Lázně Kynžvart (German Bad Königswart) is a town in the district of Cheb in the Karlovy Vary region. Since 1822, there is a climatic spa in the village. The dominant feature of the town is the spa district located on the western slope, which owes its origin to three gifts of nature: a beneficial climate, mineral springs and deposits of peat in the area. The village includes the local part of Lazy, about 5 km north of Kynžvart. Approximately 1,400 inhabitants live here.
1. State Chateau of Kynžvart (Zámek Kynžvart) – The Dominant Landmark
This neoclassical Empire-style chateau is the town’s undisputed
highlight and one of the Czech Republic’s most significant aristocratic
residences. It served as the summer residence of Austrian Chancellor
Klemens Wenzel von Metternich (1773–1859), a key figure in European
diplomacy after the Napoleonic Wars.
History: The site’s story begins
in the late 13th century when King Přemysl Otakar II built a borderland
fortress called Kunigeswart on a steep rock above the town; its ruins
still stand today. Over 340 years, the estate changed hands 29 times
among noble families. In the late 16th century, the lords of Cedvice
added a Renaissance keep lower down. After the Battle of White Mountain
(1620), the property passed to the Metternich family in 1623 (or 1630),
who held it until 1945. Count Philipp Emmerich von Metternich replaced
the dilapidated keep with a Baroque mansion between 1681 and 1691. The
defining transformation came between 1820–1839 (main works 1821–1836)
under Chancellor Metternich, who commissioned Italian architect Pietro
Nobile to rebuild it in elegant Viennese Classicism/Empire style. The
chateau opened to the public in 1828 and, after post-WWII confiscation
and major renovations, reopened fully in 2000. It holds European
Heritage Label status for its role in 19th-century diplomacy.
Architecture and Exterior: The pale yellow, U-shaped neoclassical
building features symmetrical wings, a central portico, green roofs, and
decorative elements like cast-iron railings and a courtyard fountain. It
blends seamlessly with the landscape.
Interiors and Collections:
Guided tours (only option) explore about 25 beautifully preserved rooms.
Highlights include:
One of the Czech Republic’s most valuable
aristocratic libraries, containing over 200 incunabula, medieval
manuscripts, rare prints, scientific books, and encyclopedias.
The
famous Cabinet of Curiosities (museum founded by Metternich in 1828),
with thousands of artifacts: natural specimens, coins,
historical/technical curiosities, manuscripts, Oriental art, marble
sculptures, ancient weapons, and Egyptian items. Standouts are the
mummified remains of two ancient Egyptians (Qenamūn, likely 18th
Dynasty; Pentahutres, 21st Dynasty), plus notable pieces like Marie
Antoinette’s personal prayer book (used before her execution), a child’s
suit belonging to Metternich, a locket with a lock of Beethoven’s hair,
a billiard table and cues gifted by Tsar Nicholas I, and a writing desk
once owned by Alexandre Dumas père.
The private Chapel of St.
Anthony of Padua (consecrated 1833) features a high altar made from
marble salvaged from Rome’s Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls
(after its 1823 fire), paintings by Anton Petter and Luca Giordano, and
relics.
The English Landscape Park: Spreading over 293 hectares, this
is one of the largest castle parks in the Czech Republic. Laid out
(1820–1833) by Viennese court gardener Riedl in French Imperial style
with later Romantic extensions under Prince Richard Metternich, it
features sweeping vistas, ponds (with perfect reflections of the
chateau), exotic conifers, romantic summerhouses, chapels (including the
Neo-Gothic Holy Cross chapel on May Hill, built 1835), an obelisk on St.
Anthony’s Hill honoring emperors Francis I and Ferdinand V, a tea-house,
cast-iron adornments from Metternich’s ironworks (fountain, Diana
statue, benches, railings), a Romantic hexagonal pavilion, greenhouse,
gardener’s villa, and historic farm/brewery buildings. Paths wind
through forests and meadows; an 18-hole golf course adjoins it. The park
suffered neglect in the 20th century but has undergone path restoration.
2. Ruins of the Medieval Kynžvart Castle
Perched on a rocky
outcrop directly above the modern town and chateau, these atmospheric
ruins are the original 13th–14th-century border fortress (completed
around 1287). It lost importance, was occupied by bandits, burned by
order of Charles IV in 1348, and later rebuilt before falling into
decay. The remnants offer a stark contrast to the elegant chateau below
and panoramic views—perfect for a short hike.
3. The Spa Complex
and Supporting Landmarks
Lázně Kynžvart is the only children’s spa in
the Czech Republic, specializing in respiratory disorders (established
for this purpose after a 1950s whooping-cough epidemic; adults welcomed
since 2013). Springs were documented as early as 1454, but the modern
spa was founded in 1822 by Count Richard Metternich (the chancellor’s
son), who developed six mineral springs. A railway arrival in 1872
boosted its popularity. The complex sits in a green park area adjacent
to the chateau grounds.
Key spa landmarks:
Spa House “New
York”: A late-Baroque gem originally a 17th-century two-story house,
extended and rebuilt in 1770. It stands as a historic architectural
monument but is currently unused.
Richard Spring Pavilion: A charming
covered wooden pavilion in the spa park houses the most famous spring.
It’s a peaceful spot for visitors to sample the mineral water amid
greenery.
Church of Saint Margaret: The town’s parish church, with
medieval Gothic roots, largely rebuilt in 1870 after a fire. Its tower
and square setting add to the town’s quaint historic character.
Other minor points of interest include fishponds, forest trails in the
protected landscape, and the nearby Kynžvart Stone (part of a
Czech-Bavarian geopark).
Visiting Tips: The chateau offers seasonal
guided tours (check zamek-kynzvart.cz for schedules); the park and spa
areas are free to wander. It’s easily reached by train or car from
Mariánské Lázně (direct connections). The site combines cultural depth,
natural beauty, and spa tranquility—ideal for history buffs, nature
lovers, and families seeking a low-key Czech gem. The combination of
Metternich-era elegance and ancient ruins makes Lázně Kynžvart far more
than a simple spa town; it’s a living chapter of European aristocratic
and diplomatic history.
10th century - 14th century
The first official
mention of Castel (Molobodný Castelum was a small fortification
built by a pagan Celtic tribe, approximately on the territory of
today's Lázně Kynžvart), dates back to 972, when Castelum was
donated by the German Emperor Ota I, together with the adjacent
territory, to Bishop Wolfgang of Regensburg. Another mention is from
August 4, 1287, when Kynžvart Castle (original name Kunigeswart) was
completed. The construction was started by Konrad of Hohenberg,
during the reign of the Czech King Wenceslas I, but it was not until
Konrád's son completed it. At that time, Přemysl Otakar II, called
the King of Iron and Gold, already ruled. For the small town, it was
a great advantage that caused a huge economic rise, due to the
settlement of various types of crafts, the castle had a larger
garrison and began to grow in population. The task of the castle was
to guard the trade route from Bečov, via Teplá, to Cheb. During this
period, castles were also built: Loket, Cheb, Bečov and Přimda. Over
time, the castle lost its significance and was abandoned. Around
1345, it was occupied by marauding knights who attacked caravans and
looted the surrounding area. That was the reason why Charles IV. in
1348, at the request of the councilors of Cheb, he had Kynžvart
Castle destroyed. Eight years later, in 1356, Charles IV. Kynžvart
is a city seal with a lion with a shield and three lilies. In 1398,
Heinrich Pflug received permission from Wenceslas IV to rebuild the
Kunigeswart fortified settlement, even against the objections of the
Chebans. The castle has since shone again in full splendor and
glory.
15th century - 16th century
In 1460, Hynek Krušin's
widow donated a picture of St. Margaret, who thus became the patron
saint of the local church. Four years later (1464), Jindřich of
Plavno grants the towns of Kynžvart and Žandov the right to mine ore
and the right to brew beer. In 1486, Ulrich von Zedwitz was
appointed governor of Kynžvart. The deed of appointment is still
preserved and stored in the municipal archives of the city of Cheb.
In 1500, the lords of Gutenštejn, together with their soldieress,
destroyed the church of St. Margarets and rob the city. Between 1500
and 1502, the church was repaired again. On March 31, 1534, the
territory was sold by Ferdinand I. The territory included the royal
property of Kynžvart together with two other villages. Johan z Pluhů
and his cousin Kašpar z Pluhů paid Ferdinand I. 18,460 gold coins.
At the same time, they were granted the right to use a pond with two
dams below Kynžvart. The 16th century was the peak of tin, silver
and gold mining for Kynžvart. The peasants left their fields and
tried to get rich by panning for gold in the surrounding streams.
Over time, it reached such a peak when it had to hit the lords and
ban this type of mining and panning. Unlike Jáchymov or Stříbro,
Kynžvart never became a mining town. In 1547, Kašpar of Pluhy, as
one of the main leaders of the estate uprising, was confiscated all
his property and was expelled from the Kingdom of Bohemia. The town
was occupied by fifty cuirassiers because the inhabitants of this
territory sided with their master. In October 1558, Ferdinand I
again sold the Kynžvart estate for 18,800 gold to Mr. Jindřich and
Zdeněk of Švanberk. Henry then pleaded for Emperor Maximilian II.
granted the town of Kynžvart the following rights: to hold a market
once a week on Thursdays and twice a year to hold a horse market.
The turn of the 16th century and the 17th century
The last
owners of the Kynžvart estate were the Zedwitz family. In the church
of St. Margaret's tombstone of Jan Šebestán Zedwitz is preserved, on
which the hour, day and year of the castle lord's death are carved
in Gothic script. In 1597, his son Kryštof Jindřich Zedwitz received
the manor for himself and his sons. At the turn of the 17th century,
Kynžvart Castle no longer met the new demands of life, and therefore
the Zedwitz family built a small Baroque chateau with farm buildings
under Kynžvart. The chateau included a smithy, a hunting lodge,
granaries, wheel mills, stables, a farm, a garden center and also a
brewery. After the Battle of White Mountain, specifically in 1622,
all property was confiscated and assigned to five brothers of the
Metternich Vinneburg family. A year later, the Metternich brothers
applied to buy Kynžvart with all the fields and forests. The request
was accepted in 1630. With the arrival of the Swedes at the end of
the Thirty Years' War, when Filip Emmerich Metternich Vinneburg was
already based in the chateau, the chateau was severely damaged and
many things were stolen. In the second half of the 17th century, all
the manor's property was gradually bought into the hands of F. E.
Metternich Vinneburg. The manor flourished and expanded. In 1664,
specifically on October 29, the wedding of a high-ranking and
respected burgher was to take place. During the preparations,
however, a fire broke out, which destroyed half of the square. In
the same year, as various armies passed, smallpox broke out, killing
70 people. In 1682, labor duties were eased. People still worked
hard, and when Metternich died of skeleton in 1698, no one regrets
it.
19th century
The year 1863 was a major milestone in the history of Kynžvart.
Richard Metternich had the first boarding house set up next to the
Viktorka spring. This also gives a basis and example for the
construction of a spa area. The town of Kynžvart, in honor of R.
Metternich, was renamed Richard in a well-known spring in the spa
area. Almost 200 years after the great fire of the city, two more
broke out in 1865 (one in August and the other in November of that
year). A total of 115 buildings burned down, including the town
hall, school, rectory and church. The total damage was then 311,553
gold. In 1870, on the feast of St. Margaret, a new church in
Kynžvart was consecrated by Father Josef Martin, the son of a miller
from the chateau. In the same year, it was founded by two local
students, a physical education association and a little later the
first fire brigade. In 1871, the railway between Cheb and Prague was
completed, called the "František Josef Railway". The local station
was called Sangaberg - Bad Königswart. With the establishment of
this railway, the timber trade flourished and an industrial
glassworks was established near the station, a little later a
sawmill and a bottling plant for mineral waters. In 1876, several
charities were founded and a male choir was founded, under the
direction of choirmaster Hans Frank, a composer and zither virtuoso.
He performed several times at the Imperial Court in Vienna. On July
1, 1877, the first hotels in the spa district were opened, opening
the gates of the Kynžvart Spa to the world. In the first season, the
Queen of Belgium, Prince Talleyrand de Sagan and Baron Nathaniel
Rotschild, stayed here. In 1878, a telegraph station was established
in Kynžvart. The reconstruction and rebuilding of the town of
Kynžvart to its current form begins. The work was carried out and
managed by the builder as well as the mayor Johan König. In 1891
there is a census of people and houses, and Kynžvart shows the
following numbers: 222 inhabited houses, 5 uninhabited houses, 16
houses after burnout. The city is inhabited by: 466 families and
2001 people live here. The castle has: 10 houses, 29 families with
127 people. At that time, the German language completely prevailed.
The year 1892 brings improvements for Kynžvart, in the form of the
completion of a new school on the square. In the same year, a gazebo
is built above the "Richard" spring and a new colonnade is opened.
After a long debate and planning, a new cemetery is consecrated.
20th century
In 1902, Kynžvart was annexed to the Mariánské
Lázně district, despite great protests from the population. From
1913 to 1918, the important German poet Adolf Karl Seidl lived in
Kynžvart. It fell at the end of the First World War. In the First
World War 1914-1918, men from Kynžvart fought on all fronts. 90 men
fell. Most at the beginning of the war on the Serbian front, as they
took part in maneuvers in Sarajevo, where the Austrian heir to the
throne, Ferdinand D'Este, and his wife Zofia were shot dead on June
26, 1914. On May 26, 1917, Prince Metternich established a
kindergarten for starving children in Kynžvart. Nuns from Notterdam
are invited to raise children. Despite the fact that the
Czechoslovak Republic was proclaimed on October 28, 1918, German
citizens do not agree with the annexation of the Sudetenland to the
Czechoslovak Republic and even declared the Republic of
Deutsch-Böhmen in protest. On September 13, 1935, after 100 years, a
harvest festival is held, but it was used for fascist propaganda.
Dean Mayerl serves a field mass in the square. The district
governor's office forbids all local schools from participating in
this celebration. On May 3, 1936, there is a congress of officials
and civil servants in Kynžvart, which is also attended by the leader
of the Sudeten German Party, Konrad Henlein.
Location and Coordinates
The town sits approximately 19 km
southeast of Cheb and 29 km southwest of Karlovy Vary. Its geographic
coordinates are 50°0′39″N 12°37′29″E (or 50.01083°N, 12.62472°E). The
municipal territory spans 32.60 km² (12.59 sq mi) and includes the main
settlement of Lázně Kynžvart plus the small village of Lazy (about 5 km
north).
Topography and Relief
Lázně Kynžvart occupies a
transitional zone in the Slavkov Forest (Slavkovský les, also known
historically as the Fichtelgebirge), a highland mesoregion of the
Bohemian Massif. The southwestern portion of the municipality lies in
the Upper Palatine Forest Foothills (Podčeskoleská pahorkatina), while
the northeastern part belongs to the Slavkov Forest proper, specifically
the Kynžvart Highlands microregion.
The terrain is hilly and
moderately dissected, consisting of flat-to-round plateaus (remnants of
an ancient Oligocene peneplain) interspersed with individual densely
wooded peaks and valleys shaped by tectonic and erosional forces. Town
elevation is officially 673 m (2,208 ft) above sea level (typically
measured at the municipal center or spa quarter on the
western/southwestern slope). The municipal territory rises
significantly; the highest point within it reaches 928 m (3,045 ft).
Nearby peaks in the broader Slavkov Forest include Lesný (983 m / 3,225
ft) and Lysina (982 m).
Hydrology
The area features several
minor watercourses (small streams) and numerous fishponds, the largest
being Pastevní rybník and Dvouhrázový rybník. Mineral springs (prameny)
emerge from the underlying geology and have been central to the town's
spa function since 1822. Nearby peat deposits (slatiny or raised bogs)
are another key hydrological feature. The broader Slavkov Forest serves
as a major regional water source, with many springs feeding spas; the
main regional river is the Teplá (with the Ohře briefly crossing the
north).
Geology
The underlying bedrock belongs to the ancient
Bohemian Massif. In parts of the Slavkov Forest, serpentinite dominates,
creating unique soil chemistry that supports specialized vegetation. The
landscape includes extensive raised bogs (especially in southwestern
sections) and evidence of long-term erosion forming the current
peneplain. Peat bogs and mineral-rich waters result from the region's
tectonic history and groundwater circulation.
Climate
Lázně
Kynžvart enjoys a cool highland climate (temperate continental with
mountain influences) at roughly 670–900 m elevation. The specific
microclimate — clean air, high forest cover, and position on the western
slope of the Slavkov Forest — is one of the three “gifts of nature”
(alongside mineral springs and peat) that enabled its development as a
climatic spa (klimatické lázně). The air is notably fresh and low in
allergens/pollen, making it ideal for treating nonspecific respiratory
disorders, especially in children.
Summers are comfortable (mild
days, cool nights), while winters are cold, snowy, and often windy, with
frequent cloud cover typical of Central European highlands. The
extensive spruce-dominated forests and bogs contribute to high humidity
and negative ions in the air.
Protected Areas and Natural
Environment
Almost the entire municipal territory is protected within
the Slavkov Forest Protected Landscape Area (CHKO Slavkovský les),
established in 1974 and covering 606 km². This PLA preserves diverse
habitats: over half is woodland (mainly spruce, with remnants of beech
and relict Scots pine on serpentinite), raised bogs with rare species
(e.g., round-leaved sundew, bilberry willow, carnivorous plants), glades
with orchids and mountain arnica (the PLA’s symbol), and rich fauna
(deer, wild boar, birds of prey, wood grouse, black storks).
Local
protected features include the natural monument Kynžvartský kámen and
the hill Lesný. The landscape mixes dense coniferous forests, open
meadows, streams, and peatlands — a classic West Bohemian highland
mosaic.