West Bohemia is a fascinating region in the western part of the
Czech Republic, bordering Germany (specifically the Franconian,
Saxon, and Bavarian areas). For centuries, it experienced strong
German cultural, linguistic, and economic influence, dating back
to the time of the Holy Roman Empire and continuing through the
era of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This borderland was home to
a significant ethnic German population (often called Sudeten
Germans) who shaped much of the local architecture, traditions,
and daily life.
The dramatic turning point came after World
War II. In the postwar years (primarily 1945–1946), most of the
ethnic German inhabitants were expelled from Czechoslovakia as
part of a broader policy of population transfers approved at the
Potsdam Conference. This forced migration, affecting millions
across Central Europe, aimed to create more ethnically
homogeneous states but involved significant hardship,
displacement, and loss of life for many. Following the
expulsions, the descent of the Iron Curtain during the Cold War
further severed cross-border ties. Even though Czechoslovakia
and East Germany (the GDR) were allied as "socialist brother
countries," travel and cultural exchanges remained heavily
restricted.
The region's fortunes improved markedly after the
fall of communism in 1989 and the Czech Republic's accession to
the European Union in 2004. Open borders and EU integration made
West Bohemia far more accessible to visitors from Germany and
beyond, sparking a tourism boom that continues today.
One of
the region's greatest attractions is the renowned West Bohemian
Spa Triangle — a cluster of three historic spa towns (Karlovy
Vary, Mariánské Lázně, and Františkovy Lázně) that, together
with others, form part of the UNESCO-listed Great Spa Towns of
Europe (inscribed in 2021). These elegant resorts, with their
grand colonnades, neoclassical and Art Nouveau architecture, and
abundant natural mineral springs, drew Europe's aristocracy,
intellectuals, royalty, and celebrities during the 19th century
and the glittering Belle Époque period. Guests "took the waters"
for health and leisure, enjoying baths, promenades, and social
events amid stunning forested landscapes.
The decline began
after World War I, when many aristocratic patrons lost wealth
and influence across Europe. The newly independent
Czechoslovakia struggled to maintain the spas' pre-war glamour
and international appeal. The situation worsened dramatically
during World War II: under the 1938 Munich Agreement, the area
(including the Sudetenland) was annexed by Nazi Germany, leading
to occupation and disruption. Later, Allied bombing —
particularly by American forces — damaged parts of the
infrastructure.
Aš — The westernmost town in the entire Czech Republic, right on the
German border, with a long history tied to textile production and
cross-border trade.
Cheb (Eger) — A historic
border city with a well-preserved medieval old town. It is infamous as
the site where the imperial general Albrecht von Wallenstein was
assassinated in 1634 during the Thirty Years' War.
Františkovy Lázně
(Franzensbad) — The smallest and greenest of the Spa Triangle towns,
known for its tranquil parks, peat-based treatments, and charming
Empire-style architecture. It was a favorite for quieter, more intimate
spa experiences.
Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) — The
largest and most famous spa resort in the triangle, with over a dozen
accessible thermal springs, iconic colonnades (like the Mill Colonnade),
and a legacy of attracting figures such as Beethoven, Goethe, and modern
film stars (it hosts an international film festival). Its dramatic
valley setting and luxurious hotels make it a highlight.
Lázně Kynžvart (Bad Königswart) — A smaller
historic spa town, once linked to aristocratic families and notable for
its connections to figures like Chancellor Metternich.
Loket — A picturesque town dominated by its
medieval castle perched on a dramatic bend of the Ohře River. The
historic center is a protected national cultural monument, often called
one of Bohemia's most beautiful small towns.
Mariánské Lázně
(Marienbad) — The second-largest in the Spa Triangle, famous for its
romantic parks, singing fountains, and over 40 springs. It gained fame
through visitors like Chopin, Wagner, and King Edward VII, offering a
more intimate and green spa atmosphere.
Plzeň
(Pilsen) — The region's industrial powerhouse and fourth-largest city in
the Czech Republic. It is globally renowned as the birthplace of Pilsner
beer (Pilsner Urquell), with a massive historic brewery and an
impressive Gothic cathedral.
Klatovy — Known for its Baroque
pharmacy, historic gates, and role as a gateway to the Bohemian Forest.
Planá — A smaller town with ties to local history and nearby natural
areas.
Domažlice — Famous for its long square lined with arcades,
folk traditions (including the Chodové people), and annual bagpipe
festivals.
Stříbro — Features a historic mining heritage and
well-preserved old town.
Horšovský Týn — A charming town with a
Renaissance castle and medieval center.
Černé Jezero (Black Lake)
The largest and deepest natural glacial
lake in the Czech Republic, nestled at an elevation of about 1,008
meters in the heart of Šumava National Park near Železná Ruda. Formed
during the Ice Age, this stunning triangular body of water covers around
18.9 hectares, reaches depths of over 40 meters, and is surrounded by
dense spruce forests (though some areas show signs of bark beetle
damage). It's a popular hiking destination with easy-to-moderate trails
from Špičák Pass, offering peaceful nature views, crystal-clear waters,
and a sense of untouched wilderness.
Rabí Castle
The largest
castle ruin in Bohemia (and by area, the biggest in the entire Czech
Republic), this impressive Gothic fortress sits dramatically on a hill
overlooking the Otava River in the picturesque foothills of Šumava.
Founded around 1300 and later expanded, it features massive
fortifications, towers, and walls that reflect its role in protecting
trade routes and gold-mining interests. Today, it's a fascinating
open-air ruin with guided tours highlighting its turbulent history,
including sieges and fires, set in a beautiful rural landscape ideal for
history enthusiasts and photographers.
Švihov Castle
A
remarkably well-preserved Late Gothic water castle (hrad Švihov) near
Klatovy, uniquely surrounded by a wide moat and defensive water systems
that could flood the surroundings for protection—earning it a reputation
as one of the most ingeniously fortified medieval strongholds in Central
Europe. Built in the late 15th century, it includes grand halls, towers,
and Renaissance elements added later. Often called a fairy-tale-like
fortress (it even served as a filming location for Cinderella
adaptations), it offers engaging tours and a magical atmosphere with its
reflective waters and peaceful setting.
Velhartice
Castle
A
romantic Gothic castle complex in Pošumaví (near Klatovy and Sušice),
perched on a rock above the Ostružná River. Founded at the end of the
13th century and expanded under noble families like the Lords of
Velhartice (who served at Charles IV's court), its standout feature is
the massive stone bridge with multiple arches connecting the two main
parts of the castle, along with unique twin-tower design and the
picturesque "Paradise Palace." It blends fortress architecture with
scenic beauty, offering guided tours that explore its medieval history,
architecture, and ties to Bohemian nobility.
Cathedral of St. Bartholomew (in Plzeň/Pilsen) — This impressive
Gothic masterpiece serves as the most striking landmark dominating the
city's skyline and central Republic Square. Construction began in the
13th century shortly after the city's founding, and its towering spire
reaches an impressive height of 102.26 meters, making it the tallest
church tower in the entire Czech Republic. Climbing the nearly 300 steps
to the top rewards visitors with panoramic views extending across the
city, the surrounding Bohemian and Upper Palatine Forests, and even
distant glimpses of the Alps on clear days. Admission to the tower is 50
Kč for adults.
The Singing Fountain (in Mariánské Lázně) — This
iconic musical fountain stands as one of the primary symbols and
dominant attractions of the elegant spa town Mariánské Lázně. Located
near the main colonnade and the statue of Abbot Reitenberger, it
performs a choreographed "song" of water jets synchronized to classical
music and other compositions. Shows take place daily every odd hour
starting from 7:00 a.m. until late evening (e.g., up to 10:00 p.m. or
similar), creating a magical, crowd-pleasing spectacle especially
enchanting in the evening.
Rolava Tin Mine Ruins (also known as
Sauersack) — These haunting remnants of a former tin mining and
processing complex lie hidden deep in the forests of the Ore Mountains
(Krušné hory) near the village of Přebuz. The site was actively
exploited during World War II as a forced labor camp, where primarily
political prisoners endured grueling conditions under Nazi control.
After the war, it saw brief further use (including by Soviet forces),
but was ultimately abandoned over 60 years ago. Today, the decaying
industrial buildings, structures, and remnants scattered through the
woods remain largely in their original state of abandonment. They are
generally accessible to explorers, but visiting is at your own risk due
to unstable structures, overgrowth, and remote location—proper caution,
sturdy footwear, and respect for the site's dark history are essential.
Reliquary of St. Maurus — Regarded as the second most valuable
historical artifact in the Czech Republic (after the Czech Crown
Jewels), this exquisite Romanesque golden reliquary features a wooden
core encased in gilded silver plates adorned with intricate filigree,
gemstones, statuettes, and reliefs depicting apostles and other figures.
Crafted in the early 13th century (around 1225–1230) in the Mosan style
at the Florennes Abbey in present-day Belgium, it originally housed
purported relics of St. Maurus (a martyr), St. John the Baptist, St.
Timothy, and possibly others. It later belonged to the Belgian noble
Beaufort-Spontin family, who acquired it in 1838, restored it, and
transported it to their estate at Bečov nad Teplou Castle in western
Bohemia in 1888. At the end of World War II, due to the family's
collaboration with the Nazis, they were expelled in 1945 and secretly
buried the reliquary beneath the chapel floor to hide it. It remained
concealed and forgotten for four decades until its dramatic rediscovery
in November 1985, prompted by a cryptic 1984 request from an American
businessman inquiring about purchasing "a thing that nobody would be
missing." After careful excavation and expert restoration, it has been
permanently exhibited at Bečov Castle since 2002, where it draws
visitors fascinated by its artistic beauty and turbulent history.
Český les (Upper Palatine Forest) — This scenic, forested mountain
range forms a natural border along the Czech-German frontier, continuing
the landscape of the Bohemian Forest (Šumava). Protected as a landscape
area since 2005, it offers peaceful hiking trails, dense pine woods,
fresh air, panoramic viewpoints, and excellent opportunities for
mushroom picking or cross-country skiing in winter.
Slavkovský les
(Slavkov Forest, formerly known as Emperor's Forest or Kaiserwald) — A
protected landscape area and highland region nestled in the Karlovy Vary
Region, it sits picturesquely between three renowned spa towns: Karlovy
Vary, Mariánské Lázně, and Františkovy Lázně. Covering elevations from
about 374 to 983 meters, the area features gentle rolling terrain ideal
for walking, nature observation, and outdoor activities year-round,
including summer hikes and winter cross-country skiing. Visitor centers
like the House of Nature in Kladská highlight its natural and cultural
heritage.
Prehistory and Early Settlement (Pre-9th Century)
The region’s
name “Bohemia” derives from the Celtic Boii tribe, who inhabited it from
the 4th–2nd centuries BC (Latin Boiohaemum = “home of the Boii”). After
Roman defeats of the Celts, Germanic tribes (Marcomanni under
Maroboduus, Quadi, etc.) dominated during the Roman era, using the
area’s natural mountain/forest defenses. The Migration Period (4th–6th
centuries) saw further Germanic shifts (Vandals, Langobards) before
Slavic tribes—the ancestors of the Czechs—arrived from the east in the
5th–6th centuries, repopulating the area and establishing Slavic
linguistic/cultural dominance by the 9th century. Christianity arrived
via Great Moravia in the 9th century.
Early Slavic polities emerged
under the Přemyslid dynasty, with the Duchy of Bohemia forming by the
late 9th–10th centuries. A castle at Plzeň (Starý Plzenec) is first
recorded in 976.
Medieval Kingdom of Bohemia and German
Colonization (10th–15th Centuries)
Bohemia joined Great Moravia
briefly before becoming an autonomous duchy within the Holy Roman Empire
(HRE). The Přemyslids consolidated power; Vratislav II and Vladislaus II
used the kingly title non-hereditarily, made permanent in 1198 under
Ottokar I. German settlers arrived en masse from the mid-13th century
(post-Mongol invasions of 1241), colonizing borderlands and towns for
mining, trade, and agriculture—creating a bilingual character that
defined West Bohemia.
Plzeň (Pilsen) was refounded as a royal city in
1295 by King Wenceslaus II on a grid plan at the confluence of four
rivers (Mže, Radbuza, Úhlava, Úslava), supplanting the older castle
site. It became a vital trade hub on Prague–Bavaria/Nuremberg routes and
grew to Bohemia’s third-largest city (after Prague and Kutná Hora) by
the 14th century, with ~3,000 inhabitants.
Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad)
traces to ~1349–1370, when Holy Roman Emperor and Bohemian King Charles
IV (Luxembourg dynasty, r. 1346–1378) founded a spa settlement after
legendarily discovering hot springs while hunting (healing his leg).
Granted town privileges in 1370, it was named after him (Karlsbad).
Earlier Slavic and German settlements existed nearby.
Cheb (Eger)
developed from a Slavic gord and 12th-century imperial fortress under
Frederick Barbarossa; it joined the Bohemian Crown permanently in 1322
and became a major Egerland center.
Jáchymov (Joachimsthal) was
founded in 1516 amid a 1512 silver discovery boom (though its medieval
roots tie to broader regional mining).
The Hussite Wars (1419–1434)
highlighted religious divides: Plzeň remained a staunch Catholic
stronghold, withstanding three unsuccessful sieges by Prokop the Great
(1433–1434) and allying against Hussite-leaning King George of
Poděbrady.
Habsburg Rule, Religious Wars, and Early Modern Period
(1526–18th Century)
Ferdinand I of Habsburg inherited the Bohemian
throne in 1526 after the Jagiellon line ended. West Bohemia’s mining and
border position gained prominence. In Jáchymov, silver mining exploded;
coins minted from 1520 (Joachimsthalers) inspired the “thaler” and
eventually “dollar.”
The Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648) devastated the
area. Plzeň was occupied by Mansfeld (1618 siege), served as
Wallenstein’s winter quarters (1633), and faced Swedish threats
(fortifications strengthened 1645–1649). In Cheb, Albrecht von
Wallenstein (imperial general) was assassinated in the Town House on 25
February 1634. The 1620 Battle of White Mountain ended Bohemian
Protestant autonomy; the 1627 Renewed Constitution elevated German as an
official language alongside Czech.
19th Century: Spas, Industry,
and National Awakening
The “West Bohemian Spa Triangle” (Karlovy
Vary, Mariánské Lázně—founded early 19th century—and Františkovy Lázně)
boomed after physicians like David Becher and Josef von Löschner
promoted mineral waters. Railways (Prague–Cheb line 1870) brought
aristocracy, artists (Beethoven, Chopin, Goethe, Peter the Great, later
Kafka, etc.), and royalty. Visitor numbers soared to tens of thousands
annually by the late 19th century. The 1819 Carlsbad Decrees
(Metternich’s anti-liberal measures) were issued here.
Plzeň
industrialized: The Bürger Brauerei produced the first golden lager
Pilsner in 1842 by Bavarian Josef Groll. Emil Škoda founded the Škoda
Works (~1869), growing into a major arms/engineering firm (30,000+
employees by WWI).
German-speakers dominated border towns (e.g., Cheb
~99.5% German in 1910; Karlovy Vary majority German). The Czech National
Revival stirred tensions.
20th Century: Wars, Expulsions,
Communism, and Revival
Post-WWI (1918), Bohemia joined
Czechoslovakia. Sudeten Germans (heavy in West Bohemia) protested; a
1919 Karlovy Vary demonstration killed six.
The 1938 Munich Agreement
annexed the Sudetenland—including most of West Bohemia’s border areas
(Cheb, Karlovy Vary, parts near Plzeň)—to Nazi Germany (Reichsgau
Sudetenland). Hitler visited Cheb. Plzeň became a frontier town; Škoda
produced Wehrmacht tanks/armaments; Jáchymov uranium went to Nazi
programs; Gestapo prisons operated.
In WWII, the rest fell under the
Protectorate of Bohemia-Moravia. RAF and USAAF bombed Plzeň (1942–1945).
Liberation came uniquely from the west: U.S. Third Army (Patton)
liberated Plzeň on 6 May 1945 and much of Western Bohemia (97th Infantry
Division took Cheb 25 April); Soviets liberated the east.
Postwar
Potsdam Agreement and Beneš decrees led to the expulsion of ~3 million
Sudeten Germans (1945–1947), drastically altering demographics (e.g.,
Cheb population halved; resettled by Czechs, later Vietnamese guest
workers).
Under Communism (1948 coup), Plzeň’s 1953 uprising (20,000+
protesters against currency reform) was suppressed. Jáchymov’s uranium
mines (1946–1964) used forced labor/political prisoners for Soviet
exports. The Iron Curtain isolated the border.
The 1989 Velvet
Revolution ended Communism. The 1993 Velvet Divorce created the
independent Czech Republic. EU accession (2004) reopened borders,
reviving tourism (spas UNESCO-listed 2021; Ore Mountains mining heritage
2019). Plzeň’s Pilsner Urquell and Škoda (now part of VW Group) remain
iconic.
West Bohemia (Czech: Západní Čechy), also known as Western Bohemia,
is the western historical and geographical portion of the Bohemian
region in the Czech Republic. It primarily encompasses the modern Plzeň
Region (southwest) and Karlovy Vary Region (northwest), together
covering roughly 10,875 km². This area forms the westernmost part of the
country and is part of the ancient, stable Bohemian Massif within
Europe's Central Uplands.
It borders Germany extensively: Bavaria to
the southwest and west, and Saxony to the northwest. Internally, it
adjoins the Central Bohemian Region (east), South Bohemian Region
(southeast), and Ústí nad Labem Region (north). The landscape is defined
by border mountain ranges that historically marked the edge of Bohemia,
creating a natural divide along the European watershed in places.
Topography and Major Landforms
West Bohemia features a varied
relief of low basins, rolling highlands, and forested mountain ranges,
with elevations generally rising toward the German border. The terrain
tilts as fault-block structures from ancient geological uplift, with
steeper scarps facing Bohemia.
Plzeň Region (southwestern West
Bohemia): Dominated by the low Plzeň Basin (around the city of Plzeň at
~310 m elevation), a fertile lowland surrounded by the Plzeň Highlands
and Brdy Highlands. To the southeast lie extensions of the Bohemian
Forest (Šumava) mountains; the southwest border features the Český les
(Czech part of the Upper Palatine Forest), a medium-high range
(Mittelgebirge) with steep valleys, rocky outcrops, and medieval castle
ruins. Forests here are dense, and the area includes glacial features
like Černé Lake.
Karlovy Vary Region (northwestern West Bohemia): The
Ore Mountains (Krušné hory / Erzgebirge) run along the northwest border
(southwest-northeast orientation, ~150 km long in total range),
presenting a steep scarp on the Czech side and gentler slopes northward
into Germany. They include plateaus dissected by deep V-shaped valleys.
The central-southern part features the Slavkov Forest (Slavkovský les),
an ancient peneplain highland with rounded plateaus (~800 m average),
prominent peaks, bogs, outcrops, and small lakes. Basins like the
Sokolov Basin and Eger Graben add lower-lying areas.
Key elevations
include the region's (and range's) highest point at Klínovec (1,244 m)
in the Ore Mountains, Lesný (983 m) and Lysina (982 m) in the Slavkov
Forest, Čerchov (1,042 m) in the Český les, and a reported 1,370 m high
point in the Plzeň Region's mountainous southeast (likely in the Šumava
extension). Lowest areas dip to ~140–374 m in river valleys and basins.
Geology
The entire area belongs to the Variscan (Hercynian)
Bohemian Massif, shaped by Paleozoic folding, metamorphism (gneiss,
schist, phyllite), and granite intrusions. Tertiary uplift created the
tilted fault-block mountains. Ore veins (tin, silver, uranium, etc.)
fueled historical mining, especially in the Ore Mountains (now a UNESCO
World Heritage cultural landscape). Localized Tertiary volcanic remnants
explain geothermal activity and mineral springs. Serpentinite outcrops
in the Slavkov Forest support rare ecosystems. Soils vary from
granite-derived grus in higher west/central areas to loamy in the east.
Hydrology
West Bohemia drains primarily into the Elbe River
system via two main arteries:
The Ohře River (Eger; 256 km in
Czechia) flows through the Karlovy Vary Region from Germany, receiving
key tributaries like the Teplá (at Karlovy Vary), Rolava, and Svatava.
It traverses the Sokolov Basin and forms scenic valleys.
In the
south, the Berounka River forms at Plzeň from the confluence of the Mže,
Radbuza, Úhlava, and Úslava rivers (all rising in border highlands) and
joins the Vltava system. The southern Plzeň area drains partly to the
Otava River.
Numerous mineral and thermal springs (famous in the
West Bohemian Spa Triangle: Karlovy Vary, Mariánské Lázně, Františkovy
Lázně) arise from geological faults. Mountainous areas host bogs, small
lakes (e.g., Černé Lake), and reservoirs. The range forms part of the
Main European Watershed.
Climate
The climate is temperate with
strong Atlantic influence from prevailing westerly/southwesterly winds,
producing even precipitation and oceanic traits (Köppen Cfb in lower
areas). Lowlands receive 400–600 mm annually with drier winters;
mountains see over 1,100 mm (much as snow), short cool summers, long
harsh winters, and only ~140 frost-free days at higher elevations.
Orographic lift, foehn winds, and inversion effects create
microclimates—cooler and wetter on ridges, milder in sheltered basins.
The Ore Mountains are among the snowiest Central European uplands.
Natural Environment and Protected Areas
Forests cover ~40% of the
area (higher in mountains), dominated by spruce monocultures with beech
remnants and unique serpentinite pine woods. Open meadows, bogs, and
glades host rare species: mountain arnica, sundews, butterworts,
orchids, and fauna including deer, wild boar, wood grouse, owls, and
black storks.
Major protections include:
Šumava National Park
and Landscape Protected Area (Plzeň portion of Bohemian Forest).
Slavkov Forest Protected Landscape Area (606 km², established 1974).
Ore Mountains nature reserves (e.g., bogs like Božídarské rašeliniště)
and UNESCO mining landscapes.
Smaller reserves and the broader
Bohemian Forest Protected Landscape Area.
The Founding Legend of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad)
The spa town of
Karlovy Vary—famous for its 13 mineral springs and elegant
colonnades—owes its origin story to one of Czech history’s most enduring
legends. In the mid-14th century, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Bohemia
Charles IV was staying at nearby Loket Castle. During a hunting
expedition into the dense forests surrounding the area (then called the
“Hot Baths at Loket”), his party accidentally discovered a steaming hot
spring. According to the classic version, Charles IV himself injured his
leg (or, in popular retellings, his hunting dog fell into the water),
and bathing in the spring miraculously healed the wound. Impressed by
the curative powers, the emperor ordered a spa settlement built on the
spot and granted the town formal privileges in 1370. The settlement was
named Karlsbad (“Charles’ Baths”) in his honor.
Variations include
the dog stumbling upon the spring first or the king pursuing a deer that
led the party to the water. The German name “in dem warmen Bade bey dem
Elbogen” (Hot Bath by the Elbow) references the river bend near Loket.
Locals and guides still recount this tale to visitors at the springs
(especially the Vřídlo geyser). Historians note that the thermal waters
were likely known and used by earlier settlers for centuries, and
Charles IV’s role was more about formal development and royal patronage
than pure discovery—yet the legend persists as the town’s foundational
myth, symbolizing divine or miraculous favor on the Bohemian ruler. It
ties Karlovy Vary’s identity to imperial benevolence and the healing
power of nature.
Legends of Loket Castle (the “Key to the Kingdom
of Bohemia”)
Just 10 km from Karlovy Vary stands the dramatic Gothic
Loket Castle (Hrad Loket), perched on a granite rock above the Ohře
River bend (“loket” means “elbow” in Czech). This 12th–13th-century
fortress—once a royal prison and frontier stronghold—hosts some of West
Bohemia’s most colorful protective-spirit legends.
The Dragon
Sarkan (or Šarkan)
A stone dragon figure (sometimes described as a
statue or carving) resides in the castle tower or along corridors
leading to the battlements. In one widespread telling, Sarkan was a
fearsome beast that terrorized the town and surrounding countryside
until clever locals (or knights) outwitted and captured it. The dragon
was then petrified into stone, but its fiery spirit remains alive within
the statue. Another folk version portrays Sarkan as a benevolent
guardian: housewives of Loket would visit the tower and ask the dragon
for fire to light their stoves, and he would oblige. A third tradition
simply states that the dragon “protected the place” and still watches
over the castle from the 26-meter Romanesque tower. Visitors can see the
figure today; it adds a fairy-tale layer to the otherwise stern medieval
fortress and is especially popular with children.
Gottstein the
Gnome (Ruler of the Cliffs and Underworld)
Near the dungeons or in
one of the exhibition halls stands a small statue of Gottstein—a
gnome-like creature with a long golden beard and a club held behind his
back. Local lore identifies him as the sovereign of Loket’s rocks,
cliffs, and underworld. The belief is practical and cautionary: if you
gently touch the top of his beard, leave a small coin or offering, and
make a pure-hearted wish, it will come true. However, if you touch his
club or harbor mean or selfish thoughts, Gottstein’s wrath will strike
within a year. This legend functions as both a good-luck charm and a
moral tale about intentions, typical of Czech castle folklore that
humanizes the stony landscape.
Some retellings mention a second
gnome-like figure called Strakakal (messy-haired with gleaming eyes),
guardian of a magical jewel, but details are scarcer and may overlap
with Gottstein traditions.
These stories turn Loket Castle into a
living fairy-tale site, connecting it directly to the Karlovy Vary
legend (Charles IV used the castle as his base) and emphasizing themes
of protection and supernatural guardianship over the border region.
Legends of Plzeň (Pilsen)
The industrial and brewing capital of
West Bohemia, Plzeň, has legends tied to its resilient medieval identity
and religious symbols.
The Camel in the City Coat of Arms
Plzeň’s coat of arms features a prominent camel (on a green shield)
alongside a silver greyhound, papal keys, an armored eagle-bearer, and a
castle. The camel legend dates to the Hussite Wars (early 15th century),
when radical Hussite forces besieged the staunchly Catholic city of
Plzeň five times without success. In 1433, the Hussites received a live
camel as a gift from Polish King Ladislaus II (in gratitude for earlier
military aid). During a raid or sortie, Plzeň’s defenders captured the
exotic animal, paraded it triumphantly through the streets, and refused
the enemy’s offer to ransom it back. After the sieges ended (with help
from Nuremberg allies), the grateful citizens gifted the camel to the
Nurembergers. In gratitude for the victory, the camel was incorporated
into the city’s heraldry as a symbol of defiance and exotic triumph. An
alternative version claims the camel was a gift from Emperor Sigismund
of Luxembourg. The story explains why this unusual desert animal appears
in a Central European coat of arms and underscores Plzeň’s historical
loyalty to the Catholic king and resistance to the Hussites.
The
Angel’s Head of Good Fortune at St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
On the
exterior lattice gate of Plzeň’s towering Gothic Cathedral of St.
Bartholomew (on Republic Square), a row of small angel heads decorates
the metalwork. One particular head—polished smooth and almost
featureless from centuries of touching—has become the “Angel of
Happiness” or “little angel to happiness.” The legend originates with a
Rakovník executioner who wished to marry in the cathedral but was barred
from entering due to his profession (executioners were considered
unclean). A friend stood proxy at the altar inside while the executioner
prayed fervently at the outer back altar, grasping one of the angel
heads on the gate. His marriage proved happy and successful, and word
spread that touching that specific angel brought luck and small
miracles. Today, locals and tourists of all ages queue to touch the
polished spot, believing it grants good fortune. The story reflects
medieval social hierarchies, religious taboos, and the enduring folk
practice of seeking blessings from everyday architectural details.
Other Notes on West Bohemian Folklore
The Plzeň Region also
maintains a broader atmosphere of mystery: sites like the Church of St.
George in Luková (now famous for modern ghost sculptures installed in
the pews) and ruined castles such as Nový Herštejn (with tales of
“immured daughters”) carry tragic or haunted reputations, though
detailed ancient narratives are less documented than the above. The
Pilsen Museum of Ghosts and Fairy Tales collects and displays local
monsters and creatures from the surrounding countryside, keeping these
traditions alive for younger generations. In the forested hills and Ore
Mountains (Krušné hory) that define much of West Bohemia, general Czech
forest spirits or will-o’-the-wisps (bludičky) appear in older tales,
but they lack the specific place-based anchoring of the Karlovy Vary,
Loket, and Plzeň stories.