Volgoverkhovie or Volgoverkhovye (Volgino Verkhovye) is a village in the Ostashkovsky district of the Tver region, 42 kilometers north-west of Ostashkov. The village is known for the fact that next to it is the source of the Volga, it is an attractive place for tourists.
The main attraction of the village and the local natural monument
is the source of the Volga. It is believed to be located in a swamp
250 meters from the village, at 228 meters above sea level. In the
middle of the swamp, on a clean and deep "bog spring", there is a
chapel connected to the shore by a wooden deck. In 1999, Patriarch
Alexy II consecrated the source of the Volga.
The first
monastery at the source of the Volga was founded as a male monastery
(Volgoverkhovsky Transfiguration Monastery) in the middle of the
17th century. by decree of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. It existed
until the beginning of the 18th century, gradually falling into
decay. In 1724, after a big fire, it was abolished. A new revival of
the monastery began in 1907 as a women's community in the
Volgoverkhovye, which was assigned to the Vyshnevolotsk Kazan
Convent. Soon (in the same year) the Olginsky community received the
status of a monastery and became independent. In the 1920s the
monastery was closed. In the 1960s, there was an attempt to create a
historical and cultural reserve on its basis. In the 1990s, the
monastery was returned to the diocese and renewed as a convent.
The first bridge across the Volga
The first bridge from the
source across the Volga is located in the village. The bridge is
wooden, about 2 m long, with handrails. Used for pedestrian traffic.
The bridge at this place has been known since at least 1910, when it
was captured in photographs by famous Russian photographers S.M.
Prokudin-Gorsky and M.P.Dmitriev.
Not far from the first
bridge over the Volga, there is a memorial stone erected on June 22,
1989. The inscription is carved on the stone:
Traveler! Turn your eyes to the source of the Volga! Here the purity and greatness of the Russian land is born. Here are the origins of the people's soul. Keep them safe. This stone was laid on June 22, 1989 for the living and future children of Russia. Look around when you leave.
The first dam across the Volga
The first dam from the source
across the Volga is located in the village. The dam, built at the
beginning of the 20th century by the Olginsky women's monastery, is
a wooden structure with pedestrian traffic.
Volgoverkhovye is a small village in the Ostashkovsky urban district
of the Tver region, located 42 km northwest of the city of Ostashkov.
Its history is inextricably linked with the source of the Volga, one of
the greatest rivers in Russia, making this place significant both in
natural and cultural terms.
Ancient period and early development
The territory of Volgoverkhovye, located on the Valdai Hills, has been
inhabited since ancient times. Archaeological evidence indicates the
presence of people here as early as the Neolithic era (about 5-3
thousand years BC), when tribes of hunters and fishermen lived near
lakes and swamps. However, the first written records of settlements in
this area date back to a much later time. Until the 17th century, the
area remained sparsely populated, covered with dense forests and swamps,
where the Volga began its journey - from a small spring at an altitude
of 228 meters above sea level.
17th century: the foundation of
the monastery
The history of Volgoverkhovye as a settlement begins in
1649, when by decree of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the Volgoverkhovskiy
Preobrazhensky Monastery was founded here. The monastery was located
near the source of the Volga, which was already considered a sacred
place. The monastery became a spiritual and economic center, and
peasants began to settle around it. However, in 1724 or 1727 (data
differ), a fire destroyed the monastery, and by 1740 it was officially
abolished. On its lands, the village of Volgino Verkhovye arose, where
peasants previously assigned to the Selizharovsky Monastery were
resettled.
19th century: development and decline
In the 19th
century, Volgoverkhovye remained a quiet peasant village, whose
inhabitants were engaged in agriculture, fishing and forestry. The
source of the Volga already attracted the attention of travelers and
scientists, but the village did not become a major center. During this
period, there was a wooden chapel over the spring, built in the 18th
century, which emphasized the spiritual significance of the place.
Beginning of the 20th century: Olginsky Monastery
In 1906, the
Volgoverkhovskaya Spaso-Preobrazhenskaya Women's Community, founded with
funds from benefactors and local residents, appeared at the source of
the Volga. In 1909, it received the status of a monastery, and in 1912
it was renamed the Volgoverkhovskiy Olginsky Women's Monastery in honor
of the Holy Equal-to-the-Apostles Princess Olga. The monastery built the
first dam across the Volga - a wooden structure for economic needs,
which has survived to this day. However, the First World War and the
Revolution of 1917 interrupted the development of the monastery. In
1918, the monastery was closed, the nuns organized an agricultural
cooperative, which existed until 1924.
Soviet period
In the
1930s, Volgoverkhovye became part of a collective farm, and the source
of the Volga was planned to be made part of a historical and cultural
reserve. However, these plans were thwarted by the Great Patriotic War.
In late 1941 - early 1942, the area was occupied by German troops, the
chapel at the source was burned, and the area was damaged. After the
war, the village began to decline: the population decreased due to the
outflow to the cities. If in 1950 there were 72 people living here, then
by 1969 there were 39, and by the end of the 20th century there were
only 9. In 1972, the source of the Volga received the status of a nature
reserve, which attracted attention to Volgoverkhovye as a tourist
destination.
Modernity
In 1999, the Olginsky Monastery was
revived, and since then it has been gradually restored, becoming the
spiritual center of the region. The 2010 census showed that there were
no permanent residents left in Volgoverkhovye, but in the summer the
village comes to life thanks to summer residents and tourists. Today it
is one street with 10-15 houses, a store and a dirt road from Ostashkov
(built in 1962). The main attractions - the source of the Volga with a
restored chapel, the first dam and the monastery - attract travelers
interested in nature and history.
Location
Volgoverkhovye is located in the northwestern part of the
Tver region, 42 km northwest of the town of Ostashkov and about 350 km
northwest of Moscow. The geographical coordinates of the village are
57°17′ north latitude and 32°53′ east longitude. It is located on the
border with the Novgorod region, near the village of Svapushche (15 km)
and the village of Novy Bor (5 km). The source of the Volga, the main
natural attraction, lies 1 km northeast of the village, at the edge of a
marshy area.
Relief
Volgoverkhovye is located on the Valdai
Hills, one of the highest areas of the East European Plain:
Altitude above sea level: The village is located at an altitude of about
220–225 meters, and the source of the Volga itself is at 228 meters,
making it one of the highest points in the river basin.
Features: The
relief is hilly, with gentle uplands and lowlands. The area around the
source is a swampy basin surrounded by low ridges covered with forest.
The slopes are soft, which makes it easy to access the spring, but makes
the soil damp.
Water resources
Volgoverkhovye is connected to
the source of the Volga, which begins from a small spring in a swamp
surrounded by lakes:
Source of the Volga: The spring flows out of
the ground, forming a stream 20-30 cm wide and up to 10 cm deep. After
100 meters, it flows into Lake Malye Verkhity, then into Lake Sterzh,
where the Volga gains strength as a river.
Lakes: Within a radius of
2-3 km from the village are the lakes Malye Verkhity, Bolshiye Verkhity
and Sterzh - part of the Upper Volga lake system. They are fed by
underground springs and swamps.
Rivers: In addition to the Volga,
there are small streams in the area that flow into lakes and swamps.
Climate
The climate of the Volgoverkhovye region is moderately
continental, with features of a humid forest type:
Winter: Cold
and snowy (November–March), the average temperature in January is
-9…-11°C, with frosts down to -25°C. Snow cover lasts about 4–5 months.
Summer: Short and cool (June–August), the average temperature in July is
+16…+18°C, rarely above +25°C. Rains are frequent.
Precipitation:
About 650–700 mm per year, with a peak in July–August. In spring and
autumn, the area is damp due to the proximity of swamps.
Winds:
Predominantly western and northwestern, softened by forests.
Soils and vegetation
Soils: Podzolic and marshy soils predominate,
poor in nutrients due to leaching. Farming is difficult, but possible on
small plots.
Vegetation: About 70% of the territory is covered by
mixed forests - pine, spruce, birch, aspen. In the lowlands - marsh
vegetation (sedge, moss, wild rosemary). Willows and shrubs grow along
streams and lakes. The forests are rich in mushrooms and berries
(blueberries, lingonberries).
Natural features
Marshes: The source of the Volga is surrounded by
marshy terrain, which makes the approach to it difficult without wooden
footbridges built for tourists.
Protected area: Since 1972, the
source of the Volga is a nature reserve, which protects forests and
reservoirs from economic activity.
Fauna: Elks, hares, foxes can be
found, and waterfowl (ducks, herons) can be found in the swamps.
Transport geography
The Volgoverkhovye is located far from major
highways, which emphasizes its isolation:
Roads: A dirt road from
Ostashkov (42 km), built in 1962, leads through the village of
Svapushche. The condition worsens in the rain and in winter.
Railway:
The nearest station is Ostashkov (Bologoye-Velikiye Luki line), from
where you need to go by car or bus.
Access: The main route is through
Ostashkov, the nearest large city with bus service.
Ecology
The ecological situation is favorable: there is no industry, the air is
clean, forests and swamps preserve biodiversity. The only threat is
household waste from tourists, but the reserve is controlled by the
authorities.