The Vysočina Region (Czech: Kraj Vysočina, literally meaning
"Highlands Region") is one of the administrative regions of the
Czech Republic. Situated in the central part of the country, it
lies along the historical border between Bohemia and Moravia,
serving as a natural divide between these two historic
territories.
The region is almost entirely encompassed by the
Bohemian-Moravian Highlands (Czech: Českomoravská vrchovina or
Českomoravská Vysočina), a major geomorphological area and
extensive highland plateau. This upland stretches for more than
150 kilometers (approximately 93 miles) in length — and in some
sources up to around 200 km — and varies in width from about 35
to 50 miles. Its name derives directly from this prominent,
elongated range of rolling hills and low mountains.
The
landscape features undulating terrain with densely forested
areas, numerous meadows, small rivers, and elevations typically
ranging from 600 to 750 meters (about 2,000 to 2,500 feet) above
sea level. The highest points include Javořice (837 m / 2,746
ft) in the southern Jihlava Heights and Devět skal (836 m /
2,744 ft) in the northern Žďár Heights. This rugged, hilly
countryside forms an important watershed between the Elbe (Labe)
River system to the north and the Danube system to the south.
The region's name "Vysočina" itself comes from the colloquial
Czech term for these highlands (vysočina meaning "highlands" or
"uplands"), reflecting its dominant geographical character. With
its capital in Jihlava, the Vysočina Region covers an area of
approximately 6,796 km² and has a population of around 518,000
people (as of recent estimates).
Jihlava — The vibrant regional capital and one
of the oldest royal mining towns in the Czech Republic. Silver mining
began here in the 13th century, leading to the establishment of the
country's first codified mining laws, which influenced other mining
settlements across Central Europe. Today, it blends historic charm with
modern amenities.
Chotěboř — A pleasant town offering a relaxed atmosphere
and access to the surrounding natural beauty of the highlands.
Dačice
— Known for its exceptionally well-preserved historic town center,
featuring classic architecture that transports visitors back to earlier
centuries.
Havlíčkův Brod — A historic town with
a rich cultural heritage, including notable architecture and connections
to Czech literary figures.
Humpolec — A quaint
town that serves as a gateway to the scenic countryside.
Nové
Město na Moravě — Popular for its folk traditions,
winter sports (including the famous Vysočina Arena for biathlon), and
picturesque setting.
Pelhřimov — Features an
interesting historic core and is near attractive natural areas with
hiking opportunities.
Telč — One of the most
beautiful towns in the entire Czech Republic, renowned for its perfectly
preserved Renaissance town center. The UNESCO-listed triangular market
square is lined with colorful burgher houses under arcades, surrounded
by shallow man-made fishponds (originally defensive lakes) that reflect
the architecture beautifully.
Třebíč — Home to
one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, inscribed on the
UNESCO World Heritage List alongside the adjacent Jewish Cemetery and
the Romanesque-Gothic Basilica of St. Procopius. This ensemble
highlights centuries of harmonious coexistence between Jewish and
Christian communities.
Třešt — A charming
small town with traditional architecture and a peaceful vibe.
Velká
Bíteš — A historic settlement strategically located at
the border between the Vysočina highlands and South Moravia, right along
the country's major D1 highway, making it a convenient stop.
Velké Meziříčí — An appealing town with historic
elements and proximity to rivers and green landscapes.
Žďár nad Sázavou — Features the stunning
Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk at Zelená Hora (Green Hill), a
UNESCO-listed masterpiece of Baroque Gothic architecture designed by Jan
Blažej Santini-Aichel. Its unique star-shaped design and symbolic
elements make it one of the most original religious buildings in Europe.
Žďár Highlands (Žďárské vrchy) — A scenic protected area of forested
hills, ideal for hiking, cycling, and enjoying unspoiled nature with
panoramic views.
Iron Mountains (Železné hory) — Another beautiful
natural region with rolling terrain, forests, and opportunities for
outdoor activities amid peaceful countryside.
Ledeč nad Sázavou
Castle — A picturesque historic castle overlooking the Sázava River,
adding to the region's collection of medieval and Renaissance landmarks.
Vysočina Region (Kraj Vysočina, or Highlands Region) is a modern
administrative unit in the Czech Republic, established in 2000 as one of
14 kraje (regions) during the country's post-communist territorial
reform. Its territory spans the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands
(Českomoravská vrchovina or colloquially Vysočina), a geomorphological
macroregion of rolling hills, low mountains, dense forests, and river
sources that historically formed a natural watershed and border zone
between Bohemia (west) and Moravia (east). The region's capital is
Jihlava, and it includes districts such as Jihlava, Havlíčkův Brod,
Pelhřimov, Třebíč, and Žďár nad Sázavou.
The area's history reflects
its challenging geography—higher altitude (averaging 600–750 m), colder
climate, and formerly heavily forested terrain—which made it less
suitable for large-scale agriculture than lowland Bohemia or Moravia.
This led to slower early settlement, reliance on forestry, mining,
crafts, and later light industry, with significant medieval German
colonization and a mix of Czech-Moravian cultural influences. The region
now hosts three UNESCO World Heritage Sites (the most of any Czech
region), underscoring its rich architectural and cultural legacy.
Prehistory and Early Settlement (Pre-13th Century)
Human activity
in the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands dates back to prehistoric times, with
sporadic evidence of settlement and deforestation from the Bronze Age
onward, though the area remained largely forested and sparsely populated
compared to surrounding lowlands. Floodplain deposits (e.g., along
streams like Bukov Brook) show limited prehistoric human impact,
including some cultivation and prospecting, but no dense communities.
Slavic tribes settled the broader area by the early Middle Ages,
establishing market villages along trade routes. The highlands served as
a transitional zone between Bohemia and Moravia, with early
Christianization tied to the broader Czech lands under the Přemyslid
dynasty.
Major permanent settlement accelerated only in the High
Middle Ages through systematic colonization, driven by the Kingdom of
Bohemia’s expansion, population growth, and economic incentives like
mining. German-speaking settlers from Bavaria, Saxony, and elsewhere
were invited for their expertise in mining and forest clearance, laying
the foundation for many towns and creating German-language enclaves that
persisted into the 20th century.
High Middle Ages: Colonization,
Mining, and Urban Foundations (13th–14th Centuries)
The 13th century
marked the transformative “mining boom” and medieval colonization wave.
Silver deposits discovered around 1234 near a Slavic market village led
to the rapid founding of Jihlava (German: Iglau) as a royal mining town
between 1233 and 1240—the oldest mining settlement in the Czech lands.
King Wenceslaus I (Ottokar II’s era) granted royal privileges,
fortifications, and a rectangular street plan with a vast central
square. Jihlava received the first codified mining law in Central Europe
(Ius Regale Montanorum), which became a model for other mines. It boomed
as one of Bohemia’s most powerful cities, minting coins and attracting
German settlers who formed a significant community. By the late 13th
century, Jihlava was a key economic hub on the Bohemia-Moravia border.
Other settlements emerged similarly:
The Cistercian monastery at
Žďár nad Sázavou (founded 1252) spurred a market town (mentioned 1293),
later a full town in 1607.
Třebíč grew around a Benedictine monastery
(established 1101; town rights 1277), gaining fortifications and
commercial importance; its Jewish community is documented from 1338.
Telč (first mentioned 1335, legendary founding 1099) developed a Gothic
castle and water fortifications in the 14th century.
Towns like
Pelhřimov and Havlíčkův Brod (formerly Německý Brod) arose along trade
routes, with German colonization linked to forest exploitation and
mining.
The highlands’ rivers (Sázava, Jihlava, Svratka) and
watershed role supported early ponds and mills, but dense forests
limited expansion until clearance for mining and agriculture.
Late Middle Ages and Hussite Wars (15th Century)
Mining peaked then
declined in Jihlava by the late 14th century as rich veins exhausted,
shifting the economy toward trade and cloth-making. The Hussite Wars
(1419–1434) profoundly affected the region, which lay on the
Bohemia-Moravia fault line. Jihlava remained a Catholic stronghold,
resisting sieges; a key treaty acknowledging Sigismund as king was
signed there in 1436. Třebíč was conquered by Hussites and used as a
base before returning to monastic control. Telč’s town was taken, but
its castle held. Pelhřimov sided with the Hussites and hosted land diets
(parliaments) in 1446–1450, even attended by King George of Poděbrady.
Post-war recovery was slow, with noble families (e.g., Pernštejn in
Třebíč from 1490) stabilizing the area.
Early Modern Period:
Habsburg Rule, Wars, and Baroque Flourishing (16th–18th Centuries)
Under Habsburg rule from 1526, the region integrated into the Austrian
Empire. Jihlava suffered a devastating fire in 1523 (rebuilt
Renaissance-style) and depopulation during the Thirty Years’ War
(1618–1648), when Swedish troops captured it twice. Telč and Žďár were
briefly occupied by Swedes; Třebíč was less devastated but
re-Catholicized afterward. Counter-Reformation brought Jesuits to Telč
(church and school, 1667). Noble patronage drove Renaissance and Baroque
transformations:
Zachariáš of Hradec rebuilt Telč’s castle and
houses into a Renaissance masterpiece with arcades and ornate façades in
the mid-16th century.
In Třebíč, the Pernštejn and later Waldstein
families oversaw recovery; the St. Procopius Basilica (originally
12th-century Romanesque-Gothic) was repeatedly remodeled.
Žďár’s
Cistercian monastery (abolished 1606, restored, then finally in 1784
after fire and Swedish attacks) was rebuilt as a castle; the iconic
Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Zelená Hora (designed by Jan
Santini Aichel, 1719–1722) exemplifies Baroque-Gothic fusion.
Germanisation intensified in the late 18th century (e.g., Telč from
1785, Třebíč from 1786), while cloth production made Jihlava the
Austrian Empire’s second-largest producer by the late 1700s.
19th
Century: Industrialization, Railways, and Czech National Awakening
Railways (e.g., 1886 in Třebíč, 1898–1905 in Žďár) and factories boosted
light industry—cloth in Jihlava, tannery/shoemaking in Třebíč (later
Bata influence), and engineering precursors. The region remained rural
and sparsely populated overall, with hilly terrain limiting heavy
industry. The Czech National Revival gained traction amid German-Czech
tensions in language islands like Jihlava.
20th Century: World
Wars, Expulsions, and Communism
After World War I and the creation of
Czechoslovakia (1918), Jihlava’s roughly 50% German-speaking population
(forming a “language island”) demanded union with Austria, but it stayed
Czech. Nationalism rose in the 1930s with the Sudeten German Party.
World War II brought Nazi occupation; Jihlava’s Jewish community (over
1,000) was nearly annihilated in the Holocaust (synagogue burned 1939).
Post-1945, Beneš decrees led to the expulsion of most German-speakers;
Jihlava’s population dropped sharply.
Under communism (1948–1989),
the region saw forced collectivization, show trials (1950–1952 targeting
Catholics in rural areas), and selective industrialization (e.g., ŽĎAS
engineering in Žďár, vehicle/precision industries in Jihlava).
Population recovered somewhat but remained low. The 1969 self-immolation
of Evžen Plocek in Jihlava protested “normalization” after the Prague
Spring. The Velvet Revolution (1989) brought democracy; the first
post-communist supermarket opened in Jihlava in 1991.
Post-1989
and Contemporary Era: Regional Identity and Heritage
The 2000
administrative reform created the Vysočina Region from parts of former
Bohemian and Moravian districts, with Jihlava as capital. It remains one
of the least densely populated and most environmentally pristine
regions, with a focus on tourism, light industry, and agriculture.
Population stabilized around 500,000 (decline from interwar peaks due to
historical upheavals). UNESCO inscriptions highlight its heritage:
Telč historic centre (1992)
Pilgrimage Church of St. John of
Nepomuk, Žďár (1994)
Třebíč Jewish Quarter and St. Procopius’
Basilica (2003)
These reflect centuries of cultural interchange
between Czech, German, Jewish, and monastic influences.
The region covers 6,795.56 km² (roughly 6,796 km²), making it the
fifth-largest in the country. It borders the South Bohemian, Central
Bohemian, Pardubice, and South Moravian regions. Its administrative
districts are Havlíčkův Brod, Jihlava, Pelhřimov, Třebíč, and Žďár nad
Sázavou, with the capital at Jihlava. The landscape is overwhelmingly
rural, sparsely populated (density ~76 people/km², second-lowest
nationally), and renowned for its clean environment and unspoiled
nature.
Topography and Relief
The entire Vysočina Region lies
within the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, a 150+ km-long geomorphological
macroregion of rolling hills and low mountains running northeast from
Bohemia into Moravia. Elevations generally range from 500 to 800 m,
creating a gently undulating plateau landscape of rounded summits, broad
ridges, shallow valleys, and occasional deeply incised river gorges
toward the edges.
Key highest points include:
Javořice (837 m)
in the Jihlava Hills (Jihlavské vrchy / Javořická vrchovina), the
regional maximum, located in the southern Jihlava district.
Devět
skal (836 m) in the Žďár Highlands (Žďárské vrchy), nearly as high and
part of a cluster of peaks exceeding 800 m.
Other notable summits
are Křemešník (765 m), Čeřínek (761 m), Strážiště (744 m), and Melechov
(709 m). The lowest point is 239 m, where the Jihlava River exits the
region near Lhánice in the southeast.
The terrain is divided into
several geomorphological subunits of the broader Bohemian-Moravian
Highlands:
Křemešnická vrchovina (west)
Hornosázavská
pahorkatina
Železné hory (Iron Mountains, northwest)
Hornosvratecká vrchovina and Žďárské vrchy (north)
Křižanovská
vrchovina (central-east)
Javořická vrchovina and Jevišovická
pahorkatina (south)
The most dissected and rugged area is the
upper Svratka basin (Svratecká hornatina) with the greatest local relief
contrasts. Overall, flat plateaus and broad ridges dominate, giving
panoramic views and a sense of open, wave-like countryside dotted with
villages and small farms.
Geology
The highlands are part of
the ancient Bohemian Massif, shaped during the Variscan (Hercynian)
orogeny around 340 million years ago. What were once towering mountains
over 6 km high have been worn down by long-term erosion into today’s
modest highlands. The bedrock consists mainly of metamorphic rocks (high
in silica, acidic, nutrient-poor) interspersed with granites, syenites,
diorites, and granodiorites in central massifs (Jihlava, Třebíč, Železné
hory). Local variations include serpentines, amphibolites, and
crystalline limestones (marbles). Soils are predominantly acidic brown
forest soils with low fertility. A small northern outlier near Velké
Dářko belongs to the Cretaceous tableland, featuring sandstones, marls,
and notable peat bogs.
Hydrography and Water Resources
Vysočina is a major European watershed — the main divide between the
North Sea (Elbe basin) and Black Sea (Danube/Morava/Dyje basin) runs
through it, often subtly across the flat plateaus. It serves as the
source area for many important Czech and Moravian rivers.
North
Sea drainage (northwest): Sázava (with Želivka tributary), Doubrava, and
headwaters of the Nežárka (Kamenice, Žirovnice).
Black Sea drainage
(southeast): Svratka (with Bobrůvka), Oslava, Jihlava, Rokytná,
Želetavka, and Moravská Dyje.
Numerous reservoirs and fish ponds
(rybníky) characterize the region. Major dams include:
Dalešice
Reservoir on the Jihlava (100 m earth dam — the tallest of its kind in
Czechia)
Vír Reservoir on the Svratka (key drinking-water source for
Brno)
Švihov Reservoir on the Želivka (supplies much of Prague;
partly outside the region)
The largest fish pond is Velké Dářko
near Žďár nad Sázavou. These water bodies support recreation, fisheries,
and drinking-water reserves while creating scenic features amid the
hills.
Climate
Vysočina ranks among the cooler Czech regions
due to its elevation. Mean annual temperatures are typically 5–7 °C,
with colder conditions at higher altitudes. Precipitation averages
around 693–750 mm annually (near or slightly above long-term norms),
distributed fairly evenly but with orographic enhancement on ridges.
Snow cover lasts 40–100+ days depending on elevation and subregion. The
climate is temperate oceanic/continental with micro-variations: warmer
and drier in lower southern Moravian basins (Dyje-Oslava area), cooler
and wetter in the central and northern highlands. Five altitudinal
vegetation/climatic zones are recognized, ranging from oak-beech
lowlands to beech-fir uplands, influencing potential natural vegetation
and land use.
Biogeography, Protected Areas, and Land Use
The
landscape blends extensive forests (largely transformed from original
cover but relatively healthy) with agricultural plateaus and valleys.
Acidic soils favor coniferous and mixed forests. Roughly 9.8–10% of the
territory (~65,500 ha) is protected. Two large Landscape Protected Areas
(CHKO) dominate the north:
Žďárské vrchy (Žďár Highlands) — one
of the most pristine natural oases in central Czechia, with peaks, peat
bogs, and diverse habitats.
Železné hory (Iron Mountains).
Additional smaller nature parks, reserves, and the Vysočina Geopark
protect granite formations, wetlands, and biodiversity. The region’s
rural character supports forestry and agriculture (cereals, potatoes,
pastures), with tourism drawn to its tranquility, hiking, cycling, and
UNESCO sites in towns.
Jihlava: The Haunted Catacombs and Midnight Organ Music
Jihlava
(the regional capital) sits atop one of the most mysterious underground
networks in Central Europe. These catacombs — over 25 km of tunnels
carved 12+ metres deep into rock — began in the 13th century, possibly
as silver mines dug by German colonists or as emergency shelters during
wars and fires. The first three levels stored food and water; later
collapses forced reinforcements in the 20th century.
Locals and
visitors have reported paranormal activity for decades, especially
around midnight in the deepest passages. The most famous phenomenon is
the sound of an organ playing in a subterranean canal where no
instrument could possibly fit or be carried. Scientists and
psychologists who investigated ruled out mass hallucinations; multiple
credible witnesses described the music clearly. During a 1996
archaeological dig in an unexplored section, excavators found a
mysterious “glowing ladder” — a medieval stone stairway that emits an
orange-to-reddish light at night, even when all lanterns are switched
off. No phosphorus or chemical traces explain the luminescence; the
entire corridor sometimes glows with a greenish-red hue in total
darkness.
Ghost sightings and unexplained organ music have turned the
site into a magnet for paranormal enthusiasts. The catacombs are open to
the public today, but the mysteries remain unsolved.
Havlíčkův
Brod: The Skeleton of the Traitor Hnát
In the old town hall of
Havlíčkův Brod (formerly Německý Brod), a real human skeleton stands in
a niche under the clock — one hand holding a scythe inscribed “Qua hora
nescis” (“You know not the hour”), the other a bell that rings every
hour. It is the punishment of Hnát, the town crier and a notorious
traitor.
Centuries ago, bitter rivalry existed between Havlíčkův Brod
and neighbouring Jihlava. Unable to storm the heavily fortified town,
Jihlava bribed Hnát to leave the Lower Gate open at dawn and not sound
the alarm. As Jihlava soldiers crept out of the southern forests, Hnát
quietly opened the gate. Women heading to the Sázava River to wash
clothes spotted the danger, overpowered Hnát, slammed the gate shut, and
raised the alarm. The defenders repelled the attackers.
Hnát was
executed: thrown into the moat and stoned (or drowned immediately in
some versions). His body was left in an anthill until only bones
remained. These were displayed on the town hall façade as a permanent
warning against betrayal. The legend is still told to children, and the
skeleton remains one of the most macabre public monuments in the Czech
Republic.
Telč: The White Lady (Bílá paní) and the Sweet Porridge
Tradition
Telč’s Renaissance château and colourful UNESCO square are
haunted by the benevolent ghost of Berta (also identified with Perchta
of Rožmberk), the “White Lady” who appears in white robes. She is linked
to noble families bearing the five-petaled rose (Rožmberk and Hradec).
While the château in Jindřichův Hradec was being rebuilt, exhausted
serfs worked in corvée labour. Kind-hearted Berta promised them sweet
porridge (sladká kaše) every year once the work was finished. She kept
her word: every autumn (later Green Thursday) the poor of all estates
received the treat. In Telč the custom continued for centuries; when
food was scarce, money was given instead.
After Berta’s death, her
ghost continued to watch over the family. She appeared before important
events — holding keys for joyful occasions, wearing dark gloves for sad
ones. She especially favoured young Petr Vok, visiting him at night to
comfort the infant. One nanny snatched the child and screamed at the
spirit; offended, Berta vanished but left a message that later led to
the discovery of hidden treasure behind a wall.
In 1645, Swedish
troops occupied Telč and the commander mockingly stopped the porridge
distribution. The White Lady tormented him and his men for eight
sleepless nights until he restored the tradition.
The legend explains
both the ghostly appearances at Telč château and the enduring charitable
custom.
Telč: The Devil’s Footprint (Čertova stopa)
Near the
Old Town pond in Telč lies a rock bearing a clear imprint of a cloven
hoof — the Devil’s Footprint. The story concerns a wealthy but cruel
local man named Bárta. He mistreated his servants, wife, and children,
caring only for money. When he fell mortally ill, he repented and begged
the Virgin Mary for mercy. She took pity on him.
As Bárta reconciled
with everyone and died, the Devil waited to claim his soul. But the
Virgin Mary was faster: she snatched the soul and covered it with her
mantle. Furious at losing his prize, the Devil stamped his foot on the
rock in rage, leaving the permanent imprint still visible today.
Other notable motifs across Vysočina
Petrified robbers — Several rock
formations (including the dramatic Čtyři palice — “Four Clubs” — in the
Žďárské vrchy) are said to be bandits turned to stone as divine
punishment.
Silver bells and buried treasures — Legends around Medlov
pond and old mines speak of magical or cursed bells and hidden riches.
General Slavic spirits — Water sprites (vodníci) in the countless ponds,
midday ghosts (polednice), forest hejkals, and witches are common in the
highlands’ folklore, often warning against greed or disrespect for
nature.