Kholmogory (Russian : Холмогоры ) is a historical
village and the administrative center of the Kholmogory raion of the
Archangel Oblast, in Russia. It is located on the left bank of the
Northern Dvina, on the M8 motorway, 75 km southeast of Arcángel and
90 km north of the Monastery of San Troitski Antonievo-Siski. The
name is derived from the Finnish Kalmomäki, which means "hill of
corpses" (cemetery ). According to the census Russian of 2002, its
population was 4,592 inhabitants.
Kholmogory area was first
inhabited by the Finn - Ugrians Savolotshij Thsuuds (savolokis ),
also called Yems or Karelians in the ancient chronicles of Novgorod.
The first Slavic population in the region were the pomors of Vologda
after 1220. Already in the fourteenth century, the village (whose
name happened to be pronounced Kholmogory) was an important center
of trade for the Republic of Novgorod in northern Russia. Its
commercial importance even grew in 1554 when the Muscovy Company
converted Kholmogory into its center for fur operations. The Swedes
besieged the wooden fort during the Tumultuous Period (1613), but
they had to withdraw (although later the Russians announced this,
there is no record in the Swedish military sources). During the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries it was a place of exile,
including ex-agent Ana Leopóldovna and her children.
In 1682
the cathedral of Kholmogory was consecrated, with six pillars, the
largest in the region. It was destroyed by the Soviets in the 1930s.
Despite this, many old sawmills and mills in the area are still
preserved. Lomonosov, one of the surrounding villages is the
birthplace of the great Russian geographer and writer Mikhail
Lomonosov and the sculptor Fedot Shubin. As a local artistic
tradition we should highlight the engraving of mammoth tusks and
walruses. The bone engraving factory Lomonosov preserves the
medieval tradition of this folk art.
The Kholmogorsk
cathedral ensemble is located in the village of the same name and in
the region of the Arkhangelsk region. It consists of the
Transfiguration Cathedral, the bell tower and the Bishops' chambers.
The Orthodox Transfiguration Cathedral was built in 1685-1691 by
Archbishop Athanasius. The foundation was laid in May 1685. Fyodor
and Ivan Stafurov supervised the construction work of the "stone and
bell works of the apprentice". The cathedral was built like other
northern churches of the late 17th century; it received a severe
medieval image. The building was crowned with 5 powerful heads. Its
height was 42 meters. The architects of those years no longer used
pet coat; Kholmogory Cathedral had a developed cornice with a
4-pitched roof. The decorative design of the facades is
distinguished by simplicity and modesty: promising portals, stripes
of curb and croutons, a peculiar pattern of the platband. Be that as
it may, structurally the building of the cathedral has retained many
archaic elements that go back to the Assumption Cathedral of
Fioravanti: the cross vaults are on the same level, the inter-altar
double arches and compartments are practically equal to each other.
The temple was painted by local archpriest Fyodor and deacon
Fyodor. After Tsar Peter Alekseevich visited the cathedral in 1693,
the iconostasis was replaced with a five-tiered one. The cornice
with the temple-created chronicle was located between the second and
third tiers of the iconostasis. Through the efforts of His Grace
Athanasius, a diocesan archive was formed at the church, and a
telescope was installed on the bell tower. The cathedral was the
first observatory in the Russian North.
Later, the cathedral
served as the burial vault of bishops, and directly opposite the
Braunschweig family was imprisoned. After 1920, the monument was
destroyed and practically destroyed. Of the five drums, only three
managed to survive, and then they were beheaded. The entire height
of the temple was overtaken by a crack, clearly visible in the
photographs, which threatened its complete destruction.
In
the second half of the 20th century, instead of restoration, the
Transfiguration Cathedral was mothballed for an indefinite period,
the walls were fastened with metal ties, although the bell tower was
restored. Today the cathedral is open as a parish church, but the
local population does not have enough funds for restoration work.
Services are held in two smaller churches of a later construction
located near the cathedral: the Twelve Apostles and the Descent of
the Holy Spirit.
To the west of the Spaso-Preobrazhensky
Cathedral there is a low tent-roofed bell tower-clock-bell, built in
1683-1685 (in other sources - in 1681-1683). It was with her that
the construction of the entire Bishops' court began, and she
appeared before the cathedral, which violated all church canons.
The structure of the bell tower is traditional: an octagon on a
quadrangle, a tent completes the structure. Thanks to its rich
decor, it seems to withstand the austere appearance of the
cathedral. The bell facades, like the cathedral ones, were painted
with "patterned pink colors." There was a clock on the bell tower,
which had 2 wooden circles with arrows “on the osmerik from north to
south”: on the south - there were Latin numbers, on the north -
Russian.
The bell tower has 14 bells. A large one (weighing
178 pounds) was poured during the reign of Catherine II, the other
(110 pounds) was originally from Amsterdam. In the Soviet years,
these bells were melted down, but part of the found bell was used to
cast new ones.
The bishops' chambers were built in 1688-1691.
In the line of the Holy Gates, from the eastern direction of the
chambers, there was the archbishop's house church (1692-1695). A
dining room and a cross chambers with "grass" vaults and tiled
stoves were attached to it at the level of the second floor.
Once, the Bishops' Chambers looked very elegant: a high roof with
chimneys, luxurious window frames, each of which is decorated with
kokoshniks with 3 “peaks”. The front porch led to the second floor.
In these chambers in 1693, Peter the Great was received by
Archbishop Athanasius.
Ancient and Viking Period (Pre-13th Century)
The
history of Kholmogory, a rural locality in Arkhangelsk Oblast, Russia,
situated on the left bank of the Northern Dvina River about 75
kilometers southeast of Arkhangelsk, traces back to ancient times. The
area was initially inhabited by Finno-Ugric tribes, including the
"Zavolochskaya Chud" (referred to as Yems in Novgorod chronicles) and
Karelians, who lived in the region before Slavic settlement. The name
"Kholmogory" likely derives from the Finnish word Kalmomäki, meaning
"corpse hill" or "cemetery," reflecting early linguistic influences.
Linguistically and historically, Kholmogory is linked to Old Norse
"Holmgård," suggesting Scandinavian roots.
Evidence points to
connections with the Viking era and the legendary Bjarmaland, a region
described in Norse sagas as a wealthy land of trade and plunder
encompassing the Northern Dvina basin, southern White Sea shores, and
surrounding forests from around 890 to 1250. Vikings (Varangians) from
Norway and Sweden undertook expeditions along the Northern Dvina River
(known as Vina in sagas) to reach settlements like Kholmogory, trading
in furs, walrus tusks, amber, gyrfalcons, and other natural resources
while also engaging in raids. Key accounts include the Voyage of Ohthere
(c. 890), where Norwegian chieftain Ohthere described reaching Bjarmia
and its riches, and sagas like Heimskringla by Snorri Sturluson (1230),
detailing voyages by figures such as Eric Bloodaxe (c. 920), Harold
Greycloak (c. 965), and Thorir Hund (1026). Archaeological support
includes over 700 Viking burial mounds from the 9th-11th centuries along
the Vaga River tributary, silver hoards with Western European coins near
Arkhangelsk and Krasnoborsk, and Scandinavian artifacts like fibulae and
swords found as far as Siberia. Place names in the region, such as
Vygozero (Vigsø in Old Norse) and Olavgora (Olavs bjerg), further
indicate Viking influence, with trade routes extending to Novgorod (also
called Holmgard) and beyond. The Bjarmians, likely a Finnish ethnic
group worshiping a god akin to the Finnish Jumala, interacted with
Vikings through markets and exchanges, though the region was perilous
due to harsh climates and natural hazards like whirlpools.
The first
documented mention of the settlement appears in 1138 as Ivani-Pogost,
with a later reference in 1335 as Kolmogory in a document from Moscow's
Grand Prince Ivan Kalita. Slavic Pomors from the Vologda area began
settling after 1220, marking the transition to Russian dominance.
Medieval Period and Rise as a Trading Post (13th-16th Centuries)
By the 14th century, Kholmogory had emerged as a vital trading outpost
for the Novgorod Republic in Russia's Far North. A wooden fort was
constructed in the early 15th century, solidifying its defensive role.
Following Ivan III's subjugation of Novgorod in the late 15th century,
the area fell under Moscow's control.
Kholmogory's commercial
prominence surged in the 16th century, becoming Russia's "first window
to the West" via White Sea trade routes. In 1553, English explorer
Richard Chancellor, aboard the Edward Bonaventure, landed near the St.
Nicholas-Korelsky Monastery and was directed to Kholmogory, where local
authorities hosted him before his journey to Moscow. This encounter
secured trading privileges for the English Muscovy Company until 1698,
focusing on fur trade and placing Muscovy on European maps through
Chancellor's detailed accounts. By 1554, Kholmogory served as the
company's operational center. Trade flourished with Western Europe,
prompting Ivan IV (the Terrible) to establish Arkhangelsk (initially
called Novo-Kholmogory or New Kholmogory) in 1584 near the Dvina's mouth
to handle growing maritime commerce.
Nearby, the Trinity-St. Antony
Siysky Monastery was founded in 1520 by monk Antony on an island in
Mikhailovskoe Lake, becoming a major spiritual and cultural center with
structures like the Trinity Cathedral (1589-1606), one of the earliest
large masonry buildings in the north.
During the Time of Troubles, in
1613, Polish-Lithuanian forces (Lisowczycy) besieged Kholmogory's wooden
fort but withdrew without capturing it.
17th-18th Centuries:
Exile, Crafts, and Architectural Development
In the 17th century,
Kholmogory became a notorious exile site. Notable exiles included
ex-regent Anna Leopoldovna and her children, including Emperor Ivan VI,
with the practice continuing into the 18th century amid Romanov court
intrigues. A unique craft of bone carving emerged around this time,
using mammoth and walrus tusks, reaching its zenith under Peter the
Great; master artisans were summoned to the Kremlin Armoury. Local
sculptor Fedot Shubin gained fame for his work.
Architecturally, the
six-pillared Kholmogory Cathedral was consecrated in 1682, becoming the
region's largest. The Spaso-Preobrazhensky (Transfiguration) Cathedral,
built from 1685-1691, formed the core of a grand ensemble including a
1681-1683 bell tower and archbishop's chambers; Peter the Great visited
in 1693 during his Arkhangelsk trip and commissioned an icon screen.
Later additions included the Church of the Twelve Apostles (c. 1760) and
Church of the Pentecost (1865). The nearby Dormition Convent operated
until 1920.
Kholmogory also pioneered Russian shipbuilding with the
first merchant shipyard established by the Bazheniny family. A 1675
census noted 645 draft homesteads. By the late 18th century, it was a
district center, with Russia's oldest nautical school opening in 1781.
It became renowned for dairy cattle breeding, developing the high-yield
"Kholmogorka" breed.
Kholmogory is the birthplace of polymath Mikhail
Lomonosov (born November 19, 1711, in nearby Lomonosovo), whose
contributions to science, literature, and education are celebrated
annually since 1969 through "Lomonosov Readings" conferences.
19th-20th Centuries: Imperial Visits, Revolution, and Soviet Era
Emperor Alexander I visited in 1819. By the 1917 October Revolution,
Kholmogory featured a district hospital, schools, cathedrals, churches,
a convent, and saloons.
In the early Soviet period, the Kholmogory
prison camp was revived by Cheka plenipotentiary Mikhail Kedrov,
functioning as a death camp with mass executions of White Army officers
and political opponents; Kedrov's excesses led to his removal and
psychiatric institutionalization. In 1929, it became a regional center
with rapid social development, including a cattle breeding farm
exporting livestock nationwide. The 1930s saw Communist disfigurement of
the cathedral. In 1937, the Otto Schmidt North Pole expedition stopped
there. The Siysky Monastery was closed in 1920, repurposed as a resort,
and returned to the church in 1992 for restoration.
Modern Period
(Post-Soviet to Present)
Today, Kholmogory preserves its cultural
heritage, including wooden architecture, folk art, handicrafts,
folklore, songs, and legends. The Lomonosov Bone Carving Factory
continues the 17th-century tradition. A local museum highlights the
area's history, residents, notable figures, and crafts. Restoration
efforts, such as those at the Transfiguration Cathedral and Dormition
Convent since 2010 (accelerated for Lomonosov's 2011 tercentenary),
underscore its enduring significance.
Kholmogory is a historic rural locality (selo) in Arkhangelsk Oblast, northwestern Russia. It serves as the administrative center of Kholmogorsky District. Geographically, it is positioned at approximately 64.23°N latitude and 41.65°E longitude. The settlement lies on the left (western) bank of the Northern Dvina River, a major waterway in the region. It is situated along the M8 Kholmogory Highway, which connects it to larger urban centers. Specifically, Kholmogory is about 75 kilometers (47 miles) southeast of the oblast capital, Arkhangelsk, and roughly 90 kilometers (56 miles) north of the Antonievo-Siysky Monastery. The district as a whole is centrally located within Arkhangelsk Oblast and is elongated in a north-south direction, spanning an area of 16,827 square kilometers (about 6,500 square miles). It borders several other districts and territories: Pinezhsky District to the east, Vinogradovsky District to the southeast, the town of Mirny to the south, Plesetsky District to the southwest, and Primorsky District to the northwest. This positioning places Kholmogory in a transitional zone between the taiga forests of the Russian North and the coastal influences of the White Sea, which lies further north.
The topography of Kholmogory and its surrounding district is predominantly flat to gently undulating, characteristic of the northern Russian Plain. The landscape is shaped by glacial activity from the last Ice Age, resulting in low-lying river valleys, moraines, and scattered depressions. Elevations are generally low, rarely exceeding 100-150 meters (330-490 feet) above sea level, with the Northern Dvina River valley forming a central lowland corridor that bisects the district into eastern and western halves. The terrain on the right (eastern) bank of the Northern Dvina tends to be slightly more varied, featuring subtle hills and ridges, while the left bank, where Kholmogory is located, is flatter and more prone to flooding during spring thaws. Much of the area is covered in boreal forests (taiga), interspersed with wetlands, meadows, and agricultural lands historically used for dairy farming, particularly the famous Kholmogory cattle breed. The overall flatness facilitates transportation along the river and highway but also contributes to seasonal waterlogging in low-lying areas.
Hydrography plays a central role in Kholmogory's geography, with the Northern Dvina River dominating the landscape. This wide, navigable river flows northward through the district, serving as a vital artery for transportation, fishing, and historical trade routes to the White Sea. The river's width near Kholmogory can reach several hundred meters, and it is prone to seasonal flooding, especially in spring due to snowmelt from upstream tributaries. Key tributaries within the district include the Yemtsa River (left bank), the Pukshenga River (right bank), and the Pinega River (right bank), all of which drain into the Northern Dvina. A smaller portion of the district's northern area falls into the basin of the Kyolda River, which flows into the Kuloy River and ultimately the White Sea. Numerous glacial lakes dot the landscape, particularly on the right bank of the Northern Dvina, contributing to a network of wetlands and bogs. These water bodies support diverse aquatic ecosystems but also pose challenges like mosquito infestations in summer and ice jams in winter. The Northern Dvina and Pinega are navigable for cargo, though passenger services are limited.
The vegetation in Kholmogory is typical of the taiga biome, with vast coniferous forests covering a major portion of the district. Dominant tree species include spruce, pine, and fir, mixed with deciduous trees like birch and aspen in disturbed or transitional areas. Understory vegetation features mosses, lichens, ferns, and berry-producing shrubs such as bilberries and lingonberries, which are important for local foraging. Wetlands support sedges, reeds, and sphagnum moss, forming peat bogs that store significant carbon. Soils are primarily podzolic, derived from glacial till and moraine deposits, with low fertility due to acidity and poor drainage. In river valleys, alluvial soils are more fertile, supporting limited agriculture, including hayfields and pastures. Permafrost is absent in this region, unlike farther north, but the ground can freeze deeply in winter, affecting construction and farming.
Kholmogory experiences a subarctic climate (Köppen Dfc), characterized by long, harsh winters and short, mild summers. Given its proximity to Arkhangelsk, temperatures and precipitation patterns are similar. Annual average temperatures hover around 2.3°C (36.2°F), with extremes ranging from -23°C (-9°F) or lower in winter to above 20°C (68°F) in summer. January is the coldest month, with averages around -10°C to -15°C (14°F to 5°F), and occasional drops to -30°C (-22°F) during polar outbreaks. July is the warmest, with highs up to 22°C (72°F). Precipitation is moderate, totaling about 672 mm (26.5 inches) annually, distributed fairly evenly but with a slight peak in summer. Snow cover lasts from October to May, accumulating up to 1-2 meters (3-6 feet) in depth. The region sees polar nights in winter (short daylight) and midnight sun in summer, influencing local ecology and human activities. Winds are generally light but can bring cold air from the Arctic or moist air from the Atlantic, leading to frequent overcast skies and fog along the river.
The surrounding areas of Kholmogory blend rural, forested expanses with sparse settlements, emphasizing its role as a gateway between Arkhangelsk's urban port and the interior taiga. To the north, the landscape transitions toward the White Sea coast, with increasing maritime influences. Southward, it connects to more densely forested districts like Plesetsky, known for cosmodromes and military sites. Ecologically, the area is part of the East European Plain's northern extension, supporting biodiversity including moose, foxes, and migratory birds along river corridors. Historically, the geography facilitated trade in furs, timber, and fish, and today it supports tourism focused on wooden architecture and natural scenery. Challenges include river erosion, seasonal isolation due to ice, and vulnerability to climate change, such as altered flood patterns.