South Bohemia, a captivating region in the southern part of the
Czech Republic, is renowned for its enchanting landscapes and
rich historical heritage. It boasts numerous picturesque towns
and villages, including two standout UNESCO World Heritage
Sites: the fairy-tale-like historic center of Český Krumlov,
with its stunning 13th-century castle perched above a dramatic
meander of the Vltava River, and the beautifully preserved
traditional village of Holašovice, famous for its folk Baroque
farmhouses surrounding a charming village green.
The
countryside here is serene and idyllic, dotted with hundreds of
shimmering fish ponds that create a mosaic of water and
greenery, rolling hills in the southern areas (including parts
of the Šumava and Novohradské hory mountains), and vast peaceful
farmlands. The region also features an impressive array of
medieval castles, romantic chateaux (such as the grand Hluboká
Castle), and historic towns that evoke a sense of timeless
charm.
Although South Bohemia remains somewhat under the
radar for many international visitors—aside from the hugely
popular Český Krumlov and a handful of well-known castles—it is
a beloved destination among Czech locals. The region offers
something for every type of traveler, from history enthusiasts
and nature lovers to those seeking relaxation.
One of the
most enjoyable ways for locals (and increasingly for visitors)
to explore South Bohemia is by bicycle. The area features an
extensive network of well-marked cycling paths—among the longest
in the Czech Republic—with many routes that are relatively flat,
scenic, and supported by excellent infrastructure. Pedaling
through the gentle terrain, past ponds, forests, and quaint
villages, provides a fun, healthy, and deeply relaxing way to
immerse yourself in the region's beauty.
The distinctive
character of South Bohemia today owes much to the powerful
Rožmberk (Rosenberg) noble family, who dominated the area from
the 14th to the 17th centuries. They were instrumental in
developing the vast system of fish ponds (including the massive
Rožmberk Pond, once the largest in Central Europe), constructing
or expanding many castles and chateaux, digging canals for water
management, and founding or fortifying numerous towns and cities
that now serve as the region's primary tourist draws. Their
legacy in aquaculture and landscape engineering remains visible
everywhere.
The Vltava River, the Czech Republic's longest
and most iconic waterway (immortalized in Smetana's famous
symphonic poem), has its source in the Šumava Mountains of South
Bohemia. Two major dams on the river—Lipno (the largest
reservoir in the country) and Orlík—have significantly altered
the natural scenery, creating expansive lakes that blend
harmoniously with the surrounding forests and hills while
supporting hydroelectric power and recreation.
Another
profound influence on the region's history and appearance is the
former presence of a large ethnic German population.
German-speaking communities had lived in parts of what is now
South Bohemia since the 12th century, particularly in border
areas. Following World War II, nearly all were expelled to
Germany and Austria as part of the broader post-war population
transfers from the Sudetenland. Some abandoned villages were
repopulated by Czechs and Slovaks from inland areas, but many
others—especially in remote border zones like the Novohradské
hory (Gratzen Mountains)—were deliberately left to decay or
destroyed during the communist era due to their proximity to the
"Iron Curtain" and restricted military zones. Today, you can
still discover haunting ruins of these ghost villages in
isolated spots, slowly being rediscovered by curious Czech
hikers, historians, and even descendants of the expelled
families seeking to reconnect with their roots. This layered
history adds a poignant, reflective dimension to the otherwise
idyllic landscape.
České Budějovice — The vibrant regional
capital and largest city in South Bohemia, renowned worldwide as the
birthplace of the original Budweiser (Budvar) beer. Its historic center
features a beautiful main square with Baroque and Renaissance
architecture, plus lively breweries and a relaxed urban vibe.
Český Krumlov — A
magical medieval town often called one of the most beautiful in Europe,
featuring a UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic center and the
second-largest castle in the country. Perched above the Vltava River,
its winding streets, colorful buildings, and dramatic castle make it
feel like stepping into a storybook.
Třeboň —
A peaceful spa town surrounded by the scenic Třeboňsko lake district,
famous for its therapeutic wellness facilities, historic walls, and
extensive fishponds that create a unique watery landscape ideal for
cycling and relaxation.
Slavonice — A quaint small town near the Austrian
border, boasting one of the best-preserved Renaissance historic centers
in the country, with ornate sgraffito facades and a charming,
off-the-beaten-path atmosphere.
Písek — An
ancient town home to the oldest surviving stone bridge in the Czech
Republic (dating back to the 13th century), featuring a picturesque
riverside setting and well-preserved old town architecture.
Jindřichův Hradec — A historic gem with the
third-largest castle complex in Czechia, surrounded by picturesque
streets, ponds, and Renaissance buildings that showcase centuries of
Bohemian heritage.
Tábor — A
fascinating historic town founded as the center of the Hussite
revolutionary movement in the 15th century, with unique fortified
architecture, underground tunnels, and a strong sense of medieval
history.
Holašovice — A remarkably preserved rural
village showcasing the distinctive South Bohemian "Rural Baroque" style
of architecture, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its
harmonious farmsteads arranged around a central green.
Červená Lhota
— A picturesque village best known for its striking red Renaissance
chateau (Zámek Červená Lhota), dramatically situated on an island in the
middle of a scenic pond, complete with romantic bridges and lush
gardens.
Nové
Hrady
Šumava (Bohemian Forest) — A majestic mountain range along the
borders with Germany and Austria, including the expansive Šumava
National Park. It offers dense forests, pristine lakes, hiking trails,
wildlife, and outdoor adventures in one of Central Europe's largest
protected wilderness areas.
Třeboňsko — A culturally rich landscape
of interconnected lakes, wetlands, peat bogs, and mires, perfect for
birdwatching, cycling, and appreciating traditional fish farming and
nature conservation.
Blanský les — A protected landscape area near
Český Krumlov, featuring rolling hills, forests, and Mount Kleť, topped
by an astronomical observatory with panoramic views.
Novohradské hory
— Tranquil, sparsely populated hills right on the Austrian border,
offering peaceful hiking, pristine nature, and a sense of untouched
wilderness.
State Chateau of Hluboká (Státní zámek Hluboká, Bezručova
142, Hluboká nad Vltavou) — One of the most stunning castles in the
Czech Republic and a national cultural monument. This neo-Gothic
Romantic masterpiece, inspired by Windsor Castle, features lavish
interiors, extensive English-style gardens, and an impressive art
collection.
Zlatá Koruna
Monastery (Klášter Zlatá Koruna, Zlatá Koruna 1) — A national cultural
monument and one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in
Central Europe. Founded in the 13th century, this Cistercian monastery
near Český Krumlov boasts well-preserved cloisters, churches, and
historical significance in a serene riverside setting.
Orlík Castle (Zámek
Orlík) — A stunning 13th-century Gothic château dramatically perched on
a rocky promontory high above the Vltava River, now overlooking the vast
Orlík Dam reservoir. Once a royal customhouse and later a residence of
the powerful Schwarzenberg family, it features elegant interiors,
beautiful gardens, and sweeping views of the surrounding canyon-like
landscape.
Rožmberk nad
Vltavou (Hrad Rožmberk nad Vltavou) — One of the oldest castles in
Bohemia, dating back to the mid-13th century and dramatically situated
on a promontory almost encircled by the winding Vltava River. Built by
the influential Rožmberk family (predecessors to other noble lines), it
offers a mix of Gothic and Renaissance elements, haunting legends,
richly furnished rooms, and a breathtaking riverside setting that feels
like a scene from a fairy tale.
Strakonice
Castle (Hrad Strakonice) — A well-preserved Gothic moated castle from
the early 13th century, originally constructed by the Bavor family and
later tied to the Knights Hospitaller. Located at the confluence of the
Otava and Volyňka rivers in the town of Strakonice, it now houses a
regional museum showcasing unique collections on local traditions,
motorcycles, bagpipes, firearms, and the famous Strakonice fez
production.
Šumava
National Park (Národní park Šumava) — A vast and enchanting protected
area of ancient forests, pristine peat bogs, crystal-clear glacial lakes
(like Černé jezero), and rolling mountains along the
Czech-German-Austrian border. Ideal for hiking, cycling, wildlife
spotting, and exploring untouched nature trails, including primeval
forests like Boubínský prales and scenic spots such as Modrava, Kvilda,
and the Vltava headwaters.
Vyšší Brod
Monastery (Klášter Vyšší Brod) — A historic Cistercian abbey founded in
1259, beautifully positioned on the right bank of the Vltava River near
the Austrian border. This active monastery features impressive Gothic
architecture (including the church and cloisters), valuable medieval art
and manuscripts, peaceful grounds, and a sense of timeless spirituality
— it's one of the most significant ecclesiastical sites in South
Bohemia.
Zvíkov Castle
(Hrad Zvíkov) — Often called the "king of Czech castles," this majestic
13th-century royal fortress stands on a dramatic promontory at the
confluence of the Vltava and Otava rivers. Known for its strategic
Gothic architecture, legendary hauntings (including tales of a demonic
imp), panoramic river views, and well-preserved interiors, it offers a
perfect blend of history, mystery, and natural beauty.
Lipno Dam – A Versatile Artificial Reservoir Packed with Outdoor
Adventures
Lipno Dam, one of the largest artificial reservoirs in the
Czech Republic, sits in the scenic Šumava region of South Bohemia.
Created primarily for hydroelectric power and flood control, it has
evolved into a premier destination for water-based sports and
relaxation. Visitors can enjoy sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing,
stand-up paddleboarding, swimming, fishing, and even yachting on its
vast waters, surrounded by rolling hills and dense forests.
Canoeing Down the Vltava River – A Classic Multi-Day Adventure
The
stretch of the Vltava River below Lipno Dam ranks among the most beloved
canoeing and kayaking routes in Central Europe. The classic itinerary
starts in Vyšší Brod (right below the dam) and winds downstream to
Boršov nad Vltavou, near České Budějovice. This scenic journey typically
spans 2–5 days, depending on your pace, stops for sightseeing, and how
leisurely (or beer-filled) your trip becomes. Along the way, you'll
paddle past the enchanting medieval towns of Český Krumlov — with its
stunning castle perched above the river — and Rožmberk nad Vltavou,
offering breathtaking views of historic architecture, lush forests, and
gentle rapids.
The route is well-supported with numerous campsites
tailored to paddlers, plus plenty of rental companies providing canoes,
kayaks, rafts, and all necessary gear. The only real downside? Peak
season crowds — especially in July and August — when the river can feel
like a bustling waterway highway with hundreds of boats.
Cycling
in South Bohemia – Flat Trails and Picturesque Ponds
South Bohemia is
a cyclist's paradise, boasting extensive networks of dedicated bike
paths, quiet country roads, and forested trails. The area around Třeboň
stands out as a top hub, thanks to its flat terrain dotted with hundreds
of shimmering fish ponds, lush meadows, and charming villages — perfect
for relaxed, scenic rides of any length.
Cross-Country Skiing in
Šumava – Winter Nordic Fun
While Šumava's rolling hills aren't steep
enough for serious alpine/downhill skiing, the region reliably receives
ample snowfall each winter, transforming into excellent territory for
cross-country skiing. Well-groomed trails wind through peaceful forests
and open plateaus, appealing to both beginners and experienced skiers
seeking serene winter outings.
South Bohemia's Iconic Fish Ponds –
More Than Just Fishing
Fish ponds are a hallmark of the Czech
landscape, especially in South Bohemia, where they've been cultivated
for centuries. Ranging from tiny forest pools to massive, boat-navigable
reservoirs, these man-made waters support traditional aquaculture while
doubling as recreational spots. The largest and most famous is Rožmberk
Pond near Třeboň — the biggest fishpond in Central Europe — offering
stunning views and opportunities for boating, swimming, and windsurfing.
Carp (especially common carp) remains the star of the show here, raised
for both commercial fishing and the cherished Czech Christmas tradition.
In late autumn, many ponds undergo "harvesting": the water is drained,
fish are collected into tanks, and live carp are sold at bustling
Christmas markets across towns. This fresh catch often becomes the
centerpiece of Christmas Eve dinner, typically fried or baked and served
with potato salad.
These ponds are everywhere — pop up unexpectedly
while hiking, biking, or driving through the forests — so it's smart to
pack swimwear. The water warms nicely in summer for refreshing dips,
though always check clarity first: occasional fish feeding can cloud it
and make swimming less appealing.
By train
The primary railway hub for the region is České
Budějovice, the largest city and capital of South Bohemia. It sits on
the key international line connecting Prague (about 2 hours by fast
train) and Linz, Austria (around 2 hours), so you'll find frequent,
reliable services from both directions, including direct EuroCity
trains. Regional and secondary lines branch out to connect with
neighboring areas like Tábor, Jindřichův Hradec, and beyond. For a
unique experience, you can ride a historic narrow-gauge railway (760 mm
gauge) from Jindřichův Hradec to Kamenice nad Lipou (and onward to
Obrataň in the Vysočina region), passing through scenic forests and the
picturesque "Czech Canada" area—perfect for a nostalgic, slower-paced
journey on certain days or seasonal services.
All train schedules,
connections, and tickets are easily searchable on IDOS.cz (the
comprehensive Czech public transport portal at idos.cz), which covers
trains, buses, and more. The site offers an English version and is
user-friendly for planning routes.
By bus
Buses provide
extensive coverage to towns and smaller destinations across South
Bohemia. Most services depart from Prague (e.g., from stations like Na
Knížecí or Florenc), with journeys to České Budějovice taking about
2.5–3 hours. Additional routes run from Brno and other major Czech
cities. Direct buses are also available to popular spots like Český
Krumlov. Check timetables and buy tickets via IDOS.cz, which integrates
bus operators like RegioJet or FlixBus for convenient planning.
By car
Driving offers flexibility to explore rural areas and hidden
gems. The main routes from Prague are the I/3 and I/4 roads (two-lane
highways), which can get congested, especially during peak times. The D3
motorway (part of the E55 corridor toward Linz, Austria) is under
ongoing construction; as of 2026, significant sections in South Bohemia
are open or nearing completion (e.g., extensions toward the Austrian
border expected by 2026), but the full Prague-to-Austria link won't be
entirely finished yet—some stretches remain two-lane or under build.
Always check current road conditions via apps like Google Maps or the
ŘSD website. Expect good overall road quality, though narrower sections
are common.
By bicycle
Czechia is compact and
cyclist-friendly, so long-distance touring is feasible if you're fit and
have time. Well-marked cycling routes connect Prague, Vienna (Austria),
and various points in South Bohemia, often following scenic paths along
rivers, ponds, and forests. Many visitors combine train travel with
biking for parts of the journey.
By train
The region boasts a dense rail network—typical of
Czechia—with trains generally comfortable, punctual, and a top choice
for public transport. However, some rural or secondary lines run
infrequently (e.g., limited daily services). While České Dráhy (Czech
Railways) remains the main operator, private companies now run some
routes (especially from České Budějovice toward Český Krumlov and
Šumava), so check the operator when buying tickets—sometimes you need
the correct counter or app. Use IDOS.cz for real-time schedules and
integrated tickets.
By bus
The bus system is extensive and
reaches many small towns and villages that trains miss. Service can feel
somewhat unpredictable or irregular, with far more departures on
weekdays than weekends (Saturdays and Sundays often have very limited or
no buses on certain routes). It's reliable enough for planning via
IDOS.cz, but always double-check for your specific day.
By car
Roads are generally well-maintained and offer beautiful drives through
rolling countryside, but many are narrow and winding, especially in
forested or hilly areas. Night driving requires caution due to abundant
wildlife—deer, boars, and smaller animals frequently cross roads, and
their eyes reflect headlights dramatically. A minor collision with a
rabbit might be fine, but hitting larger game like deer or wild boar can
cause serious vehicle damage (and potential injury). Use headlights,
drive attentively, and consider comprehensive insurance.
By
bicycle
Cycling is hugely popular among Czech visitors and arguably
the best way to experience the region's charm. The landscape varies:
flat and easy around the central pond-dotted area near Třeboň; gently
hilly in the north near Jindřichův Hradec; and more challenging
(mountainous) in the south with Šumava National Park and Novohradské
Hory. Excellent infrastructure includes hundreds of marked trails,
bike-friendly accommodations, repair shops, rentals, and
cyclist-oriented hotels or pensions. Czech Railways often rents bikes at
stations (check their site—use Google Translate if needed, as it's
mainly in Czech). For navigation, download offline maps on apps like
OsmAnd or Mapy.cz (outdoor mode)—they're usually sufficient without
paper maps.
On foot (hiking)
South Bohemia offers superb
hiking opportunities, especially in the mountainous southern parts
The local cuisine in South Bohemia closely resembles traditional
Czech food overall, featuring hearty, comforting dishes built around
potatoes, cabbage, meats, and fresh ingredients. One of the region's
most beloved specialties is Kaplická cmunda (often simply called
"cmunda"), a delicious stuffed potato pancake originating from the
Kaplice area. It's essentially a large, crispy bramborák (potato
pancake) made from grated potatoes, flour, eggs, and seasonings, folded
or layered and generously filled with tangy sauerkraut (fermented sour
cabbage) and slices of flavorful smoked ham or pork (such as uzená
krkovice). The combination of crunchy exterior, soft potato interior,
sour cabbage tang, and smoky meat makes it incredibly satisfying and a
must-try local treat.
Another highlight is the abundance of
freshwater fish, thanks to South Bohemia's hundreds of historic fish
ponds that have been part of the landscape for centuries. Common
varieties include carp (a traditional favorite, especially around
Christmas), pike, and perch. These are prepared in various ways: simply
fried for a light, crispy texture, breaded and deep-fried for extra
crunch, or baked with herbs and spices for a more flavorful,
oven-roasted version. Fish dishes here are fresh, seasonal, and often
served with local sides like boiled potatoes or tartar sauce.
South Bohemia is firmly in the heart of Czech beer country—the hilly
terrain and cooler climate make it ideal for growing hops and barley but
unsuitable for vineyards (so wine production is minimal compared to
other regions). The undisputed star is Budweiser Budvar (Budějovický
Budvar), brewed exclusively in České Budějovice using pure artesian
water and traditional methods. This world-famous pilsner, a
government-owned national brewery, is exported globally and known for
its crisp, malty flavor and high quality—often considered the "original"
Budweiser.
Other excellent local brands worth seeking out include:
Regent (Bohemia Regent) from Třeboň, famous for its authentic South
Bohemian lagers with rich, balanced taste.
Eggenberg from the
picturesque town of Český Krumlov, often paired with its attached
restaurant.
Platan from Protivín.
Dudák from Strakonice.
Samson
from České Budějovice.
The region also boasts a thriving scene of
microbreweries and craft breweries offering innovative, high-quality
beers. Many larger breweries welcome visitors for guided tours where you
can watch the brewing process firsthand—from mashing and fermentation to
bottling—and then enjoy fresh samples. Breweries frequently operate
their own cozy restaurants or pubs right next door, serving traditional
Czech meals to pair with the beer. A standout example is the Eggenberg
brewery in tourist-favorite Český Krumlov, where the on-site restaurant
earns rave reviews for its excellent food and atmosphere.
South Bohemia ranks among the safest regions in the Czech Republic and Europe overall, with very low rates of violent crime and a relaxed, welcoming vibe. Petty theft like pickpocketing is rare outside major tourist crowds (and far less common here than in Prague). The primary risks are practical rather than criminal: watch out for wild animals (especially deer or other wildlife) crossing rural roads, particularly at dawn, dusk, or night—driving cautiously is essential on winding country roads. Another common hazard is alcohol consumption combined with water activities—many visitors enjoy rafting, canoeing, or sailing down scenic rivers like the Vltava, but stay sober while on the water to avoid accidents, as currents can be unpredictable and help isn't always immediate in remote areas. Overall, exercise normal precautions, and you'll have a trouble-free visit.
Prehistory and Early Slavic Settlement
The region’s human presence
dates back millennia. A major discovery in July 2025 uncovered a vast,
well-preserved Celtic settlement (La Tène period, ~2nd–1st century BCE)
near Hradec Králové covering over 65 acres. Associated with the Boii
tribe (source of the name “Bohemia”), it served as an economic and
administrative hub with evidence of advanced craftsmanship—gold/silver
coins, amber trade along the Amber Road, pottery kilns, glass workshops,
and coin molds—highlighting early long-distance commerce.
Germanic
tribes (Marcomanni and Quadi) followed in the 1st century CE. Slavic
groups arrived during the Migration Period (5th–6th centuries). In East
Bohemia, the Zličané (Zlicane) formed one of the prominent early Slavic
principalities or tribes (alongside others like the Čechy). Older
historiography saw them as distinct contributors to tribal unification;
newer views treat them as part of a broader Czech tribal continuum.
Legends in 14th-century chronicles (e.g., Dalimil) mention a Zličan
prince Radslav defeated by Saint Wenceslas (Václav) in the 10th century,
linking them to the Kouřim area and the emerging Přemyslid state. They
integrated into the Duchy of Bohemia after brief subordination to Great
Moravia (late 9th century).
Medieval Period: Rise of Towns and
Royal Ties (10th–15th Centuries)
Under the Přemyslid dynasty, East
Bohemia developed as a political and economic periphery of the Kingdom
of Bohemia (elevated 1198). Key settlements emerged at river
confluences.
Hradec Králové (German: Königgrätz) appears in
chronicles around 1086–1091 (castle) and as a city by 1225. In 1306 it
became a royal dowry town (věnné město) controlled by Bohemian queens,
hosting residences of Elizabeth Richeza of Poland (1308–1318) and
Elizabeth of Pomerania (1378–1393). This status made it a 14th-century
military, political, and cultural center with high education levels.
Fires (1290, 1339, 1407) prompted Gothic reconstructions, including the
Church of the Holy Spirit.
Pardubice first appears in 1295 (church
protection under Pope Boniface VIII). It gained city rights by 1340
under the Lords of Pardubice. In 1491, the powerful noble Vilém II of
Pernštejn purchased it, transforming it into his estate center. The
Pernštejn family rebuilt the medieval castle into a Renaissance palace
with massive fortifications and created the ornate historic
square—earning the proverb “it glitters like Pardubice.” They also
constructed grand regional castles, including Kunětická hora (near
Pardubice) and Litice nad Orlicí. The Renaissance center remains a
protected conservation area since 1964.
The Hussite Wars (1419–1434)
elevated the region’s role. Hradec Králové was conquered by Hussites in
1420 and became a military hub; in 1423, they destroyed the queens’
castle. The area served as a notable center of the revolution, with
military leader Jan Žižka active here in 1423–1424. Under Hussite king
George of Poděbrady (r. 1458–1471), prosperity returned. In 1547,
Hradec’s opposition to Habsburg Emperor Ferdinand I led to confiscated
privileges and economic decline until late in the century, when
Renaissance houses (e.g., White Tower, 1574–1580) appeared.
Habsburg Era and Early Modern Challenges (16th–18th Centuries)
After
1526, Bohemia fell under Habsburg rule. The Thirty Years’ War
(1618–1648) devastated the area: Hradec Králové was repeatedly conquered
(notably by Swedes in 1639), leaving it depopulated and ruined, while
Pardubice survived a siege. Baroque rebuilding followed in both cities
(e.g., Jesuit church and college in Hradec).
Emperor Joseph II’s
reforms included converting Hradec Králové into a massive modern
fortress (1765–1789, 320 hectares). This project demolished suburbs,
reshaped riverbeds and hills, and added complete defensive
infrastructure—yet it saw no combat and later symbolized outdated
militarization.
19th Century: Industrialization and the Decisive
Battle
Railways spurred growth. The Prague–Olomouc line opened
through Pardubice in 1845, turning it into a junction and boosting food,
engineering, and chemical industries (foundations for later explosives
production). The world-famous Velká pardubická steeplechase horse race
began in 1874.
Hradec Králové saw industrialization within its
fortifications. The decisive Battle of Königgrätz (Sadowa, 3 July 1866)
occurred nearby during the Austro-Prussian War. Prussian victory over
Austria reshaped Central Europe, accelerated Habsburg decline, and ended
the fortress era. The Königgrätzer Marsch commemorates it. The fortress
was formally abolished in 1884 and demolished in stages (1893–1930). An
international urban planning competition (1884, one of Europe’s first)
launched modern redevelopment.
20th Century to Present:
Modernization, Wars, and Independence
Early 20th-century architecture
transformed Hradec Králové. Jan Kotěra (pre-WWI) and Josef Gočár
(1920s–1930s regulatory plan) created functionalist and progressive
buildings, earning the nickname “Salon of the Republic.” Pardubice
gained aviation fame: Jan Kašpar’s first successful Czech flight (1910)
and pioneering Pardubice–Prague long-haul (1911).
Both cities joined
the new Czechoslovakia in 1918. During the German Protectorate of
Bohemia and Moravia (1939–1945), Pardubice hosted resistance (paratroop
group Silver A, linked to the 1942 Heydrich assassination); Nazis
executed 194 patriots at Zámeček. Allied bombings targeted its refinery.
Post-1945, the area became part of the Communist Eastern Bohemian Region
(1960 onward), with continued industrialization.
The 1989 Velvet
Revolution brought democracy. The 1993 split created the independent
Czech Republic; current regions were restored in 2000. Today, East
Bohemia blends heritage tourism (UNESCO-listed Litomyšl chateau in the
Pardubice Region, castles, gingerbread traditions in Pardubice) with
modern industry, horse racing, speedway events, and cycling networks.
East Bohemia (Východní Čechy) forms the north-eastern historical
portion of Bohemia in the Czech Republic. It mainly corresponds to the
Hradec Králové Region (Královéhradecký kraj, 4,759 km²) and Pardubice
Region (Pardubický kraj, 4,519 km²), totaling roughly 9,278 km² — about
12% of the country. This transitional zone stretches from Poland’s
border (a 208 km frontier in the Hradec Králové part alone) south and
west to Central Bohemia and parts of Moravia.
The terrain shifts
dramatically from high mountains and sandstone “rock cities” in the
north and northeast to flat, fertile river lowlands in the center and
south, all part of the ancient Bohemian Massif.
Topography and
Major Landforms
In the north, the Krkonoše (Giant Mountains, part of
the Sudetes range) dominate. This is the highest range in the Czech
Republic, with two-thirds of Krkonoše National Park (363.52 km² total)
lying in Hradec Králové Region. Elevations range from 413 m at the base
to Sněžka (1,603 m), the country’s highest peak — often called the
“Czech Matterhorn.” The park features glacial cirques, U-shaped valleys,
moraines, stone seas (boulder fields), tors, and even small karst
features in the east. Flat ridges, steep slopes, alpine meadows, and
mysterious peat moorlands create a mosaic of post-glacial landscapes.
The Orlické hory (Eagle Mountains) and parts of the Hrubý Jeseník extend
into the northeast, while the Broumovský výběžek (Broumov Promontory)
contains dramatic sandstone formations.
The iconic Adršpach-Teplice
Rocks (Adršpašsko-teplické skály) form one of Central Europe’s largest
“rock cities” — clusters of towering sandstone pillars, canyons, arches,
and labyrinthine passages up to 100+ m high. These eroded Cretaceous
sandstone blocks (part of a national nature reserve since 1933 and
within the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area) create a surreal
landscape of mushroom-shaped rocks, narrow gorges, and natural bridges.
Further south and southeast in Pardubice Region, the landscape becomes
hilly: the Železné hory (Iron Mountains) and Upper Svratka Highlands
rise to moderate elevations, with the region’s highest point at Králický
Sněžník (1,424 m). This peak also marks the rare European Watershed
tripoint (Elbe/North Sea, Danube/Black Sea, and Oder/Baltic Sea basins).
The central and western areas open into the broad, fertile Polabí (Elbe
Lowland) — flat river plains ideal for agriculture, with elevations
dropping to around 201–202 m along the Elbe and Cidlina rivers (the
region’s lowest points).
Geology
The foundation is the stable
Bohemian Massif (igneous and metamorphic rocks). In north-eastern
Bohemia, Cretaceous sedimentary sandstones predominate, creating the
famous rock cities and plateaus. The Krkonoše feature a complex
crystalline core (granitoids of the Krkonoše-Jizera pluton, schists,
gneisses, and phyllites) shaped by Variscan orogeny and later
glaciation. The Iron Mountains include older Paleozoic rocks and
protected geopark status.
Hydrology
Almost the entire region
drains into the Elbe (Labe) River basin (North Sea). The Elbe itself
rises in the Krkonoše (near the Polish border) and flows southwest
through the Polabí lowlands, joined by major tributaries such as the
Orlice (Wild and Quiet branches), Metuje, Chrudimka, Loučná, and
Třebovka. In Pardubice Region, a small southeastern portion belongs to
the Danube basin (Morava and Svitava rivers), and a tiny northern fringe
touches the Oder. Key artificial water bodies include the Seč Reservoir
(220 ha) and Pastviny Reservoir (92 ha). Mountain hydrology features
dramatic waterfalls (Pančava, Elbe, Mumlava) and extensive peat bogs
(Ramsar wetlands).
Climate
East Bohemia has a temperate
continental climate (Köppen Dfb) with oceanic influences, showing strong
elevation gradients. Lowland areas (Polabí) average around 8 °C annually
with hot summers and cold winters; higher northeastern hills and
mountains drop to ~4 °C (Sněžka averages just 0.2 °C). Annual
precipitation ranges from 700–800 mm in the lowlands to 800–1,000 mm (or
more) in uplands and mountains, with heavy snow cover lasting up to 180
days on peaks. Temperature inversions are common in winter.
Vegetation, Soils, and Ecosystems
Forests cover ~30% of the region
(higher in mountains), mostly coniferous spruce monocultures with
patches of deciduous beech, oak, and hornbeam in lowlands. Podzols and
cambisols dominate soils. Krkonoše National Park displays clear
vegetation zones:
Submontane (400–800 m): mixed forests (now
often spruce plantations)
Montane (800–1,200 m): spruce with meadows
Subalpine (1,200–1,450 m): dwarf pine, heaths, and bogs
Alpine (above
1,450 m): tundra-like rocky slopes with glacial relicts (e.g.,
cloudberry, snow saxifrage, endemic mayflies and moths)
Peat bogs
and glacial relict species make the park a biodiversity hotspot.
Krakonoš (Rübezahl): Lord of the Giant Mountains
The most iconic
legend belongs to Krakonoš, the moody mountain spirit (or giant) who
rules the Krkonoše National Park on the Czech-Polish border. First
depicted in 1561 on a Silesian map as a goat-legged, antlered creature
with a forked tail and staff, he evolved from a feared demon of sudden
storms and fog into a protector of the wronged, punisher of poachers and
greedy treasure-hunters, and helper of the poor.
He shape-shifts into
forms like a poor student, golden-haired boy, donkey, cow, hare, or
terrifying wizard. His German name Rübezahl (“beet-counter” or
“turnip-counter”) comes from one tale: he kidnaps a princess to his
underground palace, gives her a magic wand and beet field to transform
into loved ones, but she tricks him into endlessly counting beets while
she escapes on a horse made from a beet. Other stories show his whimsy
and temper—he leads hikers astray (laughing scornfully from swamps or
cliffs), paralyzes horses, rolls boulders, or unleashes hornets if
cursed. Yet he befriends honest shepherds (until their sheep graze his
forbidden gardens, causing the flock’s doom) and reveals herbal secrets
to doctors—until one doubts him and is beaten half to death by a
fiery-eyed giant.
Krakonoš explains the mountains’ erratic weather: a
sunny day turning to hail in minutes. Two lakes below Sněžka (the
highest peak) are said to birth babies—storks deliver boys, crows girls.
Locals once avoided saying his name aloud. Today, statues, festivals
(e.g., his “arrival” in Trutnov), beer brands, and trails keep him
alive.
Pardubice Region: Monasteries, Treasures, and Curses
Around Pardubice, legends cluster around noble families like the
Pernštejns and sites like Kunětická hora and Opatovice Monastery.
Opatovice Monastery origin and treasure: In the 12th century, King
Vratislav II dreamed on the riverbank that he must found an abbey
pleasing to God—leading to the wealthy Benedictine monastery. Monks hid
their riches in wine barrels during Hussite threats and tricked the lord
of Kunětická hora into “storing” them. He tasted the “wine,” kept the
gold, and sent back actual wine barrels. Hussite captain Diviš Bořek z
Miletínka later sacked the monastery; chronicler Václav Hájek claimed it
was Bohemia’s richest, with treasure still rumored hidden on Kunětická
hora.
Vojtěch z Pernštejn’s tomb curse (Church of St. Bartholomew,
Pardubice): Vojtěch (1490–1534), a harsh judge who condemned the “Czech
Báthory” (Kateřina z Komárova) for torture, died mysteriously. His tomb
carries a curse: intruders hear a voice declaring, “We’ll meet in a year
and a day!” A bold sexton tested it and died exactly one year later. A
related tale says young Vojtěch was cured of illness by miraculous
cherries from under Kunětická hora; a handsome youth apparition
instructed children to deliver them to the castle.
Fexts: The
Bulletproof Undead of East Bohemia
Unique to the region (especially
villages like Dobré, Chotěborky, Honbice, Skuteč, and Vamberk during the
Thirty Years’ War), fexts (from German kugelfest—“bulletproof”) are
invulnerable people born in an intact amniotic sac (caul). The dried
caul worn under the left arm grants protection from ordinary bullets;
only a glass bullet or tree-peg kills them. After death, their bodies do
not decay but harden in a rigid shell. Mummified fexts appear in
Vamberk’s church crypt (17th–18th centuries), Dašice ossuary, a giant
hand preserved in Kostelec near Heřmanův Městec, and a child’s hand in
Vejvanovice. Tales often involve soldiers or locals surviving impossible
wounds.
Litice Castle Ruins: Petrified Sorcerers
Above the
Wild Orlice River near Rychnov nad Kněžnou stand the ruins of Litice
Castle. At the entrance are three carved stones depicting a black
magician (černokněžník), a ghost-conjurer (zaklínač duchů), and a
Templar knight—real men turned to stone as divine punishment for their
sins. Templars historically occupied the castle, adding credence to the
tale.
Ústí nad Orlicí: Saviors, Beasts, and Restless Spirits
In this Orlice River town:
Ústecká Madonna: A 15th-century painting
of the Virgin and Child in the Church of the Assumption miraculously
saved the town from invading armies. Replicas hung in homes for
centuries as protective talismans.
Violinist of Vlčí údolí (Wolf
Valley): A musician returning from a dance faced bloodthirsty beasts
(supernatural, vanishing at dawn). He repelled them with violin music;
the valley and a spring (Vlčí studánka) commemorate the event.
Watermen (vodníci): Malevolent river spirits in the Třebovka and Tichá
Orlice claimed victims until river regulation “tamed” them. Tragedies
were blamed on their malice.
Ghosts of evil administrators: Two
tyrannical stewards from nearby Lanškroun haunt the area—one (Dešvenda)
rolls his severed head while terrifying people; the other (Rieder) jumps
through trees, shouting parishioners’ weekly sins en route to church.
They find no rest after death.
Rock Cities and Other Wonders
The sandstone labyrinths of Adršpach-Teplice Rocks (part of Český ráj
UNESCO area) and Broumov walls inspire “romance in the rocks” tales of
hidden lovers, giants, and mummified inhabitants (e.g., lace-maker
Magdalena Grambová in Broumov Monastery cellars, sometimes linked to
fext lore).