Nestled in the vibrant heart of Pula, Croatia—the ancient Roman city of Pola on the Istrian Peninsula—the Church and Monastery of Saint Anthony of Padua stands as a beacon of 20th-century Franciscan revival amid millennia-old ruins. Dedicated to the beloved 13th-century Portuguese preacher and miracle-worker St. Anthony, known for his eloquence, humility, and devotion to the poor, this Roman Catholic complex is a poignant symbol of community faith and resilience. Completed in the early 1930s after a grassroots building effort, it serves as the seat of Pula's Franciscan community, blending modern construction with echoes of the city's layered history. Rising prominently with its 45-meter bell tower—the tallest structure in Pula at over 148 feet—it dominates the skyline, offering panoramic views and a striking counterpoint to nearby Roman antiquities like the iconic Arena amphitheater, just a stone's throw away. For locals and pilgrims alike, it's a place of solace, prayer, and cultural heritage, embodying the Franciscan ideals of simplicity and service in a city that has weathered empires from Roman to Venetian, Habsburg, and beyond.
The story of the Church and Monastery of Saint Anthony traces back to
Pula's turbulent religious past, particularly the Franciscan order's
deep roots in Istria. Franciscans first arrived in the region during the
13th century, establishing monasteries in Pula and on the nearby island
of Veruda as early as 1230, drawn by St. Anthony's own legendary travels
through Istria in 1229 while en route to preach in northern Italy. These
early foundations flourished under Venetian rule but were abruptly
dissolved in 1806 by Napoleonic decree, scattering the friars and
leaving a spiritual void in the growing port city.
The modern revival
began in the interwar period, amid Italy's administration of Istria
(1918–1947) following World War I. In 1920, Fr. Tito Brandolini (also
known as Tito Castagna), a Franciscan from the Venetian Province of St.
Francis, became the first friar to resettle in Pula, responding to the
city's burgeoning population of 60,000, which had only one Catholic
parish at the time. Initially, the friars repurposed a former city
hospital into a children's orphanage in 1925 and improvised a modest
chapel dedicated to St. Anthony on the site. By 1929, with the support
of the Poreč-Pula diocese, they secured land near the ancient Arena for
a permanent structure. The foundation stone was laid and blessed on
October 4, 1929—the feast day of St. Francis of Assisi—marking the 700th
anniversary of his death and coinciding with a wave of religious fervor
across Europe.
Construction unfolded as a true labor of love: all
materials, labor, and even architectural plans were donated by
parishioners, reflecting the era's economic hardships and communal
spirit. The church was solemnly inaugurated on November 1, 1931 (All
Saints' Day), with Fr. Tito presiding, as celebrated in the local
Italian-language newspaper Corriere Istriano, which hailed it as a
"monument to the faith" of Pula's citizens. Tragically, a worker named
Justo Zidarić lost his life during building, commemorated by an
inscription on the southern facade. Expansions continued into the 1930s
and 1940s: marble paving in 1936, an apse in 1939, and a Marian altar in
1941, amid the shadows of World War II. The adjacent monastery was added
in 1961 to house the growing Franciscan community, and comprehensive
renovations in 2000 modernized the interiors while preserving historical
integrity. Through Yugoslavia's socialist era and Croatia's independence
wars (1991–1995), the complex endured as a steadfast Catholic outpost in
a diverse, multi-ethnic region, hosting refugees and fostering
interfaith dialogue.
Legends enrich its lore: some traditions claim
St. Anthony himself blessed the site during his Istrian journey, tying
it mystically to the saint's miracles of lost objects and the poor.
Today, it remains under the care of the Order of Friars Minor (OFM),
continuing St. Anthony's legacy through charitable works like the
orphanage, now evolved into youth programs.
The Church of St. Anthony exemplifies early 20th-century Romanesque
revival architecture, a deliberate stylistic nod to Pula's ancient
Romanesque heritage while embracing modernist simplicity and
functionality. Designed by the esteemed local architect Engineer Guido
Brass—who donated his expertise gratis—the structure harmonizes with the
surrounding classical ruins, avoiding ornate excess in favor of clean
lines and communal scale. Spanning a basilica-like plan with a single
nave flanked by side aisles, the church measures approximately 50 meters
in length and 20 meters in width, accommodating up to 800 worshippers.
Its facade, facing west toward the Arena, features a robust portico with
three rounded arches echoing Roman aqueducts, supported by sturdy
pilasters of local Istrian stone—a creamy limestone that glows golden in
sunlight.
Dominating the silhouette is the freestanding 45-meter bell
tower (campanile), added later as a "beacon of faith" and visible for
miles across the Adriatic coastline. Clad in the same stone, it tapers
upward with rhythmic blind arcades and culminates in a crenellated
parapet and cross-topped spire, housing five bronze bells that chime
hourly, blending medieval resonance with modern precision. Inside, the
nave soars under a wooden truss roof, illuminated by tall lancet windows
filled with vibrant stained-glass depictions of St. Anthony's
life—miracles like the fish sermon and the Christ Child vision—crafted
by local artisans in the 1950s. The sanctuary's apse, frescoed in 1939,
portrays the saint in glory amid angels, with gold-leaf accents that
catch the light during services.
Notable interiors include a
mesmerizing mosaic floor (laid in 1936) of geometric patterns inspired
by Roman mosaics from nearby villas, and a classical pipe organ
installed post-war, its 2,000 pipes enabling Gregorian chants and
contemporary masses. Side chapels honor the Virgin Mary and St. Francis,
featuring 15th-century liturgical relics salvaged from dissolved
monasteries, such as a gilded wooden crucifix and silver monstrance. The
adjacent monastery, a two-story cloister built in 1961, wraps around a
serene courtyard garden with citrus trees and a statue of St. Anthony
holding the infant Jesus—a subtle evocation of his mystical encounters.
Subtle modern touches, like underfloor heating from the 2000 renovation,
ensure year-round usability without compromising the ascetic Franciscan
ethos. Compared to Pula's Baroque Cathedral of the Assumption, St.
Anthony's is more austere, prioritizing spiritual introspection over
grandeur, yet its bell tower rivals the city's ancient obelisks in
visual impact.
Beyond its role as Pula's primary Franciscan hub—hosting daily masses, novenas to St. Anthony (especially on June 13), and youth retreats—the church embodies the city's Catholic-Italian heritage in a now-predominantly Croatian context. It served as a spiritual anchor during the 20th century's upheavals: Italian exodus after 1947, Yugoslav secularization, and the Croatian War of Independence, when it sheltered displaced families. Culturally, it fosters Istrian identity through events like the annual St. Anthony Festival, blending processions with folk music and trdelník-like sweets in his honor. Architecturally, it bridges Pula's Roman past (the Arena's arches mirror its own) with interwar modernism, symbolizing renewal. For scholars, it offers insights into diaspora faith-building; for believers, it's a locus of miracles, with ex-votos (gratitude plaques) lining the walls for answered prayers on lost causes. In a UNESCO-recognized city of monuments, St. Anthony's underscores how faith adapts, turning stone into sanctuary.
As of September 2025, the Church and Monastery remain active and impeccably maintained, with no major disruptions reported post-2000 renovations. Free admission draws over 50,000 visitors annually, open weekdays 9 AM–6 PM and weekends 10 AM–4 PM (verify for holidays via +385 52 211 206). Entry via the main portal leads to the nave; modest dress is required, and donations support upkeep. A 10-minute walk from the central Forum or bus station, it's ideally paired with Arena visits—park at nearby Verudela lots (visitpula.hr for maps). Guided tours (Croatian/English, €5, 45 minutes) delve into frescoes and relics; climb the bell tower for Adriatic vistas (extra fee, weather permitting). Spring or autumn avoids summer throngs, when concerts echo under the arches. Photographers capture golden-hour facades, while families light candles for St. Anthony's intercession. In Pula's mosaic of eras, stepping into this haven isn't mere sightseeing—it's an invitation to pause, pray, and ponder the saint who preached to fish, reminding us that even in antiquity's shadow, new stories of grace unfold.