Starodub, Russia

Starodub (in the old days - Starodub Seversky) is an ancient city in the southwestern part of the Bryansk region, 30 kilometers from the border with Ukraine. Founded under Vladimir Monomakh, it was one of the historical centers of the Seversk land, survived the Tatar-Mongol invasion and many other significant events and therefore today could become a generally recognized tourist center, but is now known mainly as the place where “Starodubsky” cheese is produced and there is a correctional labor colony.

 

Sights

Nativity (Cossack) Cathedral, Pervomaiskaya street, 11. Located in the city center, on the former market square. Built in 1677. It is considered one of the earliest examples of a Ukrainian three-chamber domed pillarless temple. In Soviet times, it was used as a warehouse, now it has been restored with somewhat excessive zeal (the traditional white iron covering was replaced with gold, new crosses are also painted “gold”), but overall it has retained its ancient and impressive appearance.
Epiphany Church, st. Frunze, 63 (on the shore of Lake Babinets). The temple was built in the 1780s in the Ukrainian Baroque style. Repaired, maintained in order, operational.
Church of St. Nicholas (Staronikolsky) (1803), Evseevskaya st., 23. A small church on a hill in the city center, built at the beginning of the 19th century in classicist style, with four-column porticoes. During Soviet times it was also used as a warehouse, now it has been restored and is operational.
Former synagogue building (now post office building)
A memorial sign in honor of the visit of the city by Empress Catherine II in 1787
Prison castle (architect Andrian Zakharov, early 19th century)
The building of the former religious school (Correctional Colony No. 5) (2nd half of the 19th century)
The building of the former men's gymnasium (facade of the Relay factory) (2nd half of the 19th century)
Lenin School building (1887)
The building of the former women's gymnasium (Kalinin school) (1902)
Building of the children's creativity center (1905)
House of Y. V. Zavadovsky, the last colonel of the Starodub regiment (XVIII century)
Miklashevsky House (early 19th century)
Yakubenko House (1st third of the 19th century)
Cherkunov House (1853)
House of merchant Dyatlov (XIX century)
House of merchant Sapozhkov (XIX century)
House of the merchant Reikhinshtein (2nd half of the 19th century)
Former Akundova hotel (2nd half of the 19th century)
House of the merchant Konovalov (1872)
Former district court building (2nd half of the 19th century)
Former building of the Theological School (1898)
Monument to Ivan Grigorievich Shcheglovitov, Minister of Justice of the Russian Empire, the last Chairman of the State Council of the Empire.

Prison castle (Ekaterininsky prison), st. Malecha, 5. Located at the confluence of the Shmergovka stream into the Babinets River, on the cape where the historical core of the city was located. There was a former fort here, and in the 1980s, the remains of the defensive ramparts of a pre-Mongol fortress from the late 10th century were found nearby. The current prison castle was built in the first half of the 19th century - according to legend, according to the design of the outstanding St. Petersburg architect Andreyan Zakharov. Whether this is true or not, the building is in any case impressive and, despite its current abandonment, has retained its noble outlines. It is called Catherine’s, apparently, not in honor of Catherine II (who, although she visited Starodub, did so long before the construction of the fort), but after the unpreserved Catherine’s Church, located nearby.
City park, between Kalinin, Lunacharsky and Uritsky streets. Next to the park (Lunacharsky St., 19) there is a house where the Ukrainian folklorist and musicologist Alexander Ivanovich Rubets lived, and therefore the park bears his name (previously it was a park named after Shchors). There is no museum in the house, but in the park there is a monument to Rubts, as well as a fountain and two sculptures of lions (more precisely, a lion and a lioness) at the entrance from Kalinin Street.

 

What to do

Starodubsky Museum of Local Lore, Krasnooktyabrskaya st., 36. ☎ +7 (48348) 2-29-59. 09:00–17:00 (Tue-Fri), 10:00–14:00 (Sat-Sun). 30–50 ₽.

 

How to get there

By plane
There is no airport in Starodub.

By train
Dead-end branch from Unecha.

Railway station, st. Sverdlova, 62.

By bus
Bus service with Bryansk, Klimovo, Klintsy, Novozybkov, as well as with Moscow and Gomel.

Bus station, st. Semashko, 9.

 

Eat

Cheap
1 “Gulliver”, Krasnoarmeyskaya sq., 97D (near the hospital). ☎ +7 (930) 726-21-52. 08:00–21:00, on Sun – 09:00–20:00. from 150 ₽. Cafe near the bus station (landmark - water tower). Simple, but according to reviews, delicious food. The menu is small. There is a "coffee to go" option.

Average cost
2  “Old Town”, Krasnoarmeyskaya st., 1. ☎ +7 (909) 241-52-78. 10:00–00:00 (Mon-Thu), 10:00–02:00 (Fri-Sun). Mostly good reviews.
3 “Caspian”, st. Lunacharsky, 15 (near the park). 11:00–02:00 except Mon. Conflicting reviews.

 

Hotels

Average cost
1 “Quarter”, Krasnooktyabrskaya st., 47B. ✉ ☎ +7 (905) 104-25-89, +7 (961) 101-07-08. 2000-2500 ₽. Mini-hotel in the city center. There is parking, free Wi-Fi, and a restaurant. Good feedback.

 

Geography

Located on the Babinets River, 145 km southwest of Bryansk, 130 km from Belarusian Gomel, 180 km from Ukrainian Chernigov.

 

Climate

The prevailing climate is moderate continental. Winters are cool, with thaws. Summer is warm and long. The average annual precipitation is 530 mm.

 

History

The exact age of Starodub is unknown. The first mention of him was in the “Teaching” of Vladimir Monomakh in 1080. There, in the Laurentian Chronicle, it is reported that the siege of the Starodub fortress (during the campaign of Vladimir Monomakh in 1096 to Starodub against Oleg of Chernigov, who took refuge there after being expelled from Chernigov) lasted 33 days. Only a powerful, well-developed fortress, capable of providing food supplies for the townspeople, the garrison and the princely squad, could withstand such a long siege.

In 1152, Yuri Dolgoruky and settlers from Starodub founded another city - Starodub-on-Klyazma, which later became the center of the Starodub principality, located on the territory of the modern Vladimir region.

In the 13th century, during Batu's invasion, the city was destroyed by the Mongol-Tatars. From the middle of the 14th century it was the center of the principality in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and Russia. It suffered greatly in 1379 from the troops of Grand Duke Dmitry Ivanovich (“Donskoy”).

In 1503, after the victory of Ivan III over the Lithuanians in the Battle of Vedrosh, it became part of the united Russian state. Being a border fortress on the southwestern outskirts of the Russian state, Starodub was repeatedly attacked by Polish-Lithuanian forces, for example in 1515, 1534 and 1535. In the summer of 1535, during the Starodub War, the Polish-Lithuanian army under the command of hetmans Radziwill and Tarnowski captured and ravaged the city and burned the fortress walls, killing 13 thousand inhabitants. But in the same year the city with all the fortifications was rebuilt. The fortifications consisted of ramparts, ditches and wooden chopped walls with travel towers. In 1563, the existence of two fortresses in Starodub was first mentioned, the larger of which was located on the left bank of the Babinets River, and the other, smaller (“part of the suburb”) in Zarechye. According to the surviving plans of that time, it is clear that the space-planning structure of the city was almost the same as it is now, and resembled a radial ring.

In 1562, during the Livonian War, Starodub was attacked by a Lithuanian army led by Philon Kmita, but managed to survive.

In 1616, the Poles again captured the city, and according to the Deulin Truce, they retained it. In 1620, King Sigismund III granted the inhabitants liberties under the Magdeburg Law, and the city a coat of arms depicting an old oak tree with an eagle's nest. The royal charter spoke of Starodub as a border city, “formed by ramparts and... capable of defense.” Poland used its fortifications to protect its lands from the Russian state. In 1648, during the uprising (revolt) of B. Khmelnitsky against the government of the Polish-Lithuanian Republic, Jews were beaten here by the Dnieper Cossacks, who occupied this city.

In 1649, under the terms of the Treaty of Zborov, the entire region was assigned to the Hetmanate. And in 1654, the Hetmanate united with Russia, and Starodub became a regimental city - the administrative center of the Starodub regiment. In 1660 it was ravaged by the Crimean Tatars, and in 1663 by the Poles. Since the 1660s, numerous Old Believer settlements have been founded on the lands of Starodubshchina.

From the second half of the 17th century, Starodub became one of the most important centers of fair trade between Polish, Lithuanian and Russian cities. Various goods were brought in large quantities to two large fairs - Cathedral and Ten Fairs: hemp, oil, honey, wax, furs, potash, glass. The local merchants were famous for their wealth.

In 1666, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich granted Starodub a charter confirming the rights of its residents under Magdeburg Law. After a terrible fire in 1677, as a result of which all the buildings burned down, including four churches and the city ramparts, large construction began in Starodub and the entire settlement was soon restored. The only surviving monument of that time is the Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ (1677).

In the Northern War of 1700-1721, Starodub played the role of an important fortress, and the Starodub regiment took an active part in military campaigns. In the autumn of 1708, near Starodub, many days of bloody battles were fought between Swedish and Russian troops. All attempts by the Swedes to capture the city were unsuccessful. For this, Peter I awarded the Starodubites with confirmation of the liberties they received under Magdeburg law. In 1708, “the Swedes and Krauts and the entire embassy in Starodub” killed up to 50 Jews.

After the abolition of the regimental division of Little Russia and the establishment of governorships, Starodub from 1782 became a district town, first of the Novgorod-Seversk governorship (1782), and then of the Chernigov province (1802). By this time there were 18 churches and more than a thousand courtyards. In the same 1782, the city’s coat of arms was approved - “an oak in a silver field”, made on the basis of the coat of arms of the regimental banner.

The period from the end of the 18th century and throughout the 19th century was characterized by intensive construction initiated by the wealthy merchants. Almost all the architectural monuments that have survived to this day were built then, most of which, unfortunately, are in a deplorable state today.

By 1897, the number of households increased to 1,475, and the population numbered about 12 thousand. The growth of the city was associated with some growth in industry. During this period, four hemp-scraping factories, a tannery and a brewery operated in Starodub, and four fairs were held annually. In 1900, a railway line was built from Unecha station, which included Starodub in the Russian transport network.

 

XX century

In 1917-1918, Starodub was part of the Ukrainian People's Republic (it was part of the land of Severshchyna) and the Ukrainian state of Skoropadsky.
The beginning of 1918 - the establishment of Soviet power.
On February 19, 1918, at the Congress of Soviets of Mglinsky, Surazhsky, Starodubsky and Novozybkovsky districts, which was held in Unecha under the leadership of P. B. Shimanovsky, it was decided to unite them due to rejection of the policy of the Ukrainian Rada.
March 1918 - the first battles with the Germans on Bryansk land.
On April 10, 1918, Starodub was captured by German troops.
Mid 1918. Resistance to the German occupiers covered Novozybkovsky, part of Starodubsky and Surazhsky districts. Rebel partisan detachments attacked German and Haidamak units and prevented the export of property and food looted by the invaders to Germany.
On November 25, 1918, the city was liberated by the forces of the Tarashchansky regiment. Soviet power has been restored.
On January 1, 1919, the First Congress of the Communist Party of Belarus (Bolsheviks) adopted a resolution according to which Starodub was designated as the center of the subdistrict of the Gomel region within the SSR of Belarus.
January 16, 1919 - December 1926 Starodub - the center of the district of the Gomel province as part of the RSFSR.
1926-1929 - as part of the Bryansk province of the RSFSR.
1929-1937 - in the Western region of the RSFSR.
1937-1944 - in the Oryol region.
In March-June 1941, on the basis of the order of the NKO, according to the directive of the Military Council of the Oryol Military District No. 003000 dated 03/05/1941, the 222nd Infantry Division was formed in Starodub.
On August 18, 1941, it was captured by Nazi troops during the Battle of Smolensk. During the occupation, 336 residential buildings, pedagogical college and ten-year school buildings, and all industrial and cultural and educational institutions were almost completely destroyed.
In September 1941, the occupation authorities, using local auxiliary police, carried out an action to “evict” Jews from Starodub to the ghetto on the territory of the former Belovshchina state farm. On February 24-27, 1942, all residents of the ghetto, including children, were shot.
September 22, 1943 - liberated by the troops of the Bryansk Front (348th Infantry Division of Major General I.G. Grigorievsky and 250th Infantry Division of Colonel I.V. Mokhin).
Since 1944, part of the Bryansk region.
In 1962, the Bryanskgrazhdanproekt Institute developed a project for the reconstruction of urban development, according to which the city was reconstructed. Fortunately, the project did not introduce anything significant into the planning structure, limiting itself to partial reconstruction of the main highways and straightening of some streets. Therefore, the main advantage of the city has been preserved - the almost untouched ancient planning structure, a rare example of pre-regular urban planning.

 

Economy

The main enterprises of the city are TNV "Syr Starodubsky", OJSC "Konservsushprod".

 

Education

The city is home to the Starodub Industrial and Technological College named after Hero of Russia A.S. Zaitsev, three secondary schools, the Cossack Cadet Corps named after. Hero of the Soviet Union A. Tarasenko, children's art school named after. A. I. Rubtsa, children's creativity center, TsEVD "Merry Crew" as part of the Starodubsky CDT

 

Culture and sports

There is a local history museum, a city children's library, and at the service of citizens there is the Zarya stadium (matches of the Bryansk region football championship are held here), the Starodub indoor sports complex (various sections are open, competitions in various sports are held all year round), an ice palace, there is a flying club.

 

Correctional Facility

Currently, correctional colony No. 5 of the Federal Penitentiary Service of Russia in the Bryansk Region operates in the city. The institution was located almost in the city center on Semashko Street. The building of the former religious school, built in the 1870s, is now one of the buildings of the correctional institution.

At the beginning of the 20th century, future clergy were trained in this building, and since 1932, these buildings were transferred to a colony for street girls. During the Great Patriotic War, after the liberation of these places from the occupiers, a special prison functioned here, where enemy collaborators and traitors were kept. After the war, juvenile delinquents were kept in this area.

Only in 1998 the institution became a general regime colony, and in 2016 - a maximum security colony. On the territory of the colony, several residential buildings were built, production facilities, warehouses and a bakery were located. It has its own tool and press shops, as well as a carpentry department. In 2018, the medical and sanitary part of the colony was overhauled and equipped.