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Divnogorye or Divnogorie is located in the
Voronezh region, 130 km from the regional center and 12 km from
Liski. Divnogorye - Cretaceous plateau, towering tens of meters
above the surrounding forest-steppe. The name of the area received
from the "divs" - chalk
pillars and remnants of geologic formations that formed on the
bottom of ancient seas that once covered this area. In 1991, the territory of the plateau received the
status of a museum-reserve.
Unusual chalk formation,
magnificent views of the Don and Silent Pine that flow down below,
rare for Russia monasteries and churches make Divnogorye one of the
most interesting sights of the region. The best time to visit is
from May to September, in dry weather.
1 Reserve
administration, Divnogorye farm. ☎ +7 (47391) 2-12-17, 5-91-11.
Opening hours: 10: 00—18: 00 from April 25 to November 10,
excursions every two hours from 10:00 to 16:00. Mondays and Tuesdays
are weekends; the cave church and the entire infrastructure are
closed.
The "Divnogorye" Natural and Archaeological Museum-Reserve covers an
area of 11 km² (approximately 1,100 hectares, with a buffer zone of up
to 1,400 hectares). The reserve is located in the Liski District of the
Voronezh Region, on the right bank of the Don River—approximately 10 km
west of the town of Liski and 80 km south of Voronezh—near the
confluence of the Don and Tikhaya Sosna rivers.
Geologically, it
represents a classic surface exposure of Upper Cretaceous rock
formations in the southern part of the Central Russian Upland. The
plateau is composed primarily of Turonian writing chalk and Santonian
marl; the thickness of the chalk layer reaches tens of meters in places.
The plateau's maximum absolute elevation is 181 meters above sea level,
with a relative elevation of about 103 meters. The mouth of the Tikhaya
Sosna, where it joins the Don, lies at an elevation of approximately 78
meters; consequently, the drop between the dry plateau summit and the
floodplain is very steep.
Due to this elevation difference, the
plateau's microclimate is noticeably drier and hotter than that of the
floodplain lowlands. The elevated surface warms up quickly, and rising
warm air currents push thunderstorm clouds toward the site's lower-lying
valleys. While the average annual precipitation in the region is about
480 mm, the amount falling on the plateau itself is 1.5 to 2 times
lower. Summers are particularly arid. Minimal water erosion slows the
wearing away of slopes and limits the impact of large karst sinkholes,
even though voids exist within the chalk strata. These voids are easily
detected: footsteps on the surface produce a hollow, booming sound.
The upper 15–20% of the deposit consists of chalky soil. Below a depth
of approximately 80 cm lies nearly pure chalk. The top layer is subject
to active wind erosion. Despite the steep slopes (ranging from 25° to
60° in places), the terrain has been significantly altered by human
activity. In 1860, part of the plateau was blasted with dynamite during
the construction of the railway (the Liski–Ostrogozhsk–Valuyki line,
which still runs along the base of the plateau today). Sheep farming and
vandalism caused further damage; while there were once more than twenty
of these chalk pillars—known locally as *divy*—only a few remain today
(specifically, the Bolshiye and Malye Divy).
The plateau continues to
rise at a rate of approximately 2 mm per year. Its slopes are deeply
incised by ravines and canyon-like gullies (including the Golaya Ravine
and Stenkin Yar), while Cenomanian-Albian sands are exposed at the base
in some areas. The striking contrast between the white chalk, the steppe
vegetation atop the plateau, and the green floodplain makes this
landscape one of the most recognizable in the Voronezh region.
The territory of the Divnogorye Museum-Reserve is situated in the
southern part of the Central Russian Upland, at the confluence of the
Don and Tikhaya Sosna rivers, on the northern edge of the steppe zone.
Its vegetation differs markedly from the typical forest-steppe found in
the vicinity of Voronezh. The plateau rises approximately 100 meters
above the mouth of the Tikhaya Sosna (with a maximum elevation of about
181 meters above sea level). Its surface is composed of massive layers
of Upper Cretaceous chalk, reaching thicknesses of 80–100 meters in
places. The soil is thin and calcareous, drying out rapidly;
consequently, the area is dominated by drought-resistant and
calciphilous (chalk-loving) plant communities.
For a long time, the
plateau and its slopes were used as sheep pastures. Grazing severely
depleted the turf, destroyed the steppe cover, and accelerated erosion
on the chalk slopes. Once grazing ceased and a restricted-access regime
was introduced, the steppe began to recover. By 2013, relatively stable
plant communities—characterized by feather grass, fescue, various forbs,
and petrophytic (rock-dwelling) species—had formed across most of the
plateau, closely resembling the original vegetation.
More than 250
species of xerophytic and petrophytic plants have been recorded on the
plateau itself. These include feather grass (*Stipa pennata*) and
hair-like feather grass (*Stipa capillata*), drooping sage (*Salvia
nutans*), chalk thyme (*Thymus cretaceus*), crown vetch (*Securigera
varia*), eastern cornflower (*Centaurea orientalis*), joint-pine
(*Ephedra distachya*), Podolian *Schivereckia* (*Schivereckia
podolica*), whole-leaf clematis (*Clematis integrifolia*), meadow
pasqueflower (*Pulsatilla pratensis*), simple *Onosma* (*Onosma
simplicissima*), dwarf iris (*Iris pumila*) and leafless iris (*Iris
aphylla*), wood anemone (*Anemone sylvestris*), and spring Adonis
(*Adonis vernalis*). Botanists classify nearly 40 percent of the
Divnogorye flora as calciphytes—plants adapted to alkaline chalk soils.
The chalk outcrops of the southern Russian Plain are characterized by
endemic species—most notably *Androsace kozo-poljanskii*—as well as
*Scrophularia cretacea* (chalk figwort), *Linum ucrainicum* (Ukrainian
flax), *Alyssum gmelinii* (Gmelin’s alyssum), and a number of other
highly localized species. A gelatinous lichen of the genus *Collema*
grows on the chalk surface; in dry weather, it shrivels into dark
crusts, while in wet weather, it swells and softens.
The reserve’s
overall flora is far richer, comprising—by various estimates—between 650
and over 800 species of vascular plants. Dozens of species are protected
at both regional and federal levels, including *Stipa pulcherrima*
(beautiful feather grass), *Pulsatilla pratensis* (meadow pasqueflower),
*Iris aphylla* (leafless iris), and *Adonis vernalis* (spring
pheasant's-eye). In spring, the lower slopes are dotted with the yellow
blooms of *Adonis*; in summer, the plateau is fragrant with thyme; and
in autumn, the silvery panicles of feather grass sway in the breeze.
The fauna is typical of the northern steppe, interspersed with
forest-steppe and Mediterranean elements. The great bustard and the
golden eagle—both listed in the Red Book—appear here occasionally.
European bee-eaters and Eurasian eagle-owls are more common. Among
mammals, the European hare and the red fox are frequently encountered,
while bats inhabit the crevices of the chalk cliffs. The insect life is
highly diverse, featuring bumblebees, dragonflies, wasps, the predatory
*Saga pedo* (steppe sagas), stag beetles, *Lethrus* beetles,
swallowtails, and other diurnal butterflies. Many of these insects are
also protected species.
In 1956, a shelterbelt of maple and ash trees
was planted in the central part of the plateau. This planting was part
of the post-war field-protection afforestation scheme (known as the
"Stalin Plan for the Transformation of Nature" of 1948); work on this
specific site was completed after Stalin's death. Due to the chalky
soil, high alkalinity, and constant moisture deficit, the trees grow
extremely slowly. Even after nearly seventy years, many trunks appear
young and the canopies remain sparse; some of the plantings never closed
to form a full-fledged forest. The belt has become a conspicuous yet
alien element of the steppe landscape—and, at the same time, a living
testament to the attempt to clothe arid lands in forest.
Chalk pillars divas. Cretaceous remains, which gave the name of the
area, are located in different parts of the reserve:
1 Big divas.
located in the administration area and about. settlement Divnogorskaya,
hanging over the valley of Quiet Pine;
2 Small divas. are located on
the territory of the Divnogorsky monastery in the northern part of the
reserve. The chalk plateau rises above the monastery: a steep path leads
to the top, and from above there is a magnificent view of the mouth of
the Silent Pine. More relics have been preserved here than in Bolshiye
Divy, including the ring rock, and the chalk mountain as a whole looks
more preserved.
3 Lonely diva. in the dry ravine, in the eastern
part of the reserve. There is no road to it, not even a path, you have
to go straight across the steppe. If you go strictly to the south from
the archaeological park, you can pass by the diva and go to the dirt
road to the village of Divnogorie.
It is forbidden to climb the
Big Divas; A steep path leads to the Small Divas.
4 Church of the
Sicilian Icon of the Mother of God (XVII century). adults - 250 rubles,
schoolchildren and students - 125 rubles. (July 2017). A steep staircase
leads up to the plateau from the train platform, ending at the entrance
to the cave church - the main attraction of the reserve. Entrance to the
church is allowed only as part of excursion groups departing from the
foot of the stairs every two hours. The church belongs to the reserve,
and divine services are held only twice a year. The two-story church and
utility rooms were hollowed out in the chalk according to the traditions
of Athos monks in the middle of the 17th century, approximately at the
same time as the Divnogorsky monastery was founded. The temple was
consecrated in honor of the Sicilian icon of the Mother of God,
according to legend, belonged to Sophia Paleolog. In the temple there is
a list made about 100 years ago from the original icon (it was restored
in 2010), the location of the original is unknown. A feature of the cave
temple is a narrow corridor of almost a hundred meters in length around
the main hall, which was previously used for religious procession, and
now is a habitat for butterflies. There is no artificial lighting in the
temple, but you will be given a church candle. In front of the entrance
there is an observation deck with an excellent view of Quiet Pine.
5 Mayatskoe settlement. From the church to the north stretches a small
area of the recreated steppe, along which footpaths are laid. They lead
to the remains of a settlement (VIII-X centuries), an outpost of the
Khazar Khaganate in the north. The rectangular settlement was a chalk
fortress surrounded by 6-meter ramparts. The fortress has not yet been
excavated, but the ramparts are clearly visible around the perimeter.
The archaeological culture of the settlement is called Mayatskaya, as it
is believed that the white-stone fortress on the highest point of the
plateau was an excellent landmark (beacon) for the entire region. If you
carefully look under your feet, it is easy to find fragments of ceramics
on the territory of the ancient settlement. Near the settlement there is
one of the best viewing platforms overlooking the Pine, Don and Zadonye.
6 Chalk Canyon. From the Mayatsky settlement, past the forest
plantation, the path leads to a deep chalk ravine of a bizarre shape.
The picturesque canyon is a popular spot for photography, especially at
sunset when the setting sun gives the chalk a pinkish tint. There are
many nests of burrowing birds on the walls of the ravine.
7 Archaeological park "From camps to cities". Tourist groups do not
lead to the central part of the protected area, and paved paths are
replaced by unpaved ones. Behind the chalk canyon is a recreated
settlement of the Mayak culture: dugouts and adobe huts resembling
yurts.
8 Geological exposition. In a forest plantation next to the
archaeological park, there are stone slabs illustrating different
geological periods. There are no signs and pointers here, and in
general, the exposition looks neglected.
9th Divnogorsky Holy
Dormition Monastery (next to the Divnogorskaya platform). In the
northern part of the reserve there is a monastery with another cave
temple and a second group of remains - small Divas. The territory of the
monastery is no less picturesque than Big Divas, and is included in the
“obligatory program” of visiting the reserve.
From the administration
of the reserve, you can walk to the monastery along the railway (about 3
km) - the shortest, but the most uninteresting path, or along the top,
past the archaeological park (a dirt road starts from the park,
connecting the Divnogorie farm and the monastery directly). The
monastery can also be reached by car on an asphalt road around the chalk
plateau.
It is believed that the monastery was founded in 1640 by
the monks Xenophon and Joasaph from the Kiev-Pechersk Lavra, who carved
cells and a temple in chalk. The monastery has been closed several times
and its artificial structures are of no interest, although it is
possible that it was this lack of development that allowed the
preservation of the chalk mountains surrounding the monastery.
10
Cave Church of John the Baptist (XVII-XIX centuries). In the chalk
column at a height of about 80 meters is the entrance to the cave
church. It is very similar to the Church of the Sicilian Icon, but is
not a museum object, but part of a monastery, and therefore looks a bit
run down. From the lowland, where the monastery buildings are located, a
staircase leads to the entrance to the temple. Entrance is allowed only
as part of organized groups: excursions can be arranged in the
monastery, but there are no regular excursions with a fixed start time.
Divine services in the church are also conducted irregularly.
11
Casemate and Ear Caves. In the extreme north-eastern corner of the
protected area, between the monastery and the village of Selyavnoye, two
narrow caves were carved in the chalk plateau: they gave an excellent
overview of the Don valley and the opportunity to monitor the enemy. A
hermit monk once lived here, carving niches for icons and lamps in the
chalk walls.
12 Reconstruction of the Ukrainian courtyard. A
stylized Ukrainian estate (many Ukrainians have always lived in the
Voronezh region), which houses the ethnographic collection of the
museum-reserve. The exposition is extremely meager - spinning wheels,
towels, rural utensils - and only children may like it.
13 C the
holy spring. The spring from which the ministers of the Church of the
Sicilian Icon took water. The water is very hard, and its compliance
with sanitary standards is unknown.
In fiction
In Vladimir Sorokin's story "The Day of the Oprichnik", the estate of Prince Urusov is located in Divnogorie.
How to get there
Most ways to get to Divnogorye involve transit
through the city of Liski, a major railway junction in the immediate
vicinity of the M4 highway. Ostrogozhsk is also relatively close, the
city is somewhat more interesting than Liski, but much less accessible
by transport.
By train
Divnogorie is served by two train
stations on the Liski-Ostrogozhsk-Valuiki line.
1 o. settlement
Divnogorskaya. near the monastery.
2 o. n. 143 km. near the
administration of the reserve.
From Liski, three electric trains
a day (direction to Ostrogozhsk or Alekseevka) allow you to leave in the
morning and return not late in the evening. The same electric trains run
from Ostrogozhsk, but their schedule is not very convenient. Travel time
from both Liski and Ostrogozhsk is about half an hour. On some summer
weekends, direct express trains from Voronezh are scheduled in
Divnogorye, the journey takes a little more than two hours.
Both
stations are half-stations with no infrastructure other than a shelter
the size of a bus stop. Tickets must be taken from the traveling cashier
on the train (but in Liski or Ostrogozhsk, in turn, at the box office at
the station).
The railway itself goes right at the foot of the
chalk hills and is very picturesque, although the floodplain of the
rivers is often blocked by trees.
By bus
There is a bus from
Liski twice a day (in the middle of the day). It is not very convenient,
as it takes 1 hour 15 minutes (in the opposite direction a little
faster), and its stop is located about 2 km from the reserve. However,
if the seven-hour interval between trains is inconvenient for you, you
can come to Divnogorie by train and leave by bus, or vice versa.
By car
A dead-end local road leads to Divnogorye (however, of good
quality): the distance from Liski is about 40 km, from Ostrogozhsk -
about 50 km. From Liski, in the village of Pukhovo, without crossing the
railway crossing, turn towards Kovalev; however, it is difficult to get
lost, as there are signs to Divnogorye at all the forks. A little
further from the administration of the reserve is free parking.
A
separate road leads to the monastery (and the northern part of the
reserve) through the village of Selyavnoe. The car will have to be left
on the paved parking lot at the top of the hill, from which the
monastery is still about 800 meters away.
From the direction of
Voronezh and Ostrogozhsk, navigators often show a shorter route to
Divnogorye, but roads of unclear quality, among which there are unpaved
ones. It is better to choose the path described above, and if you are
still attracted to others, you should find out in advance about their
condition.