Vyoshenskaya Stanitsa, Russia

Vyoshenskaya Stanitsa

 

Vyoshenskaya (in vernacular Vyoshki) is a village in the north of the Rostov region, the administrative center and the largest settlement of the Sholokhovsky district and Vyoshensky rural settlement.

Population - 9261 people (2010). In 2018, she was awarded the title "The Frontier of Military Valor".

 

Geography

The village of Vyoshenskaya is located on the left bank of the Don River. In 1963, thanks to the deputy troubles of Mikhail Aleksandrovich Sholokhov, from the city of Millerovo, through which the Moscow-Rostov-on-Don highway and the North Caucasian railway pass, an asphalt road 145 km long was laid to the village of Bazkovskaya, located on the right bank Don, opposite Vyoshenskaya.

In 1985, a bridge was erected between these villages, which replaced the ferry crossing.

There is an airport near the village. Vyoshensky oak grows at a distance of 8 kilometers from the village.

 

History

Mikhail Alexandrovich Sholokhov lived in the village of Vyoshenskaya from 1926 to 1984.

The village is located on the left bank of the Don River. Currently, it is the administrative center of the Sholokhov district of the Rostov region and the Vyoshensky settlement. Here is the center of the State Museum-Reserve M.A. Sholokhov and a number of his objects.

The name of the village, according to local historians P. Losev, A. Gribanov, writer A. Suichmezov, came from the word "milestone", "milestone": "The name came from those milestones, milestones that stood here in ancient times on a long way from the north to the south” (A.M. Suichmezov. Native Donshchina. Rostov-on-Don, 1985, p. 42). VN Korolev adheres to another, less common, version. In his opinion, the name of the town comes from the word "vezha", which means "hut, dwelling, gatehouse." He writes: “In pre-Mongolian times, the Eastern Slavs called semi-nomadic felt dwellings vezha, later known in Russian under the terms “kibitka” or “yurt” ... It is quite possible that in the Veshki region more than four hundred years ago there were huts and gatehouses - “vezhi” - the first inhabitants ”(Korolev V.N. Starye Veshki. The story of the Cossacks. Rostov-on-Don, 1991. P. 18).

There is an assumption that Vyoshenskaya was founded in the middle of the 16th century. free Cossacks of Sary Azman, and later their camp was used by Russian border detachments for their settlement. The town of Veshki was first mentioned in 1571, when Tsar Ivan the Terrible signed the “Boyar verdict on stanitsa and guard service”, in which “they mention the“ head in the field ”, which should be sent from the city of Shatsk and“ stand ”in Vezhki, above Medveditsa and Khopra." Over time, the border tract of Vezhki became the town of Veshki.

It is known that the Cossacks of the Vyoshensky town participated in the capture of Azov in 1637 and the Azov siege seat in 1641, in all land and sea campaigns of the Cossacks against the Turkish and Crimean cities of the Black Sea region. In 1670, the Vyoshenians were active participants in the peasant war led by Stepan Razin, and in 1707-1708. - Bulavinsky uprising.

According to the Don Diocesan Gazette, in 1740, due to floods, the town was moved from the floodplain to a high terrace above the Don, where it connected with the village of Reshetovskaya and received the status of a village.

In the novel "Quiet Flows the Don" M.A. Sholokhov gives a detailed description of Vyoshenskaya: “On the gently sloping sandy left bank, above the Don, lies the village of Vyoshenskaya, the oldest of the upper Don villages, transferred from the site of the Chigonatskaya village devastated under Peter I, renamed Vyoshenskaya. The milestone was once along the large waterway Voronezh - Azov. Against the village, the Don arches like a kobarzhina of the Tatar sagaydak, as if turning to the right, and near the farm of Bazka again majestically straightens up, carries greenish, translucent blue waters past the chalk spurs of the right-bank mountains, past solid farms on the right side, past rare villages on the left side to the sea, to blue Azov…

Vyoshenskaya - all in the mound of yellow sands. A sad, bald village without gardens. On the square there is an old cathedral, gray with time, six streets are laid out along the Don. Where the Don, arching, leaves the village for Bazki, a lake, as wide as the Don in shallow water, leaves like a sleeve in a thicket of poplars. At the end of the lake, the village also ends. On a small square, overgrown with needle-gold thorns, there is a second church, green domes, a green roof, matching the color of the greenery of the poplars that have grown on the other side of the lake ”(Sholokhov M.A. Collected works in 8 vols. Vol. 1. M ., 1985, p. 146).

During the resettlement of the town, the wooden church of the Archangel Michael was also moved to a new place, then the construction of a stone church with a bell tower and a chapel of St. John the Theologian began. The aisle was consecrated on November 26, 1780, and the main altar on December 28, 1786.

In 1853, in the eastern part of the village, construction began on a stone church in the name of the Holy Trinity with a chapel of the Dormition of the Mother of God. The temple was consecrated in 1858. In 1936, at a joint meeting of the bureau of the district committee and the presidium of the RIK (a), a decision was made to demolish the Trinity Church (minutes No. 8 of March 9, 1936 “On the closure of the church in the village of Vyoshenskaya”). February 9, 1937 Holy Trinity Church was blown up. In 1993, a memorial cross was erected at this place.

St. Michael the Archangel parish was closed in 1937, and the church building was adapted for a granary. The temple survived only thanks to the intercession of Sholokhov, who convinced the authorities not to blow it up. In 1946, the parish was opened and has been operating to this day.

In the old days, all economic and civil affairs of the Cossacks of the village of Vyoshenskaya were decided at gatherings, which were the highest authority. Each Cossack was given the right to speak on the issue brought up for discussion or to make proposals. The decision was taken by simple vote.

The first stanitsa ataman was Ivan Fedorovich Shchepotkin. In the confessional manuscript of the Vyoshenskaya Church for 1745, the names of the Cossacks who lived in the village are mentioned: Averkin, Dudarev, Zykov, Kolundaev, Kaledin, Soldatov, Likhovidov, Bolgarov, Popov.

In 1782, Vyoshenskaya was almost completely burned down in a fire, then rebuilt.

In the XVIII century. Don had the board and warehouse of the Singer Manufactory Company, which was engaged in the sale of sewing machines, mowers and agricultural implements, as well as bulk grain of famous Paramonov merchants. There was a trade in industrial and food products in the shops of the merchants Khrennikov, Mokhov, Konev, Sergichev. In the first half of the XIX century. Sholokhov's grandfather Mikhail Mikhailovich Sholokhov settled in Vyoshenskaya, started a family and started trading.

In Vyoshenskaya there were a stanitsa and two farm reception rooms, a post and telegraph office. In 1861, the first educational institution was opened - a stanitsa one-class men's parish school, in 1863 - a one-class women's school of the third category (subsequently both schools were transformed into two-class ones). In 1915, a women's gymnasium was opened, and in 1917, two gymnasiums: an eight-grade and a four-grade gymnasium. In 1918, by decision of the stanitsa assembly, both gymnasiums were located in a two-story building of the stanitsa administration and merged into a mixed gymnasium, which received the name "Vyoshenskaya gymnasium named after the fallen fighters for the liberation of the Native Land." From autumn 1918 to spring 1919. M.A. studied there. Sholokhov.

According to V.N. Koroleva, 715 people lived in Vyoshenskaya in 1867. (345 men and 370 women); in 1915 - 1863 people. (732 yards). Currently, the population of Vyoshenskaya is 9704 people.

In the first half of the XIX century. the village of Vyoshenskaya belonged to the Ust-Medveditsky district of the Don Army Region and was the center of the Vyoshensky yurt, at the end of the 19th century. Vyoshensky yurt went to the Donetsk district.

In 1918, the Don Cossack Oblast was renamed into the Oblast of the Great Don Cossack Army, a new district was formed - Verkhne-Donskoy, with the center in Vyoshenskaya.

In 1923, the Verkhne-Donskoy district was liquidated, Vyoshenskaya became the center of the volost and was assigned to the Donetsk district. In 1924, the volost was liquidated and the Vyoshensky district was formed with the center in Vyoshenskaya. In 1984, the Vyoshensky district was renamed Sholokhovsky.

During the Civil War, Vyoshenskaya was the site of fierce fighting. On April 23, 1918, Soviet power was established in the Upper Don District (GARO, f. R-3440, op. 1, d. 3, l. 140). On the night of March 10-11, 1919, the Cossacks raised an uprising against the "Bolsheviks and executions", which became a response to the decossackization policy pursued by the Central Committee of the RCP (b). Vyoshenskaya became the center of the uprising that engulfed the entire district. The events of the Upper Don (Vyoshensky) uprising are dedicated to the 3rd book of The Quiet Don by M.A. Sholokhov.

During the Great Patriotic War, the front came close to Vyoshenskaya, but the enemy failed to cross the Don. The headquarters of the 197th Infantry Division of General M.I. Zaporozhchenko, front-line medical institutions, supply agencies of the troops, she was subjected to shelling and bombing. In 1942, the house where the Sholokhovs lived was destroyed by a fascist bomb, and the writer's mother died.

After the war, Vyoshenskaya was rebuilt. M.A. Sholokhov, as a deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, made a great contribution to the improvement of the village, the arrangement of the life of the inhabitants. On the initiative of the writer and with his assistance, a water supply system, a power station, a television repeater, schools were built, a house for children's creativity, an art school, a pedagogical school with a whole complex of buildings - an educational building, a library, a hostel, houses for teachers, were organized, the Don Research Experimental a station that grew pine seedlings to strengthen the sands, a forest protection zone was established on the banks of the Don.

M.A. Sholokhov was the initiator of the creation of a folk Cossack choir and a theater of Cossack youth, with his support the Vyoshensky sanatorium, the Palace of Culture, an airport, an asphalt road to the city of Millerovo were built, the construction of a bridge over the Don River was started, which was completed after his death.

Already in the 1930s. the village of Vyoshenskaya became a place of pilgrimage for admirers of Sholokhov's work. Many famous people have been here - Soviet and foreign writers, actors, politicians, public figures.

Today the village is a leading center of culture and education, a key object of cultural tourism. Objects of the M.A. Sholokhov - the only museum of federal significance in the Rostov region - is visited by more than 100 thousand tourists a year.

A bronze bust of the writer and a sculptural composition "Grigory and Aksinya" are installed on the stanitsa embankment, a sculptural composition "Grandfather Shchukar" is installed in the park, a bas-relief in memory of the meeting in 1967 of Vyoshentsev with the first cosmonaut Yu. Gagarin, near the Palace of Culture, is installed in the center of the village - the monument "Oath", dedicated to the liberation of the area from the Nazi invaders.

Every year in May, Vyoshenskaya hosts the All-Russian literary and folklore festival "Sholokhov Spring", dedicated to the writer's birthday, which gathers thousands of admirers of his work.

 

How to get there

By plane you need to get to Rostov, and from the main city of the region there is a direct road to Veshenskaya. You will have to spend about 8 hours on the way.

By train, it is best to get to Millerovo station, from where buses leave for the village. On the way - 3 hours. If you want to get to Sholokhov's homeland faster, then take a taxi. The driver will drive you to your destination for a couple of thousand and an hour and a half.

By private car, you need to drive along the M4 highway exactly to the intersection: if you go straight, you will get to Rostov, to the right - to Millerovo, and to the left - to Veshenskaya, which will be 140 kilometers away.

 

Transport

Approximately 9 thousand people live in Veshenskaya. So the best public transport here is minibuses or buses that run along the highway from Moscow to Rostov. Between this village and Bazkovskaya, located on the opposite bank of the Don, a bridge was erected, which replaced the ferry crossing.

 

Cuisine and restaurants

There are two restaurants worth visiting in Vyoshenskaya - "Khutorok" and "Pogrebok". These are such culinary islands of Cossack cuisine, where dishes are brought to folk music that you are unlikely to try anywhere else.

For example, the Cellar is decorated in the style of a kuren with elements of Cossack life. It is hidden in a quiet street under a vineyard. The portions are huge, almost for two. Here you can order Don fish soup, okroshka, dumplings, rich borscht and mushrooms.

 

Veshenskaya Hotels

As many as five hotels operate in Vyoshenskaya. Here you can rent a cozy room for a moderate fee. The hotels offer healthy, home-cooked food, which the owners claim is made from only organic ingredients. In principle, there is no reason not to trust them.

In addition, hotels offer guests various excursions. For example, you can go to the forest for mushrooms, go fishing on the Don, take a steam bath, take a horse ride.

And in Veshenskaya there is a balneological resort of the same name. Diseases of the musculoskeletal system, peripheral nervous system and diabetes are treated here. There is a mineral spring on the territory of the sanatorium - its waters are used for drinking, baths and procedures in the pool. The resort is open all year round.