuzmichenko, A.N.
Reshetnitsky, V.I. Sergeev, I.P. Ushakov, head of the TKGE S.S. Kolchin,
carpenter TRSU S.A. Sysoev, pediatrician R.V. Belousova, broadcasting
editor F.F. Bezbabichev, commander of the police department B.N.
Belyaev, N.M. Ilyukhin with TRMP, A.E. Mironov and V.P. Zakharov from
the Tenkinskaya motor depot.
In the 1960s and subsequent years,
the population of the village is no longer growing at the expense of
former prisoners, young specialists and skilled workers come here. The
North attracts not only with romance, but also with high wages and
northern benefits. There is an acute problem of lack of housing. To
replenish the housing stock, without reducing the existing one, it is
possible only by building up vacant plots, and there are no such plots
within the boundaries of the old building. Otherwise, you will have to
stir up the "anthills" of people who live so closely. It was then that
they made a bold and difficult decision - to build up the floodplain of
the Omchug River, separated from the channel by a dam, with typical
five-story buildings. At the origins of the construction of the
microdistrict were the architect of the district A.V. Shein, chairman of
the district executive committee M.A. Petrov, head of TSU A.I. Lyamov,
TSU chief engineer P. S. Tenenbaum, head of the design and estimate
department of the TSPU Tretyakov, and design engineer at the district
architecture Polzunov1. In 1969, the construction of the Ust-Omchug
"cheryomushki" began. At first timidly, three-, then four-story
building, and then five-story houses went. Every year they got better
and better. On the ground floor of some houses there are built-in
spacious shops, a hairdresser's, a TV and radio workshop. In 1971, a new
dormitory building was built for the boarding school, the old building
of the boarding school was occupied by the Tenkinsky district executive
committee (now it is the district administration). By the 30th
anniversary of the Victory, a new street appeared in Ust-Omchug - Mira
Street, expanded its territory and st. Victory.
In the 1970s, a
new Sports Palace and a new stadium near the park, a new hospital
building and a clinic on the first floor of a new residential building
were built in Ust-Omchug. A central boiler house, a new bathhouse and a
laundry room, and even a flower greenhouse next to the bathhouse were
built, where one could buy a bouquet of flowers even in winter. On the
site of the former stadium, new production buildings for the Tenkinsky
GOK (as the former TRGPU became known since 1970) and the district
committee of the CPSU have grown. Next to the first administrative
building of our village, the former TSPU, and in the 1950s-1960s it
housed almost all the institutions of Ust-Omchug (the district
committees of the CPSU and the Komsomol, the district executive
committee, part of the geological exploration expedition, the trading
office of the URS and many even smaller organizations) a three-story
building was built for the Tenkinskaya geological exploration
expedition. A lot of housing was built by household organizations and
enterprises of the village on Zavodskaya and Zarechnaya streets.
Our village grew and improved. New residential buildings grew in the
microdistrict, their comfort improved. Instead of the cramped stove-top
kitchens and titanium bathrooms (both requiring wood) of the 1960s and
early 1970s, the kitchens now had modern electric stoves and hot water
taps. In 1980, another new school (boarding school) was built in the
microdistrict, it was connected by a warm passage with the dormitory
building of the boarding school built earlier. New hospital buildings, 3
new kindergartens in the microdistrict and one in the park, a bank
building, a communications center, a large restaurant in the center of
the village, specialized stores have grown.
In the 1980s, the
population of Ust-Omchug was stably 10 thousand, reaching a maximum in
1989 - 11.3 thousand people.
In 1986, many of our countrymen were
awarded orders and medals for their labor achievements. Orders were
received by TSU carpenter E.V. Nozhkin, drilling foreman TGRE S.A.
Martoyan and foreman of drillers N.A. Tokarenko, foreman of the state
farm "Tenkinsky" N.N. Zhuravleva and milkmaid V.S. Gurskaya, foreman of
KBO tailors N.M. Kuzmenko, teacher T.Yu. Prozorova and pediatrician G.A.
Balashov.
The joy of the transformations, the confidence that it
will be even better in the future, was imprinted on the pages of the
regional newspaper in 1974 in the publication of P.P. Kozlov, at that
time the district architect, and 20 years later - the chairman of the
Tenkinsky district executive committee.
“... Ust-Omchug is
already a city, it has more than 20 thousand inhabitants. Numerous
five-story houses adorn the streets. Particularly attractive is the
central street - Victory.
Gornyatskaya also looks unusual. Here
you will not see barrack-type houses - these unsightly houses have long
been demolished, in their place there are beautiful multi-storey
buildings.
... We go into one of the apartments. The height of
the rooms is striking. It is almost half a meter higher than in
apartments built 20 years ago... Built-in furniture is installed in all
rooms. There are also rooms for drying outerwear.
... Here is a
group of schoolchildren rushing to the swimming pool, which is located
on the banks of the Detrin River. The holiday is approaching - New Year
1994. Citizens acquire fluffy Christmas trees grown in the forestry
nursery. There is a brisk trade in numerous shops.
Most of the
streets of the city are concreted, cars of different brands scurry along
them. Guests from various cities of the country and villages of the
region are visiting the city together with us. They stopped at a new,
comfortable hotel.
The journey through the city of the future
lasts several hours, and we are surprised to notice that there is no
wind on its streets. Yes, the wind will not break into the city now.
Multi-story windproof buildings built on the outskirts, thoughtful
residential complexes protect the city from gusts of icy wind. And we
are returning to the present to tell people about the future of
Ust-Omchug, which will become a reality.”
Well, the reader,
smiled bitterly? Let's go back to the present. Maybe not everyone in the
1970s believed in these projects, but the most pessimistic of all
pessimists could not have imagined what would become like now. Although
in some ways Pavel Petrovich turned out to be right - this is about
"numerous shops", more precisely - shops scattered around the basements
and first floors of buildings. Every summer, separate pieces of the
walls of the first floors of buildings bloom with all kinds of colors of
the most "poisonous" shades, according to the tastes of their
"designers" - the owners of these shops. And cars of different brands
appeared, only they scurry along the potholes of our roads, raising
dust.
In the early 1990s, they were completing what had already
been started a long time ago - the House of Culture and several
residential buildings. The last house in Ust-Omchug was built in 1993 on
the street. Gornyatskaya, 49a, and from non-residential in 1995 they
finished rebuilding the long-suffering bathhouse. But it still failed to
finish everything that had been started. One of the unfinished boxes for
several years blackened with failures of window openings, which never
became windows, until it was dismantled and transported to the Shkolny
mine, and the other (one of the hospital buildings under construction)
still stands unfinished. For years, a tower crane looming near it then
rusted for a long time on the ground, laid next to an unfinished
building.
The population is declining, as of January 1, 2004,
4600 inhabitants remained in Ust-Omchug, which is already less than the
level of 1954.
In the 1990s, the GOK, the Kurchatovsky mine, both
expeditions, TSU and TRSU, the Mining Equipment Repair Shop (former
TRMP), the timber industry and state farm, the motor depot and many
other enterprises and organizations disappeared. Some enterprises and
fields of activity have disappeared completely, such as geological
exploration, logging, agriculture, others have been transformed into
numerous economic entities, their number goes to hundreds. They grow
like mushrooms and disappear like mushrooms in autumn. New institutions
also appeared, for example, the employment service. In the old days,
such a service was simply not needed, since there was enough work for
everyone. At first, a numerous tax service and tax police appeared, but
somewhere they decided that it was unprofitable to have such a service
in the region and transferred it to a neighboring region, shifting this
burden onto “economic entities” - let them go to us themselves.
In Ust-Omchug and the region there are not enough qualified doctors,
teachers, the population has long forgotten about such a boon of
civilization as dry cleaning, there was no hot water for several years,
constant problems with heating. Mail is delivered twice a week. Now this
is our reality.
Buildings where organizations and children's
institutions were once located are now occupied by other departments.
Where the expedition was, now the police, the children's polyclinic -
the military registration and enlistment office, the bookstore - a
commercial bank, the children's library - the "labor exchange", the
district committee of the CPSU - the court. Reminds me of the 1950s,
only with the opposite sign. There are no buildings left of many other
institutions and organizations. Ruins and ashes, but wastelands. Now, as
in the late 1960s, the problem of building sites would not arise, only
there is no one to build. Garages and ancillary industries have invaded
the territories of the former kindergartens near the park and in the
park, disfiguring the already unattractive appearance of our village. In
the center of the village, where there was once a restaurant and a
shopping area, now, like a decoration for the "White Sun of the Desert",
huge capacities of an electric boiler house rise. Not to fat, I would
live, but hot water appeared. There are worse corners in Ust-Omchug.
There is a bitter joke among my countrymen. When someone leaves the
village, they advise: “Take Zarechnaya or Zavodskaya Street as a
souvenir so that nostalgia does not torment you.” Because they look like
Stalingrad in the newsreels of the war years.
On the godless
earth, new things also appeared. In the building of the abandoned repair
and construction department, there is now a Protestant church, and
between the court, the police and the monument to Lenin, there is a tiny
Orthodox church. That's just "will Varlaam street lead to the temple?".
There is no route transport inside the village. The village
administration ignores this issue, despite the large stretch of the
settlement.
There is a regular transport connection with the
regional center (Magadan) and the village. them. Matrosov.
Social infrastructure
The village has a school for 600 people, a
kindergarten, a central district hospital, and a children's art
palace.
Ust-Omchug has a cold climate and a
significant amount of precipitation, even in dry months it often
rains. According to the Köppen climate classification, it is a
subarctic climate (Dfc index) with uniform moisture and painfully
cold winters.
Average annual air temperature - -8.9 ° C
Relative air humidity - 74.5%
Average wind speed - 3.5 m / s
Mining and processing plant
Mining Equipment Repair
Shop
Lespromkhoz
JSC "Electrum-plus"