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Arkhangelsk is a large city in the north-west of
Russia, located at the mouth of the Northern Dvina, 40 km from its
confluence with the White Sea, the administrative center of the
Arkhangelsk region.
Arkhangelsk is a northern port of Russia
on the banks of the Northern Dvina. The settlements founded in the
12th century by Novgorodians in 1584, by decree of Ivan the
Terrible, were formed into a city around the Mikhailo-Arkhangelsk
Monastery located on Cape Pur-Navolok. In the middle of the next
century, the monastery burned down and was revived in a new place,
south of the actively built city. During the years of Soviet power,
it was demolished, now this place is built up with residential
buildings. The history of the emergence of Arkhangelsk is reflected
in its coat of arms, which depicts the Archangel Michael,
traditionally striking the devil with a sword (the coats of arms of
the same subject have Brussels and Byala Podlaska). In Soviet times,
the drawing of the coat of arms was replaced with something of a
nautical and logging theme, however, by the 400th anniversary of
Arkhangelsk, it was returned to the city, although the composition
was somewhat modernized. It is interesting that the name of the
city, despite its “ideological alienation”, did not change in Soviet
times, while neighboring Severodvinsk, which was formed around
another monastery, Nikolo-Korelsky, managed to visit both Sudostroy
and Molotovsky before getting its current name.
The
population of Arkhangelsk was originally made up of Pomors, who
lived by fishing, to which trade was soon added. Being the only port
in Russia, Arkhangelsk developed rapidly and grew rich. At first,
Peter I paid special attention to the city. However, soon after
Russia's access to the Baltic Sea and the founding of St.
Petersburg, the significance of Arkhangelsk as a port weakened. Only
in the 19th century the port was revived as the country's timber
export center; moreover, it was from Arkhangelsk that expeditions
were sent to explore the Arctic. After the formation in 1916 of
another northern port - Murmansk, Arkhangelsk finally lost its
importance as an important port, this function returned to it only
for a few war years.
During the Civil War, Arkhangelsk was
captured by the Entente troops, which is still evidenced by
memorials and mass graves. During the Great Patriotic War,
Arkhangelsk and Murmansk were one of the main ports that received
cargo from the Allied countries under Lend-Lease.
At present,
Arkhangelsk is a large industrial center, mainly wood processing
(more than 25 sawmills). There are several universities in the city
- both their own and branches of higher educational institutions in
Moscow and St. Petersburg. In addition, Arkhangelsk quite rightly
bears the title of the cultural capital of the Russian North: there
are several theaters and museums, a philharmonic society, exhibition
halls, and various exhibitions and festivals are regularly held. The
music scene is highly developed, and some rock bands in Arkhangelsk
are known far beyond its borders.
In general, Arkhangelsk
gives, on the one hand, the impression of a really developed and
cultural city, it is picturesque and there is something to see and
do in it, but on the other hand, this impression can be greatly
spoiled by the terrible situation with public transport, as well as
unkemptness and devastation , which is not very noticeable in the
center, but in other areas comes to the fore.
Arkhangelsk is located on the banks and islands of the Northern
Dvina. There are several bridges across the river and its branches. The
historical core - the current central districts of the city - was formed
from Cape Pur-Navolok as a reference point; the cape is located on the
right bank of the river, near the place where a large branch called
Kuznechikha departs from it. The streets here run either parallel to the
Northern Dvina embankment in a smooth semicircle, or depart from the
embankment deep into the mainland.
Now Arkhangelsk is divided into
several city districts:
Lomonosovsky and Oktyabrsky districts are
the central districts of the city, the first of which is located to the
south, and the second to the north
Okrug Varavino-Faktoria - areas on
the right bank in the southeastern part of the city, colloquially the
districts of Varavino and Factoria
Isakogorsky district - Isakogorka,
a district in the south of the city, on the left bank of the Dvina
Maimaksan district - Maimaksa, an area in the northwest beyond Solombala
Okrug Mayskaya Gorka - an area in the southeast, between Lomonosovsky
and Varavino
Solombala District - the historical district of
Solombala on the left bank of the Northern Dvina
Northern District -
an area on the left bank north of Solombala
Tsiglomensky district -
Tsiglomen, a district in the west, behind Kegostrov
Most of the sights of Arkhangelsk are concentrated on or near four city highways: these are Troitsky Prospekt, the Northern Dvina Embankment, Lomonosov Prospekt and Chumbarov-Luchinsky Prospekt. There is something remarkable in Solombala. There are quite a lot of various monuments in Arkhangelsk, as well as several dozens of ancient buildings. Each building is carefully provided with a large brass plaque with a brief description of the architectural monument, so you won't pass by. However, there is no connected excursion route for these attractions.
The central avenue of Arkhangelsk, the center of public and business
life of the city. On the avenue there is a stele "Zero Mile", "Obelisk
of the North", installed in 1930 in honor of the formation of the
Northern Territory (Arkhangelsk region) and a monument to the
revolutionary Pavlin Vinogradov, in whose honor the avenue was renamed
in Soviet times. And, of course, a monument to Lenin on Lenin Square,
past which the avenue passes.
1 Obelisk of the North , Troitsky
Prospekt (near house 49). On the five-sided pedestal there is a
sculptural group "Pomor with a Reindeer" 6 meters high and a four-sided
obelisk. Five bas-reliefs on the walls of the pedestal reflect the
branches of the national economy of the North. In the center of the
composition is a sickle and a hammer. Also a magnificent classic, but
this time Soviet. Something similar can be seen at almost every old
Moscow or St. Petersburg metro station.
2 Captured British tank
(English Mark V tank, 1919) , Troitsky Prospekt (at the intersection
with Karl Marx Street). It was erected in 1940 as a monument - a symbol
of the victory of the Red Army over the interventionists during the
Civil War, has the unofficial name "Monument to Churchill". A very
popular monument in Arkhangelsk, an old hangout place. However, due to
its popularity and venerable age, it lost its presentation and from 2006
to 2010 was under restoration. On June 17, 2011, it was returned to its
original place and covered from sin with a glass case, which somewhat
upsets the natives and tourists, since it is now impossible to climb the
tank.
The longest and most beautiful embankment, built up with buildings of
all styles and purposes - churches, residential buildings, museums,
factories, hotels, educational institutions, shops, etc .; the time
range is from the middle of the 17th to the beginning of the 21st
century. On the embankment there are the schooner "West", the Victory
monument, the stele "City of Military Glory", monuments to the Solovki
cabin boys, participants in the northern convoys, Peter and Fevronia,
victims of the intervention. Beautiful views of the Northern Dvina are
greatly spoiled by the lack of normal approaches to the water: almost
everywhere between the pedestrian sidewalk along the embankment and the
river itself there is a littered and completely untidy beach.
3 Monument to Peter I , the embankment of the Northern Dvina (Petrovsky
Park). This is one of the five monuments cast on the model of the
sculptor Mark Antokolsky and installed in different cities of Russia
(there are also such monuments in St. rubles.
4 Monument to M. V.
Lomonosov, the embankment of the Northern Dvina (near the main building
of the Northern (Arctic) Federal University). The first monument to
Lomonosov in Russia (and not the only one in Arkhangelsk, there are two
more, but more modest). Made in 1829 by the famous sculptor Ivan Martos
in a magnificent classical style: the monument consists of two figures -
Lomonosov standing in a flowing Roman toga and a naked winged genius
giving him a lyre, dropping to his left knee. Now this composition looks
somewhat comical, but in historical terms, of course, it is of interest.
5 Gostinyy dvor/ Seating yard
(Гостиный двор) , the embankment of the Northern Dvina.
Remains of the gostiny yards of Arkhangelsk. At the moment, a fragment
of a wall with a built-in stock exchange building and one tower has been
preserved, which have been well restored. They are under the
jurisdiction of the local history museum.
6 Cape Pur-Navolok. The
place of foundation of the city in the bend of the Dvina.
7 Monument
to the Savior Seal, the embankment of the Northern Dvina. A very sad and
touching tribute. Few people know that during the war the inhabitants of
Arkhangelsk suffered from hunger in much the same way as the inhabitants
of the besieged Leningrad. To avoid starvation, the inhabitants began to
hunt seals. The meat, fat and skins of seals saved thousands of people
from hunger and cold not only in Arkhangelsk and nearby areas, but also
in Leningrad, since more than a thousand tons of food and medical fat
from seal fat were sent there from Arkhangelsk to eliminate the
consequences of the blockade. In addition, seal oil was used to
lubricate the guns on the ships of the Northern Fleet. The idea of such
a monument arose immediately after the war, but for unknown reasons it
was built much later - in 2010. They say that at the opening of the
monument along the Northern Dvina, seals sailed to the embankment, which
are usually not seen within the city.
8 Monument to the Solovetsky
Cadets, the embankment of the Northern Dvina (at the beginning of Karl
Marx Street). The monument was erected in 1993 in memory of the cabin
boys who studied at the Solovetsky youth school, which existed in
1942-1945 on the Solovetsky Islands. Boys were officially recruited to
the school at the age of 15-16, but, according to stories, there were
many younger cadets who attributed years to themselves in order to get
there. Over the three years of its existence, the school has released
more than four thousand cadets, a quarter of whom died during the war
years.
9 Mansion of A. Surkov , Popova Street, 1 (crossing from the
embankment of the Northern Dvina). The carved wooden mansion was built
in 1851 and belonged to Albert Surkov, a prominent Arkhangelsk
industrialist. Now the building houses a children's art school. Nearby
you can see the ugly, but still picturesque building complex of Surkov's
brewery.
10 Compound of the Solovetsky Monastery, embankment of the
Northern Dvina, 77/1. A complex of stone buildings of the 19th century
with a church, located in the historical center of the city.
11 St.
Nicholas Church, Teatralny Lane, 3. One of the few churches in
Arkhangelsk that survived during the years of Soviet power. It features
unusual architecture and bright painting of the facade.
12 Assumption
Borovskaya Church, Loginova Street, 1 (at the intersection with the
Northern Dvina embankment). An elegant church of the middle of the 18th
century, historically interesting also because at the beginning of the
20th century its high bell tower tilted like the Leaning Tower of Pisa,
but then it was still straightened. In the 1930s it was razed to the
ground. In the 2000s, it was restored on the original foundation from
historical photographs. Very effectively reflected in the Northern
Dvina.
13 Monument to Admiral N. G. Kuznetsov, the embankment of the
Northern Dvina.
14 Holy Trinity Church, Komsomolskaya street, 1 (at
the intersection with the Northern Dvina embankment). One of the ancient
temples of the city (mid-18th century). Restoring.
15 Cathedral of
the Archangel Michael, 51 Northern Dvina embankment. The grandiose (in
terms of size) brick cathedral with white marble cladding was built in
2008-2019 on the banks of the Northern Dvina. It owes its dedication to
the ancient Archangel Michael Monastery, located on the banks of the
same river, although in different places: before the fire of 1636, it
stood on Cape Pur-Navolok, and after it the monastery was rebuilt
upstream from the current location of the cathedral . The monastery
buildings of the 17th century were demolished in the 1930s.
Pedestrian street in the city center. There are monuments to Kozma
Prutkov, storytellers Boris Shergin and Semyon Pisakhov, Pisakhov's
literary character Sena Malina (riding burbot), residents of military
Arkhangelsk and Russian wives waiting for their husbands from fishing.
The street was created mainly as a tourist attraction, for which two
dozen remodeled wooden houses in the Pomeranian style were built along
it; while the originals, which were taken as a sample (and quite
accurately reproduced), stand in the neighboring streets and, for the
most part, quietly rot. However, there are also real old buildings on
the avenue: these are, for example, the Antonov's estate in the Art
Nouveau style (houses 18 and 20), the stone building of P.A. Dmitrievsky
(house 24), rather badly mutilated by advertising, but still a beautiful
house of A.S. Chudinov (house 30, moved here from the embankment of the
Northern Dvina) and the beautiful carved "Marfin House" (house 38, moved
from Troitsky Prospekt). Near Chudinov's house there is a small travel
agency building, where you can get hold of booklets, souvenirs, etc. for
free or for money. There are also quite a few cafes and shops on the
avenue.
Monument to S.G. Pisakhov, Chumbarov-Luchinsky Avenue.
Monument to the Arkhangelsk peasant Senya Malina, Chumbarov-Luchinsky
Avenue. Monument to one of the heroes of Pisakhov's fairy tales.
Building of design organizations (1983). The tallest (24 floors)
building in the city, colloquially referred to as "Pencil" or
"High-rise".
St. Ilyinsky Cathedral, Ilyinskaya street, 10. Cemetery
church, built in 1809. The church has been restored, but the old
Ilyinsky cemetery, where many famous people are buried, has not yet
reached the hands.
Sculpture of Archangel Michael, Ilinskaya street.
Lutheran Church of St. Catherine, Karl Marx Street, 3. Currently, it
houses the chamber hall of the Pomeranian Philharmonic
Genuine tank
of the Second World War IS-3.
Wooden Anglican Church (1853), Georgy
Sedov embankment, 14.
Arkhangelsk courtyard of the
Solovetsky monastery (Архангельское подворье Соловецкого
монастыря)
Museum of S.G. Pisakhova
(Музей С.Г. Писахова)
Old mansion
(Старинный особняк)
Cathedral of
Elijah the Prophet (Кафедральный собор Илии Пророка)
Lutheran Church of St. Catherine
(Лютеранская церковь св. Екатерины)
All Saints
Church (Церковь Всех Святых)
Regional Drama Theater (Областной драматический театр)
State Regional Youth Theater
(Государственный областной молодежный театр)
Puppet Theatre (Театр кукол)
Santa Claus village in Solombala, Nikolsky pr., 15/2, 19, 21 52. Winter children's entertainment complex.
Drama
Theater named after M.V. Lomonosov E , Petrovsky Park, 1. ✉ ☎ +7
(818) 220-84-34 (ticket office).
Pomeranian Philharmonic , pl.
Lenina, 1.
Arkhangelsk Youth Theater V.P. Panova, st. Loginova, 9 (at
the intersection with Troitsky Prospekt). ✉ ☎ +7 (818) 265-21-43. 400₽.
Located in a very beautiful carved wooden mansion N.O. Sharvin.
Museum of local lore
(Краеведческий музей) , pl. Lenina, 2. In addition to the
two lower floors in the building on Lenin Square, the museum occupies
the building of the Russian Gostiny Dvor, where the main part of the
expositions and exhibitions is located.
Museum of Fine Arts (Музей изобразительного искусства),
pl. Lenina, 2. ☎ +7 (818) 265-36-16. 10:00–18:00 (ticket office closes
45 minutes earlier), except Tue. 200₽.
Museum of Artistic
Development of the Arctic (Музей художественного
освоения Арктики), Pomorskaya st., 3. ☎ +7 (818) 220-56-47.
10:00–18:00 (ticket office closes 45 minutes earlier), except Tue. 150₽.
Alexander Alekseevich Borisov is a world-famous painter, a student of
Shishkin and Kuindzhi, he was the first polar artist who created
monumental images of the Far North. The artist's works are exhibited,
there is also the Nenets Decorative and Applied Art hall, video
installations, old maps, and so on.
Museum of the artist and
storyteller S.G. Pisakhova, Pomorskaya st., 10. Since 2011, it has been
closed for reconstruction, they promise to open it again someday.
Pisakhov's paintings, personal items, photographs, letters were
exhibited.
Manor house of E.K. Plotnikova, emb. Northern Dvina, 72
(Pomorskaya street, 1). ☎ +7 (818) 220-07-86. 10:00–18:00 (ticket office
closes 45 minutes earlier), except Tue. 150₽. City manor of the
beginning of the 19th century. In the main building, where ancient
interiors have been restored, there is a branch of the art museum.
Exhibits classical and contemporary art. Exhibitions are being held.
An old mansion on the Embankment, emb. Northern Dvina, 79. ☎ +7 (818)
220-73-63. 10:00–18:00 (ticket office closes 45 minutes earlier), except
Tue. 100₽. One of the buildings of a large old shopping complex, after
restoration it is used as a branch of an art museum. Exposition:
"Portrait in an old interior".
Northern
Maritime Museum (Северный морской музей) , emb. Northern
Dvina, 80. ☎ +7 (818) 220-55-16. 10:00–18:00, 11:00–19:00 (Sat, Sun),
closed Mon,. 120₽. The only state maritime museum of a scientific and
technical profile in Russia. It is located in the building of the former
sea station.
Estate of M.T. Kunitsynoy, 17. ✉ Chumbarova-Luchinsky
ave. 150₽. Branch of the Museum of Wooden Architecture "Small Korely". A
kind of museum of local peasant life, located in a restored wooden
manor. The complex includes the ethnocultural center "Craft Yard".
Aviation Museum of the North, Talazhsky aviation town, 8. ✉ ☎ +7 (818)
263-15-64. 10:00–17:00, except Sun. 150₽.
Museum of Wooden Architecture 'Malye Korely' (Музей деревянного зодчества 'Малые Корелы')
The most comfortable time to see Arkhangelsk is summer. During
May, June, and July the sun seems to spend 24/7 in the sky. This is
actually not so: Arkhangelsk is 300 km south of the Arctic Circle,
so it doesn't have polar days or polar nights. But prepare to be
awakened by sun peering through you window at 2 AM in summer. The
other side of this is 2-4 hours of light per day in winter.
Spring is late (snowfalls in May are quite usual), summer is
relatively warm (+20-25C), first snow comes in October or November,
winters are harsh (-20-30C, windy). From November to May, the
Northern Dvina and White Sea are covered with ice, and ship
navigation is possible with icebreakers only.
In the first decades of its existence, the city was called the New City, New Kholmogory, New Kholmogory City. These names were connected with the fact that the role of the main port on the Northern Dvina passed from the village of Kholmogory to the city being created. The inhabitants of the created city themselves called it after the monastery - "Arkhangelsk City", and since 1613 this name was adopted as an official one (hence the ethno-moronimum "Arkhangelsk people" that has survived to this day). Over time, the name of the city was fixed in use in the form of Arkhangelsk.
The Archangel Michael Monastery on Cape
Pur-Navolok was first mentioned in chronicles in 1419, when it was
devastated by the Norwegians (Murmans).
In 1553, the
Englishman Richard Chancellor sailed along the White Sea to the
village of Nyonoksa on the Summer Coast, and then to the
Nikolo-Korelsky Monastery on Yagry Island (now the territory of the
city of Severodvinsk). Since that time, trade with the British and
Dutch at the mouth of the Northern Dvina began to develop rapidly.
In connection with the threat of an attack by Sweden on March 4
(14), 1583, Ivan the Terrible signed a decree ordering the
construction of a fortress on Cape Pur-Navolok.
It was
founded by decree of Ivan the Terrible as a settlement of the
Mikhailo-Arkhangelsk Monastery. In 1584, which is considered the
year of the foundation of the city, the governors “in one year ...
set the city around the Arkhangelsk monastery” and a prison. The
resulting settlement was named Novokholmogory. Opposite the
fortress, on the Dvina coast, a ship pier was built.
Since
the end of the 80s of the 16th century, the settlement of
Novokholmogory became the center of Russian foreign trade, bringing
in up to 61% of the state treasury income. On March 26 (April 5),
1596, the new city on the Dvina was first named the Arkhangelsk City
after the monastery located in it, and on August 1 (11), 1613, this
name was approved in connection with the official decision on the
administrative independence of the city of Arkhangelsk from
Kholmogor.
The growth of
trade was accompanied by the development of the city. Dense wooden
buildings were the cause of many fires, in one of which, in 1637,
the Mikhailo-Arkhangelsky Monastery, which gave the city its name,
burned down.
The vigorous activity of the international
trading port in the second half of the 17th century contributed to a
change in the traditional structure of that medieval Russian city,
which it was during the first century of its existence. Its center
was the port, which also had its own flotilla. The former center, a
wooden prison, lost some of its administrative functions, as the
command hut was transferred from it to the “stone city”. By the end
of the 17th century and in the next century, Arkhangelsk grew along
the Dvina.
With the outbreak of the Northern War, the White
Sea became for Russia the only safe trade route to Western Europe.
In this regard, the production activity of the Solombala shipyard
has increased. To protect the city, port and shipyard, the
construction of the Novodvinsk fortress began in early 1701. In the
very first year of its existence, the fortress justified its
purpose, repelling the attack of the Swedish detachment of ships. In
the future, the fortifications of Arkhangelsk from the sea were
updated and strengthened with the deterioration of relations with
Sweden, especially on a large scale in 1790, 1800-1801.
In
1708, among the 8 provinces of the Russian Empire, the Arkhangelsk
province was formed, the city became the center of the province. The
first governor was the Dvina governor P. A. Golitsyn.
Beginning in 1713, Tsar Peter I began by his decrees to hamper trade
through Arkhangelsk, actually sacrificing his interests in favor of
the new Baltic port of St. Petersburg. Here he allowed to import
only such a quantity of goods that was necessary "to feed the
population." In 1718, Peter I issued a decree prohibiting the export
of bread and the import of most foreign goods through Arkhangelsk.
During the reign of Catherine
II, restrictions on foreign trade through the northern gates of
Russia were lifted, but the city was no longer able to regain the
status of the main port of the country.
During the Napoleonic
Wars and in connection with the continental blockade of Great
Britain in 1807-1813, Arkhangelsk experienced a new economic
upsurge, as it was the only port in Russia where British goods could
arrive. The city continued to be one of the major shipbuilding
centers.
At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th
centuries, Arkhangelsk turned into the largest timber industry and
timber export center of the country.
The city also served as
an important base for the development of the Arctic and the
establishment of navigation along the Northern Sea Route. More than
two hundred polar research expeditions departed from the berths of
the port, including V. Ya. Chichagova, F. P. Litke, V. A. Rusanova,
P. K. Pakhtusov, G. Ya. Sedov.
In 1915, an icebreaking bureau
was opened under the management of the Arkhangelsk Commercial Port,
which included 13 icebreakers and icebreaking ships, which laid the
foundation for an icebreaking flotilla. During the winter
navigation, these ships provided escort for ships from the throat of
the White Sea to Arkhangelsk. During the First World War, a huge
flow of military cargo to Russia from the allied powers of the
Entente went through the port of Arkhangelsk.
With the
founding of the port of Murmansk in 1916 on the coast of the
ice-free Kola Bay, where fish processing and ship repair enterprises
were moved over time, the city lost its unique significance as the
main northern port.
During the Civil War, it became the mainstay of the formation of
the Northern White Army under the command of General Miller and the
center of foreign intervention. At that time, Arkhangelsk was the
capital of the Northern Region. Taken in 1920 by units of the Red
Army.
By the Decree of the Presidium of the All-Russian
Central Executive Committee “On the Formation of
Administrative-Territorial Associations of Territorial and Regional
Significance on the Territory of the RSFSR” of January 14, 1929,
from October 1, 1929, the Northern Territory was formed with the
center in the city of Arkhangelsk.
Despite the ideology of
the Soviet state and the religious connotations of the city's name,
they did not change it. Nevertheless, the Soviet period was marked
by the destruction and demolition of many monuments of ancient
architecture. More than a dozen churches were destroyed, including
the oldest buildings in the city: the Archangel Monastery with a
cathedral of 1685-1689, the Nativity Church of 1696-1712, the
Resurrection Church of 1699-1715, the Trinity Cathedral of
1709-1743, the Assumption Church of 1744 and the Naval Cathedral of
the Transfiguration on the island of Solombala.
During the
war years, Arkhangelsk with Murmansk and Molotovsk was one of the
main ports that received cargo from allied countries under
Lend-Lease. Materials totaling 11.3 billion for the USSR ($138.31
billion in 2008 prices) were sent to recipients. The military winter
of 1941-1942 turned out to be severe, navigation began hard. The
preparation and arrangement of berths in Arkhangelsk and Molotovsk
went in a hurry. In December, assistant commanders of the US Navy
arrived to organize permanent US missions to the receiving areas.
Their work was led by Assistant Attache Philip Worchell. By the
winter of 1942-1943, the situation in the northern directions had
deteriorated sharply. The enemy sought to cut the Kirov railway, the
land connection with Murmansk would then be interrupted. At the
direction of the Soviet government and People's Commissar of the
Navy Nikolai Kuznetsov, Arkhangelsk and Molotovsk became the main
recipients of Lend-Lease cargo.
In an effort to disrupt the
supply of military cargo to the USSR, German aviation from 1941 to
1944 carried out reconnaissance and bomber raids by single aircraft
and small groups on Arkhangelsk (the first single aircraft appeared
over the city on June 30, 1941). In August-September 1942, German
aviation undertook several massive air raids on Arkhangelsk, during
which over 40 various industrial facilities and buildings were
destroyed (including rope and knitting factories, a railway
station), the Krasnaya Kuznitsa shipbuilding plant was badly
damaged, and 215 residential buildings (the Germans dropped
incendiary bombs on the blocks of wooden buildings and even poured
out a combustible mixture). According to official Soviet data, 148
people were killed in the city from bombing and fires, 126 people
were injured and shell-shocked. But the most important object - the
Arkhangelsk seaport - received only minor damage and continued to
work.
Living conditions in the city during wartime were
difficult: due to the reorientation of almost all industrial
production of the USSR to the needs of the front and a sharp
reduction in the fishing fleet, there was a shortage even in vital
food products. In the first military winter, the number of people
with scurvy, pellagra, rickets increased sharply, and after them the
mortality rate. 28 thousand people died of starvation in the city.
Starting in 1942, industrial-scale harvesting of alternative
products was organized - seal fat and meat, seabird meat, seaweed,
forest and marsh berries, etc., which reduced the severity of the
food problem in the city.
In 1956, the Kuznechevsky Bridge
was opened, connecting the center of Arkhangelsk with Solombala.
After 8 years, the Severodvinsky Bridge was opened, connecting the
center of Arkhangelsk with the left-bank part of the city.
In
1984, Arkhangelsk was awarded the Order of Lenin.
In the 1990s, the city experienced a severe economic crisis. The
population of the city decreased by 70 thousand people. In the 2000s,
the first pedestrian street appeared in Arkhangelsk -
Chumbarov-Luchinsky Avenue. In 2004, the Arkhangelsk tram ceased to
exist, and after another 4 years, the Arkhangelsk trolleybus. In March
2004, a drunk locksmith blew up a residential building on Soviet
Cosmonauts Avenue, 58 people died.
In 2009, the Drama Theater
named after M. M.V. Lomonosov, the repair of the old building and the
construction of a new building of the puppet theater were carried out.
In 2010-2012, the main educational institutions of higher education in
the Arkhangelsk region were merged, according to the order of the
Government of the Russian Federation of April 7, 2010, into the Northern
(Arctic) Federal University named after M.V. Lomonosov. In 2012, in
Arkhangelsk, sawmill No. 2, LDK named after Lenin (Sawmill No. 3) were
closed; in 2013 - Solombala Pulp and Paper Mill.
By plane
Arkhangelsk is served by two airports:
Talagi
Airport (IATA:ARH) (bus number 12 from the Sea and River Station).
☎ +7 (8182) 631 600. The international airport is located 11 km
northeast of the center of Arkhangelsk. It serves domestic flights
from Moscow, St. Petersburg, Murmansk, Sochi, Naryan-Mar and other
cities. International destinations are represented by charter
flights. Previously, Arkhangelsk was connected by air with Tromso
via Murmansk, but the resumption of this flight is currently not
planned. The main carrier is Nordavia Airlines, Aeroflot and Rossiya
also fly.
Vaskovo airport. The airport is located 13 km from the
center of Arkhangelsk. It serves mainly local transportation within
the Arkhangelsk region.
By train
Railway station
Arkhangelsk-Gorod (square of the 60th anniversary of October). It is
located in the eastern part of the city at the end of Voskresenskaya
street. The central part of Arkhangelsk can be quickly reached by
bus or taxi.
From Moscow from the Yaroslavsky railway station
you can get:
daily branded train No. 016 Moscow-Arkhangelsk, runs
daily, travel time 20 hours
running every other day by branded
train No. 118 "Pomorye" Moscow-Arkhangelsk, travel time 22 hours
running every other day by train No. 116 Moscow-Severodvinsk, which
follows through the Isakogorka station, from which a local electric
train and an intracity bus docked with the train go to the
Arkhangelsk-gorod station, travel time is 22 hours.
From St.
Petersburg from the Ladozhsky railway station, you can take the
train number 10 St. Petersburg-Arkhangelsk, the journey time is
about 23 hours. The train does not run every day, the schedule
depends on the season.
By car
From Moscow on the highway
M8 E115 "Kholmogory" through Yaroslavl, Vologda, Velsk, Bereznik.
The distance from the Moscow Ring Road is about 1250 km. From St.
Petersburg it is also better to go through Vologda. The distance is
about 1150 km. You can try to go through Karelia, this route looks
shorter on the map and it is quite picturesque, while more than half
of the route falls on the excellent P21 E105 Kola highway. However,
further it will be necessary to use local roads, which, judging by
the reviews, are very bad, and infrastructure (cafes, motels, gas
stations) can not be found everywhere there.
By bus
Bus
station, pr. Dzerzhinsky, 2. Mainly intra-regional bus routes are
served, located near the railway station.
On the ship
From
the river station to the emb. Northern Dvina during the navigation
season there is a regular service along the Dvina. From the pier in
Solombala to the emb. Georgy Sedov, during the navigation season,
regular communication is carried out with the islands and villages
located on the Dvina (Khabarka, Vyselki, Pustosh, Krasnoe, etc.).
Cruise on a paddle steamer. Paddle steamer “N.V. Gogol" was
built in 1911 and carries out regular cruises to Solvychegodsk and
Veliky Ustyug. Usually these flights are organized by the
Arkhangelsk company "Pomor-Tour".
Previously, trolleybus and tram routes existed in the city. The tram
tracks were dismantled and sold for scrap with the participation of the
then mayor of Arkhangelsk, Oleg Nilov. It was promised to replace the
tram routes with trolleybuses, but at the moment there is no tram or
trolleybus service in the city.
The main public transport in the
city are buses and fixed-route taxis. Bus service is mainly provided by
private companies, there are few public buses. Most of the private buses
are monstrous PAZ-32s with a capacity of fifty people. During rush hours
on popular routes, much more people are packed there.
There are
several taxi services. The car is served within a few minutes (during
peak hours there may be delays). Prices are fixed depending on the
route: within the central regions - 90 rubles. (2017), to outlying areas
- 20-30 rubles more expensive. At the same time, if you are traveling
from the center, for example, to the Meridian Hotel, which is formally
located in Solombala, but in fact you just need to move from the
Northern Dvina embankment / Gagarin Street across the Kunechikha River
bridge, you will be charged as a full trip to outskirts of the city.
Traditional souvenirs: roes and “birds of happiness”, various magnets
with beautiful views of the city, painted boxes, tuesas, Kargopol toys
and other traditional Arkhangelsk souvenirs can be bought at Rospechat
kiosks, large bookstores, as well as in the store of the Belomorskie
Uzory enterprise on Shubina street. A good choice (with pretty divine
prices) is available even in souvenir kiosks at the railway station.
During the festivities during the celebration of the City Day, the Day
of the Navy, souvenirs, paintings and handicrafts can be bought on
Chumbarova-Luchinsky Avenue. Souvenir shops are there, of course, too.
A kind of Arkhangelsk souvenir that you can bring to friends (or use
on your own) is a bottle of Pomor Balsam. In terms of its properties and
qualities, it is similar to the “Riga Balsam”, but is made using local
specialties. Sold in the same place as any other alcohol.
Fairs
are held: Margaritinskaya (in September), New Year's (December),
"Women's World" (March), Arkhangelsk (June, before the City Day), Honey
Exhibition and others, where the products of Arkhangelsk enterprises are
sold and the products of the regions of the region are widely
represented (in including souvenirs, clothes, food), as well as from
other cities.
Numerous shopping centers have been built and are
still being built in Arkhangelsk in recent years.
Cheap
Belomorskaya Hotel, Timme Street, 3. ☎ +7 (8182)
66-16-00.
Hotel "Meridian", Sovetskaya street, 5. ☎ +7 (8182)
29-74-74, +7 (8182) 22-33-17.
Average cost
Hotel "Dvina",
Troitsky prospect, 52. ☎ +7 (8182) 28-88-88.
Hotel "Capital of
Pomorie", Northern Dvina embankment, 88. ☎ +7 (8182) 42-35-75.
Single "Standard" from 3100 rubles, double "Standard" from 3700
rubles. Located in the very center of the city.
Expensive
"Business Center-Hotel 4 *", st. Popova, 8. ☎ +7 (8182) 21-01-30.
Pur-Navolok Hotel, Northern Dvina Embankment, 88 bldg. 1. ☎ +7
(8182) 21-72-00. Double room from 5600 rubles.
1 "M33" , Moskovsky pr., 33. ☎ +7 (818) 228-77-77. 11:00–05:00. The
largest entertainment complex in the city, the only one in its class. 2
dance floors, bowling, billiards, slot machines, rollerdrome, several
bars and a restaurant. Good air conditioners. There is a children's
room. The locals call the complex both “em-thirty-three” and “em-ze-ze”
according to their mood.
2 Club "Wheel" , st. Gaidar, 4 building.
1. ✉ ☎ +7 (818) 247-14-79, fax: +7 (818) 220-97-99. 17:00–24:00 (may be
open after midnight, depending on the event). The oldest music club in
Arkhangelsk. It specializes in rock concerts of various styles, which
take place several times a week. Local and out-of-town (sometimes
foreign) groups perform at a decent level. There are also theme parties.
Pre-booking tables is practiced. The kitchen is simple, but the food is
delicious, the prices are democratic, the waiters are friendly. Funny
interior: in accordance with the name, the walls are densely hung with
license plates from different cities and countries. An important detail:
since the place is small, the music is very loud here, so if you just
want to chat with someone over dinner, you are not here. But listening
to good and different rock, dancing and at the same time something to
eat and drink is worth it here.
Cheap
1 Pizzeria "Presto", st. Vyucheyskogo, 16. ☎ +7 (818)
240-04-00. 10:00–23:00.
2 "Big jackpot", Voskresenskaya st., 7
bldg. 2 (TC "Ocean", 1st floor). ☎ + +7 (818) 265-32-18, +7 (818)
221-18-87. 09:00–21:00. Self-service cafeteria in the heart of the
city. During lunch hours it is often crowded.
3 Dining room
"Kalitka", Troitsky pr., 10 (in the building of the shopping center
"Gallery", 0 floor). 10:00–21:00.
4 Canteen "Zero Mile", Troitsky
pr., 45 (in the building of the Main Post Office, entrance from
Troitsky avenue). ☎ +7 (818) 220-81-28. 10:00–20:00, 11:00–20:00
(Sat, Sun).
5 Tea house "Silk" , Chumbarova-Luchinsky Ave., 49
(corner of Karl Liebknecht Street). ☎ +7 (818) 247-49-56, +7 (818)
247-49-46, +7 (818) 269-61-00 12:00–00:00 (Mon-Thurs, Sun), 12:
00–03:00 (Fri, Sat). Cafe, sushi bar. Pizza, sushi, rolls, soups,
salads, hot dishes. There is a children's and vegetarian menu.
Average cost
"Blin House". Network institution, a complete
list is in the VKontakte group. The schedule is slightly different
for everyone, on average they work from 10 am to 10 pm. The
signature dish is pancakes with various fillings, but the choice of
other dishes is quite large. They cook delicious, there is a
business lunch, Wi-Fi.
6 Trinity Avenue, 81.
7 Troitsky
prospect, 94.
8 Troitsky prospect, 37.
9 Chumbarov-Luchinsky
Avenue, 7.
10 "Brothers Grill", Troitsky pr., 104 (TC
"Polyarny"). ☎ +7 (818) 265-38-35. 12:00–00:00 (Mon-Thurs, Sun),
12:00–03:00 (Fri, Sat). Cafe-bar specializing in meat dishes.
Expensive
11 Restaurant "Cabinet", Voskresenskaya st., 17. ☎
+7 (818) 265-50-51, +7 (911) 598-55-35. 12:00–01:00. Restaurant at
the brewery "BrauMeister".
12 "Terrace", Pomorskaya st., 54. ☎ +7
(818) 265-11-11, +7 (909) 556-11-11. 12:00–00:00 (Mon-Thurs, Sun),
12:00–02:00 (Fri, Sat). Fusion cafe with a cozy atmosphere.
Concerts, culinary (and not only) master classes and theme evenings
are often held.
The long-distance telephone code of Arkhangelsk is 8182. There are
several payphones in the city center, a telephone call point at the
intersection of Lomonosov Avenue and Voskresenskaya Street.
Vysotka has a free Wi-Fi access point, you can get through from about
Lenin Square, where there are comfortable benches, but only if your
laptop or PDA has a very good antenna. In Vysotka itself, on the ground
floor, there is a microscopic cafe, usually they go there for Wi-Fi.
There is also a free Wi-Fi access point in the Ocean shopping center, on
the 1st floor of which there is a cafe-dining room Big Kush
(Voskresenskaya street, 9), where you can sit with a laptop.
The
main post office is located at the intersection of Troitsky Prospekt and
Voskresenskaya Street, the entrance is a little further from the
intersection along Voskresenskaya towards the Northern Dvina embankment.
Cellular operators of the GSM standard: Megafon, MTS, Beeline,
Tele2.
In the central regions it is quite safe both during the day and at night, it is enough to observe only elementary security measures, only it is not safe to be in the evening (at night) in the area of the Central Market, around which there are still wooden houses in poor condition, in the yards of which dubious personalities often rub. Areas like Solombala, and especially Varavino-Faktoria and Maimaksa, have a reputation for being unsafe. Never and under no circumstances should one seek adventure on the left bank of the Northern Dvina; but there, in general, there is nothing particularly interesting and exciting, just something in between sleeping areas and a ghetto.
1 Malye Korely, Malye Karely village (Travel by buses 104u from
Terekhin Square or 104t from the railway station. Buses of both routes
can also be boarded at the Sea-River Station. The bus schedule is on the
museum website.). ☎ +7 (8182) 65-25-35. From June 1 to September 30:
Mon–Sun 10:00–19:00; from October 1 to May 31: 10:00–17:00, you can be
on the territory 1 hour after the specified opening hours, exhibitions
and interiors are open until 16:30. weekdays - 200 rubles, weekends -
250 rubles. (2019). The open-air museum of wooden architecture is
located 25 km from the city. It is divided into four sectors depending
on the place where the monuments of wooden architecture were brought
from. Each sector is designed in the form of a small settlement. In
total, the museum has more than a hundred different buildings -
churches, chapels, bell towers, peasant estates, mills and barns of the
16th - early 20th centuries. The territory is quite large, so if you
want to see everything, plan to spend at least a few hours in Malye
Korela. On weekends and holidays, folklore holidays, folk festivals,
horseback riding are organized.
2 Nicholas Church, Lyavlya village
(Novinki). The wooden church is the only thing left of the Assumption
Lyavlensky Monastery of the 14th century. The church was cut down in
1587 and is the oldest surviving hipped church of the octagon type "from
the seam" (from the ground). The nearby stone Assumption Church was
built in 1804 on the site of a wooden church of the same name. From the
churches standing on a hill, a good view of the Northern Dvina opens up.
3 Severodvinsk. a satellite town of Arkhangelsk on the White Sea coast,
the center of Russia's nuclear shipbuilding industry.
4 Kholmogory.
5 Novodvinsk fortress. on about. Linsky Priluk at the mouth of the Dvina
The Solovetsky Islands is an archipelago in the White Sea, which is
popular among tourists, despite its geographical remoteness.
Holy
Trinity Anthony-Siya Monastery (village Siya)
John the Theologian
Sura Monastery (village Sura)
Zaostrovye (Rikasovo) - a wooden and
stone churchyard of the 17th-18th centuries. About 2 km along the
Arkhangelsk-Severodvinsk highway, then follow the sign "Zaostrovie"
Flag of Arkhangelsk
At the moment, Arkhangelsk does not have an
official flag.
Coat of arms of Arkhangelsk
The coat of arms of
Arkhangelsk was approved in 1780. His description read:
In the golden
field of the shield, a flying Archangel is seen, who is armed with a
flaming sword and shield and strikes the defeated devil.
The
historical coat of arms of the city, which was not used in Soviet times,
was restored on October 10, 1989 by the decision of the 11th session of
the Arkhangelsk City Council.
Anthem of Arkhangelsk
The anthem
of Arkhangelsk - the song "We love you, Arkhangelsk" was adopted by the
deputies of the Arkhangelsk City Council on March 13, 2006. The anthem
was written by Moscow poet Simon Osiashvili and composer Alexander
Levshin.
The order of Lenin
May 10, 1984 Arkhangelsk was awarded the Order
of Lenin.
The decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of
the USSR noted that the city was awarded this award “for a great
contribution to the development of the navy, the development of the
northern regions of the country, the merits of the city’s workers in the
Great Patriotic War, success in economic and cultural construction and
in connection with the 400th anniversary of the grounds."
City of
Military Glory
On December 5, 2009, Russian President Dmitry Medvedev
signed a decree conferring the honorary title City of Military Glory on
the city of Arkhangelsk. The Mayor of Arkhangelsk Viktor Nikolayevich
Pavlenko, the chairman of the Club of Cavaliers of the Order of Glory of
the Arkhangelsk Region Serafim Stepanovich Nesmelov and a member of the
military-patriotic association of secondary school No. 55 Ilya
Dmitrievich Vashuta accepted the diploma.
On August 31, 2011, a
stele was erected on the embankment of the Northern Dvina in memory of
the award of the title.
On May 4, 1985, the Arkhangelsk
Commercial Sea Port was awarded the Order of the Patriotic War, I
degree, for "merits in providing for the Soviet Army and Navy during the
war years."
The city is located at the mouth of the Northern Dvina, 30-35 kilometers from its confluence with the White Sea. Arkhangelsk is located on a flat area. Height above sea level: 7 meters. The territory of the urban district of Arkhangelsk is 29,442 hectares (294.42 km²). City embankments stretched along the river branches for 35 km.
The climate of the city is temperate maritime with
long moderately cold winters and short cool summers. It is formed under
the influence of the northern seas and the transfer of air masses from
the Atlantic in conditions of a small amount of solar radiation. Average
January temperature: -12.8 °C, July: +16.3 °C. During the year, 607 mm
of precipitation falls. Average annual temperature: +1.3 °C.
Arkhangelsk is characterized by frequent weather changes, high air
humidity and a large number of days with precipitation. With the
invasion of cold air from Siberia, frosts down to -30 ° C are possible
in winter, at the same time there are sometimes thaws. In summer, when a
hot air mass invades from the side of the steppes of Kazakhstan, heat up
to + 30 ... 35 ° C is possible, at the same time, frosts are possible at
night in summer.
The maximum temperature in Arkhangelsk +34.4 °C
was recorded on July 13, 1972. The minimum temperature of -45.2 ° C was
recorded on January 8, 1885.
Arkhangelsk is located in the MSK time zone (Moscow time). The offset of the applicable time from UTC is +3:00. In accordance with the applied time and geographic longitude, the average solar noon in Arkhangelsk occurs at 12:18.